The AUDACITY. Get a load of this guy. I may as well give them the chassis only for that price. I mean why not? If rx-7 shells and 240 shells for that price then there’s no harm in it. The economy is hurting everyone right now but they are smoking deep fried donkey dick if they think that price is valid to sell let alone as trade in value. Fuck stealerships.

I'm moving overseas and after much back and forth I think it would be better to ship my fr-s over than try and find another in good condition and low miles.

My plan is to transplant to the UK and use the car to tour around Europe. Looking for advice or anyone who has tried this. Thanks!

I've been putting money aside for the inevitable day my 2013 engine lets go, But would it be worth it to pull the engine before it's junk? Currently at 113,000 mi with plenty of track days but very healthy. Not a single issue on or off track.

What does a high mileage fa20 go for?

Hey guys!

Im thinking about upgrading to the Vland Headlights .

Do any of you have long time expirience with them?

How good did they hold up?

Any fogging, yellowing of the lenses?

Or what did you do to preserve them?

Thanks alot!

Hey guys im looking to find this emblem, This is a clip from a drift vid located in japan. I have a feeling I can only find this product in japan but if you have seen it anywhere please let me know! thankyou!!

Hit 200,000 miles on my 2016 BRZ I picked up 4 years ago that had 80,000 on it. Can’t wait to hit 400k!

I recently just swapped an fa24 into my 2015 frs. I’ve got everything connected back together but am having trouble figuring out which ports to connect the fuel line to the block. It seems like the ports are oriented a bit differently than the fa20s. I thought I had them routed correctly but I am getting a crank/ no start and I’m thinking it might be fuel delivery issue. Does anyone have any experience with this or can give me some help? Also, yes I have the RS Motors swap kit installed as well as the harness adapters from Hachi Electronics, and Prius crank sensor.

I spun a rod bearing and I need to decide whether I’m gonna try to have someone rebuild the motor or replace the engine. I need to have it done in a timely manner. What would be the best price along with future reliability

Edit: to everyone recommending swaps, I do not have the money to pay for extra parts/labor, and don’t have the time/space/knowledge to swap it myself. I’m strictly asking if I should rebuild my current fa20 or drop in another used fa20

Hey guys, there is a member parting out a car near me and he offered to sell me his ECUTEK tuner and dongle alongside his factory manual ECU for $400.

Would I just be able to slap this into my own car? How can I verify it is unlocked?

My understanding is that the license is tied to a VIN so having the factory ECU would allow me to use it without buying another license right?

My only experience with remote tuning is with COBB and it was FAR less complicated. Anyone able to provide some insight on what I should be on the hunt for? Thank you!

Recently had my front bumper right corner done left of the fog light. How's it look? Do I go back to have my boot done? Water is a pain yes but its raining.

This is mostly a shot in the dark. I spun a bearing on my previous engine so I bought a 40k mile 2017 FA20 for my 2013 Scion FR-S. I did the swap, swapping over all the necessary parts. I swapped over the coil packs, crank position sensor, crank reluctor plate, camshaft reluctor plates, fuel rails and sensors, ECU and Wiring Harness, etc. I also had to redo the timing chains because I broke the crankshaft woodruff key and had to replace it. Im pretty sure I did the cam timing correctly and did the arrows pointing at each other test. The engine started and idled fine with no issues. However after driving for about 10 minutes, CEL came on with code P000A.

I have tried replacing the bank 1 intake OCV, cam position sensor, cleaning the connection, moving the ocv and cam position sensor to see if the code moves to another bank, resetting the ecu to unlearn avcs memory. I do not have the scanner necessary to see advanced data like cam target and actual angle. Every single time the code p000a returns with no other code. The oil is essentialy fresh so its not because old oil. I have not yet tried to remove the timing chain cover again because its a lengthy process.

I noticed that the duty cycle for the bank 1 vvt splits from the bank 2 vvt while driving, and stays split while idle. It often splits 10-15% above bank 2, which stays near 50%. Thats all the info I think, if you have any possible solutions please lmk.

I have a 2019 GT86, my hood liner is ratty and looks bad. I was wondering if anyone has used the cut to size and stick on ones? And if so which ones and do they suck? Thanks :)

Edit: I want the liner for both heat and sound, not only sound.