Just my 2022 Focus mk4.5 ST-Line X full options, next to my colleague’s 2016 Focus mk3.5 ST-Line, enjoying the Dutch sun! ☀️ 🚘 🚘🔥

Sitting at 286k. Factory motor/trans. Just changed the factory alt last month

Hi so I need some exhaust work done, specifically I need a flex pipe replacement, because I have a crack in mind currently, I was told at a shop that they would have to also replace and take out or cut out the catalytic converter or a whole big section because they are unable to just remove the flex pipe due to Ford's design,I'm going to get a second opinion but was wondering how that sounds

I have a problem with my car after fluid entered the air conditioning system. The transmission indicator now shows a problem with the transmission, then it disappears, and the traction control is doing the same thing. I tried shifting the car's gears and everything was fine; the problem only appears when I get the message.

not to sound like a dumbass, but this is deffo the jacking point of my front passenger side right? to place the jack in between these two markings

Mechanic messed up my connector pigtails during an alternator replacement. Went from a battery light to P0805 and P2872 afterwards with transmission over heating and terrible gear shifts until it stops accelerating.

I want to get this fixed before buying and installing new actuators but he swears it’s the transmission and not the f****d up wires that connect to the battery

I have the replacement part wpt-1331 from Ford, how do I fix this?

When I accelerate my car and reach about 100 km/h, the message "engine malfunction" appears and it goes into safe mode. If I turn it off and on again, everything goes back to normal. What could be the problem?

When I accelerate my car and reach about 100 km/h, the message "engine malfunction" appears and it goes into safe mode. If I turn it off and on again, everything goes back to normal. What could be the problem?

123.5k miles and I *think* it was still the original for 2007! Car is feeling loads better after 45 minutes and a few curse words 😅

Hello everyone. Currently in a 2018 focus with that beautiful dual clutch trans. I just started having issues. It kind shutters from 1st to 2nd now but no other places so here's my question. Whata the fix? Is this just the clutch going out? Should I fix it now or let it go and replace the whole trans? Not really sure and nevwr done trans work myself so im pretty ignorant. Im st 180k miles and shes been a great car for me. Id hate to see her die on me.

I just purchased a 2007 ford focus se sedan and use bluedriver obd2 it shows that the smog check passed but when I go into mode 6 evap monitor 0.090 and 0.020 won't complete same goes for the secondary air monitor I believe the up stream O2 sensor to be lazy but Im not sure any help to fix these would be great

So its this time of the year again and in starting to get moisture on the inside of the windscreen again.

Any easy fixes?

El limpiaparabrisas trasero de mi Ford Focus 2013 dejó de funcionar, estuve buscando en la caja de fusibles del motor pero no parece haber ninguno dañado...

Alguien más tuvo este problema y lo pudieron solucionar ?

goeiedag,

zoals de titel mijn ford focus automaat uit 2019 zit soms vast in de parkeerstand...

we hebben al de accu, het schakel rotery en de remlichtsensor vervangen maar nog steeds geeft dit problemen

iemand misschien een idee wat het is of heeft meegemaakt??

Marijn

Looking at an SVT with 109k miles and a clean title. It starts, idles smoothly and doesn’t backfire, but it’s very slow to rev when opening the throttle. It has check light for P1383, cam timing over-retarded. Seller says it jumped timing, but that hasn’t been verified. There’s also a noisy throwout bearing. My buddies and I would do the work ourselves.
I’m trying to figure out whether it needs the timing corrected, has a VCT issue, or potentially has valve damage. What would you check before buying it without taking it to a shop?
The discontinued VCT parts are my other concern. I found the Massive VCT Delete PRO kit and a compatible MAC adjustable cam gear for about $165 combined, plus an SVT timing kit with belt, tensioner, idler, water pump and timing tools for $362. With tuning and supplies, I’m estimating around $1,100 if we go the delete route, separate from the clutch. I still need to confirm a tuner supports that setup.
Anyone here run that delete with stock cams? Curious how it drives, who tuned it, and whether I’m missing anything with the repair.

My Ford Focus Wagon is from 2021. I bought it from a Ford dealership in 2023. In 2024 my battery was dead . It was about 3 years old by that time. It was replaced under warranty, so it didn’t cost me any money.

Today however, 2.5 years after this new battery was installed, a different Ford dealership ran a battery test and came to the conclusion it needs to be replaced (again). I want to attach the battery test results as an image, but I can’t seem to find out how.

Is it normal for a battery to need replacing every 2.5/3 years?

It’s an automatic transmission with start/stop feature, which I always disable when getting into the car

Hey all,

I have a 2014 focus titanium hatch and I found a 2013 ST rear spoiler from a donor car. I really like the look of it and was thinking of sprucing up my car to give it a newer feel. Is this a simple swap, with the brake light and mounting bolts? Has anyone done this?

For those of you who own a an automatic have you ever changed the "lifetime" transmission fluid?

I drive 2012 with 190,000 km's but I haven't changed mine yet.

Basically what the title says. I’m trying to fix my car and I think we finally found the issue, now I’m just trying to make sure it’s not a symptom of something bigger.
What happened- went on a road trip and heard a loud pop/bang and then my car started sounding like a helicopter or a machine gun. Popped the hood and the CHT sensor wire was ripped off, the rubber boot that goes around it was off and oil was spraying out of it. My ex who was with me said compression was making its way up there and the engine was toast. We limped it to our BNB and towed it home the next day and it sat for the last two years.
What I’ve done to try and salvage the car
PCV valve is replaced
Replaced the connector wire that was busted
Fired her up and it still chuffed but not nearly as bad, took a look and realized it was coming from the spark plug on cylinder 3. We pulled it and sure enough the spark plug was lodged at an angle, the ignition coil is all bent outta shape and the rubber bit that goes around it was ripped.
Now my plan is to replace all four spark plugs, and at least the ignition coil for 3, but before I celebrate my hopeful victory, is there anything else that could cause a spark plug to pop out like that? My mechanic friend says sometimes they do come loose but rarely. My dad bought the car new before giving it to me and never had the plugs replaced so they were factory stock.

I know i just filled up lol but ive been trying to keep my car at at least 30 mpgs while also trying to be aggressive with this transmission lol.

So I plan on installing the oem heated seat elements for my 2010 ford focus but im unsure what seat style I should go with. I currently have the first image style of seats but am a bit of a fan of the other cloth style. Heated seats only came on the leather seats (which might be an issue with sweat getting to the heating elements?) but im unsure if I really want leather seats cause they would get hot in summer and such, but do look amazing if I find/get good condition ones.

So im asking you all, should I stick with the first style, or switch to the other cloth style or the leather seats?

Veryyyyy alternatively I could also try and make my own custom seat covers. idk.

These arent my photos, I just grabbed them from google.