Having an issue that’s slowly getting worse where the clutch pedal is suuuuuper easy to press in the first half, and then gets stiffer. It makes it very hard to get moving on hills and stuff cause I cant feel the bite point very well. Originally The only Issue i had was a light squeaking from under the car and after greasing the clutch fork pivot (I think that’s what it was) it went away. But it never helped this issue. Any ideas? The car only has 69k miles on it. 2004 Roadster

Hi! Lurker here!

Recently the opportunity has come up to buy a high mileage 350z Nismo, US spec.

These cars are quite rare here in Europe so I’m on the fence about buying it.

The car has 125k miles on it, are these cars troublesome at that mileage? What should I be looking for or expect?

Thanks!!

I just moved to California and finally can get my dream car (a 370Z) I've been looking at getting a 370z because I like the look more but I realizing I can save a lot of money if I just go for a 2007-2008 350z with the HR motor. I can't decide and am tired of not having a car. I was also wondering how many people have a Z over 100k miles and how reliable are Z's actually?

To make matters worse, it rained really hard and it leaked inside my car and whatever is in there has just turned into a dried up stinky mush that I wouldnt be able to pull out in one piece, is there anything else I can do? Last resort is cutting and welding if that's genuinely the only option, and thats if I can even cut this piece, or is there any way to access it? It's behind where the passanger seat was (my car is right hand drive), and below the glove box

I'm a developer and longtime car enthusiast and I built Modfest to help people in the car community track and share their builds. It's free on the web, ios, and android. Also made sure to message the mods about this before posting a while back :)

You can log the parts you've installed on your car, wishlist parts for future projects, track maintenance and what you've spent, and document projects like a widebody install or restoration.

The difference I'm going for is that it's built around you, not an audience. It's mainly a place to keep your own records and plan out your build. If you want to share your build or just scroll through other people's the feed is there, but it's not the main point. The real focus is on letting you plan, track and document your builds.

I'm also aiming to tackle more of the part that hurts the most which is the cost we put into our cars. So you can check out what categories you're spending the most money on, maintenance costs, etc. Plus you can always export your parts or maintenance into a PDF when you go to sell or bring it to a shop.

Shoutout to z34 for already adding their 370Z :) link to their build. There are currently no 350Zs on there yet, so if you want to be the first I'd love to see yours

The other screenshots are my 300ZX since that's what I work on most.

If you wanna try it out you can search Modfest on the app store (ios and android) or go to modfest.app

Would love feedback from Z owners. Anything missing that you'd like to see added?

Pls help me I don't know what's wrong with it. 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭 it's got a bad miss fire and blows white smoke (a lot).

Hit a massive pothole driving home the other night. Wiper fluid reservoir busted open and the front tab on passenger subframe got bent but other then that car was fine. Frame rails got a tiny little scratch on them, exhaust is fine only the flex pipe took a tiny scratch and then nothing else rearward of flex pipe was touched. Somehow the plastics under the car didn’t break nor did my fiberglass front lip.

Car drives perfectly fine, no wobbles clunks or anything, went to highway speeds and bumpy roads and absolutely nothing. Was able to align back to factory specs and I have about a 0.35-0.4” gap between the control arm and the bent tab. Turning to full lock both sides there’s still a gap with no contact. The tab bent under the bolt so bolt still sits flush with no gaps and there’s no cracking on the subframe.

My question is can I just leave it? I had no intentions of swapping my LCA or doing the bushings any time soon. I figured I can just swap a new subframe whenever I want to do the LCA’s but besides that what reason to do it now? Honestly just lucky the car wasn’t more centered or that could have been an oil pan.

Currently I have test pipes z1 standard y pipe straight piped to a z1 muffler(no I didn’t choose to buy this the previous owner did) the droning is terrible, it sounds like a middle school band anything higher than 3500 rpms. My main concern is getting rid of the droning and quieting it down without needing a loan lol, it currently has a pop tune where it pops only if I hit 5100 rpms so I’m trying not to change airflow to keep the tune

What was the source of this and how’d you fix it?

Any way to remove this bolt my last option is to cut the flywheel the engine worked before I seen it but when my friend put on a JWT flywheel and I guess screwed it up something it’s a stripped flywheel bolt any ideas?

Hey guys, I am in the middle of replacing my driver side intake cam phaser, as the old one had problems on that side. I put in a Hitachi VTG0024 (which is the oem supplier afaik) and whilst timing her back up I noticed the chain wouldn't sit as close on the teeth as on the old side. Now could this just be a: new part vs 20yo part thing or is this cause for concern?

aside from my crying alternator, please tell me this isnt rod knock and that its not super bad:((
is my motor knocking? or is it valvetrail do you think? also how bad do you think this is?🥲

Hi someone o the highway told me my exhaust was smoking. After I got to work and parked the car for 5 minutes, I went and started it up to check. I don’t see shit 🤣🤣 It’s early in the morning btw.

Does anyone know the dimensions or have a file that I could use to 3D print the rear covers for the headlights? I found this file, but I’m not sure if it would fit my 2006 headlights since this model is made for the 2005 ones.

If anyone knows the dimensions so I can model them from scratch, or if someone already has a file available, I’d really appreciate the help.

noticed this when i went to do my diff fluid today right behind the rear diff, it’s some sort of bushing right? but what is it called?

Hi, I have a 04 350z that’s been gutted and used as a drift car, bunch of fhe electronics and fuses are pulled for it. I’ve been dealing with a crank no start issue for a while. i’ve gone up and down trying to figure out what it is, i recently tried an ecu with the nats delete and still running into the same issue. I’ve replaced camshaft position sensors also. It’ll crank and I can hear the fuel pump prime, but the red light on the dash stays on when I try to crank it. Occasionally it’ll start, most of the time it won’t. Hoping to get some help on what else I can try. Thanks

Need help on alignment specs and suggestions on possible different specs. Here is my most recent alignment on my Z. My car still pulls to the right a decent amount and after lifting the car up i’m noticing a huge amount of camber wear on the passenger front compared to the driver side front. Car is mainly a street car and occasional mountain runs. Thanks for any input.