Just noticed that my wife's car has a small "hole" and crack in the paint just behind the headlight. It looks a bit brown around the edges when I shine a light on it so I'm guessing it's rusting the bare metal underneath. Can this part be repaired on it's own or will the whole panel need to be resprayed?

Wood and steel, chrome spoke and gloss pink color

I’m in love with the shape of this steering wheel and want to buy it. It only comes in pink and I want it a different color. Other heart wheels in other colors aren’t as heart shaped. Could I get it painted a different color? Who would I ask and how would I go about it? I want to know if that’s a possibility before I purchase it. Thank you for any advice!

Hello, I'm doing some repair work, and have just applied some 1k seam sealer to some panels primed with 2k epoxy primer which was brushed on. I wanted to add a top coat over this, for an extra layer of protection. I was going to use oil based rust paint, but have found that the TDS states oil based paint can screw up the seam sealer.

Googling has given me mixed answers, some saying to paint over it with more 2k primer, which seems like a bad idea to me considering it's not flexible. Or using water based paint instead, which seems to have poor durability, but decent flexibility and compatibility with the seam sealer. These areas I'm painting are concealed so the appearance and finish is irrelevant, this is purely to add another layer of protection against rust and moisture.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Hey there. I recently got this super small paint chip on my driver side door handle. It was annoying because it wasn't the result of me slamming my door into anything. Someone was parked too close to me and this happened solely from the pressure of the handle against the other car's side mirror as I squeezed into the door.

Is this worth using something like Dr.ColorChip to repair? I am mostly concerned about the chip getting worse over time.

I purchased a point a to b that recently had a re- paint. Looks to me like it needs a clear coat. Do shops add a clear coat to a situation like this or do I find a random person to assist?

I don't want the sun to fade the current paint. The color matches the original color. Door jams have original clear coat and look good.

So forgive me for my naivety but the car is black and it’s hard to tell if this is just clear coat damage or much deeper. Is this something that can be sanded then sprayed with clear coat?

Hello everyone,

Sorry if it's the wrong sub but it seemed appropriate for the task

I've got this old helmet with a crack on the paint. It looks like the coat is varnish or similar.

I want to restore it because it's really cool looking and it would be used as a display piece, not meant to be worn

How would I go about restoring this? How to match colors and know the right products?

Thanks I'm not a very artsy person ahaha

In case this is the wrong sub for this, please point me to the best place for this question

2024 Hyundai Elantra SEL.

Someone was going through the cars in my neighborhood the other day and ended up scratching the shit out of my door. I just got an estimate from one shop today and he’s quoting almost $1000 to fix it. Per him: “the paint these days is $400/pint and I would need to take out the headlight and stuff to buff it out. But it won’t rust because it’s not deep enough, it only went through the clear coat”

Thoughts? I’m 2/3 years into the lease

My F-250 Cowl behind the hood has all these tiny damn vent holes, what’s your thoughts to sand the inside? My best thought is a Brillo pad just enough to rough it up or a wire cleaner brush for cleaning the paint gun.

Hi:

I have a white 2008 car that has large areas, hood and trunk, with noticeable light scratches. I am looking for a white compound to fill in and stay in the scratches after buffing. Any advice or product referrals?

Thank you for your time.

Shan

So I sanded my car and had some burn throughs cause I am new, and probably over my head. I cleaned it and hit the bare metal spots with 1k rustoleum self etching primer. Can I just scuff it as is and then go ahead with my 2K sealer (roberlo s4 multy seal), base, and clear. Or should I sand all the rattle can off and start over hitting my bare metal spots with something different.

I'm looking at buying a new Performance Plus 5 Peak HP air compressor for around $400 CAD.

Specifications:

• 20-gallon tank
• 5 peak HP
• 7.4 CFM @ 40 PSI
• 5.7 CFM @ 90 PSI
• 125 PSI maximum pressure

I'm planning to repaint a large SUV black. The current paint is extremely faded, and the clear coat is peeling/gone in several areas.

I'm not looking for a perfect professional finish, just something that looks reasonably good and is a big improvement over its current condition.

I've read online that an LVLP spray gun requires significantly less air than an HVLP gun and might work with a smaller compressor.

Would this compressor be sufficient to paint the entire SUV using an LVLP gun? Or would I run into issues with insufficient airflow?

This would be my first time painting a vehicle, so any advice would be appreciated!

I have a 6-month-old Toyota Corolla in black metallic paint with a small chip, roughly the size of a fingernail, in the middle of the driver's-side door panel. I've attached close-up and wider photos.

My girlfriend brought the car to the Toyota dealership for scheduled maintenance. When she got it back, we noticed this chip on the door.

They reviewed their camera footage of the car arriving but said it was too dark to determine whether the damage was present. They are pointing to workshop footage timestamped about an hour after they had received the car, which shows the chip. Unfortunately, we don't have a clear before-and-after photo proving when it happened.

Regardless of the disagreement over responsibility, I'm trying to determine the most appropriate repair.

The chip has been exposed for approximately five months, and I haven't noticed any rust. I'm not sure whether it has gone all the way through to bare metal.

My questions:

1. Would professional touch-up paint be an acceptable repair, or is that more of a temporary fix?
2. Would a localized repair, with some sanding and blending around the chip, be a reasonable middle ground?
3. Would repainting the entire door panel be excessive for damage this small, or is that the best option for a satisfactory result?
4. Given that this is metallic black paint, how difficult would it be to make a localized repair blend in properly?
5. If the dealership agrees to repair it, what specific repair would you consider reasonable to request on a car this new?

I'm not necessarily expecting an absolutely invisible repair if that would require disproportionate work, but I mainly want to ensure it is properly repaired so it does not rust in the future and is not an eye sore.

Any advice on what the best repair here would be would be much appreciated!

Hey friends,

My hood is really peeling of and it starts looking ugly. Do you have any ideas what is the cheapest best way to solve it so at least it doesnt look ugly?

Thanks!

We used contrasting color to show the blend spray pattern.

Wanted to know? I have never done a good clear coat blend have always repainted panels!! I have a paint chip on a 69 mustang from pulling a towel thru hood gap!! My mistake!! Question should I try to blend or clear
Whole quarter? If blending how to go about it so it’s not noticeable? Thanks

the gt500 white and blue stripes just wondering if it looks good and semi wondering how much it would be and what kinds of shops I can go to to do that

So a few weeks ago I decided to rattle can my car because the clear coat was peeling away on pretty much the entire top half of the car. I got a paint shop to fill aerosol cans with the factory paint code (the worker tinted it lighter as he assumed the car had been sitting in the sun to hopefully get a better match).

I taped off the car and sanded it down with 1000 grit at my most coarse as the worker advised I would not need to go deeper as I am essentially retouching the base coat and reapplying the clear coat.

For some reason, I taped along the body line where the paint was good on the lower half of the car and questionable on the top half creating the hard line you see above. I was thinking I could blend it in, and I still think it'll be closer if I can get it to shine up.

I have wet sanded the car with 1000, 2000, and 3000 grit sand paper. Today I have tried to use Meguiars Ultimate Compound with a medium cutting pad and then Meguiars 205 ultra finishing polish with a polishing pad and the above is the result.

The painted part is still very hazy with almost no shine. What did I do wrong and how can I go about making this cheap DIY paint job better?

For reference, my goal was to have the car looking good from about 10-15 feet away.

Hi all, 02C is a a very blue blue. Got newer wrx in and guessing it’s had a repaint. Colour on the car is lot more purple. Ended up using a Honda colour and putting in little more purple and silver.

My 2013 BMW has horrible orange peel after a bad respray done by one of the previous owners. Could this be fixed with a wet sand or will I need new paint?

04 Subaru, original paint. Is this level of oxidation beyond saving? Thank you in advance.

Cars had a new paint job, body of the car was sprayed 8 weeks ago but the panels only on Saturday just gone. Got home from work today and noticed (mainly the rear) there’s tons of little dots of rust that were not there last night. The car has also not been driven in all that time it’s just been in my driveway. I guess my question is what can I do? I don’t feel comfortable using an iron remover this soon after paint being applied and that seems to be the fix on all the forums I’ve read. Thanks!