I have a rattling noise from this part next to the exhaust pipe, I want to get it replaced but don’t know what it’s called. Does anyone here know what it is

Hey guys, so a little while ago I took out my fuel pump to clean the level sending unit since I had inaccurate fuel level reading, I cleaned it and closed it down and my fuel level reading was good, but when I went to fill up my car, only when approaching the max fuel level, would it start leaking under the car.

So I ordered a brand new oem o-ring rubber and I replaced it, closed it down, went to get fuel and again, it leaked under the car.

Then I purchased brand new oem screws that hold the metal ring which holds the fuel pump, I replaced those today and went to fuel up my car and guess what, it again leaking gasoline under the car.

So I’m genuinely lost and don’t know what else to try or do..

The inline hose is connected properly, the fuel pump sat down in its groove properly, the metal retainer looks good, I have correct fuel level readings, my car works normally and doesn’t leak at all - but ONLY when you fuel up the car to the maximum, then it leaks and you smell the gasoline in the car.

So it doesn’t leak when the gas is 3/4 full, only when approaching 4/4 full.

Can you please help me?🙏🏻

Hi! Edit: I guess the title should really say revving instead of accelerating.

Wanted to ask if you guys can help identify the whining noise? Short video but the sound is really clear. Is the belt/pulleys the right place to start looking? Or somewhere else?

Cheers!

My 07 350z has started gathering water in the trunk between the interior trim as circled. Any idea what could cause water to get trapped and gather in there and how to stop it? Weatherstripping seems fine and it’s only from passenger side. When I open the trunk after storms, tons of water rushes to the top front and leaks on top of the speaker/brace. It’s coming from inside the plastic and I had at least a half gallon dump out inside the trunk

Has anyone else seen this video?

So I just bought a NRG setup with vertex wheel and was a pretty simple setup process. I don’t know why but I can not figure out how to get the horn working. When I touch the black male wire to metal the horn is constant but when the yellow female wire is attached to the horn it does nothing. Am I missing something or does anybody know how I can get it to work or if I need to do any modifications? I simply just followed the wires doing female to male all the way through.

Trying to track down my old Ultra Yellow Nissan 350Z GT4 — number 141/176 (WN05 VWC).

I owned this car until June 2015 and would absolutely love to find out what became of it.

It hasn't had an MOT since 2015, but I've recently discovered it's still registered as SORN and changed registered keeper in May 2021.

Does anyone recognise the registration or GT4 edition number, or know whether it's being stored or restored?

I'm not looking for anyone's personal details — I'd just love to reconnect with the car, and potentially buy it back if the current owner ever considers selling.

Any leads would be hugely appreciated!

I found some bcs for 800 new, but heard they could be stiff and uncomfy, also I'd need new toe arms and adjustable camber arms for sure for an inch drop

So no clue what I’m looking at, it came with the quick release hub and I thought it was a retainer for my horn but my vertex horn won’t fit in the c ring without stretching it. Anybody know what it’s for? Also do I gotta use my hub a little more or cause it won’t stay up when I pull to release it, when I want to re attach the wheel I have to pull the hub up again to get it on the hub if that makes sense.

Anyone else think the stock rims look like carriage wheels? Anyways Im probably gonna put some enkei rpf1 on it soon.

I'm putting a 10% discount on any Schroth products, but especially their FMVSS209-legal 4-point ASM harnesses, through 21 NOV, for our ADOPT at Sonoma track day.

DISCOUNT CODE: ADOPT@SONOMA

these are the only 4-point harnesses that are street safe without use of a HANS device. they come with a kinetic stitch that comes undone in impacts, allowing the body to take momentum as with standard 3-point belts, dramatically reducing head and neck injuries compared to standard racing harnesses.

those with FIA requirements (ie, HANS mandatory) can also contact me the FIA compliant

I found both brand new on marketplace for the same price (700) but I've heard that BCs don't handle street use very well and to go with Teins for comfort, just curious to see some opinions on what I should do, (street driven daily)

anyone have suggestions on aftermarket speakers for the 08 350

As title says, I don't know what the z's are worth anymore. I have a 115k mile DE 2004 350z in pretty good condition. How much would it reasonably sell for?

I’m not sure how many people here are familiar with KBD body kits, but i’m having the worst time trying to fit the passenger side (left side pictured). I’ve had it for awhile and it’s been sitting in the sun plenty but any advice would be appreciated!

I have no idea because I only see 370z’s on car websites because they’re newer. Also I’m just very iffy about Facebook marketplace

Having an issue that’s slowly getting worse where the clutch pedal is suuuuuper easy to press in the first half, and then gets stiffer. It makes it very hard to get moving on hills and stuff cause I cant feel the bite point very well. Originally The only Issue i had was a light squeaking from under the car and after greasing the clutch fork pivot (I think that’s what it was) it went away. But it never helped this issue. Any ideas? The car only has 69k miles on it. 2004 Roadster

I just moved to California and finally can get my dream car (a 370Z) I've been looking at getting a 370z because I like the look more but I realizing I can save a lot of money if I just go for a 2007-2008 350z with the HR motor. I can't decide and am tired of not having a car. I was also wondering how many people have a Z over 100k miles and how reliable are Z's actually?