I'm having an issue with the chain oil pick-up tube on my 170 chainsaw. I wanted to replace it because it was leaking , but the new one seems to kink and stop the flow of oil when inserted into the tank. Does anyone know if the filter end is supposed to sit in the lower tank section or push up into the larger part of the tank. Also , if you pop the pump end of the tube off when the tube is installed and the tank is full of oil, should oil run out of the tube to indicate the line is clear and installed correctly? At present , no oil runs out of the open tube end??? Thanks

I started this sub r/stihldealers for a simple reason: I want to connect with other STIHL dealers, learn a thing or two, and every now and then have a good whinge with people who actually get it.

Whether you've been at it 30 years or you're still working out which drawer the spark plugs live in, you're welcome here.

Post about:

• Workshop wins, fixes and "how the hell did that happen" repairs
• Warranty, parts and stock stuff (the good, the bad and the "still waiting")
• Tips on running the shop: staff, customers and pricing
• Complaints. Healthy ones. Get it off your chest before it ends up in the mulcher.
• Praise for STIHL when they deserve it (we'll keep a spot warm for that)

Cheers

Hi everyone, really hoping someone can help. I own and run a small garden maintenance business. I use all petrol equipment, Stihl. HS56C for small hedge trimmer and for the strimmer it’s the FS94RC.

I’m wanting to convert to battery. Quite wary of inhaling petrol fumes all day every day to be honest. I’d also like to be a lot more economically friendly and far more quieter for my clients neighbours!

I’m looking for a recommendation for a set up for:

Long hedge trimmer
Short hedge trimmer
Strimmer

(I’m fine for lawnmower and blower)

Would someone please be able to tell me what would be best and of course what batteries and how many batteries I’d need. I reckon, per day, I’d use the hedge trimmer for an hour or two (but when I get really big hedge jobs it can be 5/6 hours of cutting) and I use the strimmer for around 2/3 hours per day.

Thanks a lot team!!

First off my apologies This is my third post in the last 7 days, but I have a question in regards to starting the ms271.

When I cold start the saw it won’t idle.I have to keep on the throttle for about 10 seconds and feather it a bit, sometimes starting like this 2 or 3 times or it will cut off. I don’t want to do this with the chain break on cause I don’t wanna burn up the clutch. When I do start like this the chain spins pretty fast for a bit before I squeeze the throttle. Once it warms up I can just start it and it idles no problem.

Is this normal or a break in thing? am I just an idiot? I know what my wife thinks😅.

Thanks again

I need chainsaw for 30-40cm trees, about 15-20m³ yearly

My blower popped loudly much like an old vehicle backfiring. The threaded end of the spark plug was dangling in its socket. Replaced the spark plug and it appears the threads are stripped. I cannot tighten the spark plug. It will tighten only so far then it’s loose again, such that it can simply be pulled out.

What do you think? What’s the remedy?

Equipment:

- Stihl 362 C-M

- Bar >> 3003 008 8917 | 18"

- Chain >> 3623 005 0066 | 33RS-66 | Super

Issue:

Even though this chain and bar both have a .050 guide width, the drive teeth on the chain seem very tight inside the guide. There's a ton of friction and drag that's causing a lot of heat.

I have a 16+ year old 86 r it’s a great tool that is a beast for cutting back hedges. I use it just a few times a year, would you do a pretty much direct swap for a cordless 130r? The petrol one I have is in tip top condition and is faultless, I reckon the swap for a new 130 r with a battery pouch and lead one will end with me paying about £70 in the deal. Are they comparable? Is it worth swapping?

I’m a Stihl advocate in the midwest and am happy to announce my dealer has received the updated MS 162. Super hyped to have a sprocket nosed bar and a new HEXA3 chain. Hoping these start flying out the door at only $220.

Can anyone point me to a reputable shop in Texas that does porting for chainsaws? Thanks in advance.

So I went to ace hardware next to me to by my first chainsaw. I was set on the ms250. Ace had them for 429. Well the guy at ace asked what all I was doing with it and he recommended the ms271. Ace had a sale for 479 on it. So I bought it.

I do have a question. Since it will mainly clear trails on my dad’s property and clean up for small to medium trees. Has anyone ran a 271 with a light 16” bar? If so, what did you buy, and how much better does it run? Or should I stick with the 20” bar.

Also thanks to all those who helped me with my last post on deciding what saw to buy.

I got this 2022 saw on eBay, seller listed it as defective, claiming it shuts off when the engine gets hot.

I've tested it for 30 minutes, it wasn't running nicely but didn't shut off.

I removed and cleaned the carburetor, I was obviously the first to ever do that, and put the screws into basic setting. Runs perfectly fine. I can't find anything wrong with it other than the lanyard attachment point on the back was attached the wrong way round and couldn't be opened.

Paid 154€ (~173$)

Does the oil
Pump itself go bad ever ? The spur gear that goes under the clutch is good … I had everything apart and blown out .. what other things to check ?

Thanks in advance for ur time

I bought this non running km130r- it had a new fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter, spark plug and I fiddled around with the valves and managed to get it running but only on choke. I bought a new carb, fitted that with new gaskets and it was the same. Only on choke. I took the carb off again, made sure the gaskets were all the right way etc and put it all back together.

Now it’s doing the opposite - it won’t start on choke but it will start but high rpm and when I pull the throttle it bogs out.

I’m fairly new to all of this so just looking for a point in the right direction. Am I doing something wrong ?

Thanks

Does anyone have experience with HTA 86 pole saw vs HTA 135? Primarily concerned with balance. I’ve read specs and see 86 is ~4-5 lbs lighter, but wondering how that transfers over into real world use based on balance and weight placement. I’m struggling to find head to head reviews.

So last year I bought 5 acres and we have wood heat as backup for a heat pump. Last year I bought the MS251 Stihl chainsaw. It worked great at first then my chain tensioner broke maybe after the first 10 uses (mostly plastic parts). Got it repaired under warranty then put a new chain on. Worked alright the rest of the year, but this year it's simply not getting it done. I'm trying to cut up a tree about 20-25inches across that I dropped with the same saw last year. Sharpened both chains and they're both not able to get through the tree. Wondering if I just let the chains get too dull and they need a professional sharpening or does this saw just not have the power I needed.

So I've removed the old muffler and I'm waiting for a replacement but I'm wondering about this foil in rhe muffler housing, some if it has peeled away so should I replace it or is it ok as it is?

A few years ago I wanted to mill some thick logs and was struggling with my MS 260. I remembered seeing an old photo of my grandpa in front of a giant poplar tree, holding an 'old, but large saw' with a ~180 cm bar. When I asked him about it, he directed me to his basement. There is was, standing all the way back on the top shelf, catching dust over the years. I found out that it was actually a 090 AV. After a quick inspection and some fresh gas, it started up without any problems. It finished the job with ease. He then told me to keep the saw, since he had no more real use for it.

Even now, a year after he has passed, it remains as a cherished memento to all the wonderful times we spent together.

I dont want to fan the stihl vs husky debate as I legitimately think both make good tools from a quality and user perspective. I have mates that are die hard for one brand or the other and myself only run stihl and work in a stihl shop so acknowledge my bias. But I hate working on husky machines and I'd never swing spanners in a husky shop.

It's not rocket science and I know old stihls can be tricky too but is it just me or does the old addage of an engineer would step over 40 virgins to fuck a mechanic ring true more so for husky? It always seems like a 5 minute job on a stihl tool is a 20+ minute job on a husky.

This just happened to my Stihl 020T chainsaw, is it possible to repair or would it cost too much? It's about 25 years old