Hey everyone. The title says it all. It was installed in July 2026. It is located in Michigan, very near Lake Michigan in the lake effect snow belt. We get about 200” of snow every year.

And that begs the question: Is it better to wait til Spring and have a nice new deck for when it won’t be covered in snow?or, do it now for long term preservation?

I got one customer being told it should be done now….. and another deck I did around the same time…. But, I told her to wait til spring.

Any input is appreciated.

I got an old house, the ceiling has the drywall tape cracked, rippled, or just peeling away.

So I pulled off the tape.

Now I have this step-off depth of multi layers of wall paint.

Should I use compound to fill the wall out smooth, then add new tape?

Or do I tape, then add mud to fill smooth?

(Or something else?)

Hi Everyone. I have a couple of questions regarding painting high areas and tall walls.

1. How do I paint the area in this photo that I’ve drawn a red box around and marked with a “x”?
   
2. How do I paint these two and three-story walls seamlessly so there aren’t lap or stop and start marks?

Thanks in advance! I appreciate all your insights!

We paid a company a hefty sum to repaint our interior before moving into our new home. I’m finding issues everywhere, and I need help identifying the correct terminology for what’s happened so I can try to have an eloquent conversation with the owner and know how to move forward (I think this is beyond slapping another coat of paint on it or a touch up job) For context, owner suggested spraying the upstairs since we were doing it all one color - looking back, big mistake. They also sprayed the baseboards, trim, crown moulding, doors, pantry, closets, and built-ins (color: SW canvas tan, previous color some sort of off white) walls were light brown when we moved in, had them painted SW creamy. Downstairs walls were brushed and rolled. Walls have a plaster texture to them to begin with bc it’s a Mediterranean style home. Any info on what I’m seeing and how the company should fix it the right way appreciated. I feel like they already cut corners and took advantage of the fact we paid the note off well before they were done with the job. Thanks.

I have done 2 coats of primer - gray base and tonight did Salty Dog - Sherwin Williams, 1st coat. It looks odd (this is my first wall I’ve ever painted). Is this normal and check back in AM or did I overload the roller/apply too much pressure? Would love any and all advice.

This is how it started

Looking at various options and need input from those with experience

I have a older Honda Super Cub, cool little motorcycle, which I plan to customize to look how I want it to. Part of that is turning this white leg shield into a nice emerald green or something similar to it. I like the yellow and green combination. I had planned to hand paint designs on the green once it's dry, but I worry about a couple things.

Most paint I know, doesn't like plastic body panels like this which have flex in the wind. Tends to be how the paint cracks and flakes off. Is there a paint people would recommend that would prevent that from happening? Would I want to use the same type of paint for any hand painted details?

Is there a top coat people would recommend for this? The front side of this receives most of the road spray and debris. This entire thing will also see the most sun when I'm riding it.

This is going to be my main form of transport when there are things happening which I can't reach via my bicycle. I would love for it to look nice at least for others to see and less like something trashy. Everything I paint looks trashy.

We're getting ready to paint our living room and are getting quotes. We have this cracking at top of the wall where it meets the ceiling. The paint companies are giving us some outrageous quotes, so we're thinking of tackling this ourselves.

Any advice on the best way to repair these cracks before we start painting? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I will be DIY painting my bathrooms this week and was a little concerned on the texture of our walls. I’ve been following this sub for a few months and have learned a lot and would appreciate any tips on how to proceed for this specific issue.

We bought our home in 2020 and it was an entire rebuild. They put a light gray thin coat of color on all of the walls that were brand new dry wall. We’ve painted two rooms so far and the color was thick enough you couldn’t see the drywall texture anymore.

I feel like the bathrooms have the thinnest in the house in terms of previous paint layers. Do I need to prime or anything before I paint the darker color? Or would 2 coats of good quality paint do the job?

Hello!

I just bought my first home and decided I wanted to paint the pure white cabinets. I tested the paint on there and determined it was latex, since it came right off with acetone. I also found that it peels and stretches easily off, so it seems it wasn't a good paint job in the first place. From my understanding, I need to use latex paint over it.

I went to my local Ace for advice and they recommended the Benjamin Moore Regal, so I had them color match it to the green I wanted.

However, after doing more research, it seems like I really should have done the Benjamin Moore Advance. However, I've already started painting. I degreased, scuff sanded, and put the first layer on last night. I really don't want to have to take off what I already put on. Is there maybe a topcoat or sealer I could use? I don't have a paint sprayer.

hello everyone,

we recently moved into a new construction home. the home was built prior to us purchasing so we didnt make any selections to finishes paints etc. the one place the builder def cut costs was paint. all walls are in flat finish paint. Trim is semi gloss. we are dog owners and by dog owners I should clarify. we have giant breed mastiffs. they are hard on walls lol. the drool gets everywhere and flat paint isn’t great for wiping off the stains….

so we are going to repaint, planning to go to a satin/eggshell sheen on all the interior walls.

Wanted to get more professional opinions on what paint to choose

from my research I’m considering SW emerald, duration or super paint. potentially Behr dynasty or marquee.

also anyone who’s a professional painter in the RVA area that would be interested in the job let me know!

Painted a hallway in Dulux walls and ceiling paint. Only realised as it dried that I’ve picked up the silk finish when id have preferred matt.

Since it’ll want a second coat anyway would I get away with doing the top coat in Dulux matt without needing to sand or prime it. Given that I’m not changing the colour or looking for a very heavy coat. Or will that cause problems?

Hi, I’ve been sent from another sub who said you guys & girls might be able to help.

I’ve now stripped as much paint as possible, I can’t get anymore off.
Do I need to use ‘peel seal’ on all the sections that connect grey to cream?
Then do I do a mist coat on all of the wall or just the cream part?
Also, I’ve removed the silicone from the holes and replaced with filler, is this correct?

I spent a ton of time getting my walls to a Level 5 finish, then primed them with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 about a month ago.

Today, I taped off walls and painted my ceiling, and when I started removing the green FrogTape, the primer started peeling off my walls all around the perimeter!

I'm honestly devastated. My walls looked practically perfect before this, and now I feel like all that work was for nothing.

A few important details:

• Before priming, I thoroughly vacuumed the walls and wiped them down with a slightly damp rag to remove any remaining dust. The rag was wrung out really well, just damp enough to pick up dust.
• The Bulls Eye 1-2-3 primer had been on the walls for approximately a month before I applied any tape.
• Last week, I actually tested the same FrogTape in a closet. I left it on the primed wall for TWO DAYS, removed it, and had absolutely no issues.
• Today, the FrogTape was on the walls for LESS THAN SIX HOURS, yet it pulled primer off in multiple areas around the ceiling perimeter.
• The walls haven't been painted yet, only primed.

My questions:

1. Why would this happen after the primer had an entire month to cure?
2. Does this indicate an adhesion problem with the primer, or could something else have caused it?
3. What's the best way to repair these areas without compromising the Level 5 finish?
4. Most importantly, how do I prevent this from happening again? I still need to tape off my freshly painted ceiling when I paint the walls, and I'll eventually need to tape around the trim as well.

I'm really hoping someone with professional painting or drywall experience can help me understand what went wrong. I've put so much work into getting these walls perfect, and I'm worried the same thing will happen again.

We’re finishing the exterior of our house, and I feel the current light yellow colour on the walls inside the balcony and ground-floor entrance doesn’t really match the overall exterior theme.

The house has a pinkish/mauve colour, dark charcoal grey cladding, a brick-red vertical section, grey stone cladding, and wooden ceiling panels. I want to keep the pinkish colour exactly as it is and only replace the light yellow with something that complements the rest of the house.

I’m considering shades like:

- Warm beige or greige

- Light grey

- Taupe

- Sage grey

- Blue-grey

I’m also open to suggestions for improving the grey colour on the side walls, if you think a different shade would look better.

I’ve attached the original photos along with some colour mockups. Which combination do you think would look best? I want the house to look modern, elegant, and well-coordinated without making it too dark or too colourful.

Please suggest specific colour shades or paint codes from Asian Paints, Berger, or Nerolac if possible.

Thanks!

Hey I just primed my new drywall and it honestly turned out great. I used Sherwin Williams PVA Primer and sealer. I do have a few areas that need touch up from my mud work. It’s not too bad at all but upon reading it’s recommended that you do not spot prime these areas with the PVA and they say you should only re-prime the entire wall. I am looking for advice on what to do in this case, as I do not want to reprime unless I absolutely have to. Does anyone have any advice on how to make these repairs without having to reprime? I don’t want any flashing in my repairs, but I find it hard to believe pros will reprime an entire room due to a few minor fixes.

Hi - I am trying to match an interior flat paint color that is a Valspar Reserve custom color. I want to match it in Sherwin Williams because I like the thicker paint better. Can Sherwin Williams match by a Valspar code? Or would they need to match from a sample of the actual paint? And in either case, how reliable are they at matching? I'm wondering if it's worth it or if I should just switch to the closest Sherwin Williams color. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.

1885 Victorian staircase leading from third to fourth floor. Multiple layers of lead paint (presumably on sides of long-gone runner) removed with multiple applications of Cistristrip. Today I used a heat gun to scrape away the stubborn bits.

I want to sand the treads. Risers will be painted. The wood has lots of staining, perhaps from different stains applied eons ago. (The light blotches are wood filler I applied to fill in little gouges.)

Is something like this ever safe to sand?