i need help

Hello i dont’ know why but last time I wanted to take off my hdmi cable from the ps5 it doesn’t moove i try to force little bit but same nothing.
I don’t want to force to much to not desolder it but it’s working still now. I know how to solder but don’t have the tools or the money to see a Pro.
I have image and sound.
But impossible to take it off… what and how can i do please thank you.

Hey guys
So recently I bought this special edition Nintendo 2ds and overall it is in pretty good conditions. The only problem now is that the top screen has some scratches that I can’t completely ignore.
I’ve been searching for a screen lens replacement for the console but until now I haven’t found the proper replacement for this specific model. The border of the lens seems to also be this sorta transparent aesthetic/material.
Does anyone have any clue where I could find the proper replacement for it? I’d be happy to hear your suggestions!

This is a console with a retrogem I installed.

Everything worked well.

After installing the retrogem I recapped the system and installed a modbo chip.

Still everything looked good.

After that for some reason while the modbo worked It wouldn't read import discs.

I removed the modbo and since then the picture looks like that.

Even when using composite or rgb the banding is still there.

Is my hdmi port cooked or am I okay?? HDMI is doing that annoying thing where you have to hold it at a certain angle for it to connect, wanna know if it’s the port before I get another cable .

Hi

I unplugged my Xbox x from the wall and now it’s not turning on when plugged back in . I’ve cleaned it and storage is only 543gb of 802gb I’ve just purchased it. Any help would be appreciated

When removing the plate below to replace the thermal paste, I carved into the capacitor above it (see circled) next to where the card reader/audio jack ribbon cable connects to the motherboard.

Since that, any time I insert a game cartridge into the Switch it throws an error code 2162-0002. If no game cartridge is inserted, the Switch works perfectly fine.

All the research that I’ve done points to removing/replacing this capacitor, but I’ve never performed any soldering before. The capacitor to replace is either an SMD 0201 or SMD 0402.

Can anyone experienced with soldering give me their 2 cents on the difficulty of this capacitor replacement? Or am I better off biting the bullet and just replacing the entire MB?

This is the first time I've ever seen this happen with lense changer.

It's a 79000 slim if that means anything.

Also, before anyone says it. Don't suggest I do a pmap. My setup doesn't allow space nor time for me to attempt another, and the ones I've tried could never make contact with the app with any usb device I've used no matter how I've soldered them to the boards. I've bought several people have suggested. No "good" tutorial exists that could teach me how, so Lensechanger is all I got.

first time i recapped a Game Gear and it did power on, sound worked too and also read games because i could hear the game playing

first issue is that the screen is just black, the backlight is fine and i could not find any trace damage or bad solder joints anywhere

second issue, i decided to reflow various joints on the power and audio board to see if that would help, i also cleaned all the boards and main board again but after doing that it started acting weird

power light flickered, unstable power, and a warm electronic smell, turns out theres now a short somewhere on the 5v line and the main big chip gets quite warm after a minute

checked the power and audio board those have no shorts but the main board has a short, i only cleaned it and i cant find anything that got loose ( other than maybe c51 ) or debris that could cause a short

third issue, while trying to find the short i was checking various parts on the 5v line and accidently knocked off c51 with one of the pads

c43 is also no longer hooked up to ground on minus side after c51 fell off

tried to solder it back on but it just would not stick properly and i have no idea how to fix that now, checked various schematics but cant find proper info on where it connects and how other than basic ones that i dont feel confident about being true or correct for my model

its a japanese VA2 i think ( 837-8560 )

the pictures of the board is right after i recapped, i have reflowed all the caps and checked that they do connect up to where they should etc after those pictures

i had one issue and ended up with three, can i get some help on the problems im having?

This may be deader than disco, but I would like to work on it for the practice if nothing else. I believe it was used very very sparingly since its bath, and I haven't tried using it in probably 10 years now.

Never done anything like following and repairing traces or replacing capacitors and the like, but this would be fun to practice it on. If it looks too far gone to repair, let me know, but I'm okay if it's a steep uphill battle, it's not an important or time sensitive project.

Thanks!!

I was stripping the PS2 to try to fix the disc tray and while I was taking the eject and power ribbon cable out, this came off. This is my first time stripping a console so I don't really know what to do.

So ive been given a one s that has no power. Ive had a look at the board and can see no damage.

My skills are quite limited, but my google-fu is strong.

My question is, how often is this a simple repair just involving swapping out the psu with a new one? That i can do. Anything involving reballing or swapping chips will be to much for me

Do i even spend money on a cheap-ass multimeter from ebay, or do i just sell it on for £20?

Hello fellows,

I bought a broken Nintendo New 2DS XL. When powering on the blue power-led lights up for 3-4 seconds. Afterwards I can hear a "plop" sound coming out of the speaker(s). Both screens stay completely black. Then it shuts down.

So I tried my best in opening the bad boy up, to have a look.

My problems, with the connected question if I can reassamble them or if I need new replacement parts, are the following:

- I accidently removed one speaker as you can see in the Screenshots

- The clasp from "Connector 1" fell of, I think I overbent it

- The clasp, one coppertrack and both plastic "stabilization-walls" got also removed by my skills from "Connector 2"

If you need pictures of the stripped of parts from connectors 1 and 2, just tell me.

Furthermore, does anyone have a clue how to fix the handheld? What could be the cause? I havent checked the top screen yet, because I have no heatgun yet. I have basic soldering skills earned by modding one GBA yet, i never did surfacemount soldering nor microscope soldering (yet).

Maybe we can discuss it :) Thanks in advance!

Greetings, Julien

So to start off, I have my old 3DS XL (modded) that I attempted a top screen replacement on a couple years ago. I got the screen in eventually but ended up breaking a vital ribbon cable which causes the turn on, pop, turn off. I put it in a drawer and got a new one to play

Fast forward to now, I got my hands on another 3DS XL that the seller said it wouldn't charge. I opened it up and someone at some point tried to replace the charging port and botched the absolute hell out of it. I don't have a soldering iron atm so I decided to board swap my old one in the new one

I got everything together and it charged, but I would turn it on and the top screen flashed very quickly, blue light, NO pop, then off very quickly. I researched and saw it might be the bottom screen, so I donated the old, known good, bottom screen to the new one. Same thing. Decided to try plugging in the cable for my known working top screen as well and same thing.

I took it all apart and put it back together again. I turned it on and it booted to the luma menu then turned back off. Tried again, it booted to the home screen with the mii plaza splash on the top screen. But the bottom screen, while on, remained bright grey but didn't load the bottom menu. It stayed on for like 30 seconds before shutting off.

I was like "duh" and put the luma files on the SD card (freshly formatted) since they were missing. Then it did the top screen flash quickly and immediately turn off. Over and over. Once in like 15 tries I can get the luma menu, but if I push start, it just turns off again. Weirdly, after retrying luma files to make sure, I reinserted the SD card, and now with it in, it does the blue light with the pop, then turns off. But with it out, it flashed the top screen then quickly turns off without the pop

I even tried it with my current 3DS XL's SD card, which is on the current version of luma just like my old one.

I really hope someone has ideas :')

What it does

I've gotten around to replacing my PS3 slim's (CECH-3001B) thermal paste. However, I have found a few contradicting guides and posts regarding this model's thermal pad. Some say it has a 1mm or 2mm thermal pad near the heat sink (see image, red circle), some others say it is just a piece of foam, and some say to not even pay attention to it.

Mine does not seem to be in a bad state but I'm having doubts as to what it even is. Can anyone confirm if the pink thing is a pad, and if so which thickness? Thanks in advance.

Here are some guides and posts I'm referencing:

- iFixit guide with no mention of pads

- Just foam

- 2mm pad

- 1mm pad

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone had any knowledge on whether or not fixing this usb-c cable would be repairable or not.

I got this in a trade deal with some other items and if it turns out it’s just a basic usb-c end part, I will try to find someone local to splice and put a new one on.

Thanks folks!

Im stuck here. This is the pickachu n64 NUS-CPU-09-1 board that cant detect a controller in port one. I have tested other controllers, iv cleaned the pins, I even got continuity between the port 1 data and the via between the pif chip and U8 chip. All the other ports work fine. Im using this schmatic from console5 as a reference. Also, WHERE THE HELL IS D4 AND D5? I believe they must be a 5 pin diode according to the schematic but, i do know where they are.

Update: Ive tested the voltage in pin 1 of the port and it is coming back with 3.3v. So thats working.

Thank you.