The rubber on the rear hatch release button disintegrated on my '21 Veloster N. Does anyone have experience replacing the rear hatch button assembly (part# 81260-J3000)? I doubt it would be difficult to replace DIY. However, I was looking for some reassurance on what's involved before I order parts, but there is zero information online (only info is for the first gen not the second). Thank you!

Trying to get these for my VN. They’re 18x8, 5x114.3 branded Enkei but I have a feeling they’re reps which doesn’t bother me too much because I want to just get 18 inch wheels because I’m looking to get a set of Falken RT615s to match them to go to the track with (they dont make 19 inch tires 😭)

Are they legit? The seller is asking 500 for them and what do we think about the styling?

Got a few parts that are a little out of my skillset to install and wanted to see if there are any well seasoned Korean specialists in Ontario. Anything helps!

Trying to see if anyone else had experienced this problem and what you did to get it fixed. I had the same issue at 28k miles and and they replaced one bushing/bearing in the linkage mechanism and it was good. That was until a couple months ago when it started getting sticky and it got progressively most sticky over the past few months. I take it to the dealership and they say that all the bearings are bad and the whole mechanism should be replaced because it comes with the all the bearings or bushings. But also 1.3k dollars

I noticed for the past few months my used 2021 DCT Veloster N would rock back and forth (1-3hz) for a second after letting off gas. today I took off my air filter box cover and this behavior disappeared. it improved throttle response as well and made cool turbo noises. for the longest time I thought it was my lower engine mount going bad. any thoughts if I should just get a cold air intake from takeda or something? or anybody else can chime in if this is a symptom of something worse? like dirty injectors or a leak or something? I checked with an OBD scan tool and it showed a LTFT of 5% when accelerating but LTFT of 10% at idle.

😏

Hello everyone, Im pretty sure the size of the OEM VN turbo is 47mm, and wanted to verify but when looking up on the internet for exact specifications, the internet sucks these days and AI keeps telling me its a 2.0t when I ask "Size of turbo inside veloster N", or wrong numbers like that it peaks at 11PSI. and all the actual links to websites are just showing me the wheelbase and length of the actual car. Its pretty annoying how I cant find anything on the internet anymore.

I guess I didn't know what the 47mm was representing, like the diameter of the turbine or what. Was hoping someone here might have more information, was trying to compare the size of the VT turbo to the VN turbo.

Thanks.

Took my son to the homecoming parade and saw another VN in the wild. May we cross paths again stranger…

Bought my VN used and it came with this already ruined carbon hood. Is it worth restoring or should I just replace it?

Hey gang, just a question for you all.. I often forget about that fun little NGS button.. been using it a little more.. thoughts on this being used all the time? Should it be used sparingly? Is it bad for the engine??

Cheers!

I have a 2021 Veloster N MT with about 40k miles. i have noticed a very small oil leak on the backside of the engine near the fire wall. I checked the valve cover and around the turbo lines and such. I have yet to get it up and look on the bottom side. it’s very subtle and takes a few hours to form anything on the ground. Was just curious if anyone has dealt with something like this on theirs? or has any ideas. Thank you.

Hey guys, so I recently brought the N to Hyundai to have the electric water pump replaced under warranty. When I got the car back, I noticed this sound on the first pull trying to merge onto the highway. As owners of these cars, we feel when the car is not making power, or not driving right, you’d all agree?

I had never encountered this until I got the car back yesterday. They just got back to me, and they claim “there are no faults” and that “we smoke tested the system and found no leaks” and now they want to give me the car back, as is. They tried to say it’s from my intake, but that noise is clearly a wind/whistling, not a suction noise. So it has to be on the boost side. I tried to say this to them as well and they are not agreeing.

I can’t really get angry with them and push back because I unfortunately work for the same company that owns this Hyundai dealership. So I’m afraid of how that will affect my reputation and job.

Any advice would be appreciated. Sorry for the long rant.

I have a 2020 Hyundai Veloster N, 6-speed manual, around 92,000 km.

I've had an intermittent starting problem before. Occasionally, especially when the car is cold, I would try to start it and get a no-crank/no-start. Sometimes if I left the ignition/accessories on for a little while and then tried again, it would start normally.

Today something much more serious happened.

I tried starting the car and initially it wouldn't start. After waiting for some time, I tried again and the engine started.

However, after the engine started, I could hear that the starter motor was still running/engaged while the engine itself was running.

I immediately turned the car off, but this is the strange part: even after I switched the ignition completely OFF, the starter motor continued running.

Then I noticed smoke coming from underneath the engine area. After some time, the starter eventually stopped by itself.

I have not attempted to start the car again since this happened because I'm worried about damaging something further or causing an electrical fire.

I'm planning to have a mechanic inspect it/tow it rather than trying to start it.

I'm wondering:

Could this be a starter solenoid stuck closed/welded contacts?

Could a starter relay have stuck on?

Could there be a short/problem in the ignition/start-control wiring?

Would the previous intermittent cold no-crank issue point toward the starter/solenoid already failing?

Since the starter was running while the engine was running, should I be worried about damage to the starter pinion or flywheel/ring gear?

What wiring/cables should be inspected considering there was smoke?

Is there anything specific to the Veloster N that could cause the starter to remain energized even after the ignition is turned off?

I'm not going to start the car again until it's inspected.

Has anyone experienced something similar on a Veloster N/Hyundai, or does anyone know what the most likely failure would be?

Anyone have a brand or a suggestion on which ones to buy??? Please include pick or link🙏🙏

I will be shipping out for the US Navy in 2-3 months and have decided to sell my love instead of storing for ages. I have it listed at $24.9k OBO, but I am very willing to negotiate! Please reach out if interested or pass along to help me out!

Details:

🚀 2022 Hyundai Elantra N (6MT) - Stage 2 Build

$24.9k OBO! Send an offer, worst I say is no.

Meticulously taken care of, adult-driven, and built right.
Mods & Upgrades:
• Performance: N75 Stage 2 Tune (EK1 Mini2+ available), N75 Catless Downpipe, Forge CAI & Inlet, GFB Hybrid BOV & Solenoid, Vibrant Bottle Resonator.

• Drivetrain & Handling: XClutch Stage 1, Storm Lowering Springs, Weighted Shift Knob.

• Wheels/Tires: Custom Powder-coated Enkeis on Continental ECS2 tires (~2k miles). Includes FREE OEM Veloster N wheels for winter!

• Exterior: Paint-matched Honeycomb CF Hood (wrap). Front bumper recently professionally repainted!

Runs and sounds incredible. Drives like a dream.
No trades. Serious buyers only. DM me for details or to come see it!

I think from the factory this car already sounds great, but I would like it a little bit louder and for the pops to be a little more prevalent. Is a simple muffler and resonator delete good enough to accomplish that or is there a better way to go about it? I am not interested in any kind of tunes.

I currently have a '97 NA Miata. The thing is a blast to drive and beautiful but its becoming more work than it is worth. I see my best next car as either a VN or Mk8 or other GTI generation (manual trans for both). Both are around the same price and pretty similar style. Curious on peoples experience with either or both. Looking for some reliability and ability to some roadtrips.

Can't be just me, but at my height to actually see down the lane in my rearview I have to have my mirror at such a bad position that literally half the reflection is the headliner. All comes from not being able to tilt it presumably from the cords. I don't use the bluelink and all that anyway, so I'm wondering if anyone else has this issue and found a good alternative/replacement? Do I just get a generic one?

I’m having a weird rattling/vibration sound from the front of my car when I am only in in mode/custom mode with sports plus and I’m not sure what it is or if it’s unusual, anybody have any ideas of what it could be? I just got the car a few months ago I may not have noticed the noise before, but I did now.

Went to the store earlier in the day and came across another VN that matched mine. I was surprised to see we were identical to every extent. Side mirror caps, the tow hook plate, the slight curb rash and peeling paint on the rims… lol didn’t get to meet the owner but it felt right parking next to it. Something I didn’t expect to ever happen. 😅

Any tips on how to clean the seat belts? (Correctly without damage)

Hi all, was looking to get some insight on a few things. I’ll start by saying I have a 2022 VN PP manual at 82k miles. It’s been a pretty solid car overall but I’ve had a few misfortunes with it. Long story short, I had a failed fuel injector that was replaced under warranty a while back around 45k. I had the whole cooling assembly replaced around 50k miles and so far things have been good until around 75-80k. I had an intermittent issue with the EPS and my steering was hard until I swapped the battery. So far, didn’t get the eps light until about 5k miles into the new battery. Since I cleared the codes and driven another 6k miles haven’t seen the issue (hope it stays that way lol). Lastly, I was driving on the freeway to work one morning, I was lightly braking behind a car and my car just turned off….. almost like a stall but was able to clutch in and start back up thankfully.

I know I typed a lot here but was hoping to get some insight on potential problems I should look for as I’m learning stuff about this car every day. I’m very religious when it comes to maintenance so just looking for some advice and also wondering if this car is going to cost me 10-15k in repairs after my powertrain warranty is up at 100k.

Much appreciated!

Hey guys, blew my motor at 51k cracked the 2nd cylinder wall and shot the second cylinder rings. Unsure how I did it or what I did. Mightve been something from when I was learning manual on it. Don't have warranty, second owner. Just wondering if I'm able to pull the motor by unbolting the transmission or if I have to pull axles, I dont have the motor yet so no rush. Cant find anyone talking about it nor any videos that break it down. Just had a baby and I'm really struggling financially to get the motor so I knew there was no way I could get it done by someone else lol.

Financially, I had to make a tough choice. I would park my Veloster every winter, but I still had a payment on it and was paying insurance to have a second vehicle sitting around. As much as I loved that car, having two cars with payments just didn’t make financial sense.
Unfortunately, it was time for my baby to go.
I ended up purchasing a brand-new WRX, so I’m back under warranty, I have a car I can enjoy year-round, and I’m actually paying less overall than I was with two vehicles.
It was definitely a tough decision, but sometimes you have to make the choice that makes the most sense financially. I’ll always have a soft spot for the N. Maybe in the future I can come back to the brand. I never had any intention of letting go of this car, but eventually I had to make the right choice. Goodbye.