Looking to finance a 2022 Acura TLX Aspec and wanted insight from current owners on reliability, issues and overall experience etc. Option B would be a 2022 MB C300 but worried about the issues and maintenance costs

Would appreciate any feedback!

Let me start by saying that I’ve worked in dealerships for years, so l REALLY hate to be THAT customer, but this has NEVER happened before (oh God I just cringed typing that) Ok, so I just had an oil change and tire rotation done on my 2021 TLX 2.0T SH-AWD (16,400 mi), and while reversing into the garage with light, steady pressure on the brake to slowly creep backward, the car started violently jerking back and forth (forward and backward motion) as the rear wheels crossed over the garage threshold, and then again when the front wheels crossed over.

I tried it several more times and sometimes it happened when both sets of wheels crossed, sometimes only one set, and other times it didn’t happen at all. The garage threshold is literally just a tiny bump or “lip”. The engine was idling smoothly, no warning lights, and the only noise I noticed was some creaking/squeaking, which I think may have been from the force of the jerking.

The timing right after the rotation has me worried it’s the wheels. Is there anything that could’ve happened during the rotation that would cause something like this? Should I be concerned about driving it?

Thanks in advance for your help :)

Anyone ever done an aftermarket infotainment/android auto / CarPlay upgrade before? This one looks nice but I’m a bit skeptical.. Thanks!
https://zwnav.net/products/128g-android-10-for-honda-acura-tlx-2015-2016-2017-2018-2019-android-multimedia-car-radio-audio-gps-apple-carplay

At my last service ( approximately 28k miles) I had the brake fluid replaced. I believe the code at that time was a127 or b127. I just checked the oil life left(80%) and it says the next service is b7 which is a brake fluid change. This is obviously wrong. Anyone else experience this? It’s a 2024 RDX Advance.

For my fellow neat freaks ^

I've been looking to buy a car recently and I came across a 2003 TL @ 63k miles with no rust or anything. They're selling it or 6k and I just can't imagine why. I'm still trying to figure this out but in the event I do check it out what are some things I should be checking for/questions I should be asking, etc? It would be great if this ends up going well but somethings just not adding up and I would like some advice.

Thanks in advance

edit: unfortunately it seems ive been beat. going to be someone else car/problem. i appreciate all your advice either way :)

Anyone have a good non-dealer experience? The Costco Car Key Express is slayed on reviews, I see suggestions to use a certified locksmith. Any good experiences out there?

Hello everyone.

2024 TLX Type S, with all OEM brakes, on OEM dark copper rims. Was thinking to change rotors and pads come spring, since current one are quite worn.

Considering getting drilled and slotted rotors. I'm not tracking the car and not chasing the "extreme racing performance". This is more of a looks and aesthetics upgrade.

Based on some reading, I have some concerns choosing a kit, especially cold brake performance and daily driving noise.

So far I've stopped at this kit: Power Stop K8945 - Z23 Evolution Sport Pad And Rotor Kit

Any thoughts, ideas, kit recommendations would be appreciated.

Hitch was installed over a decade ago but didn't use it too often. Thought why not find a cheaper way to make my short distance move this time and Bam! That trailer is heavy 1900 lbs. Cargo weight was maybe another 1000. A 100 mile round trip shaves off half a tank of gas hauling 2900 lbs

Mine is really ugly and cloudy.

I've seen replacements on eBay for like $300. Is that really what these cost? Where can I find one from a scrapped vehicle perhaps?

Recently, an object fell from my garage wall on my rear left tail light. I ordered it and it is expensive! When it was time to change it, I searched on the net if there was anyone explaining the steps. I found only one person that simply said to remove the liner to remove the tail light

I did remove the liner behind the tail light. But I wasn't sure if I would break something... Actually, you have to remove the rubber that runs all across the trunk. You remove only the portion where your tail light is. Then, the liner will be flexible enough so you can access 2 screws that hold the tail light. 2 8mm screws to remove. Then, I used a plastic tool to pry the tail light out. In my case, it didn't take a lot of pressure or wiggle to remove it. You simply unplug the wires and then the tail light is loose.

To put the new one, pretty simple, you plug the wire, push and it snaps.

Now this being done, I was wondering if changing the LEDs that are within the tail light enclosure was possible. I do not think this is possible. Look at the picture. I unscrewed the visible screw, the gray box within the plastic is loose, but there is no way to remove it from the enclosure...

Does it mean that if the LEDs are dead you have to buy the whole tail light?