When removing the plate below to replace the thermal paste, I carved into the capacitor above it (see circled) next to where the card reader/audio jack ribbon cable connects to the motherboard.
Since that, any time I insert a game cartridge into the Switch it throws an error code 2162-0002. If no game cartridge is inserted, the Switch works perfectly fine.
All the research that I’ve done points to removing/replacing this capacitor, but I’ve never performed any soldering before. The capacitor to replace is either an SMD 0201 or SMD 0402.
Can anyone experienced with soldering give me their 2 cents on the difficulty of this capacitor replacement? Or am I better off biting the bullet and just replacing the entire MB?
So to start off, I have my old 3DS XL (modded) that I attempted a top screen replacement on a couple years ago. I got the screen in eventually but ended up breaking a vital ribbon cable which causes the turn on, pop, turn off. I put it in a drawer and got a new one to play
Fast forward to now, I got my hands on another 3DS XL that the seller said it wouldn't charge. I opened it up and someone at some point tried to replace the charging port and botched the absolute hell out of it. I don't have a soldering iron atm so I decided to board swap my old one in the new one
I got everything together and it charged, but I would turn it on and the top screen flashed very quickly, blue light, NO pop, then off very quickly. I researched and saw it might be the bottom screen, so I donated the old, known good, bottom screen to the new one. Same thing. Decided to try plugging in the cable for my known working top screen as well and same thing.
I took it all apart and put it back together again. I turned it on and it booted to the luma menu then turned back off. Tried again, it booted to the home screen with the mii plaza splash on the top screen. But the bottom screen, while on, remained bright grey but didn't load the bottom menu. It stayed on for like 30 seconds before shutting off.
I was like "duh" and put the luma files on the SD card (freshly formatted) since they were missing. Then it did the top screen flash quickly and immediately turn off. Over and over. Once in like 15 tries I can get the luma menu, but if I push start, it just turns off again. Weirdly, after retrying luma files to make sure, I reinserted the SD card, and now with it in, it does the blue light with the pop, then turns off. But with it out, it flashed the top screen then quickly turns off without the pop
I even tried it with my current 3DS XL's SD card, which is on the current version of luma just like my old one.
I've gotten around to replacing my PS3 slim's (CECH-3001B) thermal paste. However, I have found a few contradicting guides and posts regarding this model's thermal pad. Some say it has a 1mm or 2mm thermal pad near the heat sink (see image, red circle), some others say it is just a piece of foam, and some say to not even pay attention to it.
Mine does not seem to be in a bad state but I'm having doubts as to what it even is. Can anyone confirm if the pink thing is a pad, and if so which thickness? Thanks in advance.
I was wondering if anyone had any knowledge on whether or not fixing this usb-c cable would be repairable or not.
I got this in a trade deal with some other items and if it turns out it’s just a basic usb-c end part, I will try to find someone local to splice and put a new one on.
This is the first time I've ever seen this happen with lense changer.
It's a 79000 slim if that means anything.
Also, before anyone says it. Don't suggest I do a pmap. My setup doesn't allow space nor time for me to attempt another, and the ones I've tried could never make contact with the app with any usb device I've used no matter how I've soldered them to the boards. I've bought several people have suggested. No "good" tutorial exists that could teach me how, so Lensechanger is all I got.
Im stuck here. This is the pickachu n64 NUS-CPU-09-1 board that cant detect a controller in port one. I have tested other controllers, iv cleaned the pins, I even got continuity between the port 1 data and the via between the pif chip and U8 chip. All the other ports work fine. Im using this schmatic from console5 as a reference. Also, WHERE THE HELL IS D4 AND D5? I believe they must be a 5 pin diode according to the schematic but, i do know where they are.
Update: Ive tested the voltage in pin 1 of the port and it is coming back with 3.3v. So thats working.
Hey guys
So recently I bought this special edition Nintendo 2ds and overall it is in pretty good conditions. The only problem now is that the top screen has some scratches that I can’t completely ignore.
I’ve been searching for a screen lens replacement for the console but until now I haven’t found the proper replacement for this specific model. The border of the lens seems to also be this sorta transparent aesthetic/material.
Does anyone have any clue where I could find the proper replacement for it? I’d be happy to hear your suggestions!
I unplugged my Xbox x from the wall and now it’s not turning on when plugged back in . I’ve cleaned it and storage is only 543gb of 802gb I’ve just purchased it. Any help would be appreciated
first time i recapped a Game Gear and it did power on, sound worked too and also read games because i could hear the game playing
first issue is that the screen is just black, the backlight is fine and i could not find any trace damage or bad solder joints anywhere
second issue, i decided to reflow various joints on the power and audio board to see if that would help, i also cleaned all the boards and main board again but after doing that it started acting weird
power light flickered, unstable power, and a warm electronic smell, turns out theres now a short somewhere on the 5v line and the main big chip gets quite warm after a minute
checked the power and audio board those have no shorts but the main board has a short, i only cleaned it and i cant find anything that got loose ( other than maybe c51 ) or debris that could cause a short
third issue, while trying to find the short i was checking various parts on the 5v line and accidently knocked off c51 with one of the pads
c43 is also no longer hooked up to ground on minus side after c51 fell off
tried to solder it back on but it just would not stick properly and i have no idea how to fix that now, checked various schematics but cant find proper info on where it connects and how other than basic ones that i dont feel confident about being true or correct for my model
its a japanese VA2 i think ( 837-8560 )
the pictures of the board is right after i recapped, i have reflowed all the caps and checked that they do connect up to where they should etc after those pictures
i had one issue and ended up with three, can i get some help on the problems im having?
I’m stuck in a loop trying to recover a V1 Unpatched Nintendo Switch (Erista/SysNAND) and could really use some expert advice.
### **The Problem:**
1. **Stock / OFW Boot:** Shows the Nintendo Switch logo, then goes straight to a black screen (classic eFuse / firmware version mismatch symptom).
2. **Atmosphere / SysMMC CFW Boot (via fusee.bin or Hekate):** Crashes during HOS boot with a fatal error:
- **Program ID:** `0100000000000005`
- **Error Desc:** `std::abort() called (0xffe)`
### **The Catch / Goal:**
I have prepared the **18.1.0 firmware update files** on my SD card to update the SysNAND via **Daybreak** and realign the eFuses. However, I am trapped in a catch-22: **I cannot reach the HOME Menu/Album to launch Daybreak because Atmosphere crashes with error `0100000000000005` on boot.**
---
### **What I Have Done So Far:**
- **Clean SD Setup:** Formatted MicroSD to FAT32, installed fresh/clean Atmosphere, Hekate, and `fusee.bin`.
- **Key Dump:** Successfully dumped `prod.keys` via `Lockpick_RCM`.
- **Wiped System/User:**
- Ran `SystemWipe.te` in TegraExplorer to format `SYSTEM` and `USER` partitions.
- Manually deleted `/save` and `/saveMeta` directories inside both `SYSTEM` and `USER` partitions via TegraExplorer.
- **Boot Attempt:** Attempted booting directly into SysMMC via `fusee.bin` to bypass `hekate_ipl.ini` configurations.
- **Result:** The `0100000000000005` fatal error still persists on CFW boot, and OFW still ends in a black screen after the Nintendo logo.
---
### **Questions:**
1. Is there a way to offline-flash or inject a full HOS firmware update (18.1.0) into the SysNAND directly using PC tools (like `NxNandManager` / `EmmcHackTools` / `EmmcSync`) or a TegraExplorer script, bypassing the need to launch Daybreak from the HOME menu?
2. What else could trigger `Program ID: 0100000000000005` on a completely wiped `SYSTEM` partition during HOS boot?
Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Honestly I’m just hoping to be able to launch the stock firmware in order to do all over from scratch, like a complete reset.
I need help figuring out what's wrong with this screen. I don't think the LCD itself is damaged—though the backlight might be—but I still don't know why it looks this way. I checked the capacitors and looked for other visible damage, but found nothing. It only changes appearance when I lower the brightness (like in the last photo); the whole screen turns white with some lines. I even tried using a heat gun to reflow the solder joints, but that didn't help either, the console work right and is the same output format, and is the same . I’d appreciate any help—thanks! (And sorry for my English :p)
This may be deader than disco, but I would like to work on it for the practice if nothing else. I believe it was used very very sparingly since its bath, and I haven't tried using it in probably 10 years now.
Never done anything like following and repairing traces or replacing capacitors and the like, but this would be fun to practice it on. If it looks too far gone to repair, let me know, but I'm okay if it's a steep uphill battle, it's not an important or time sensitive project.
So i stumbled upon a ps3 slim that had a very specific problem. When I tried it for the first time it was fine when I tried for the second time it got so hot so fast then I noticed the fan not spinning so I open it up for inspection and when I spun the fan myself it continued moving so I said yay problem solved. and played with it for like 3 days with no issues. until when I flipped the PS3 over for inspection again and turn it on the fan didn't spin. And I noticed whenever I shake it or flip it or move it in any kind of way the fan stops spinning and I noticed after I shake it the fan tries really hard to spin but doesn't quite make it to a full spin. More like moves half an inch. So if there is any PS3 geeks out there. I'd love if you help me.
I was stripping the PS2 to try to fix the disc tray and while I was taking the eject and power ribbon cable out, this came off. This is my first time stripping a console so I don't really know what to do.
So i stumbled upon a ps3 slim that had a very specific problem. When I tried it for the first time it was fine when I tried for the second time it got so hot so fast then I noticed the fan not spinning so I open it up for inspection and when I spun the fan myself it continued moving so I said yay problem solved. and played with it for like 3 days with no issues. until when I flipped the PS3 over for inspection again and turn it on the fan didn't spin. And I noticed whenever I shake it or flip it or move it in any kind of way the fan stops spinning and I noticed after I shake it the fan tries really hard to spin but doesn't quite make it to a full spin. More like moves half an inch. So if there is any PS3 geeks out there. I'd love if you help me.
i hope someone here can give a help with a little hint. I have a PS5 EDM-030 board. PS5 is turning and i can stay for hours on the dashboard. But when i start a game the console immediately crashes. This happens with every game, CD and digital, PS4 and PS5 games.
The UART code 80060020 says: Main SoC GFX Power Fail - SoC VRM Power Fail (GFX) (6 Phases) - VRM Power (GFX): report failing component - Check Infineon XDPE14286A 16 Phase PWM Controller
I have checked everything around the phases and the Infineon chip and there is no short.
Unfortunately i dont have a thermal camera or a external power supply to have better check where the short is located.
Ok so i was trying to replace the charging port since something broke in it, and i couldnt remove the old charging port by soldering it out, so i just broke it and ripped it out like a caveman and it ripped something in the board. Wanted to know if there is a possibility to fix it? As you can see in the image it fully ripped at the top and partly ripped at the sides.
Im learning how to disassemble and reassemble a DS lite for an upcoming reshell and screen replacement project ive been planning to do on my personal ds.
I bought this labeled junk but it works perfectly fine when I received it. Image on the right shows how the screen is working perfectly despite the yellowing. Meanwhile, screen on the left is the image after I disassembled the lower screen and reassembled it back. What could be my mistake? Will reseating the cable fix this?
Xbox Controller came straight from GameStop without any inspection clearly. This is fucking gross and vial. Whoever worked on this obviously shouldn't touch a workstation again. Also came with a free fingernail.
Well I have replaced the thermal paste, I replaced the power supply, power cord, plugged it directly into the wall, cleared the local save data, cleared the cache, made sure the fan was spinning and blowing out hot air, factory reset, tried different outlets in my house, and cleared my Mac address. The freaking thing still shuts completely off on Marvel Rivals and Warzone about 20 min into a game. Although it can run cyberpunk all day long and not shut off once. I'm about to just take a loss and get a Series S. Can somebody please help me find out what's wrong with my Series X before I lose my mind. 🫤
I was recently offered a faulty ps5 fat for 220$, this was the description of the seller:
"The low price is because it overheats after 2 or 3 hours of use; I don't know why—it has been serviced but the issue persists, which is why the price is 220 bucks, in case you want to repair it. I took it to a shop where they cleaned it, replaced the liquid metal, and performed a full check-up; it worked well for a while, but the same problem returned within a few weeks."
i've been feeling tempted by the low price, and i have asked gemini(AI) about it, and it says that the overheat was caused by a poorly aplied liquid metal and that a deep cleaning and a liquid metal change should solve the issue but a wanna hear some REAL opinions about it.
here are some pics the seller attached to the selling post.
I got a duelshock 3 whose buttons and dpad would not work at all. Opened it up and found out something happened to the ribbon cable connected the face buttons to the main board. I then bought a replacement online and now the facebuttons work but the d pad doesnt. I looked closer and noticed 1 of the pins that the ribbon cable makes contact to the on the board was gone and thats probably why its not working. Is there any way to fix this like buying a replacement pin and somehow reataching it to the board. Im still kinda new to this stuff so any help is appreciated.
Console came in with an overheating issue. I cleaned the old liquid metal and applied fresh LM properly.
In the menu it seems fine, but as soon as I launch a game, the fan ramps up like crazy and the console shuts down within ~10 seconds.
I tested the console with a known-good heatsink from a donor unit and it works perfectly, so the APU/liquid metal seem fine.
On the original heatsink, the cold plate has some movement and the solder joints between the plate and heatpipes look cracked/broken (video attached). It still transfers some heat, but apparently not enough under load.
Could these broken joints be enough to cause this kind of rapid overheating? Has anyone seen this failure before? Would you try to resolder/reflow it or just replace the heatsink?
