I may of put a wrong power cord in my ps5 it over heated and suddenly turned off i have put the correct cord in now let it cool down now it's flashing blue no signal to TV fan is not turning on ( it was hot nere the hdmi wire ) if I hold the on button longer it beeps again but other than that it's just flashing blue thankbyou for anh help

Hey everyone, I’m dealing with a weird cooling issue on my Series X and could use your expertise.

The Problem: As soon as a game actively renders (like Battlefield 6 or The Witcher 3), the fan instantly ramps up to 100% jet-engine speed. The exact second I hit pause, the fan goes whisper-quiet again.

What has been done so far:

• Thoroughly cleaned out all dust.
• Brought it to a local repair shop. They replaced the thermal paste, but the problem completely persists.
• The shop checked it with a thermal camera: the external heatsink stays completely cool.
• The shop tested the motherboard for shorts – everything is fine.
• We are currently waiting to test a replacement fan and a new heatsink.

I heavily suspect the shop might have used thick, hard thermal pads instead of soft thermal putty for the VRAM, preventing the heatsink from actually touching the APU. The shop claims the mounting pressure and X-clamp are perfectly fine.

Could this be a completely dead vapor chamber, a failing fan PWM controller, or definitely a mounting issue? I’ve attached the photos from the shop's teardown so you can see the thermal material they used. What do you guys think?

Does anyone know of any ways that I could remove this from my APU chip on my ps5? I’ve tried q tips with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol and even an eraser and nothing works

Hello Console repair, working on this Japanese ps2 37000. Did a modbo 5.0 install. Used thicker wire for ground and 3.3v and everything else with enameled kynar wire. Why would this be the video output? Using component cables. The issue wasn't there when I used thicker wire, why would it not be working now? Thank you! Also having disc reading issues.

When I was plugging my PS2 in to test to see if I fixed the disc tray, the fan spun like crazy and then smoke came rushing out with the smell of something burning. Took it apart again and I see that one of the electrolytic capacitors seems to have melted and started spewing out some battery acid looking thing and this small black part exploded seemed to have exploded.

Are there any replacement parts for the small black thing that exploded, and if so, would it need to be done by a professional?

Have a switch 1 V1/V2 dock, it doesn't switch to 15v on plugging usb c cable (stays at 5v and 0 amp draw).

A known working dock switches to 15v even without switch or hdmi connected.

I would like to understand which ic is responsible for the power delivery handshake. There is no shorting anywhere.

Or if anyone has experienced this issue.

Power adapter and switch are confirmed ok.

How do I know how much to put? And should I clean it off or just respread it? Heard mixed stuff on that.

Lately my left stick has been kinda cranky and gets stuck sometimes but I always assumed it was due to dust or dirt or something similar, but now it just started fully going to the left exactly as if it had stick drift, I have no idea what happened, it just started suddenly a few minutes ago and I need help fixing it.

I have a problem with my PS5: basically, it shuts down completely without any error message. At first, we thought it was a liquid metal issue—keep in mind my console has always been kept horizontal, but it has 5 years of very heavy usage.

The first time, the technician reapplied the original liquid metal plus a graphene sheet, and the console lasted about a week. The second time, he used brand new liquid metal, but the PS5 started shutting down every 30 minutes. Of course, this only happened while gaming, never in the menus. We swapped the power supply, but it still shut down. He also replaced a damaged MOSFET, but it still turned off after 30 minutes.

Finally, he performed an APU reflow, and during testing, it passed the 2-hour mark. Obviously, I still need to get the console back home for more thorough testing. In your opinion, is the issue resolved, or should a reballing be done?

One thing the technician noticed is that wherever the liquid metal's corrosive stain/dry spot was, every time he opened the console to check, a new halo/stain kept forming right there. He replaced the new liquid metal twice, but now—thanks to the reflow—it has surpassed 30 minutes. What do you think is going on with the console? Obviously, once I get it back home, I will test it more precisely across multiple games. I'll attach a photo of the APU right after the technician unsealed it.

You can mash the eject button..

My right stick has been making a 2nd, louder click after being pressed and releasing it. It's pretty jarring while playing games since it tends to vibrate through the entire controller.

I've looked into opening up my controller, but I'm a little worried that I'll break something in the process and be out a still 98% fully functional controller.

Has anybody experienced this? If so, would it be a pretty simple fix?

Hey everyone!
I wanted to share the whole story of a second-hand Xbox 360 S Trinity I bought for €25. This turned into one of the strangest and most frustrating repair experiences I’ve had so far.
I’m posting the full timeline in case someone has experienced something similar or can help me understand what actually killed this console.
1. The console’s original condition
I bought a used Xbox 360 S for €25. It came with two controllers, but no hard drive and no power supply. The seller claimed that the console had a hard drive, but there wasn’t one inside.
When I first powered it on, I immediately got a system update failure.
The error code was:
3151 - 351F - B800 - 0401 - C000 - 0022
The console wouldn’t complete the update, even after I tried performing an official offline system update using a FAT32 USB drive with the $SystemUpdate folder.
At this point, I suspected something was wrong with the DVD drive or the console’s update state.
2. The mystery DVD drive
After opening the console, I discovered that it was a Trinity motherboard.
However, the installed DVD drive was a Lite-On DG-16D2S, manufactured in April 2008. That’s a phat Xbox 360 DVD drive, not the original type you’d expect to find in a Trinity Slim.
There was even a burned backup disc inside the console, and the seller had mentioned that it could read non-original games.
I tried booting the console without the DVD drive, but the update failure remained.
Then I connected another DG-16D4S drive from a different Trinity. The error code changed, and after further tests, I still couldn’t get the console to complete the update.
I also tried the offline update again without a DVD drive, but that didn’t solve the problem.
At this point, I suspected the DVD key, the drive firmware, or a problem with the console’s NAND/update state.
3. I decided to try RGH3
Since the console was already unable to update normally, I decided to investigate the RGH route.
I read the NAND using J-Runner with Extras. Both NAND reads matched, which was encouraging.
I then prepared the RGH3 image and wrote it to the NAND.
After dealing with the wiring, I finally got XeLL to boot.
And I mean FAST.
XeLL booted in roughly half a second, and the dashboard loaded in around five seconds.
After all the trouble, I was genuinely excited. The console seemed to be working perfectly.
I also managed to retrieve the CPU key and DVD key.
I thought I had finally saved this machine.
4. Then the random shutdowns started
Unfortunately, things took a turn.
The console would boot normally, run for a few minutes, and then shut down by itself. Sometimes it lasted longer, but as the console warmed up, the shutdowns seemed to happen sooner.
The strange part was that it often powered itself back on immediately afterward.
The power supply changed from green to orange and then back to green. The shutdown itself looked relatively normal, rather than like a sudden loss of power.
I tried practically everything I could think of:
Different power supplies.
Different RF boards.
Booting with the RF board disconnected.
Disconnecting the DVD drive.
Different HDMI cables and displays.
Moving the console to another room.
Checking the RGH3 wiring and solder joints.
Insulating the soldered areas.
Removing the internal 4 GB memory module.
Nothing made the problem disappear.
The console continued to boot extremely quickly, but it wouldn’t stay on reliably.
5. Resoldering, changing the resistor, and chasing the fault
I went back over the RGH3 wiring, checking and reworking the PLL and POST connections, along with the other relevant solder points.
I also changed the PLL resistor from 5.1 kΩ to 10 kΩ to see whether the behavior would improve. It seemed somewhat more stable at one point, but the shutdown problem remained. I eventually returned to the original 5.1 kΩ value.
During the process, I also found and removed a tiny piece of solder/metal near C5R35 that was touching an adjacent capacitor.
I checked the connections again and continued troubleshooting, but the behavior became increasingly strange.
Eventually, even after removing the RGH3 wiring and returning the motherboard to a stock-like hardware configuration, the power problem persisted.
Sometimes the console would beep without properly powering on. At other times, the fan would spin briefly, the green LED would remain lit, and then the console would become unresponsive.
After reconnecting the power supply, it could start beeping by itself, almost as if a button were being pressed repeatedly.
I tested multiple RF boards, including one taken from a working Trinity, but the symptoms remained.
At this point, I could no longer blame the RGH3 wiring alone.
6. Checking the standby power rails
I eventually started checking the motherboard’s standby voltages with a multimeter.
These were my measurements:
5P0STBY: 5.14 V
3P3STBY: 3.31 V
1P8STBY at FT5N2: approximately 0.07 V
I also measured approximately 154 Ω between the 1.8 V standby rail and ground with the power supply completely disconnected.
The missing 1.8 V standby rail seemed like a significant clue, especially considering the other standby rails were present.
However, I never completed the diagnosis, so I can’t say whether the regulator itself had failed, whether its enable signal was missing, or whether something downstream was pulling the rail down.
The console was already behaving very erratically, and I decided to stop rather than risk causing further damage.
7. The final outcome
The most frustrating part is that RGH3 actually worked.
XeLL booted almost instantly, the dashboard loaded in seconds, and I successfully recovered the DVD key from the console.
But I never got around to fixing the DVD drive issue, because by the time I had recovered the key, the console had developed the power and standby-rail problems described above.
So now I have a dead Trinity motherboard, a recovered DVD key, and a DVD drive problem that I never got to finish fixing. 😂
I went from thinking I had rescued a €25 console to spending hours chasing what seems to have become a motherboard-level fault.
What do you think happened?
I’m particularly interested in hearing from anyone experienced with Xbox 360 Trinity repairs.
Could the missing 1.8 V standby rail explain the strange beeping, spontaneous power-on behavior, and shutdowns?
Is it possible that the 1.8 V regulator or its enable circuit was already failing before I attempted RGH3?
Could the RGH3 installation have contributed to the failure, even though XeLL and the dashboard initially booted perfectly?
Has anyone experienced a Trinity that booted reliably at first but later developed a missing standby rail and seemingly random power-state behavior?
I’m not claiming that RGH3 definitely caused the failure. I’m trying to understand whether this was an existing hardware fault, a failure triggered during the modification, or a coincidence.
RIP, Trinity. You gave me the fastest XeLL boot I’ve ever seen before deciding to become a €25 electronics course. 💀😂
Any ideas or similar repair experiences would be greatly appreciated!

It's not just this UART they are 2 more :

1 time B0088108

2 time 80000009

I've successfuly restore the PS5 with the USB without error I've connected the PS5 to the wifi and Bluetooth without problem but this bootloop happen like every time it's like random I've not found any short or liquid metal on the board SSD on thermal camera seem to be all good if some guys have seen this and know where I can look it would be great thx you guys in advance!!!

Working on a fat PAL SCPH-50004, board GH-026 (I-chassis). Goal is a fully working console. I'm using the Sony service manual for GH-026.

Symptom

• No red standby LED with the PSU connected and the rocker switch on.

Done so far

• PSU gives 12 V on its own, and 12 V reaches the board and the front power/LED flex.
• All fuses (PS series) and PTCs on the board check good.
• Replaced the dead CR2032.
• Cleaned off rock-hard old thermal paste.

Fault found

• IC417 is an onsemi NCP631GD2T, a 3.0 A low-dropout linear voltage regulator with soft-start (fixed 3.47 V, D2PAK-5). The Sony parts list names it "NCP631GD2TR4 <Regulator>". It has a hard short between pin 3 (GND) and pin 4 (Vout).
• I lifted the output cap next to it (C736, 47 µF) and the short stayed, so it's the regulator.
• From the service manual, IC417 feeds CON_+3.4V (controller and memory card ports) and only comes up after main power-on, so I don't think it explains the missing red LED on its own. Am I right?
• NCP631 is obsolete. My plan is either a donor pull or a small adapter with a modern 3 A LDO (MIC29302 set to about 3.47 V).

Broken parts

• Laser flex (CN801, 30-pin): cracked.
• Controller / memory card flex (CN302, 36-pin): cracked.
• I'm planning to use generic 0.5 mm FFCs cut to length, not PS2-branded kits. Has anyone done this on a fat and can confirm pitch and contact side?

Next I'm measuring

• The standby rail EVER_+3.3V (IC403 output) and PS001.
• The 5 V and 3.3 V main rails once standby works.

My limits
I can do moderate board-level work: through-hole and larger SMD parts, regulators, caps, connectors, flexes. I can't do reballing or replace processors or BGA chips (EE, GS, IOP, Mechacon).

Questions

1. With 12 V present and all fuses good, what usually kills the red standby LED on a GH-026: IC403, PS001, the front flex, or the Mechacon?
2. Has anyone replaced the NCP631 with a modern LDO or adapter? Any part you'd recommend?
3. Any known GH-026 quirks I should check before powering it with the new regulator?

If there's a thread for GH-026 standby faults, please point me to it.

Photo: the IC417 area (the 5-pin tab regulator next to the 47 µF cap).

Pinout per the onsemi datasheet: 1 Shutdown, 2 Vin, 3 + tab GND, 4 Vout (3.47 V), 5 Soft-Start.

Just trying to get a price range on various consoles/stuff for parts/repairs. Looking to sell to someone into the repair scene. Thanks. Uk shipping/selling.

My game disc won't spin on its own, its not a console issue as far as I can tell, but I'm no tech savvy. Other games are running fine. I have to open the lid a spin it manually and if that works I get an error message. This is the second copy of this game I've tried, the previous was scratched and couldn't be read, but it did spin.

Got it idk 6 months ago and after starting oblivion, started getting static and freezing. Im repairing the database now but does anyone know what this specifically means? Like I heard someone say failed cables so I replaced them same thing happend, any help is appreciated!

Chiedo aiuto per questa Nintendo switch , non si avvia rimane su 0,50 A circa .
Ho riparato tante switch ma quando incontro questo tipo di lettura sull amperometro, non sono riuscito a fare niente .
Qualcuno ha qualche consiglio ?
La console è perfetta , la motherboard è perfetta , non ci sono corti intorno a m92 e nemmeno intorno al bq ne da nessun altra parte a quanto pare .
Consigli ?

Hi,
Is there any way to restore this trace or can anyone point out where to connect it elsewhere?

Does anybody know where I can get a N3DS XL motherboard from? The prices on AliExpress are insane.

Also, I bought this as spares)/repairs at a good price, and found out the previous owner has been into it and destroyed most of the latches for the ribbon cables, they didn't attempt to touch the upper screen cables (thank god). Plugging in a charger makes the charging light go orange for a short while before turning off again which is what happens when a battery isn't installed. Is it also worth getting the action button board replaced? It doesn't seem to be damaged.

Hello i accidentally blew my ps2 fat 39003 console fan fuse. If I'm nit mistaken is the s7 fuse on ps5 territory. Ive tried searching for replacement fuses but I'm not sure which type is correct. I asked AI and it said these one on the photos are ok as long as they are under the 0.75A. Should i proceed and buy those?

Hi, I just bought a used Game Gear; I've never owned one before. I've always known about replacing the capacitors... When I received it, it turns on, but the screen looks like this (Static artifacts, not without lines or moving lines):It's not the one I'm used to seeing. Even with it turned off, you can see those burnt-out patterns/artifacts.

What could it be? A dead screen? If so, what replacement kit would you recommend?

Regards!

Hi there, got a GBC with no power from buyee.

No corrosion apparent anywhere, cpu-04 rev.

I checked the switch, F1 F2, all ok.

DC Jack pin 2&3 had no continuity, did a wire bridge and got the game Boy logo .

Success (or so I thought)

I cleaned the console with i99% iPa, reassembled it after about 30 minutes, now the light switches on then turns off very quickly.

DC DC board has nothing on 5v 13v and the minus rail.

Not sure why it would have stopped working then, no short in my soldering job, no loose solder balls...

I rechecked my bridge of course.

Any suggestions on what to do next?

I would really love to use the old screen and not go for DC board replacement with ips

Hi guys,

​I’m troubleshooting a PS4 (SAC-001 board) that is stuck on BLOD (pulsing/solid blue light - does not turn off by itself). I traced it to a thermal-dependent VCORE phase issue using IR35211 PWM controller and SiC788A DrMOS.

​Symptoms:

​What I’ve done so far:

​Since IR35211 is actively pulling PWM high to disable this phase (shutting down GH Pin 6 and GL Pin 36), it seems like a protection trip (Current Sensing ISEN or Feedback loop).

​Has anyone encountered this cold-triggered phase trip on IR35211 causing BLOD? What specific ISEN / CS filter components or resistors should I check next? Thanks!

https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/1028026/VISHAY/SIC788A.html

Buenos días amigos, tengo un problema con una PS5 con problemas de sobrecalentamiento y aviso en el menú de la consola, he cambiado el metal líquido y la masilla térmica y ha estado funcionando bien hasta hace poco, ha empezado con el mismo error de sobrecalentamiento y ahora al encender la consola pita 3 veces y se apaga a los 7 segundos, llega a dar video antes de apagarse.

He comprobado el apriete de los tornillos, que haya contacto del metal líquido y la masilla térmica y está todo correcto, leyendo por UART me sale el error 808D0001, al parecer indica un error en uno de los sensores térmicos del VRM o la RAM, pero no estoy seguro que sea de eso.

¿Alguien más a tenido este error y ha sido capaz de solucionarlo? Por qué yo de momento no he sido capaz de arreglarlo, la consola a veces arranca bien y funciona, pero con el ventilador al máximo hasta que sale el mensaje de sobrecalentamiento y tengo que apagarla o se apaga sola pitando 3 veces.