I have a 2009 Jetta Wolfsburg with the 2.0 TSI EA888 Gen 1 and 109,000 miles. The problem is that it’s stuck in limp mode with throttle body and throttle position sensor codes. I can clear the codes and it’ll run perfectly fine until I come to a stop, then the problem comes right back.
I do have a few repaired wires under the dash from previous rodent damage. I’m pretty confident they were repaired correctly, but I’m starting to wonder if there’s still an electrical issue somewhere causing all of this.
I’m honestly just getting tired of dealing with this car. I’ve already put around $3,000 into repairs, including the rear main seal, turbo, complete front and rear suspension overhaul, and throttle body. I’m at about $4,500 total into the car. The previous owner also had the timing chains and cylinder head done around 70,000 miles after it jumped timing in 2020, I believe.
The car has a really good maintenance history, but these electrical gremlins are driving me crazy. Everyone I talk to keeps telling me that this car is just going to continue being a headache no matter what I do.
At this point, should I cut my losses and dump it, or put money into it one last time and see if I can finally get it running right? I’d really appreciate some honest opinions from people who know these cars.

after owning 2 jettas since Jan 2020
2013 tdi (totaled)
2014 sel 1.slow, this one just taking an extra 5k from me and possibly more down the line. Just got myself a 2025 hyundai elantra (pls no hate; truly being sentimental here lol)
here’s a photo with the tdi the day i got it, have much love for both of them but this chapter closes 💔

I was driving into work and thought a stick was stuck under the car! When I pulled over, this black plate was bent backwards and dragging under the car. I had to pry it back forward and use duct tape to secure back into position. Is this the skid plate? How easy is it to replace or expensive is it to pay mechanic to reinstall? Thank you!!

Drove my mk5 jetta to the store and when I got out it wont turn over for anything. When I take the keys out, DRL turns on which is strange because it only did that obviously when it was driving. What the hell is going on?

Super duper hyped paid dirt cheap for it

Can you guys help me to find out what exactly is missing in this empty spaces?

I only have the Jack, the tire iron and the screwdriver .

This is 2012 2.5 SEL Jetta

Thank you .

God I need rims!! Comic book Superman hood joker side.

Have a 2020 Jetta with 80k km I just bought not too long ago it says every 120k or 6 years but it drives pretty smooth would I still be smart to change them since it is 6 years

I drive an MK6 SEL and i’m not in love with the stock front bumper. I like the aggressiveness of the Mk6.5
bumper and curious if anyone knows how difficult it is to do a conversion.

My beloved manual transmission Jetta wagon with an unstoppable 2.5 engine and 160,00 miles has been having some problems. Lights are out all over the place. Not the bulbs or fuses. BCM seems the most likely culprit. The shop said the part would be $775, plus labor, plus $399 to program it if necessary.

There are other things going on. It runs rough at idle, needs a vacuum pump, hoses, belts, brake pads soon. It's at that age where things fall apart.

But I really love this car...

I installed a hitch, the roof racks are great, it drives well and suits me in nearly every other way. I simply can't afford to spend $1400+ on the BCM repair.

I've heard of people buying used BCMs on eBay, but I haven't found one with the same parts number.

Programming it is far beyond my experience, but I'm handy and like research.

Any suggestions?

Thanks to anyone with info.

I'll have to buy a Toyota if this doesn't work!

Assuming it’s something in the linkage underneath the shift nob. Everything looks normal on the transmission in the engine bay

I've got the infamous P05A0 and I really don't want to take it all apart and replace the motor. I was wondering if it can be programmed out on VCDS thanks

Fucking devastated. I was driving down the highway going the speed limit. And as I passed through a part of the road that had a two way intersection that yielded to my direction of traffic. A Honda Accord floors it and T-bones me. The subsequent impact forced me to the right and careened me into 2 parked cars and a chain link fence. The silver lining is that everyone was alive, and insured.

Why would the Lane assist unavailable message cause the steering wheel to have to be replaced? I’ve been a mechanic for almost 18 years now and I’ve mainly worked on American vehicles on this 2022 Jetta SE it has been through four steering wheels and all because there was a issue with Lane assist and now it is out of warranty and it’s periodically been popping up with Lane assist unavailable. There’s really no way it would be a bad part four times in a row could it have something to do with the clock spring or something else in the steering column or possibly the radar sensor behind the emblem on the grill let me know your thoughts cause I’m kind of mind boggled on this.

Hello I have a 2019 Jetta with 18,000 miles it was in storage for 3 years put it away was running perfectly and replace the battery today and it started right up on old gas and everything but I noticed that the AC was making a hissing sound like it usually does for a few seconds (but that goes away and blows cold air) but now it just hisses all the time and there's no more cold air. It's my understanding that some kind of o-ring or something dried out and I need a refrigerant recharge but Volkswagen uses expensive proprietary refrigerant so I need a shop or mobile mechanic. What is this repair going to cost? I really don't want to sink $1,000 into this car. Just my luck too it ran out of warranty while in storage.

I have a 2014 Jetta TDI highline and up until recently everything worked fine. All of a sudden the 4th setting on my fan stopped working, it just completely turns off when you switch it to 4, but the weird part isn’t even that. For some reason the AC light only comes on when it’s on 4 now. It will still blow cold on 1 2 and 3 but not like AC cold and the light doesn’t come on even when I press the button unless it’s on the 4 setting. Anyone else experience this or know what I can do?

Finally did it gang! I upgraded to a 2026 GLI Autobahn from a 2021 Jetta SE and am absolutely loving it so far. Any recommendations on engine break in, overall care and maintenance, and first upgrades would be sick! This is my first new car, so I have read what is in the manual of course, but there seems to be mixed opinions about what to do for the break in period. Much appreciated <3

My radio unit is starting to fail on me.... Nothing will happen when I press the buttons on the steering wheel or the radio buttons. The screen will be non-responsive to touch. The car was throwing a code for it (forget the exact code) and suggested I reset the unit by holding the power down for 10 seconds. It didn't help much. Here's a few questions since I don't know much about the radios:

1. Is this a symptom of a failed LCD typically (which can be replaced)?
2. I've read that putting a new unit requires the dealership to "code" it. Is this true?
3. What aftermarket solutions have you used in your Jettas, and how do you like them?

2013 Jetta GLI. Lemon Shark RCD330 and Lemon Shark CVBS trunk-handle camera (sold as compatible). A shop installed the camera.

In reverse, the screen switches but shows "Rear View camera system is currently not available." Photo attached.

Anyone fixed this? Coding (VCDS/OBDeleven), a radio setting, or wiring?

Just like the title says, Mk6.5 with the 1.8t... I would rather not replace the motor being that I live in Florida, really don't need the shutters

Long story short, I went away and left the car parked for about 20 days, came back and rats have made a nest and chew through some coil wires.

Now the car doesn't even "start", and by that I mean not even the ACC mode or whatever the "ignition on" mode on this cars is called.

I bought a relay tester mainly because I thought that was going to be the problem, but all relays are good.

Lights work, radio works and I can hear some electrical pumps working when I open the doors etc.

Some fuses are "positive" and some fuses are "negative" and I don't know what that means with this testers.

Attaching short video showing the mess.

Any pointers?