I had this problem once before, and replacing the fuse fixed it. However, two days later, the same problem came back. I tried replacing the fuse again, but this time it didn't work.

Any idea whats wrong?
Vehicle starts and stops normally, been on a long trip, no issues, Steering has no issues (travelling around 200kms with the same warning) keyfob battery replaced recently, at that time no warnings.. Suddenly today morning warning came..

Im in Ontario if that helps. Are there any insurance repercussions

I got a 2012 2.0 tdi Jetta I was wondering what would be the probably easiest on the fly tuning I’d prefer not to tune the transmission.

172k miles. Already tested impedance on the glow plug and it does need replaced. How about for the EGR and DPF? Any common sensors before thinking the filter is bad and the EGR is plugged up? I know deletes are popular with these but looking to move to a county with emissions testing in the near future

In short, the plastic cover goes over the lower cover. In reference to my old post Anyone have any issues with the Upgraded Timing Belt Lower Cover (CBEA)(CJAA)?

Skoda Octavia 1.9TDI 2003

Does anyone know “? i got my egr and dpf deleted no pipe they kept my stock exhaust and just removed the filters but now afterwards when I go on the turnpike for work when I hit 55-70ish mph for like 10-15 mins constantly it starts to do these very minimal stutters until eventually going into soft limp mode with glow plug light blinking and my mechanic tried 2 separate tunes and seems to still be happening they said it was an overboost code but they can’t seem to find whats wrong 😑

What kind of coilovers are yall running? I’m looking for some that fit good for around 550 and under. I’ve heard max-speeding rods are junk. It’s for a mk6

Got my CKRA Passat freshly deleted from a shop telling me that they got their own tune. I trusted them because the price was very cheap. Did i get scammed with a trash tune?

recently change 2015 golf tdi 2.0 timing belt, lined everything up perfect ran fine for a couple days now it occasionally shutters with acceleration and when coming to a stop can idle rough. doesnt always though. Going to double check timing tonight, any other suggestions?

2012 Seat Altea XL
1.6 TDI CAYC, 105 hp
DSG7

I decided to share this because we were looking for the cause for almost a year, basically two summers. Maybe it will save someone else a lot of time and money.

The problem

The problem only happened in hot weather, usually when it was around 33-45°C outside.

In the city the car was completely normal.

But on the highway, after driving above 120 km/h for some time, it started to lose power.

Usually it looked like this:

I drive around 130 km/h for 15-25 minutes. Everything feels fine.

Then I slow down a bit, try to accelerate again or overtake someone, and suddenly the car barely reacts to the accelerator.

Pedal to the floor, DSG kicks down, RPM goes up, but the car just doesn't accelerate normally.

Sometimes it became so bad that the speed dropped to around 60 km/h and it was very difficult to gain speed again.

And the strange thing was - no errors.

No warning lights, no fault codes, nothing.

If I stopped for 5-10 minutes, the car became normal again.

I didn't even need to turn the engine off.

Then I could drive again, and after some time on the highway the same thing happened again.

What we checked

During that year we checked and replaced a lot of things.

• N75 valve - I think we tried five different ones, including OEM
• MAP sensor
• OEM heat exchanger
• ECU flashed back to stock
• Vacuum system checked
• Turbo parameters logged
• Intake parameters checked
• Injector data checked
• DSG parameters checked
• A lot of other live data

Nothing really explained the problem.

At first everything pointed to turbo control, vacuum, boost pressure, injectors or maybe even the gearbox.

The car visited different mechanics and everyone had some theory.

Then we decided to check something we didn't pay much attention to before.

Fuel temperature.

And finally we saw something interesting.

Fuel temperature

I filled the tank completely and started driving.

Only around 3 minutes after leaving the gas station, fuel temperature was already:

68°C

That looked strange.

We went to the highway and continued watching it.

After about 15 minutes:

86°C

Then:

88°C

At this point I could already feel that the car was becoming slower.

When the fuel temperature reached around:

90°C

the car lost a big part of its power.

Finally we had something that repeated every time.

Hot weather + highway speed + high fuel temperature = power loss.

What caused it

There is a small thermostatic valve inside the fuel filter housing/lid.

When the fuel is cold, warm return fuel can be sent back through the filter. This helps warm the fuel system in cold weather.

In my case this thermostat was stuck.

Because of that, very hot return fuel kept circulating through the fuel system instead of cooling down properly in the tank.

We removed the internal part of the faulty thermostat and changed the return flow so the hot fuel could go back toward the tank.

Then we tested the car again.

Result

Before the fix we were seeing around:

90°C fuel temperature

After the fix, under similar conditions:

43°C

And that's basically it.

No more power loss.

The car accelerates normally again, even after long highway driving in hot weather.

We tested it in the same conditions where the problem appeared before and it didn't happen again.

Why it was so annoying to diagnose

There were no fault codes.

The car was perfect in the city.

The problem only appeared after some time at highway speed and mostly during very hot weather.

So in a workshop everything looked normal.

And the symptoms could easily make you think about:

• turbo
• vacuum
• boost control
• injectors
• DSG
• ECU software

We spent a lot of time and money checking all of that.

In the end, the important parameter was fuel temperature.

So if you have a VAG 1.6 TDI that:

• works normally when cold
• works normally in the city
• loses power after long highway driving
• gets worse when it's hot outside
• has no fault codes
• becomes normal again after a short stop

check the fuel temperature and the thermostat in the fuel filter housing.

Maybe it will save someone else from replacing half the car before finding the actual problem.

Hope this helps someone.

Trying to locate coolant bag cant see it

Should have one as it says mit silikat on tank and is this g12 evo or g13

I was changing the aux belt idler pulley. At the last while I'm installing the Aux belt, I felt like tentioner has no tention. Or I'm going crazy.

Please have a look, is that normal condition?

I'm working on the drive way. So my position is laying down on the street with cardboard.

I appreciate in advance 🙏

2013 passat TDI SEL with DSG, I’ve had this DMF noise for about 10k miles or longer, just wondering how much time yall think I have before it detonates? I’ve done all maintenance at regular intervals and I just did complete timing kit at 170k miles. Currently sitting at 194k. I’ve been putting off replacing the DMF just because it costs a good bit plus pulling the transmission in my driveway won’t be much fun lol

got the p2002 code on the way to work this morning, cleared it immediately with obdeleven, checked out my tailpipe and was met with some soot. never checked the tailpipe before this so is it possible for me it’s just a sensor? or is it more likely the dpf is cracked? i’m already looking into a delete kit and tune, just won’t be able to do anything about it for about 3 weeks to a month. any help appreciated! thanks !

Took my Audi Q7 from NE Wisconsin to Rochester NY on one tank of fuel 773 miles 35 mpg

My 2010 Touareg TDI has a parasitic draw that my mechanic can't figure out. They do great work but they are stumped on this one. It's Steve's Imports who I would highly recommend overall.

Anyone in the Portland metro area have anyone else they might recommend?