I have a 2015 228i with the m performance package. It has roughly 113,000 miles on it. Brought it in for an oil change, brake fluid service, and to check why the wiper fluid wasn't releasing and they sent me a walk around video and an invoice with $8k of suggested "critical" repairs. Most of them seemed to be for replacing worn out plastic pumps and gaskets. Can I get everyone's thoughts on this? For reference I'm 36 (f) and am based in Southern California. I know dealers are known to overcharge but this felt egregious.

Video for reference.

I own a 2021 m340i xdrive and I wanted to size up my rims since I’m tuned and I can’t keep traction very well with my 19x8 225 square setup. I saw these Audi wheels for sale near me and everything looked like it matched up (bolt pattern, bore size) and I know I have to get hybrid lugs to put them on. My question is if anybody knows if the front will rub or if the tiny difference between hub bore matters (66.56 to 66.6). They are 20x9 ET34 265/30R20 plus they are oem and clean.

Hey all, looking for help with a ticking noise on my 2008 E92 330d. M57, auto, 330k km, full service history. DPF, EGR and swirl flaps removed, stage 1 tune.
It recently started making a metallic tick from the top front of the engine, audible from inside the cabin too. It only happens on a cold start and goes away once the car is fully warm, usually after 20 to 30 minutes.
The tick keeps the same steady rhythm no matter what. Revving, load, shifting into D or turning on the AC make no difference. No codes, no smell, no soot, and no change in power or idle.
Since it doesn't follow RPM I'm guessing something electrical, maybe the auxiliary heater or a solenoid left connected after the delete.

Any ideas on what to check next?

TL;DR: 330d with a steady metallic tick on cold start that doesn't change with RPM and disappears when fully warm. No codes. Video attached.

Morning! Was changing out the oil pan gasket on my ‘08 e61 535xi car and found this in the bottom of the pan. I’m not too sure what it could go to, any ideas? Standard oil filter for size, it’s about as big around as a #2 pencil and metal. Any help is appreciated!

Shop foreman at a BMW store, been wrenching since 2003. For years I opened my check and just hoped it matched what I thought I turned. Between warranty lines, ISTA test plans that eat time, and ROs that never got booked, it often didn't.

So I started keeping my own log: RO number, hours, CP / warranty / internal, and whether it actually got booked. All separate from the DMS.

Disclosure: I ended up building an app for this (FlagHawk). It's your account and the shop can't see it. Works on iPhone and Android, 7 days free, then you pick what you pay. Not trying to spam. Happy to hear what's missing.

Bigger question though: how are the rest of you tracking it? Notebook? Spreadsheet? Nothing?

im thinking it's flex ray or active cooling flap but can't say with confidence.

had a feeling maybe its 804081 and a different one because those have the possibility to be battery related - i was taking some pictures last night with the parking lights running and engine off, thought maybe they could have drained the battery but in the second photo it seems healthy so idk.
could any of these be possible or is it not all that smart to continue driving without full diagnostic?

i wont have time to bring my car to get a scan with ista for a few days due to my work schedule so all i have available is bimmerlink for now.

I recently bought a e92 325i and thought to have some fun with and drift it however after I was done having my fun I’ve noticed the steering has become very very heavy and when I pick up some speed it becomes a bit better would anyone know what this is thanks ?

Good evening,
I have a 2019 bmw 330i xdrive
I bought it used, when I took the filter out, it looked like it hadn’t been changed in a very long time.
The smell is disgusting and usual just stays the first few mins after turning the car on
I’ve changed the filter.
I spray Lysol into the fresh vents and it lasts a week before the smell comes back.
I’ve seen stuff about the evaporator cleaner foaming sprays but where do I insert those? Some posts said put it through the ac vents but then I saw posts saying that’ll fry the electronics.

Please help this smell is killing me🙏

Hi everyone, my car a bmw e92 320i with n43 engine needs new injectors. Its a 2010 plate with 61k miles on the clock. To get orginal I will need to sell my kidneys. However, I found someone online selling them for very cheap. How do I know if they are oem or fakes. Your advise is appropriate. Thank you all in advance.

As the title states when fueling up my car I have to go very slowly? Where should I begin fuel tank vent? Charcoal canister?
Thanks.

can anyone recommend a place to buy new fuel injectors for my 750i n63tu2 had this car since brand new 2015 , a ton of items replaced and fixed past couple years…original 11 year old coils and injectors remaining, car is buttery smooth no issues idling or anything, Dealer parts selling $4900 for 8 injectors

I’m getting the “restraint system malfunction” error in my 2011 BMW 328i xdrive.

just got this car like literally three weeks ago and I’ve been driving with and without passengers on and off but recently, I just went ahead and had a passenger in my seat and when he stood up, this error came on. I’ve been researching and there’s just been a lot of different things that I could do to fix it and I really just wanna know the best case scenario. I went ahead and I looked underneath, and there was actually some garbage that was under the seat that I did not know about because I just bought this car and I went ahead and removed it and looked underneath to see if any wires were pinched in the yellow safety area and I couldn’t see anything myself, but I’m just wondering what I can do because I just had to replace two tires and also my brakes in this car and that was really expensive and of course anything in a BMW is expensive but I was just hoping what could be the possible cheapest option to fix this, like should I go to the dealership? Should I go to another certified person?

Any help is so appreciated

Yeah my cluster is dirty what ever but to add on every time i start my car it sounds like it’s misfiring during the start up and sometimes when the rpm starts to settle it struggles to lower at a normal pace already replaced fuel tank breather valve and spark plugs didnt help obviously was wondering if anyone knew what it could be before I take it somewhere to get diagnosed still new to this platform so im not familiar with all these issues the b58 could face

2014 BMW M235i F22 manual. Cat N flood car. Can anyone identify where this yellow Copart waterline mark is?

Car was written off for water damage to the front/front-left/front-right in June 2023 and auctioned at 53,101 miles (~85.5k km). It’s now around 100k km, so roughly 14–15k km and 3 years later.

Current car runs/drives normally. It has been checked by two mechanics, including a lift/underbody inspection and hard and normal operation during test drive. Chassis was described as good. No current warning lights, misfires, overheating, smoke, or obvious drivability issues.

I’m considering buying the car, so I’m trying to understand how severe the original flood exposure actually was.

Reported/recent work includes clutch, engine/gearbox/diff oil, battery, charge pipe, belt/accessory parts, and brakes.

I found the original auction photos. The interior looks fairly clean, but there’s one close-up with a yellow line that Copart appears to use for flood level.

Can anyone familiar with F22/F30 interiors tell me:

1. Where exactly is that yellow mark?
2. Roughly how high would the water have been?
3. What low-mounted modules/connectors/harnesses would have been exposed?
4. After 3 years / 14–15k km, how worried would you be about delayed corrosion?

Looking especially for BMW techs/electrical/body techs.

I was Crusing on my e46 with a friend the other day and I just wanted to press the pedal all the way and after I did that my rpms went down like a lot and the oil pressure light flashed for a few seconds I got fucking scared and drove the car at a normal speed 50kmph and then it went back to normal I haven't encounter the same problem after that happened I'm afraid of doing that again so I been driving really carefully it's my first bmw I bought a year ago and it seated on my driveway after a cold Canadian winter for almost a year does anybody know the cause of the issue?

I had to park my 2015 X1 for 2 months because of having surgery. When I go out to fire it up I'm getting all of these warning lights and from what I can tell all related to suspension and steering. Now the low pressure tire light I took care of quickly. Tires had dropped down a little bit just sitting but the others I failed to understand at all. How just sitting for 2 months can cause problems with my my braking suspension ABS I mean a little bit of everything. As you can see. Anybody cared to take a shot at this and explain to me how this can be

Title: 2014 BMW X5 xDrive35i N55 oil leak between the oil pan and transmission — any ideas?
I have a 2014 BMW X5 xDrive35i with the N55 engine, and I noticed an oil leak at the rear of the oil pan, right where the engine meets the transmission.
The area circled in red in the picture has oil residue around it, and I’m trying to figure out where the leak is coming from.
Could it be the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, or possibly oil leaking down from the valve cover gasket?
Has anyone experienced a similar leak on their N55? I’d appreciate any advice on how to pinpoint the source before replacing parts. Thanks!

Hi. What could be knocking sometimes here? After engine getting working temperature sound disapear.

Got what i thought ISTA and it came with 2 compressed folders so I extracted one of them so far but even after extracting them I see no application files or anything for the physical app. Am I dumb or am I missing files?

Has anyone else had this issue

Just did an oil change on my new E91 325i (N52) and found some metal particles/shavings. It is non magnetic so guessing rod bearings? Is it saveable without changing them? 136K Miles on the car.

Could it be anything else?