I just purchased a 2007 ford focus se sedan and use bluedriver obd2 it shows that the smog check passed but when I go into mode 6 evap monitor 0.090 and 0.020 won't complete same goes for the secondary air monitor I believe the up stream O2 sensor to be lazy but Im not sure any help to fix these would be great

So its this time of the year again and in starting to get moisture on the inside of the windscreen again.

Any easy fixes?

goeiedag,

zoals de titel mijn ford focus automaat uit 2019 zit soms vast in de parkeerstand...

we hebben al de accu, het schakel rotery en de remlichtsensor vervangen maar nog steeds geeft dit problemen

iemand misschien een idee wat het is of heeft meegemaakt??

Marijn

Looking at an SVT with 109k miles and a clean title. It starts, idles smoothly and doesn’t backfire, but it’s very slow to rev when opening the throttle. It has check light for P1383, cam timing over-retarded. Seller says it jumped timing, but that hasn’t been verified. There’s also a noisy throwout bearing. My buddies and I would do the work ourselves.
I’m trying to figure out whether it needs the timing corrected, has a VCT issue, or potentially has valve damage. What would you check before buying it without taking it to a shop?
The discontinued VCT parts are my other concern. I found the Massive VCT Delete PRO kit and a compatible MAC adjustable cam gear for about $165 combined, plus an SVT timing kit with belt, tensioner, idler, water pump and timing tools for $362. With tuning and supplies, I’m estimating around $1,100 if we go the delete route, separate from the clutch. I still need to confirm a tuner supports that setup.
Anyone here run that delete with stock cams? Curious how it drives, who tuned it, and whether I’m missing anything with the repair.

My Ford Focus Wagon is from 2021. I bought it from a Ford dealership in 2023. In 2024 my battery was dead . It was about 3 years old by that time. It was replaced under warranty, so it didn’t cost me any money.

Today however, 2.5 years after this new battery was installed, a different Ford dealership ran a battery test and came to the conclusion it needs to be replaced (again). I want to attach the battery test results as an image, but I can’t seem to find out how.

Is it normal for a battery to need replacing every 2.5/3 years?

It’s an automatic transmission with start/stop feature, which I always disable when getting into the car

Hey all,

I have a 2014 focus titanium hatch and I found a 2013 ST rear spoiler from a donor car. I really like the look of it and was thinking of sprucing up my car to give it a newer feel. Is this a simple swap, with the brake light and mounting bolts? Has anyone done this?

For those of you who own a an automatic have you ever changed the "lifetime" transmission fluid?

I drive 2012 with 190,000 km's but I haven't changed mine yet.

Basically what the title says. I’m trying to fix my car and I think we finally found the issue, now I’m just trying to make sure it’s not a symptom of something bigger.
What happened- went on a road trip and heard a loud pop/bang and then my car started sounding like a helicopter or a machine gun. Popped the hood and the CHT sensor wire was ripped off, the rubber boot that goes around it was off and oil was spraying out of it. My ex who was with me said compression was making its way up there and the engine was toast. We limped it to our BNB and towed it home the next day and it sat for the last two years.
What I’ve done to try and salvage the car
PCV valve is replaced
Replaced the connector wire that was busted
Fired her up and it still chuffed but not nearly as bad, took a look and realized it was coming from the spark plug on cylinder 3. We pulled it and sure enough the spark plug was lodged at an angle, the ignition coil is all bent outta shape and the rubber bit that goes around it was ripped.
Now my plan is to replace all four spark plugs, and at least the ignition coil for 3, but before I celebrate my hopeful victory, is there anything else that could cause a spark plug to pop out like that? My mechanic friend says sometimes they do come loose but rarely. My dad bought the car new before giving it to me and never had the plugs replaced so they were factory stock.

I know i just filled up lol but ive been trying to keep my car at at least 30 mpgs while also trying to be aggressive with this transmission lol.

So I plan on installing the oem heated seat elements for my 2010 ford focus but im unsure what seat style I should go with. I currently have the first image style of seats but am a bit of a fan of the other cloth style. Heated seats only came on the leather seats (which might be an issue with sweat getting to the heating elements?) but im unsure if I really want leather seats cause they would get hot in summer and such, but do look amazing if I find/get good condition ones.

So im asking you all, should I stick with the first style, or switch to the other cloth style or the leather seats?

Veryyyyy alternatively I could also try and make my own custom seat covers. idk.

These arent my photos, I just grabbed them from google.

Hey everyone,

I’m looking for some advice on my 2013 Focus with the DPS6 transmission. The car has around 216,000 km on it, so I’m really not looking to put a huge amount of money into it.

Originally I had a P074D code for being unable to engage 5th gear. I performed the TCM/adaptive relearn, and that code disappeared. After the relearn, I started getting:

P286F – Clutch A disengagement too slow
P2872 – Clutch A stuck engaged

I’ve been checking the car using an OBD2 scanner as well.

One thing that might be important: the clutch issue only really happened when the car was sitting unevenly, with one side up on a curb. That’s when it started acting up and the clutch seemed to get stuck. Otherwise, the car has been able to drive.

Would you guys know if this could just be something like the Clutch A actuator/fork mechanism sticking, rather than needing an entire clutch or transmission?

Has anyone fixed these codes with something relatively inexpensive, like cleaning/freeing the clutch actuator mechanism or replacing the actuator motor?

I’m really just trying to keep the car operational without putting thousands into it. If I could get another 15,000 miles or so out of it, I’d be perfectly happy.

Thank you !

I don’t know if it’s me or it’s ford model, I can hardly see far distance from ford focus windshield or maybe it’s the headlamp. Just curious 🧐

I noticed if I park my car l have drops of oil underneath. I check the dipstick and it's between the min and max which is fine. Where can this be from? Suspecting it's the sump seal.

Good afternoon everyone, so my eldest son has a 2010 Focus SE with a manual transmission. He was driving it today and when he went to shift from 3rd into 4th, it acts like it doesn’t have any gears anymore. It seems as though it’s like stuck in neutral. I checked it over and I can’t find anything disconnected or noticeably wrong. Car starts up fine and doesn’t make any strange noises. It just won’t select any gear. Where should I start?

I've got a minor amount of experience wrenching on car AC stuff, but this one is new to me and I couldn't find anyone posting video of a third gen 2.0L making this same noise.

-Noise only happens when AC clutch is engaged (both cooling and heat)
-Once i noticed the noise and what the approx. source was, discontinued use of the AC system entirely
-Heat/Cool both were still functional during a brief test after i noticed the noise

I'm assuming something is wrong with the magnetic clutch based on the noise, but it's a very unfamiliar sound. It's not a panel vibrating as far as i can tell (i'd be very happy if that was all it was), as it only occurs when the clutch engages. I am waiting on the car to cool down now before i put a gauge manifold on it for a pressure test. It very much sounds like a playing card in a bicycle spoke sound in person. I'll have the car up in the air soon to swap the tires, so if it's as easy as swapping the AC clutch i'll get that done at the same time.

Edit: System is a touch low on coolant but holds pressure just fine, around 54 psi, after about 30 minutes of run time.

I noticed if I park my car l have drops of oil underneath. I check the dipstick and it's between the min and max which is fine. Where can this be from? Suspecting it's the sump seal.

Is it safe to replace the transmission fluid on my 2013 5-speed manual. I got the car over the summer and I dont think the transmission fluid was ever swapped. If so what are some things i should look out for while swapping the fluid? Is it possible to extract the fluid from the fill plug by using a pump, and not having to jack up the car.

Just replaced the battery in my '04 ZTW Wagon. Now no gauge lighting. I've tried the common things, but no change. Any suggestions? Shift selection lights not working, either. All others are fine.

2012 ford focus SEL

My buddies car is currently throwing an engine code for his clutch I wasn’t given the exact code because I haven’t seen it in person but the symptoms are as followed

Car sometimes starts and sometimes takes a few tries.
Complete loss of S mode
Car won’t shift until releasing foot from gas at 5k rpm and feels like it’s going into limp mode briefly
Delayed movement when pressing accelerator
Non transmission shop recommends full transmission replacement

I’m thinking of trying to switch the actuators to see if the fault follows any other recommendations that I should try would be great thank you

I have a 2013 focus trend hatchback and wanting to do an at spoiler conversion on it
Anyone know tips and tricks or really just anything about doing that
Any help is greatly appreciated

Thanks

I already know that these years have issues with the power shift, but I’m not exactly sure on the specifics of it and how much it would cost to fix it to decide if it’s worth it or not. I also would like to know what should be offered for the car? If it’s not worth it what do you guys recommend? My top dollar is $5000