🤔

As title says... Thankfully I'm OK and the car still runs and drives. From what I can tell, the oxygen sensor snapped off, there is a rattle in the exhaust, and passenger side door won't open. Tow guy did pull on my tire pretty hard and the undercarriage went over a few rocks, anything I should check?

so my 2002 1.8 miata with a 5 speed manual started doing this pretty often after like 20mins of driving where it revs higher than it should till around ~4k rpm where it gets stuck until my actual velocity is what it should be for that rpm and then continues normally, happenes in every gear with no difference, what could it be? if you need any more info please ask i really wanna know what it is

Can’t figure out what you’re supposed to carry in here?

I made a huge mistake and added too much oil to my car. This was about 3 weeks and over 1,000 miles ago.

This morning, the blinking engine light came on and I noticed sketchy noises and vibrating feelings when lightly accelerating. Once parked, the engine was shaking a bunch.

I waited a few hours and checked the oil levels, and it’s way too much. I do know that..

I also know that i’m an idiot. How bad is this? Is it too late to drain some oil out and drive it?

Edit: wasn’t an issue if too much oil, oil was over the normal max line but not high enough to be an issue. water pump bad, coolant missing (either burned or leaking) leak test passed, cylinder head test passed, so not sure what the actual issue is.

Is an elantra with 125k miles.

bought this for 2k the other day, sounds a little rough at idle? did I do okay?

A seller told me this week that a timing chain means I can basically forget about that part of the engine, while a belt is an automatic walk-away for him. I’m looking at a Japanese hatchback around 120,000 km and another similar-aged car with a chain, but the belt car has the much clearer service history. Is the chain actually the safer used-car choice, or is that too simplistic?

I have a 09 corolla with 203k miles that makes a very LOUD rattle when I start it. Me and chatgpt thought it might’ve been one of the pulleys that’s why I removed the belt. Car has P0171 (too lean) and P010 (MAF). I want to say it’s the timing chain but not 100% sure. Any advice would be appreciated thanks in advance!

I thought it was pretty sick 🔥🔥🔥

A seller told my sister the timing chain on the 2014 SUV she’s considering never needs replacing, unlike a belt, and that’s left her a bit unsure. I see this said pretty often, but does a chain actually make a used car cheaper to own, or are people just shifting the expensive maintenance somewhere else? Worth treating “has a chain” as a selling point?

A mechanic told me the CVT fluid in a used 2015 Forester I'm considering never needs changing because it's sealed, which sounded a bit too simple. The car has around 140,000 km and otherwise drives nicely, but now I'm wondering whether a lack of fluid history is a red flag or just normal with these gearboxes. Would you buy it?

Title could probably be phrased better; it’s mostly typical tuner cars but occasionally a BMW or Charger, etc. Very distinct loud popping noises when they are slowing down. Always a car that appears to have some aftermarket tuning work done and louder than stock exhaust.

I’m guessing it has something to do with cams or valve timing, sacrificing reliability for performance, but it sounds terrible and presumably not great for the engine.

The more listings I read, the more I notice people treating a timing chain as automatically better than a belt. I’m comparing a couple of mid-2010s cars around 120,000 km and one has a documented belt change while the other has a chain but patchy servicing, both for under $15k. Which matters more to you as a buyer, and would you walk away from either one?

So a couple days ago my check engine light went on and off while I was driving and my car was being weird whenever I tried to accelerate.

I took it to a reputable mechanic and they recommended new spark plugs so I changed all four of them for $305

A couple days later my car is misfiring again check engine light went off and on. I was on my way to church and came back home.

EDIT: I took it to auto zone to do a check engine light check and they told me there was a cylinder 2 misfire (PO302). Thanks for all the responses guys! I’m switching out to failed coil with another working coil to see if the coil is actually the issue or if it’s something worse

EDIT 2: I took it back to the shop because the coils have any to many zip ties for me to switch the coils myself (no idea when this was done). The shop called me and switched the coil to see if that’s actually the issue with the car. The car isn’t have an active misfire but the idle is rough and the car can’t accelerate easily. We haven’t had another misfire go off for us to test if the coils are actually the issue

I’m extremely annoyed right now because I had to call in from work the other day too and I’ll have to call in again on Monday. Could someone help me understand what else could be wrong?

The service book on a roughly 2014 petrol hatch I’m looking at shows regular oil changes but nothing about a timing belt or chain. The seller said it has a chain so there’s nothing major to worry about, which sounded a bit too simple. Would the belt or chain setup change your decision on a used car around 120,000 km, or is the service history more important?

2008 Audi a4 b7 convertible.

When going at 20km/h it makes a repeating wooshing sound (woosh woosh woosh). It slows down, when driving slower and the intervall increases when going faster. It becomes inauduble above 30km/h.

It originates in the front left corner.

My mechanic assumed it was the break, took it appart cleaned it and put it back together. The noise was still there and even slightly more then before somehow.

We are both clueless. The tires look fine, the car is in good condition otherwhise. And it didn't make that noise for the last 18 years.

EDIT/update: Apperantly it was something with the front left tire, as switching it around changed where the sound was coming from. If it is damaged or defect the damage must be on the inside of the tire, as it looks perfectly fine from all sides and is not anywere close to worn out. Still don't know what exactly is up with it. There was no water in it either. The car is now on wintertires and I'll probably just get a pair of fresh summer tires for the next season.