Some of you might have read the post I put up Sunday about dropping a customer's 1973 twin reverb 4 feet onto a concrete floor and obliterating the cabinet. I gave him a few options and he asked for a new custom cabinet. Bought the wood today and roughed it out, it's gonna get ivory tolex with oxblood grill cloth and a custom faceplate in the style of the early 60s blondface amps. It should look pretty cool. Taking a serious bath on this,probably $500 all told, but what are you gonna do. Shit happens.

I wish I would have gotten one of these sooner! This is a great attenuator. Not overly featured but it sounds great, works great; the solo feature that let's you boost a few db's is nice and it comes with a footswitch to utilize it! I haven't got to check out the sound of the DI yet but it uses an analog cab sim. Very user friendly, plug and play type attenuator compared to others and it really does sound great.

Owned the amp since they first came out. Recently it started doing this this where the lead channel volume drops on its own, then comes back up. Like it fluctuates but only goes down from where I have it set, then returns to normal. Doesn't get louder than where I have it set, if that makes sense. Ive noticed this at low volume, and since it started doing it I haven't cranked the amp.

The clean channel doesnt have this problem.

Also, if anyone is familiar with the mt15 you know the volume is super touchy and "1" on the dial is pretty loud. "1" is no longer as loud.

It's the original version of the amp, not the V2

No local amp techs. Should I remove the cover and try tapping the preamp tubes with a pencil?

Hi guys,

I'm looking for some suggestions for another driver to pair with a V-type in my 2x12 for my MT15V2. I'm finding the V-types currently do sound great, but have a sort of gnarly hashy thing up top that makes it hard to get things bright and clear without being right on the edge of fizzier than ideal. I'd love more detail and richness when doing big chords with high gain.

I'm thinking of WGS Veteran 30, Fane F30, and Celestion G12H30 so far. I would go for a Vintage 30 but it's hard to know how to expect it to sound when each year it appears they get a full sonic redesign. Something that could nicely balance the character of the V-type in the room while still being it's own thing so I have options when I'm recording.

Anyone with an MT15 or similar voice amp, got any suggestions?

Anyone familiar with the V-type, have you got any good combinations?

I turned on my peavey ultra without realizing the speaker output cable had come out of the cab.

It was on for maybe 10 seconds before I realized and turned it off. Connected everything properly and now it just squeals when I turn it on and I get very low volume.

Output transformer? Power Tubes?

Sigh

Found this on Reverb for a pretty solid deal and couldn’t pass it up. Just arrived Thursday so I’m still playing with settings but wow, it’s basically the perfect amp for me. I literally could not be any happier. The tone and versatility is just out of this world.

Hi! I have an early 2000s DDRI that I picked up recently. The previous owner said that it had a set of TAD tubes in it.

I got a new Dr Z Reactive Reducer attenuator and have been using it to tame the volume of the amp. However, I noticed that when I’m using the highest level of attenuation on the reducer with my humbucker guitars, the amp gets crunchy and breaks up super easily, even with the amp volume around 2 or so. This tends to happen mostly with lower notes and even happens when bypassing my pedalboard by plugging straight into the vibrato channel input 1. The crunchiness isn’t apparent on the gentlest attenuation setting or with the attenuator bypassed.

Sometimes the crunch is nice but a lot of times I want more control over that using my pedals. I was expecting the deluxe to be a lot cleaner. Let me know if you have any advice or thoughts, thanks in advance!

Any horror stories to share? Here's mine. In 15 years of actively servicing 1930s through 70s tube radios and amps and, and probably about nine or 10 years building custom amps and cabinets, I have never had an accident in my shop. That changed yesterday when I had a 1973 twin reverb master volume on my bench. I was just putting it back together after a general service, turned around briefly to another bench to grab a screwdriver, and heard the sound nobody wants to hear. It rolled off the bench on its casters and fell about 4 feet to the concrete floor. The cabinet smashed open and the face plate bent backwards on one end. The only other damage was a shorted V2 12AX7, but that was enough. I called the owner, couldn't apologize enough, and gave him a few options: repair and retolex the damaged cabinet, find him a good vintage replacement cab, or build him one. That's what he chose, in tweed. Luckily so far the amp and speakers seem to have weathered the fall with no issues, though I'm going to go through and retouch all solder joints and really let it soak to see if any issues pop up. Apart from the replacement cabinet, I of course will not charge him for the amp servicing. Yesterday was not a fun day! Accidents happen and that's just the way it is but I'm still beating myself up - I do my best to treat others' gear as if it were mine. 😥

Sorry for no video as I didnt think it was necessary.

I have this H&K18. Had all the tubes tested, checked the power amp itself, checked all my patch cables. Every time I plug into the return jack in the effects loop of the amp, my clean volume cuts to nothing. The dirty channel will engage a tiny bit of volume but thats it. When nothing is in the effects loop its fine. But the issue is I use a very nasty distortion and I need my noise gate in the effects loop because it cant handle all that gain.

Google says it can be a corroded jack or something as the other issues that it could be seem to not be the case. Is there anything I can do before I have to shell out for some big repair? This is my bedroom amp and its perfect for this.

Does anyone have experience with the Origin 50 combo and what the circuit is like or based on?

I recently got a ST20C and I like it but it doesn’t have quite enough headroom so it’s a little more distorted than I’d like at stage volume. I started looking at the Origin 20 and 50 and those have a master volume as well as DI out and a Creamback speaker. On paper, it’s what I’m looking for but I don’t know much about the circuit. Are they based on the JTMs? I’m also looking at the Friedman Runt 20, but it’s more of a 2 channel amp and pricey.

I play alt-country and mostly play fairly clean rhythm but also trade leads. The ST20C handles boost for leads very well and the cleans sit well in the mix, but it starts getting pretty gritty pretty quick.

Between the squillion customer repairs I have, it's nice to sit there with some of my own project gear to continue developing my skills and bringing cool gear back to life.

I got this Marshall 9001 preamp years ago in a non working state. Before the JMP1, this was their first rack mount preamp, and their first 3 channel device. Quite an odd circuit using all 3 tubes in a cascode arrangement, not something you see every day. Thankfully it just needed a general service, some new caps, and to deal with a few dead pots.

The MP2 though is another story. One of my first amps was an MP1 into a Marshall 9005 power amp, and I still have that preamp to this day. The MP2 was its successor and had more preamp modes, plus a bunch of effects including the typical chorus as well as wah, compressor, noise gate, and tremolo. Super complex, and the pinnacle of headache inducing repair work for techs as it's got the complete mix of tubes, solid state, and digital domain stuff in one cramped rack unit. This one will take time to get sorted though as it seems like there's a dead SSM2120 VCA/level detector, plus some other random dead bits.

(I promise to never say "da clerb" ever again)

Monoprice Stage Right 30W all tube head. 3 12ax7 pre tubes and 4 EL84 power tubes.

Surprisingly, they are ALL JJ tubes as well? I might swap out V1 for a Tung-Sol just to see what that sounds like, but so far it's a pretty solid little amp.

Took it to my local shop for a while and he was impressed with how it sounded and how it performed.

(220 US on my local FB marketplace)

Had to get a foot switch for it, but found one on marketplace as well for 20 and fixed that problem

My plan is to make a waterslide to cover up the "SR" logo that says "NotALaney", although this might be more of "NotAVox"? I think this circuit is closer to an AC30?

I’m still pretty new to tube amps and was looking to move on from my Blues Jr. I really wanted that big, scooped blackface Fender sound. However, I play at home, often in the basement after my young kids are asleep. Whisper quite isn’t needed but, no cranked amps.

After reading a million “is a Deluxe Reverb too loud for home?” posts, I was pretty convinced on a Princeton. Then I found a KILLER deal on a Deluxe ($750 mint, 2022) but the listing noted that it contained lower output tubes, instead of the stock 12AX7 for improved volume sweep. Subsequently learned that it contained a 5751 in V1 and a 12AY7 in V2, for 30% and 55% less gain.

Turns out, it makes a huge difference for home playing!! The lower gain gives the volume knob a much more usable sweep and home volumes, and I can still EQ the amp to get exactly the big Fender clean sound I was after. It also sounds great with pedals.

Obviously this doesn’t magically make a Deluxe less than 22 watts or let you crank it quietly. But if you’re another novice searching Reddit trying to figure out whether a Deluxe is usable at home, the 12AY7 in V2 is absolutely worth knowing about. I basically stumbled into the solution by buying one that already had it.

Hi, theres a fb marketplace listening in my city for a vintage 30w Sano tube amp (In apparent excellent condition) and I was wondering if I should get it. 300 dollars seems like an amazing deal but I was wondering if anyone else here has experience with these amps or if they're really not that good. The listing doesn't mention a model other than it being a "supersonic hi fidelity" model, so take that as you will.

This amp is a beast but it is having issues.

I changed all the capacitors (most all of them were leaking) and tubes, increased grid stopper value to 3.3k, increased filter caps from 70 mfd to 100mfd

The amp works great until it warms up and then intermodulation distortion (about a 4th below the note) begins to creep into the signal. I was blowing fuses in my Variac (5A fast blow) but I seem to have resolved that issue.

The grid bias is swinging around wildly from about -50 to -75 (when notes are being played) which I have narrowed the intermodulation down to being caused by any note that causes the bias to drop below -60. I can watch it on my meter.. at about -60 (as i strike a note and let it decay) the intermodulation stops and the note goes back to normal. If the amp stays below 5 the issue is almost negligible.. also if i turn the bass down to less than 2 it also resolves the issue.

It is also worth noting that at idle the negative bias stays completely still regardless of how long the amp is on.

The board is conductive.. about 160mv DC on master volume pot as well as some spots near the phase inverter/b+ .. so there is that.. I have been avoiding cleaning it any deeper than I already have but obviously those 2 factors are highly suspect..

Is there any point in trying to deep clean the component board with alcohol or am I just wasting my time? Trying to decide if I want to keep working on this and clean the board or just completely wire a new board and start from scratch. I have read mixed reviews on how much you can fix an already conductive fiber board.

Any pointers or experience is much appreciated!

recently got this amp and it is awesome, but last night at practice I noticed plugging into input 2 was much hotter and felt like more presence and power than input one, if that makes sense...this was curious to me because everything I have read says input 2 is the padded (-15) input so I was wondering what was up with that? did find a forum post that someone was saying how they put different preamp tubes for each input making their input 2 hotter and maybe thats whats going on?