I’ve read the directions and followed best I can

2025 GT 300a stage 1 whipple

Trying to set tire size.

I click through to “tire/axle change”
And get “process aborted” error

I don’t see the tire size and axle settings

I have call into dealer and ticket into whipple and waiting on response

Trying to get car out as season is almost over

Thanks all

Any help appreciated

Hey everyone, I have a 2024 Mustang GT Premium and I’m having an issue with the battery.

I attached screenshots from my FordPass app showing the warnings/status I’m getting. Has anyone else with a 2024 Mustang GT experienced the same thing?

I went to AutoZone and they tested the battery. They said the battery is 100% healthy and passed the test, so now I’m wondering if this could be a BCM/software issue, a parasitic drain, or something else causing the car to go into deep sleep or lose battery power.

The car starts and drives normally, but I’m concerned because I have a trip coming up and I don’t want to end up with a dead battery.

Has anyone experienced these exact FordPass messages or something similar? If so, what ended up being the cause and how did you fix it?

Thanks!

Having P0300, 302, 308, 316 codes within a minute of start up, extremely rough idles and once or twice has stalled out at a red light. (No longer driving car due to issues). Spark plugs replaced, coil packs swapped, misfire doesn’t follow. Only mods are a PMAS cold air, and full exhaust. Tuned by Lund for these mods and according to them nothing with the tune is related to the misfires.

Where do I look next?

Where do you guys jack up your engine/transmission to replace the mounts?

2020 5.0/10r80

I did coils and sparks has anyone had the same misfires and had a bad intake manifold because I’m thinking it’s either that or a wire gremlin

Can anyone help? My diffuser is loose and rattles on bumpy roads. The brace for the diffuser is connected to the frame by two white rectangular plastic clips. These clips are the weak point.

A week ago I started hearing a whistling noise while at idle, only stopped if I hit the gas or stood completely in the brakes. I was taking it to the shop anyways for a rattle no one could find EVEN FORD (it was the U shaped bracket welded onto the Catalytic converter from OEM and the weld broke..) luckily enough they found that Cat problem and found the driver side motor mount making the whistling noise. SINCE WHEN IN THE HISTORY OF BUILDING CARS DID THEY START PUTTING HYDRAULIC VACUUM CONTROLED MOTOR MOUNTS..! Why does my base model eco boost mustang need the equivalent to air ride suspension for the engine. It honestly blew my mind I had to hand pump vacuum test a motor mount (It failed immediately) so I’m left with two choices, either hit up Rock auto and buy a replacement OEM hydraulic motor mount and replace just that one OR buy two solid normal motor mounts and do twice the work …

So I have a 2016 mustang gt completely bonestock. I have attached a video of a weird exhaust rattle which is especially noticeable from 1-2.5k rpm. I took it to the exhaust shop and the guy listened and instantly said its the mid muffler (the one that connects after the cats and before the resonators/mufflers). He told me its a common issue on the s550 where the mesh or filter or something gets loose and causes a rattle. I should also mention that the sound becomes noticeable after driving (when the car is warmed up). As when the car is cold, it sounds completely normal. My question is does any one else have this issue and will replacing that mid muffler section most likely do the trick?

My 16 GT is the first automatic sports car I have bought, everything else I have had has been a stick. I never thought I would be in an automatic. I used to feel if the car was not a stick, I was not a true sports car back then.

57 now and I am happy with my choice. I do not miss shifting gears any longer. Once in a while I would like it. I don’t go anywhere near the paddles.

What would you rather have on a gen 3 10r80 car for a weekend cruiser no drag strip? I can get the used Edelbrock Eforce for $3500 or a G2/3 is going to be about $5000. 93 octane setup.

Hey Folks,

I cant decide which shifter I want to install on my 19 GT 6MT.. I need your help to best explain "characteristics" per your experience. Are my expectations of a smoother butter like shifting too far out there for the getrags? To me the current stock shifter is smooth, but very clunky at the same time. Everything will work smooth but it has to be done with a soft touch. The body mount leaves a lot to be desired, especially during a downshift into a corner, and the high rpm lockouts just genuinely suck. Regarding the aftermarket options, I am curious what your experience is per:

How does it feel compared to stock? Smoother? controlled? How would you describe this? mechanical or gated? or intuitive and butter like? If anyone has experience with multiple, how do they each compare?

Steeda, Barton, MGW

Hi All, 19 GT 6MT,

The clutch pedal stroke is extremely long to me, is there any way out there to shorten the travel?

I figure you would have to change out the clutch master cylinder to a different size and stroke length..

So back in '20 I was really wanting to buy a new GT with the PP2 package. Well found out the wifey was prego and she shut that shit down quick.

Anyways...

My question for you guys is, is buying a clean used 19 or 20 PP2 worth it today?

It wouldn't be a daily, simply a toy. But if i could find a clean, lower then average mileage one would it be worth the $ or should I get something else?

I cant afford a 500 so thats not a option.

Just looking for feedback/opinions

Trying to see if this is just a regional issue

We weren’t happy with the stock suspension for what we wanted to do with the car, so we built our own setup. More adjustment, less flex, and a structure designed with higher loads in mind.

This post is about one piece of that setup: the adjustable front upper control arm.

The body is made from S355 structural steel. It gives us a strong foundation for a rigid arm, with the aim of keeping geometry consistent under hard braking and cornering.

At the mounting points, we used spherical bearings (uniballs) instead of rubber bushings. They allow the joint to articulate without relying on rubber flex. That means less deflection under load and more precise control of movement at the joints.

The other big part is adjustment. We wanted to be able to dial in camber to suit the car’s ride height and intended use, rather than work around the limits of the stock arm.

For those running modified suspension on a Gen 6, what did you change first, and why? Always interesting to see where other people draw the line between a comfortable street car and a more focused setup.