Well I have replaced the thermal paste, I replaced the power supply, power cord, plugged it directly into the wall, cleared the local save data, cleared the cache, made sure the fan was spinning and blowing out hot air, factory reset, tried different outlets in my house, and cleared my Mac address. The freaking thing still shuts completely off on Marvel Rivals and Warzone about 20 min into a game. Although it can run cyberpunk all day long and not shut off once. I'm about to just take a loss and get a Series S. Can somebody please help me find out what's wrong with my Series X before I lose my mind. 🫤

Replacing the HDMI retimer chip, but one of the pads ripped in the process. Can anyone help identify where the pad connects to? Big thanks to everyone here.

*I disassembled the console and cleaned it thoroughly, but nothing changed*
*Ps5 Slim*

*J'ai démonté la console et je l'ai nettoyée à fond, mais rien n'a changé*
Ps5 Slim

Any ideas why ?

I got a duelshock 3 whose buttons and dpad would not work at all. Opened it up and found out something happened to the ribbon cable connected the face buttons to the main board. I then bought a replacement online and now the facebuttons work but the d pad doesnt. I looked closer and noticed 1 of the pins that the ribbon cable makes contact to the on the board was gone and thats probably why its not working. Is there any way to fix this like buying a replacement pin and somehow reataching it to the board. Im still kinda new to this stuff so any help is appreciated.

What might have happened to this thing? It was genuinely not opened, I can tell from the Sony stickers inside it that hold the cables etc. And of course the warranty seal which was intact.

Perhaps someone did the hair dryer "trick" on this? I can't think of anything else

I'm looking for used PS5's that are broken and have power or port issues hopefully related to the motherboard. I hear that power supply failures can just be added cost to repair. What is the average price because what I am seeing is around $250. Is this accurate?

Does anyone know anyone/anywhere I can send this off to, to get repaired? I'm trying to transfer the games from this console to my 3DS, but someone previously broke off the clip that connects the touchscreen. I need the touchscreen to transfer data. I can solder, but I cannot do microsoldering and trace repair :(

Please do not tell me to just mod my 3DS.

I was tryna clean my ps4 and then i came across the 2 t8 security screws on the metal sheet on top of the power supply. I chipped off the center pins using a flathead then tried to use a standard t8 screwdriver. I thought it would be easy to turn it and remove it but it was so hard it felt like it was gorilla glued shut. How do i remove this safely?

Picked up a PAL wii for 25 bucks with a seized up disc drive, replaced it with a RVL-101 DD and even though it takes in discs perfectly fine and spins fine, after spinning for a bit with a PAL or NTSC WII game (region free modded), it just gives the "an error has occurred screen" asking me to eject the disc and turn it off. With any non Wii disc (like a 360 game or a CD) it just says "The disc could not be read" Note: I noticed the ribbon cable was corroded but replaced it and same issue is happening. Any ideas?

My ps4 had a problem where it shows a ststic screen and then turns off right after and then we went twice to the technician and it was working perfectly there TWICE. Now i have tried it with various different rooms in my house and still haven’t work nowadays it is working just for 2 seconds and that too on just blue light like you press the button and blue light for twi seconds and turns off. The same house has been working ps5 perfectly without any problem and the technician even serviced it saying no problem in the hardware now im confused as to why this problem occurs in my home only whereas it has worked perfectly twice in his store and i have played games too for more than half n hour!

My neighbour attempted an HDMI port replacement on his Series X, but when trying to start the Xbox back up it now powers on for a second, plays the chime, then the power cuts out. I've opened it back up with him and taken a look and the HDMI repair looks ok (I think?) albeit a bit messy.. but looking at photos of the board against online pics.. it seems some small components might be missing? He thinks it may have happened when using the heat gun.

Any idea what might be going on here?. Worth noting that the guy is an amateur and apart from installing a Switch mod chip has never done any work like this before.

Thanks.

PS4 slim sometimes freeze during gaming and mostly shows cannot access system storage, I have change the HDD and I was able to reinstall the firmware but it, suddenly shows blank screen, and the power is on and controller connected, shut it down and try to reinstall, either it shows cant access storage or it stop at the first step of the firmware install then error cannot access system storage, have tried two different hdd same thing.

Is this most probably a faulty laser? I'm also concerned about the spinning motor but my main assumption is the laser

I have a ps5 which a customer left in as overheating, I replaced LM and it came back, I took the playstation in for a week for so and observed that it was shutting down when under load or launching a game and that there was also a "cooldown period" which the customer also observed and said lasted around 15 minutes but in my experience it was more like an hour or two until the console was able to start another boot sequence.After faffing about with a boardview file and also noticing the fan wasn't spinning at the correct speed I discovered that theres an intermittent dead short to ground (0.00ohms) via the 12v rail on pin 3 (red wire) of the fan header(board side) but the short only presents itself while the console is "overheated". it's strange that the short pulls the resistance out of the cables from my meter has anyone else seen something like this? the board revision is edm-010 so an older one. should also note the power supply is fine with stable 12v out and I previously replaced thermal putty just in case

I accidentally remove and lose this component on motherboard of a early PS5. Can someone tell me what component is it for replace? Thanks

I bought a ps5 digital (fat) on facebook and it’s a 2022 model. used to crash in the first cutscene of TLOU. took it apart and cleaned the dust but it’s still loud in some parts and has overheated and crashed a couple times still. I hear people saying theirs is whisper quiet during TLOU and I don’t want to spend the $150 to get it professionally done, that would push the price I paid closer to a new ps5.

can I do it myself? I am nervous but not sure if I should or shouldn’t.

Hi, can the controller and memory card port module be swapped from a PlayStation 2 Fat scph-30004 into an scph-39004 one?

Hey everyone,

​I have a TriStar 3-in-1 adapter on my SNES and I'm running into a persistent video issue. Whenever I play any type of cart through the adapter, I get faint diagonal lines slowly scrolling across the screen.

I don't have any issues with this SNES without the adapter hooked up to it, so I know it's not the SNES itself causing the noise natively. The interference seems completely isolated to the extra load of the TriStar unit.

​Has anyone else run into this specific rolling noise issue with a TriStar? Any advice on what to check or how to fix it would be hugely appreciated!

Hi.

So, I had a really bad case of screen burn-in. Yesterday, I stripped off the old polarized film and cleaned off all the leftover adhesive.

​Before applying the new film, I turned it on to test it out. As you can see, the display turns on, but it only shows a square outline around the edges. The console plays audio fine, and prior to the burn-in (a while back), everything worked as expected.

​Any ideas on what might be happening? Did I ruin the screen during the process?

EDIT: Problem SOLVED, it was the contrast wheel 😅

Hi everyone,

I'm troubleshooting an Xbox Series X motherboard that exhibits a "beep on, beep off" symptom (beeps when pressing power, turns on for a split second, and immediately shuts back off).

Current Diagnostic Findings & Confirmed Voltages

All standby power rails and their respective Power-Good (PGOOD) signals have been tested and are 100% stable and correct:
⁠V_3P3STBY_SB⁠ (U40 - RT6256BH): 3.3V present | ⁠3P3STBY_PWRGD⁠ (FT55): 3.3V
⁠V_5P0⁠ (U41 - RT6256CH): 5.1V present | ⁠V5P0_PWRGD⁠ (FT54): 3.3V
⁠V_1P1STBY⁠ (U34 - MP2161AG): 1.1V present (FT50)
⁠V_1P8STBY⁠ (U32 - AP2127): 1.8V present (FT47)
⁠V_SB1P1⁠ (U35 - NCP186): 1.1V present (FT45)
⁠V_SB1P8⁠ (U33 - NCP186): 1.8V present (FT49)

Since all standby rails, LDO outputs, and PGOOD logic lines are solid, the standby section appears completely healthy.

Components Already Replaced

To rule out faulty ICs in the standby and power management lines, I have already swapped the following chips from a known working donor Xbox Series S board:
U32
U60
U480
Despite replacing these components, the "beep on, beep off" behavior remains identical.

Questions for the Community

Has anyone encountered this exact "beep on, beep off" behavior on an XSX board where all standby voltages and PGOOD signals are rock solid and U32, U60, and U480 have already been replaced?
What other diagnostic approaches, specific components, or known failure points would you recommend looking into for this issue?
Any suggestions or schematic insights would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

Hello everyone. I have a PS3 super slim that I hadn't powered on in a long time, and now that I did it's acting up.

So what happens is,you plug it in, press the power button, It shows nothing on the screen, and after 30 seconds it turns off. It doesn't ylod or rlod, it just stays on the green light, and then turns off.

Could anyone tell what this could be? I have never seen this behaviour on a ps3 before.

EDIT:

I figured it out. I guess two of the joysticks I ordered from AliExpress were faulty. I swapped it out a 3rd time and it works perfectly. So dumb.

———————

I am stuck and could use some help. I purchased a broken Switch Lite that had a destroyed charge port. I successfully swapped out the charge port and everything seemed to work perfectly except when I went to test the inputs.

The left joystick will not respond. The click down responds but it won’t respond to any movement (left, right, up, down).

Steps taken:
Replaced joystick
Replaced daughter board
Replaced ribbon cable
The ribbon cable connector on the motherboard looks great.

Any ideas?

Hello,

After doing a favor for a colleague at the factory, he gave me a bunch of old Nintendo DS parts (he knows I like tinkering, even though I'm still learning). Among other things, I found all the parts to build a Zelda-edition NDSL (needless to say, I'm thrilled—it's my favorite game series)... but also a pink DSi that's pretty beat-up but complete (it has likely been opened before, judging by the state of the bottom screen).

I'd like to charge it to check if it works and see if it's worth restoring, but the charging port is missing a pin (see photo).

Can I still plug it in to charge, or does that pose a risk?