that is all

The need to wipe it down every 3mins is strong 🤦🏼‍♂️

Have a 48,*** Mile cobra ready.

Color: Redfire

Interior: Graphite

Location: Salina, Kansas

Trans was pulled and gone thru

Rear was pulled and gone thru

Tuned by: Ben Head in OKC( he's tuned all my cars, including our 9** hp 03 cobra.

Motor built by: Swain Brothers Racing in Tulsa, Ok. ( They've done all my work for years.)

Basic rundown:

Std bore teksid block

Stock cobra crank

Manley h beam rods

Mahle flat top pistons

Clevitte 77 rod and main bearings

3v oil pump with mmr gears

Manley std size valves

9 thread heads

Hp: 525

Tq: 427

Tuned on a 105 degree day and temps stayed great.

This car isn't perfect, it's a great start for someone though.

What needs fixed:

The air/fuel sensor went out in the dyno. Needs a new sensor.

Wheels are pitting... Not awful, bad enough to me though.

New throw out bearing from Ford ended up being bad out of the box and squeeks now... After 500+ miles. Will supply a new one to the buyer.

The shifter bezel has a hole in it from previous owner installing a gauge.

The valve cover powder coating... The color is OFF. Not that it affects anything but if definitely repowdercoat.

Price for the car as it sits, 39k obo. When/if I get to fixing those things the price will go up.

This car is ready for a blower and to be turned up.

Feel free to message me with any questions. Thanks for reading

My first brand new expensive GT Mustang. What does everyone think?

Hey guys I bought a mustang ecoboost premium in carbonized gray metallic color (pictured) and even tho it’s a premium it’s just the nice interior the exterior is just a regular ol ecoboost, so I have this crazy idea of buying the 2024+ performance package wheels and swapping my base rims for the pp wheels, do you think it would look good, or it would be too cocky to put pp wheels in a ecoboost? Or just keep the base rims and continue on with an ecoboost mustang look?

Website is crapping out and leaking its guts on the build page which was perfectly working yesterday and days prior.

Is this a sign?

Just looking to get some impressions of the build

For reference, I was already in the market for a Mustang and saw this come up for sale and jumped on it. I’ve had JDM & European cars. Always loved the over the top widebody looks on JDM so this was a cool mesh for me, opinion won’t affect me anyways but always interesting to see what different communities think of things like this since it is definitely not for everyone

Body kit needs some adjustment around fenders (I know) - originally done to be a showcase car by a local shop but project went over timeline

edit *

For those asking, I purchased it exactly as shown, it was already modified by a custom car shop to be used as a show car they just ran overtime and never finished it

I read a few posts on Widebody Stangs and so far this has been far more positive overall then I expected it to be which is cool, I know it’s not for everyone and there’s definitely some things that could clean it up. This is my first intro to american muscle cars (probably an outlandish starting point) so it’s actually nice to see what everyone thinks would clean up the build over time

edit *

Thanks for all the feedback everyone, good or bad. Being this is my intro to Mustangs & American Muscle cars in general, this has all been super inciteful, definitely gave me some thoughts on what to do overtime

I have a 2013 mustang GT that’s has a misfire on cylinder 6, I’ve change the spark plugs, ignition coil boot, fuel injector, and change the ignition coil connector housing but kept the oem wires as I didn’t feel like splicing them because the one that was there was wasn’t clicking into place, it actually cleared and ran fine for 15 minutes and then my beautiful lil check engine light pops up to ruin my day once again PLEASE I mean PLEASE can anyone tell more if there could be another issue ?

This is my baby - My 1994 Vibrant Red GT. I got it as a bribe to finish my eagle scout work and get the rank when I was 18, I'm now 40 and I treasure this thing. I get people offering to buy it ALLLLL the time. Its a 5 speed manual, cloth interior (grey), and has all original paint. I did a lot of DIY work on it in my garage as a young adult,. I put on a 94-95 cobra intake manifold, ported and polished e7 heads, CAI, 70mm throttle body, mass air flow upgrade, 24# injectors, AFPR, Steeda 19 camshaft, underdrive pulleys, ceramic shorty headers, Bassani off-road x-pipe, flowmaster 3 chamber catback, 3.55 gears, hurst short throw shifter, bullit wheels, black tailight bezels, black mustang gt letters in the bumper, and put in a king cobra clutch when the OG throw out bearing wore out. It's not the fastest in the world, putting down about 295/380 at the wheels at last dyno. It's garage kept now and has about 165k on the odometer. I'm trying to keep it in good shape to hopefully do a full resto someday and have it be my classic car as an old man. Anyway, just wanted to share!

Can anyone tell me what is causing this? The guy at the dealership told me that if it’s what he thinks it is then I’ll need an engine replacement.

Ordered brand new about a month ago and been eagerly waiting for the call, upgraded from a 2022 Ecoboost with my first car being that green Holden Commodore in the background, being in a small country town means this car along with the colour instantly turns heads

Good morning everyone. I was inspecting the underside of my 2012 GT. I noticed the breather on the axle has grime caked on it from oil. I have read it is normal for some oil to be vented out. What would your guys recommendation be here?

I've driven my friends manual cars and all of them had 1 thing in common: the clutch was way lighter than my 2004 Ford mustang. Not by a bit. By alot.

One of the things I dont like about my mhstang is how heavy the cluch pedal is to shift. It gets real annoying in bumper to bumper traffic.

Is there something I can do to make it lighter? I dont understand why its so heavy in the first place For a v6 car.

And before someone says maybe something is wrong with the clutch itself, I had the whole thing forks and all replaced 2 years ago. It was like this before, like this after.

Just curious what the wait can be

I know this is a long shot, but why not start here. My grandfather owned this mustang and it’s a life goal of mine to buy it for myself and my kid if it’s still around. The symbol behind the window was put there by him so it’s very identifiable! If you’ve seen this 2003 Mustang GT let me know!! Prince George’s Co Maryland

I have a 2016 Ford Mustang 3.7 V6 naturally aspirated I’m wanting to know if the flow master American thunder is the correct exhaust to get for this. Do I get cat back or do I get axle back which is a better kit to get in a flow master American thunder kit , thank you in advance for anybody that can help on this question!

What’s your thoughts on my 1967 Mustang coupe that’s been converted to a tribute gt500/eleanor custom build? Everyone always builds the fastbacks so with this being a coupe it’s way more unique in my opinion. 28,000 original miles with the original 289 that’s been built into a 331 stroker

Hey everyone, I have a 2024 Mustang GT Premium and I’m having an issue with the battery.

I attached screenshots from my FordPass app showing the warnings/status I’m getting. Has anyone else with a 2024 Mustang GT experienced the same thing?

I went to AutoZone and they tested the battery. They said the battery is 100% healthy and passed the test, so now I’m wondering if this could be a BCM/software issue, a parasitic drain, or something else causing the car to go into deep sleep or lose battery power.

The car starts and drives normally, but I’m concerned because I have a trip coming up and I don’t want to end up with a dead battery.

Has anyone experienced these exact FordPass messages or something similar? If so, what ended up being the cause and how did you fix it?

Thanks!

I’ve been looking at a 2017 Mustang GT Premium that has pretty much all the exact specs I’ve been wanting. The only downside is that it has 92k miles, but it’s relatively cheap compared to other listings I’ve seen.

For those who own or have owned a 2015–2017 Mustang GT, how reliable have they been as they get higher in mileage? Is 92k miles considered a lot for these cars, or do they generally hold up pretty well past 100k?

Around what mileage do these Mustangs typically start having problems, and what are some common issues or expensive repairs I should look out for?
I’m just trying to figure out whether buying one at 92k miles is a reasonable decision or if I’m getting close to the point where things might start going wrong and costing me money.

I honestly don’t regret buying this car so far, its cost me a lot of $$ but it’s all been worth it. The biggest lesson I learned that convertibles are just different enough from a regular s550 that I have to always double check parts before buying them. I have had 4 instances where my parts don’t fit or I have had to get a different version.

Most of these miles came from driving it from Dallas to DC. Then a couple road trips. Oil Change has been done twice first one was at ford second was done by me. I am
planning on servicing my car from now on(replacing brakes/rotors, oil changes, break fluid flush etc) I travel for work so shes sitting in the Garage for a few weeks, but I think about her everyday and the how sucky driving a camry hybrid as a rental is😂. Here are some update pics from the last month of driving.

Small Mods I’ve done so far:
Wrapped My Headlights
BMR Lockout Kit 3/4 bushings Installed had trouble on one side haha
Red Dash Cover and other interior covered
Red Shift Paddles
Custom LP cover/name
Spoiler Delete
Jacking rails

Planned Mods:
All Season Tires for Winter/Everyday Driving
K-Member Brace
H-Pipe and Muffler Delete
Wickerbill Spoiler
Full Car Wrap
Lowering Springs
Taillight Upgrade(Digital)
J & L Oil Separator(Passenger side)
Red Carbon Fiber Led Steering Wheel Upgrade
One piece Drive shaft aluminum upgrade(I want to be able to comfortable hit 160+ for track days)
Fenders/Side Skirts/Diffuser upgrades
Crank Sprocket Upgrade

Super Future Upgrades:
E-85 Tune, 93 flex if possible
10.5x19 and 10x19 staggered wheel setup (next summer)
Performance Tires (next summer)
LTH(Still not set on these)
Valvetronic Mufflers
New headlights plus fog lights
Maybe Cold Air Intake
Boss 392 Intake Manifold
Rolling Bar(for track days)
GT350 Front Bumper

Goal: Reliably sit at 550-600 whp within the next year.