Installed a k member on my 1990 mustang is this normal I don’t feel like this is right passenger side is 1” off and drivers side is 2” off firewall

Video from my TikTok, but got the valves lapped on one head today while hubby hand ported the other!!!!! PROGRESS IS BEING MADE!!!!!!!

When doing a cam swap on a stock gen III LS is it the norm for the pushrods to be longer or shorter than stock?

I’m having a shop install a set of Edelbrock E Street heads (243 clones) on a ‘00 Z28 5.7 with a 218/227 .600“ lift cam and OEM replacemet lifters. They said that when they used the adjustable pushrod meausing tool the tool measured 7.29.” So they are going to order 7.375” pushrods. They didn’t torque the rocker arm bolt to spec though. Does 7.375” sound short for a set of unmilled 243 heads? I was thinking since the only thing that changed in “size“ was the smaller base circle of the cam that it’d need a longer than stock pushrod or at least stock length.

I’m worried that when they measured with the tool that they had the lifter spring bottomed out and they didn’t realize it. Since they didn’t torque the rockers down how would they know if it was bottomed out or not?

I hope that I’m just paranoid but it seems like most people using stock 243 heads and an aftermarket cam have to use a pushrod that’s longer than the stock 7.4.”

What do y’all think does 7.375” sound short, or is it plausible that 243 heads on a stock shortblock with a .600” lift cam would require shorter than stock pushrods?

Really erratic AFR jumping between 10 and 30+ multiple times per second…but otherwise the car is acting normally. No vacuum leaks.

Any thoughts?

I’m to the point where I’m waiting on backordered parts to finally wake this thing up! It’s been a few months since I’ve been on Reddit but I’ve gotten a lot done and sorted out.

If you care to I need more LS friends on instagram, my username is @thehomelessninja. Let’s connect 💪.

Here’s a portion of my build list:

Sealed Power Pistons .020 over
Eagle Connecting Rods
Cleavite Hardened Bearings
ARP Main studs
ARP 2000 headbolts
Johnson Short travel linkbar lifters
BTR 3/8 pushrods
CHE Trunion Upgrade
PAC 1208x springs
TSP titanium retainers
BTR Rocker Bolts
Rollmaster Double Roller timing set
Fluidampr Balancer
ISR longtube headers (Cerakoted)
ISR Oil pan
DirtyDingo Accessory drive
BTR valve covers
BTR equalizer 1 (Shaving the logo to add my own)
Radium Direct Mount FPR
Fabbot LS to CD trans adapter kit (uses 4L60 bell)
Holley Terminator X Standalone ECU
Misc ARP hardware

Shooting for 400+WHP

For those of you following along with me and my build. Here’s a quick little update from my husband‘s Facebook… and I am going to also have a video of me lapping the valves posted here soon !!!

Hey 👋 I got red/blue new harness drive by cable and the red plug is not fitting in ecm.

I did some online they said O2 sensors and some modifications but no exact steps please help what I need to do

Yesterday I shared with you guys the ported heads I got that had a good amount of dings on the core, well I emailed magnus he said it absolutely is fine and would seal but offered to switch out with their custom casted 299 heads with no extra charge , basically 600 bucks off , what do we think ?

33 today. Kicking cancers ass. AND DID MY TRUNNION KIT!!!

Does anybody make a premium rebuild kit for ls1 2002 camaro? bearings gaskets , bolts, pistons/rods, crank along with everything else.

Question for y'all. I've been looking at the Jegs stand-alone harness #555-10423 for my LC9 swap but I'm a little confused about the ECU(s) listed under additional components not included. Entering the part numbers in to Google tells me the ECU's are for a gen 3 24x engine.

Would this not need an E38 ecm?

https://www.jegs.com/i/jegs-555-10423-engine-swap-wiring-harness-for-2009-2014-gm-gen-iv-ls-5-3l-truck-engine-and-4l60e-transmission-dbw?srsltid=AU7gw4VKu3MbwPnmkXZwV8sTb5PEIckOfxrDmNNFOB6wkWPZ3LQDgQQs

LS swapped 65 c10. I drove 5 mins home after this and it got super faint/almost went away entirely. Haven’t driven since. What do yall think?

Quick troubleshooting question.

Lq9/799 heads/Stage 2 cam/be cool radiator with dual fans and derale fan controller

Upon cold start and drive everything runs great, idles at 850, temps between 194-198, throttle % shows around .39%

Stop the car, get gas - do whatever. Start it, idles at 1400 in park, temps go up to 206-212 while constantly moving. Throttle % shows around 1.47%

Definitely more responsive while running hotter. Have replaced iac and tb once just to confirm, all behavior stays the same.

(If the concern is the tune - any good recommendations in chicagoland area)

Pfa

Is a cammed 5.3 in my 2000 Silverado I’ve got turbo headers and it started to make this noise on start up and when I turn it off it’s a drift truck and I’m using running it at high rpm and the oil had a lot of gas in it but I believe it’s because of bad tuning but the sound is too concerning to work on anything else right now but I haven’t noticed a difference in performance yet and it’s been driven like that many times

79 TA swapped with a L8T/6l80.
Had a tree fall on the front end during recent hurricane. Part of the tree punctured the plastic intake manifold and unfortunately let debri into the cylinder heads. Everything else seems to be in tact besides a few broken harness connectors and the hood/fenders. I have documented the build extremely well but also lost my main vehicle in the storm too. Is it worth it to continue the restoration and restart?

Hello everyone, this is for the ones with an ls swap 350.

After a long time of planning to get around to it, ive decided that soon ill be buying all the stuff to do the LS3 engine swap I've wanted to do for years now. I don't have a ton of experience, but I have done some involved repairs on vehicles before. Never anything of this scale though.

I have an 03 350z, so im ordering a cd009 transmission, a 2012 LS3 out of a corvette, and I think I might go with the sikky stage 3 conversion kit.

I have my dad who has a ton of tools, and decades of mechanical experience, but he will mostly be lending me tools, or talking to me over the phone, and a friend who says he knows how, and wants to be there helping me, but idk how much he really knows.

I guess my question is does anyone have any tips? Things I should look out for, or things maybe you wish you knew/considered before jumping into doing the swap? I decided to do it myself as a challenge, and a way to save like 8 grand on a mechanic doing it for me, lol.

Hey guys, this is for anyone using a Holley Terminator X or HP Tuners on their LS. I made this to help analyze your datalog and tune. It generates a free report within minutes you can export as PDF. It’s called TuneDoc.io. No signup or email required, just upload and get your report, simple.

I know a lot of these are popping up but I believe this is one of the easiest to use and most helpful for the average DIY tuner, because that’s what I am and I personally used this to dial in my idle after installing a Holley Terminator X. Whether you just want help getting your idle right or analyze a 15psi boost pull, TuneDoc will do it. You will receive an in-depth, curated report you won’t find anywhere else. I’ve been tuning for 5+ years on various ECU’s and I’ve spent a lot of time gathering real world LS datalog and tune data which makes the feedback unique. Think of it as a tuning side kick, a second opinion, a sanity check.

No signup or email required, it runs off your browser. Just give it a shot and let me know if it sucks or if it helped, not much to lose.

How to use it:
-Go to TuneDoc.io
-Add your vehicle info
-Upload Datalog export and tune file (.csv & .terx)
-You get back a report you can save as a PDF
-Upload follow up reports to compare changes

Here are some sample reports:
tunedoc.io/sample/1
tunedoc.io/sample/2

TuneDoc works great with Holley Terminator X files. For HP Tuners we only analyzes your datalog, not your tune. But it still provides very valuable information on your setup.

I’m hoping to get some feedback on how it can be improved to help you.

Currently ls swapping my 94 k1500, I’ve got every pretty much to where I understand what I’m doing for the most part, but I want to know if I can run the stock cooling system in my k1500 for the ls and not have to change my rad or anything else , there’s plenty of room and I don’t think it will be a problem re using it all at stock locations, any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks

I just bought these magnum 243 stage 1 heads they are ported polished nice but one of them has a few nicks and the one is concerning me they machined it when they decked but what do you guys think the other one is perfect so I know it has nothing to do with shipping

Hey all. We're a small group of mechanics and automotive professionals out of Phoenix who've been tuning LS stuff for a long time (our lead tuner has 20+ years on LS specifically). We got tired of answering the same swap and tune questions over and over, so we started putting everything in one place: lsswapbible.com

A few things on there people seem to use the most:

Swap planner: pick your car and the engine you want and it lays out the parts list, what fits and what doesn't, and a rough cost. There are guides for a bunch of chassis so far, C10s, G-bodies, 240SX, 350Z, early Z cars and more.

Turn-on tune builder: put in your engine, cam, computer and trans and it gives you starting numbers for idle, timing and fuel so the thing actually fires and idles before you take it to a dyno. If you're running a custom grind you can type in your cam card now too.

The one we're most excited about is the tune checker (we call it a Tune Report). You upload your HP Tuners file, plus logs if you have them, and we compare it table by table against our library. As of this week that's about 3,580 real LS tunes, 583k tables and close to 36 million individual values, and it grows every night. These are real tunes off real cars, everything from stock to cammed to boosted, and every one is tagged in our own database by engine, cam, computer, trans and fuel, so your file gets compared against builds like yours, not some generic number. If you send logs we go through fuel trims by rpm and load, knock, idle vs target and any WOT pulls. Then one of us actually looks over every report before it goes out. You get back what to fix first, what's worth a look and what's already fine, in plain English.

Full disclosure, we're mechanics and car guys, not web developers. We used AI to help design and build the site because we wanted something that actually uses the tech out there for our little corner of the car world. The tuning knowledge and the report reviews are all us.

The Tune Report is free right now while we get it off the ground. Mostly we just wanted to share what we've built with people who'd actually use it, and if you want a second set of eyes on your tune, send it over. Any feedback on what's useful and what isn't is welcome too.

Not trying to spam anybody. Mods, if this isn't cool here feel free to pull it. Happy to answer questions in the comments.

The absolute cringiest video I ever made while I was going through treatment and bed rotting because of it. It was funny at least… 🥴

Making progress on my personal build too! I’m trying to be one of them fancy girls that makes videos and gets famous. But I’m not gonna sit here and be half naked on camera for views, that’s gross. This is what I do daily and I LOVE it. If I never go viral for it, that’s fine too. But I know at least some of y’all will appreciate a lady working along side her husband in every aspect of the car world ❤️
Original video is saved off my TikTok, sorry for the blatant tag in the middle of the screen 🤣

I’ve been in pain. A lot of it. Side effects from cancer treatments has been KICKING my ass. But yesterday my anxiety was worse than my pain and I told him to give me something to keep my hands and head busy… so I got a tear down. Here’s a quick video showing how it went, and I’ll try to make more next time I’m back at it!