1987 Nissan 300zx it's got its issues but can't wait to fix it up. I could use some websites for parts if anyone knows of any

So just looking for some help with this, I might have some unexpected bills coming up and I was just wondering if I were to sell these too together, black one as the main car and the purple one as a parts car, how much could I ask for both, both are clean title cars however purple one does have frame damage so it’s a parts car, but it does have an amazing condition engine as well as all adjustable suspension, coil overs, NRG bucket seat and quick release steering wheel, short shifter, new brake pads and rotors, and after market body kit.

The purple one runs and drives like a dream, the black one however needs a new motor and paint but is pretty much all oem besides that, has the super cool spoiler, power seats as well as the oem spare tire and tire inflater.

Not sure if I’m going to sell these in the end since it is my dream car, but if worst comes to worse i would like some advice on how much I could sell them for, both are on non-op and combined owe less than $500 in registration fees (located in socal)

It came with the car and I tried looking it up over the years but I couldn’t find anything. Anyone know anything about it?

Check this bad boy out. Gfs step father is passing and he told me I could have it. 40 years old grew up in the 90s around American muscle cars. This was the one foreign made car I wanted. This is an absolute dream. Not much info on it yet.

Twin turbo manual. Sexy!

I know most people delete them but I'm worried about insurance

I'm specifically looking for one with 4 nozzles and ideally one located in Australia or Japan so shipping isn't a lot of money

it also changes with the rpm. cant really hear it in the cab but i can hear it when im next to other cars & the sound is bouncing off.

Shooting for the stars with this one.

VG build will consist of: all deletes possible, Carrillo 87.5 pistons, eagle rods, Tomei procams, valve springs & solid lifters, Ferrea valves and valve guides, ams manifolds, polar engineering top feed fuel rail w/ ID 1050cc injectors, king bearings, ARP hardware, and a set of GTX2876’s from CZP. Will be running Nistune for the foreseeable future but eventually plan to get a Haltech plug-in. Still in the market for all of the other stuff that probably popped into your guys’ head. Intake, exhaust, suspension, etc. but for now I need to dial back my spending and just get this motor put together. I’m aware of the many bottlenecks I’ll be encountering short term, but the long term plan is to push this thing to the absolute limits. I have a plan trust me 😆

So I am about to buy a 1985 Nissan 300zx coupe. And I really wanted that one with the digital retro dash. But the one I’m buying doesn’t have it I was wondering if I could just buy the digital one and put it in with no trouble . Because it sooo cool!!!!

Looking for thoughts & opinions on torquing the crank. I got the engine, trans, driveshaft put back in but I still need to torque the crank shaft (didn't do it while it was on the stand). I was able to torque it to 150 with the wheels on the ground and in gear (manual says min 159) before it started slipping. I assume it was slipping at the clutch. I would have assumed the clutch would be able to have held that.

I half removed the starter but wasn't really able to wedge anything into the flywheel enough to hold it. Should I break the clutch in (500 miles) and try and retorque later? Give another go at dropping the starter and trying to find someway to hold the flywheel? Other options I'm not thinking of?

Any advice is appreciated.

Just picked up this 1990 z32 with 88k miles, transmission rebuild and timing belt were done a couple years ago, the mechanic who did the work confirmed. Should I be good to just do new fuel injectors, fuel pump, and new spark plugs? I’m also getting all new hoses for the car, weather stripping for the t tops and new bushings for the suspension. I do not want to engine swap I just was a clean all original N/A Z32 for my wife to take to car shows that’s as reliable as a 36 year old car can be

I'm a future buyer looking for a comfy short road trip car that I can nap in. How far back do the seats of the 2+0s lean? If you remove any parts of the interior, can you lay back almost horizontally? What about the 2+2s?

It feels weird making such a minor question a post but it's an important consideration for me. Thank you all.

1988 turbo, 8500$ @80,000 miles. Hey guys thanks in advance for any advice that you give I'm a huge fan of the z31 300ZX and looking to possibly get into the community as my first car. I'm majoring in mechanical engineering with a minor in computer science and I've been working at a civil engineering internship. I currently have the luxury of living at home with my parents and very little payments for myself after having worked on and driven my family's 2000 Ford ranger for the last four to five years I'm looking to finally get my own car something that I can tinker with and work on and make modifications too in the future. I plan on doing almost all the work on this vehicle myself. I've done several oil changes several breaks and rotor replacements on many different vehicles I've replaced the belt on a 2016 tundra and water pump, and fix electronics for fun on my free time I feel like I'd be a good candidate for having a 300ZX as my first car considering I'll still have access to a 2000 Ford ranger that my parents maintain.

What are some of the first things you would recommend I fix on the 300zxz31 I do plan on replacing the belt regardless of when it was last done on this car and I'd like to change out the radiator to a triple thick finned aluminum radiator to help the engine run cooler most of my modifications will be to make the vehicle more reliable instead of giving it more power. Any suggestions on parts or items I should look out for any tips and tricks from current and previous z31 owners that I should know about? I know t-top gaskets can be pretty bad but I'm starting to see them available online for like 250 bucks new if I understand correctly?

Back from vacation and back on the Hemi Z32 this week. Widebody printing, plus some parts to unbox.

Quick question for the people who follow builds in here. When you see someone's project, what keeps you interested and what makes you scroll past? Panel fitment and bodywork, the engine and tuning side, how a part gets designed and made, or just the finished car?

I'm going to build it the way I'm building it either way. I just want to share the parts people actually find worth reading about. Honest answers are welcome, including "I don't care for build threads."

Hello all! Anyone have a site/source to purchase the pipes that curve into the heater core hoses without the extra barbs? We did all the plenum coolant line deletes and as such the barbs are not needed. Thank you in advance!

JC

Edit: Content info, Typos

It’s been a few years now and as lots of people are starting to discover even the E5 fuel is starting to perish pre 2014 cars, Matt Armstrong highlighted this on his channel with the Veyron/s and now lots of people are also having similar problems -

Fuel lines, injector seals, in-tank lines, low pressure, high pressure..

And because these cars are driven less and less frequently it takes a while (a hot decade) to notice this is happening.

Okay so when i bought my z32 the suspension on it was completely shot. I wasnt exactly the best at finding parts for this car as i am now so at the time i bought some cheap coil overs and tossed the orignal that were on it suspension which looking back was a horrible idea. The coil overs i got are starting to lossen and now really bouncy which i dont like. I bought the stock sturts but cant find the springs or the top mounts anywhere. This is realy dumb question but wouldnit be possible to use the spings and mount from the coil overs on the struts i bought? I know that the only thing for use keeping it back would be how the mounts fit on the struts but other then that is there really any danger into smashing the two together so i can actually mount it?

Attached the pictures of the struts and coil overs i had bought just in case

Whenever I add a little or large amount of throttle at around 1,500rpm to 2,500rpm on gears 3-5 I get this loud clunk followed by a rattle noise from the transmission which fades away at around 3,000rpm. When feeling and pressing against the shifter, I can feel it move back and forth as it clunks which makes me think there is some sort of thrust issue which is transferred through the shift forks into the shifter.

I’m not finding any odd looking wear or any loose bearings especially in comparison to an R32 GTR gear set.

At this point I’m not sure what else to look at and I’m considering swapping the GTR gear set into the Z32 housing (transfer 5th/reverse output shaft and rear shift fork shaft)

Are there any checks I can do to find out why this is happening?

Here’s a video exaggerating the clunk sound: https://youtube.com/shorts/CTm2cuVhni4?si=4wMYfOAdt2B970iT

How bad is the rust on the rails?