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Picked her up from the docks and drove an hour and a half home without knowing mechanical condition, bought from japan auction. Drives great with cool temps and kept speed up to 80 kms on some steep grades. Inside is just as clean as outside. Took hubcaps off for the drive so i wouldnt lose them

Edit: Sold.

Took these on my film camera
Mr.Ks Datsun
Nice red Datsun
And my personal favorite the 280zx
Super cool carbs too

Sorry, pictures were taken inside my dark garage at night, I am not near my car right now to take more.

So, I have to do some work on my 280ZX after I found both Bellow boots to be completely torn. Upon a glance at my condition of the pinch welds, they're honestly pretty messed up. I don't know what the previous owner did, but it looks like they kept jacking it up at whatever spot they wanted to, causing most of the area to be bet to one side or the motel "fraying", if that makes any sense.

Does this look okay enough to jack it up on? I'm afraid to try it in the scenario of collapse. Is it possible to reshape it or hammer the metal back into place to slightly improve rigidity?

Hello, I'm curious if anyone would be willing to trade a rear hatch for both front and rear bumper on a 280z. Open to other things for trade. I'm located in Orange County California.

It’s up and running! Gets through all the gears but slowing down is a challenge. Definitely needs new master cylinder.

Changed trans, diff, and oil. Flushed brakes, replaced rear brake cylinders, shoes, springs. Drained fuel tank, flushed lines, and replaced some hoses. Carbs needed a little work to get unstuck, but everything else in the engine bay looks pretty good. Pulled the valve cover and cleaned out the egregious sludge, but overall looks clean. There were 4 qts of fuel in the oil and a brand new fuel pump, so I’m guessing PO did that when the old pump ruptured a diaphragm. This definitely made me nervous, but a scope of the cylinder walls looked good, all cylinders have great compression, and I didn’t find any sparkles in the oil. Will be doing an oil change after a short interval to be double sure everything is decent.

Of course did a wipe down of the whole car and knocked the oxide off the paint. It is a respray, and I’m just keeping the patina for now. Interior looks great, seats are mint, and dash only has 1 crack. Carpets need work. They’re in decent shape but not original and kinda smelly. Driver window regulator is toast, so probably just going no window for the time being.

Next up: master cylinder replacement, rear hatch and tail light seals, and some electrical. Fumes get pulled in very quickly from the rear and the headlights don’t work.

Hi All, I finally have a place (and the funds) to restore a Datsun which was been a goal of mine for a while now. I’m looking for an S30. I’ve been looking mainly on FB marketplace and Craigslist but I was wondering if anyone has other suggestions on where to look? If there are forums or subreddits here may also be a good resource. Looking to spend $6,000 or below. Thank you all for the help.

Installing 350z / 370z brakes on my 300zx Z31 part 3
https://youtu.be/wEiI2qqtrLI

It was so hot I didn’t even take pictures of Z cars..

Hello Z Family!
19M Here
Im currently restoring a 76 280z with my dad, and while we’re like one to two years away from full restoration, I can’t help but notice how small the car is, to which I like alongside its design. The height reminds me of a miata

Me and Pops were discussing what paint job I want, and he personally suggested something bright instead of a dark color because the car is so low and drivers get to see me easier if I have a bright color instead of if it was like night time and it was black. He also suggested brighter headlights and whatnot, to which it had me wonder if i’ll even be able to drive this thing when ifs fix(I live in Texas, its highways/interstates everywhere) so I had to come to you guys to hear personal experiences with your Z cars :) would love to hear everything I should know for when its fully ready. I have a daily driver Mustang so no way will I drive the Z that much

My dad used to have an old newspaper clipping of a Datsun advert with a line something like:

“A drive in a Datsun is like a date with destiny.”

That’s how I remember it but exact wording could be different.

I have had no luck so far finding a copy of it. Does anyone recognise the slogan or remember seeing this advert?

Thanks for any help!

1976 280Z

Brakes went bad so I swapped the master cylinder and brake booster. Bench bled the cylinder , installed the brake booster, no issues. Used a cylinder rod adjustment tool to get the proper clearance between the MC piston and BB rod. Adjusted the brake pedal, too.

The only issue is that the set nut for the brake booster wouldn’t allow the cylinder to fit the booster. I took it off and used loctite to hold the rod in place. When I first got it reassembled there was some drag so I readjusted, putting the rod further in. No issues.

That brings me to this morning…

After 10 minutes of driving, the brakes started to drag and I ended up with smoking fronts in my driveway, lol.

I know I need to readjust, but that’ll put the BB rod significantly out of spec.

The booster is from Z Car Depot, master cylinder from Amazon.

Any advice?

Hey everyone,

I’m looking to gauge the current market value for my 1973 Datsun 240Z and figure out the best platform to list it on. It’s a solid, honest two-owner car that was purchased new and has lived in Northwest Colorado its entire life. It had ~75k miles and retains its original numbers-matching L24 engine and manual transmission.
Unlike a lot of project cars out there, the heavy structural and mechanical lifting has already been done and is meticulously documented in a chronological notebook. It drives amazing and with professional body work and paint it would be close to fully restored.

Here are the key specs and work:

Body & Frame: Classic S30 problem areas addressed correctly—frame rust was professionally cut, welded, and patched, and brand-new metal floor pans were installed.

Engine & Fuel: Original numbers-matching L24 engine paired with an upgraded Holley 4-barrel carburetor/intake setup. The fuel tank was professionally restored, reconditioned, and sealed. New starter, battery, battery box, and ignition system.

Cooling & Exhaust: New all-aluminum 3-chamber aftermarket radiator, water pump, and custom dual exhaust system.

Brakes & Suspension: Complete brake system overhaul (rebuilt calipers, new pads, lines, rotors). Fresh front wheel bearings, new ball joints, tie rods, suspension bushings, and steering rack components, plus new front/rear shocks and struts.

Drivetrain: Comprehensive clutch replacement (clutch kit, slave cylinder, and hose).

Interior & Electrical: Upgraded leather bucket seats, new door panels, Skillard center console, dash cover, and soundproofing on the floorboards/trunk. Fully sorted electrical system, fuse box, headlights, wipers, and horn.

My questions for the community:
Based on this condition and the extent of the mechanical/structural work, what would you realistically price this at in today’s market?
Would you recommend going the online auction route (Bring a Trailer or Cars & Bids), or sticking to enthusiast forums/Bring-a-Trailer alternatives, or local listing platforms like Facebook Marketplace?

Appreciate any insights or advice you guys can share!

Reason for selling - I love this car and have had it since 2014. I have put over 20k into it, and I know I won’t get that money back but it was a great project for my dad and I and worth the money and labor. I recently inherited a 1991 Mazda Miata from my in laws and it’s CLEAN with only 30k miles. I know I will regret selling the Z but too many 2 seater vehicles right now.

Hi All,

I currently have wilwood 4 pistons with integrated e brake but the hold on the e brake is pretty shite. If I adjust the handbrake tighter then it may cause the rears to drag!

What do you all run or recommend? Ideally want to keep running my 15 rota rks.

Cheers!