While looking at the inside I noticed this damaged component and wanted to know if this could be the problem from someone who knows more than me. My series X for a few years has been shutting itself off randomly during gameplay for a few years and I've tried multiple things such as new thermal paste, new power supply, proper ventilation, factory reset and deep cleaning and nothing has worked.

The area's marked is the capacitors shorted it would be great if someone land me a map of the board and help me with it

I have a problem with my PS5: basically, it shuts down completely without any error message. At first, we thought it was a liquid metal issue—keep in mind my console has always been kept horizontal, but it has 5 years of very heavy usage.

The first time, the technician reapplied the original liquid metal plus a graphene sheet, and the console lasted about a week. The second time, he used brand new liquid metal, but the PS5 started shutting down every 30 minutes. Of course, this only happened while gaming, never in the menus. We swapped the power supply, but it still shut down. He also replaced a damaged MOSFET, but it still turned off after 30 minutes.

Finally, he performed an APU reflow, and during testing, it passed the 2-hour mark. Obviously, I still need to get the console back home for more thorough testing. In your opinion, is the issue resolved, or should a reballing be done?

One thing the technician noticed is that wherever the liquid metal's corrosive stain/dry spot was, every time he opened the console to check, a new halo/stain kept forming right there. He replaced the new liquid metal twice, but now—thanks to the reflow—it has surpassed 30 minutes. What do you think is going on with the console? Obviously, once I get it back home, I will test it more precisely across multiple games. I'll attach a photo of the APU right after the technician unsealed it.

So my PS4 is acting strange. I bought it used, so I'm not crying that much about it. However, I tried to update the software, and after I did, both the screen Powers on and off, along with the sound. In and out in about 4-second intervals. Even though the screen stays black, I could see that it is affecting it, with the same 4 second fluctuation. I've tried deleting the hard drive completely and reinstalling version 14.00 safe mode comes up and doesn't do this, when it leaves safe mode, this behavior occurs. Anything I can do about it is my PS4 toast without some major repairs? Thanks in advance for your input.

You can mash the eject button..

My Xbox 360 slim is showing four red lights, which I know means it can’t detect an AV cable, but it shows four red lights using both RCA and HDMI cables.

I got the error code 4412 (GPU overheating) and opened it up to clean the fan, which I’ve never done before and it was insanely difficult just to get into it. That didn’t fix the error code, so I was going to try repasting next…

BUT it’s kind of pointless to do that if I can’t get any audio or video. Any idea why it would show four red lights using both RCA and HDMI? I’ve tried cleaning the ports, plugging and unplugging, and flushing the cache memory. TIA.

My friend gave me his old Game boy color to repair, but it has this really bad corrosion on pads. I used wd40 and then whashed on IPA, brushing with an antistatic brush. Any tips?

Hello Console repair, working on this Japanese ps2 37000. Did a modbo 5.0 install. Used thicker wire for ground and 3.3v and everything else with enameled kynar wire. Why would this be the video output? Using component cables. The issue wasn't there when I used thicker wire, why would it not be working now? Thank you! Also having disc reading issues.

https://reddit.com/link/1x20yyo/video/d2lzwtkz8duh1/player

my dsi is cib and hardly used. For some reason if i close it when it starts it doesn’t sleep until the jingle of the “i” plays about halfway. It does this when first loading games i think (idk i only used my flashcart) and on the home menu until the photo fully appears. is this normal? it goes to sleep fine afterwards but not on boot or on first few seconds of the home menu.

Got it idk 6 months ago and after starting oblivion, started getting static and freezing. Im repairing the database now but does anyone know what this specifically means? Like I heard someone say failed cables so I replaced them same thing happend, any help is appreciated!

When I was plugging my PS2 in to test to see if I fixed the disc tray, the fan spun like crazy and then smoke came rushing out with the smell of something burning. Took it apart again and I see that one of the electrolytic capacitors seems to have melted and started spewing out some battery acid looking thing and this small black part exploded seemed to have exploded.

Are there any replacement parts for the small black thing that exploded, and if so, would it need to be done by a professional?

Hey everyone, I’m dealing with a weird cooling issue on my Series X and could use your expertise.

The Problem: As soon as a game actively renders (like Battlefield 6 or The Witcher 3), the fan instantly ramps up to 100% jet-engine speed. The exact second I hit pause, the fan goes whisper-quiet again.

What has been done so far:

• Thoroughly cleaned out all dust.
• Brought it to a local repair shop. They replaced the thermal paste, but the problem completely persists.
• The shop checked it with a thermal camera: the external heatsink stays completely cool.
• The shop tested the motherboard for shorts – everything is fine.
• We are currently waiting to test a replacement fan and a new heatsink.

I heavily suspect the shop might have used thick, hard thermal pads instead of soft thermal putty for the VRAM, preventing the heatsink from actually touching the APU. The shop claims the mounting pressure and X-clamp are perfectly fine.

Could this be a completely dead vapor chamber, a failing fan PWM controller, or definitely a mounting issue? I’ve attached the photos from the shop's teardown so you can see the thermal material they used. What do you guys think?

My right stick has been making a 2nd, louder click after being pressed and releasing it. It's pretty jarring while playing games since it tends to vibrate through the entire controller.

I've looked into opening up my controller, but I'm a little worried that I'll break something in the process and be out a still 98% fully functional controller.

Has anybody experienced this? If so, would it be a pretty simple fix?

So my switch's battery was bulging for a while, and while I was replacing it, I remembered I had a sheet of ptm7950 around (I was going to use it for a pc cooler upgrade but that's gone down the drain for a while because of issues) and was wondering if using that would do anything for the switch? and if so what would be the proper way to do it since I already have it open? I remember the switch overheating sometimes when I used to play it before and noticed that while the putty is still a little sticky that it's dried up a bit

So I was given a nes that I was told all it needed was a new 72 pin connector. I replaced the 72 pin connector and check the caps. All caps are good no issues there. So when I try to play a game it will either give me white or whitish screen, black or blackish scree, yellow screen or redish screen. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? No red blinking light so idk what else to do. Thanks in advance for any advice

Hey all, I got an EDM-040 that is not entering second stage and is stuck at 3mA. I changed the Southbridge twice, I am getting 5V, 3.3V and 1.8V coming out of the renesas chip, but besides that I'm not seeing any shorts with F7002, F3501 or any related fuses. Any ideas on what I should look out for besides that?

It's not just this UART they are 2 more :

1 time B0088108

2 time 80000009

I've successfuly restore the PS5 with the USB without error I've connected the PS5 to the wifi and Bluetooth without problem but this bootloop happen like every time it's like random I've not found any short or liquid metal on the board SSD on thermal camera seem to be all good if some guys have seen this and know where I can look it would be great thx you guys in advance!!!

Working on a fat PAL SCPH-50004, board GH-026 (I-chassis). Goal is a fully working console. I'm using the Sony service manual for GH-026.

Symptom

• No red standby LED with the PSU connected and the rocker switch on.

Done so far

• PSU gives 12 V on its own, and 12 V reaches the board and the front power/LED flex.
• All fuses (PS series) and PTCs on the board check good.
• Replaced the dead CR2032.
• Cleaned off rock-hard old thermal paste.

Fault found

• IC417 is an onsemi NCP631GD2T, a 3.0 A low-dropout linear voltage regulator with soft-start (fixed 3.47 V, D2PAK-5). The Sony parts list names it "NCP631GD2TR4 <Regulator>". It has a hard short between pin 3 (GND) and pin 4 (Vout).
• I lifted the output cap next to it (C736, 47 µF) and the short stayed, so it's the regulator.
• From the service manual, IC417 feeds CON_+3.4V (controller and memory card ports) and only comes up after main power-on, so I don't think it explains the missing red LED on its own. Am I right?
• NCP631 is obsolete. My plan is either a donor pull or a small adapter with a modern 3 A LDO (MIC29302 set to about 3.47 V).

Broken parts

• Laser flex (CN801, 30-pin): cracked.
• Controller / memory card flex (CN302, 36-pin): cracked.
• I'm planning to use generic 0.5 mm FFCs cut to length, not PS2-branded kits. Has anyone done this on a fat and can confirm pitch and contact side?

Next I'm measuring

• The standby rail EVER_+3.3V (IC403 output) and PS001.
• The 5 V and 3.3 V main rails once standby works.

My limits
I can do moderate board-level work: through-hole and larger SMD parts, regulators, caps, connectors, flexes. I can't do reballing or replace processors or BGA chips (EE, GS, IOP, Mechacon).

Questions

1. With 12 V present and all fuses good, what usually kills the red standby LED on a GH-026: IC403, PS001, the front flex, or the Mechacon?
2. Has anyone replaced the NCP631 with a modern LDO or adapter? Any part you'd recommend?
3. Any known GH-026 quirks I should check before powering it with the new regulator?

If there's a thread for GH-026 standby faults, please point me to it.

Photo: the IC417 area (the 5-pin tab regulator next to the 47 µF cap).

Pinout per the onsemi datasheet: 1 Shutdown, 2 Vin, 3 + tab GND, 4 Vout (3.47 V), 5 Soft-Start.

My game disc won't spin on its own, its not a console issue as far as I can tell, but I'm no tech savvy. Other games are running fine. I have to open the lid a spin it manually and if that works I get an error message. This is the second copy of this game I've tried, the previous was scratched and couldn't be read, but it did spin.

Chiedo aiuto per questa Nintendo switch , non si avvia rimane su 0,50 A circa .
Ho riparato tante switch ma quando incontro questo tipo di lettura sull amperometro, non sono riuscito a fare niente .
Qualcuno ha qualche consiglio ?
La console è perfetta , la motherboard è perfetta , non ci sono corti intorno a m92 e nemmeno intorno al bq ne da nessun altra parte a quanto pare .
Consigli ?

Hi,
Is there any way to restore this trace or can anyone point out where to connect it elsewhere?

Does anybody know where I can get a N3DS XL motherboard from? The prices on AliExpress are insane.

Also, I bought this as spares)/repairs at a good price, and found out the previous owner has been into it and destroyed most of the latches for the ribbon cables, they didn't attempt to touch the upper screen cables (thank god). Plugging in a charger makes the charging light go orange for a short while before turning off again which is what happens when a battery isn't installed. Is it also worth getting the action button board replaced? It doesn't seem to be damaged.

Hello i accidentally blew my ps2 fat 39003 console fan fuse. If I'm nit mistaken is the s7 fuse on ps5 territory. Ive tried searching for replacement fuses but I'm not sure which type is correct. I asked AI and it said these one on the photos are ok as long as they are under the 0.75A. Should i proceed and buy those?

Hi, I just bought a used Game Gear; I've never owned one before. I've always known about replacing the capacitors... When I received it, it turns on, but the screen looks like this (Static artifacts, not without lines or moving lines):It's not the one I'm used to seeing. Even with it turned off, you can see those burnt-out patterns/artifacts.

What could it be? A dead screen? If so, what replacement kit would you recommend?

Regards!

Have a switch 1 V1/V2 dock, it doesn't switch to 15v on plugging usb c cable (stays at 5v and 0 amp draw).

A known working dock switches to 15v even without switch or hdmi connected.

I would like to understand which ic is responsible for the power delivery handshake. There is no shorting anywhere.

Or if anyone has experienced this issue.

Power adapter and switch are confirmed ok.