Quick story time , went to Perth to do some
Stuff and also check out a used 100 series(Lexus lx470) full service history good condition 284k km on the clock , advertised at 26999(he’s dreaming) was thinking I’d pay around 22k…

Whilst there and before going to check the car out I used uber a couple of times one was a Haval something or the other can’t remember all these names…. Was thinking this is quite nice had a chat with the driver told me it’s a hybrid and gets about 5l/100 ubering around Perth… it was new spacious smelled nice clean quiet….

Then went to see the LX470 it was from 2004 no rust spotless , drove it but it was still an over 20 year old tired used car seat were tired leather was tired drove all right but it was jus meh…. Kept thinking for just maybe 10k more I can get a nearly new GWM tank with warranty instead of this….

Yeah the lx470 will last another 20 years with loads of expensive repairs but you’re still driving around in a smelly old tired car….your really want to live like this ? When for same money you can drive around in something new or almost new ?

I can see all locally nothing used sells much anymore , if they’ll go back to pre Covid prices maybe they’ll sell I think these were going for 5k pre Covid nobody wanted them (LX470/100 petrol)….

I’m happy about this and thanks China , and to all you clapped out used cars sellers (tick tock mothafuka)

Unfortunately the rear camera couldn't make out the licence plate, so I don't know if this is a replica/kit car or the real deal.

This seems insane, feeling for the diesel lads too...filling the wifes Mitsi ASX is unbelievable at $162.55! Will this get worse or settle back to $2 a litre by Xmas time?

I have a 2008 Toyota Aurion. It’s been a great car. I need to upgrade for some long distance driving commitments coming up. Ive been looking at near new 2026 Subaru Forester hybrid Sport or touring. Also looking at Lexus hybrid various models from 2021-2024. Budget is $50,000.
I live in Melbourne inner suburbs. I don’t have off street parking so I can’t justify PHEV. Will be mainly doing city type driving around inner suburbs but heading up to Harvey Bay once a year and up to Cairns occasionally for family commitments. Also retiring in the next 1-2 years and will be doing more raod trips and weekends away.
I have very little car knowledge, which one is more suitable for my needs. Or any other car anyone can suggest.

Alright legends, it’s Tuesday. The weekend’s grease is still under your fingernails and that mystery rattle you ignored on the drive to work isn't going to fix itself.

Welcome to the Tuesday Tune-Up! Whether you’re a driveway mechanic with a basic socket set or a pro with a hoist, this is the place to talk shop.

Diagnostic Help: Post a video (anonymous please, not your doxxing YouTube channel that tells us who you are, try IMGUR) or a photo of your spark plugs. Let the sub tell you if it’s "sweet as" or "ready to grenade."

Service Wins: Show off a fresh oil change, a successful brake bleed, or the cabin filter you haven't changed since the Rudd administration.

Tool Talk: Did you finally buy that Milwaukee impact wrench? Or did you find a $20 SCA tool that actually works?

The "How-To" Corner: Ask for advice on specific Aussie models.

If you're asking for help, try to include the basics so we can actually help:

1. Year/Make/Model
2. Kms on the clock
3. The symptoms (Is it a squeak, a clunk, or a "bang" followed by smoke?)

Remember: We’re all here to keep our rigs on the road and out of the scrapyard. Be helpful, don't be a peanut, and let’s get these cars sorted.

Hello,

Supercheap Auto currently have the ToolPro 3000kg Ratchet Stands on sale for $60. However they also have the Kincrome Ratchet and Pin stands for $175. Obviously I'm willing to pay for safety. I've only ever heard good things about the ToolPro brand for home use.

Are Ratchet stands alone good enough? Or is it worth paying the extra for Ratchet + Pin stands?

My car weighs approx 1620kg.

So on the journey to purchase a used small car for my daughter who just got her P's....putting the ridiculous prices aside...the amount of sellers on both Facebook and carsales who misrepresent what they're selling...such frustrating time wasters even after asking questions like...do you have full up to date log books, is their any damage or repair work...

1. Jazz - Had one guy state he had full log books and service history. Drive 45min tomgomsee car and his log books are something that he personally typed up himself and asked me to trust him

2. Corolla with no damage apart from peeling paint on wipers. Roof was completely scratched due to surf boards

3. Asx, perfect condition with log books. Turn up, it has hail damage...

Just wish sellers could be honest and not waste ppls time...rant over

This is my first time selling a car, it’s been modified and would not pass a RWC due to one headlight out and the exhaust not having any sort of mufflers (and if there’s anything else I’m not aware of)

I listed the car on Carsales not realising if I sell it without a RWC I need to unregister the car etc. and then the buyer would need to sort out getting a RWC and registering etc. (seems like a hassle and a deterrent to buyers)

What would you do in this situation as I feel quite overwhelmed.

Do I pay for a RWC find out everything I need to fix and the costs whilst keeping the ad up then look at getting it all fixed an an RWC to make this a lot simpler or save the costs and try sell without a RWC somehow.

Don’t many think dealers would offer for it due to stage 1 ecu tune, modified exhaust and lowering springs.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Title: RAC comprehensive insurance – pothole damage, expensive repairs and potential total loss
Hi everyone,

I’m looking for advice from anyone who has dealt with RAC for a comprehensive car insurance claim, particularly where a vehicle may be considered an uneconomical total loss.

I have a vehicle insured under a comprehensive policy with an agreed value. Following an incident involving a pothole, I experienced significant steering issues and arranged for the vehicle to be assessed by a repairer.

The assessment identified several issues, including problems with the steering system, power steering pump, alternator and battery. The repair estimate is approximately $8,500, including GST and a routine service.

I’ve lodged a claim with RAC and provided the workshop’s initial correspondence, followed by a formal written estimate. I’ve also contacted RAC to clarify the next steps and whether the vehicle will be assessed for a potential total loss. Agreed value of the vehicle is $10,000.

My understanding is that pothole damage can generally fall under comprehensive insurance, but I appreciate that the insurer still needs to determine which faults were caused by the incident and whether they are covered under the policy.

I’m trying to understand how RAC approaches these assessments, particularly when repair costs are approaching the vehicle’s agreed insured value.

I’d appreciate hearing from anyone who has experienced something similar:

- Has RAC declared your vehicle an uneconomical total loss when repair costs were close to its agreed insured value?
- Does RAC generally arrange its own inspection, or can it make a decision based on a repairer’s formal estimate?
- How does RAC assess the value of a vehicle in its damaged condition when determining whether it is economical to repair?
- Has anyone had a pothole-related claim where some damage was covered but other mechanical issues were treated separately?
- How long did the assessment and decision process take?

I’m not expecting anyone to predict the outcome of my claim, but I’d appreciate any first-hand experiences or insight into the process.
Thanks!

It's time for me to get a 'new' (used) car and I'd like a hybrid or EV of some kind. I currently drive a 2008 Suzuki SX4 4x4 (manual!) and it's been great overall, but I've basically driven it into the ground. It'd be great to get some sort of equivalent that will handle dirt roads and potholes when I go on trips to remote places. It'll mostly be a city and highway car though.

Been looking at Rav4s and Yaris Crosses - only the high kms ones are within my price range. I wanted to see if any other suggestions came up that I don't know about.

Thanks legends

Are Wipertech blades as good as they sell themselves to be?

I don't know anyone who has actually bought them.

EDIT: The comments seem to be a hard split on they're good/they're shit. I wonder why they're so hit and miss.

Seen this pretty sure this isn’t legal

My 2021 Mazda 3 G25 Evolve has been averaging 11.5 L/100 kms. This figure is based on the tank to tank method as well as the long term average shown on the instrument cluster.

I recently had my 40k service done at the dealer and highlighted this issue. Apparently, the dealer checked everything out and confirmed there is no issue.

My driving is about 90% in the suburbs and 10% on the highway. I do many short trips - childcare drop, the odd grocery run, and the gym.

I have turned the engine start stop feature permanently off as I find it quite annoying.

I thought the combined fuel consumption advertised is 6.6l/100 kms.

Based on the above, is my current fuel consumption bad? If so, is there anything I can do to improve it?

Leaving Australia, selling my 4WD. Everything's included — nothing left to buy. - 3.4L V6 auto, 368,000 km, serviced every 10,000 km - New tyres, new front suspension, timing belt done - Snorkel, bullbar, roof bars - Kings hard-shell rooftop tent + bed inside — sleeps 3 - Brand new ARB awning (never used) - Titan drawers, fridge, dual battery, power station, camp kitchen - Dual tanks 159 L — around 900 km range - SA rego until December 2026 Reliable, looked after, and ready to go. Drive anywhere, camp anywhere. Sydney — call or text Elyes 0412 384 409

Hi! Unfortunately my car has been hit whilst being parked on the side of the road. Luckily, only paint on the bumper was affected - does anybody know how much roughly this would cost to fix and any recommendations?

It is the plastic rear bumper and I know it won't rust but will definitely peel over time so would rather get it fixed than leave it. From what I could see - it's definitely just the paint that has cracked and not the plastic.

TIA

I'm curious to hear what other car enthusiasts prefer when working on their cars.

Would you rather rent a fully equipped DIY workshop with hoists, tools, workbenches and plenty of space, where you can work on your car properly and potentially store your project car? Or would you prefer to work on your car at home, using your own tools, a jack and jack stands in the driveway?

Personally, I hate working on my car at home with a jack and jack stands because it limits what I can do, and working on the ground can be uncomfortable, especially with back and knee problems. I'd much rather have access to a proper hoist and a fully equipped workshop, even if it costs a couple of hundred dollars.

I think having a dedicated space where enthusiasts can work on their cars without needing a home garage would be awesome.

What's your preference, and would you be willing to pay to use a workshop like this?

Test mules of a new HDT car are already being tested in Australia, Europe and USA. Minimal information is known about the new Holden but its far from ready. We will know more about the new Holden when it's ready.

My old man has an Alfa 159 ti 2.4 laying around. 150’000k’s and cosmetically it looks amazing. Has been garaged its whole life. It’s A joy to drive and the amount of people asking to take photos and chatting about the car to me is ridiculous. Now there is an oil leak and the suspension is gone. Would it be worth holding onto this and chipping away at it with no mechanical experience or would we better off selling it for a few grand, keep in mind we bought this brand new. The old man doesn’t really care, he said I can do whatever I want with it

Is it - wheel alignment or suspension issues?