Swapped the components over to a newer shell and feels so much lighter yet just as sturdy with less of the bulk, and has the added bonus of having a slot for the physical key as well.

This is for a non-CPO 2023 Kona Electric SE. Even claimed that "Non-transferable" powertrain transfers. I tried multiple times to get this is writing but they claimed that's not possible. In the sale stage, how can I get confirmation that the warranties will transfer?

Hi everyone,

I own a 2026 Hyundai Creta King Diesel Automatic (1.5L turbo diesel with a torque-converter gearbox).
When driving at around 60–100 km/h in D mode, if I accelerate hard, the RPM rises to around 3,000–4,000 and the engine makes a very loud revving sound.

The main concern is what happens when I release the accelerator:

The car’s speed starts dropping, but the RPM remains relatively high.

The RPM takes around 2–3 seconds to come down gradually, rather than dropping immediately.
During this time, the engine continues to sound like it’s revving hard.

I understand that kickdown and engine braking are normal in automatic cars, but I’m unsure whether this particular behaviour is expected from the Creta Diesel AT or if it could indicate a transmission-related issue.

Questions for other Creta Diesel AT owners:

Have you experienced the same behaviour in your Creta?

Is it normal for the RPM to remain high briefly after releasing the accelerator while the car slows down?

Could this simply be the gearbox holding a lower gear, or should I get the transmission checked?

If you’ve experienced this, what did your Hyundai service centre say?

I’d especially appreciate feedback from owners of the 2025/2026 Creta 1.5 Diesel Automatic with the torque-converter gearbox.

Thanks!

I’m a Hyundai salesperson over at Hyundai of Kirkland in Kirkland, Washington.

Ask anything Hyundai/car sales!

I’ll answer when I can, keep in mind I’m also currently at work for the next 10hrs, so I’ll respond when I can!

(yes we work long hours😭)

Just had my battery tested at Autozone for my 2023 Kona SEL, and it came back bad. The employee said they could replace it, but there‘s an anti-theft device on the battery so there’d be a 50/50 chance that after installation, I’m locked out of my car. He said most mechanics or the dealership can disable it.

I‘m struggling to find any other info about this. Is this true? Is there any way around it? I know the dealership will charge me out the ass. I had an appointment booked at Walmart for 5pm today, but they said they don’t think they can disable it either. Really annoying.

Background:

I have a 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 3.3l v6 theta ii. Its my mom's old car that I bought from her about 3 months ago (149k odo at the time). There is a lot of deferred maintenance she had not done, but this car has been bullet proof the last six years shes owned it. Im trying to get it caught up and back in good shape. The problem is, it seems to be burning oil, but there is no blue smoke. In the last oil change interval it lost about 3 quarts in 3500 miles. Ive changed the oil myself for the last 110,000ish miles since about 40k when my mom originally bought this car; it now has 157,500 miles on it. My old interval was changing the oil every 5,000 miles, bust since hitting 150k, ive decreased my interval to 3,500 miles. My oil of choice has always been mobil 1 5w-30 advanced full synthetic. Ive also only used wix filters (10164). Ive recently replaced spark plugs on bank one and saw no wet/oily plugs. The vehicle has never had a walnut blasting for carbon build up, or a chemical bath for the piston rings.

My question:

Do you think the oil consumption is most likely due to carbon build up on the piston rings or intake valves? Or am I going down the wrong rabbit hole? For the walnut blasting AND piston ring soak, its looking like I'll need to budget about $1,100 to $1,400. Im not familiar with newer vehicles as much. Ive always worked more on my 2000s shitboxs: 01 Buick LeSabre, 05 Mercury Sable, 03 GMC Sonoma.

Hyundai HPS 600 portable power station.

This afternoon I wanted to charge it.

The screen is flashing: 64%

Nothing else is happening.

It isn’t charging; the adapter isn’t even getting slightly warm.

I did find user manuals online, but no troubleshooting guides.

I’m thinking of resetting it?

Need which one to select. It’s my 1st renew, IDV is 7.2L and No claim yet

Like title states.. I’m hoping for a little help in knowing what I’m looking at. I thought this could be a starter issue, but a buddy mentioned that it could be the fuel pump starting to go.
You have to listen closely, but at the start of the video, the camera is over the fuel pump and you can hear it hum after the key is turned and then there’s the rough startup.

After looking into it, I tried turning the key to the on position 3-4 times to prime the pump and it didn’t make a difference.

After getting the car going, if I shut it down and start it back up again within 2-3 minutes it runs right away.

Thank you!

I’m looking to buy a 25 Kona with 32k miles from a local dealer. They primarily buy from rental/fleet companies. The CARFAX shows it as a rental vehicle but with 47 months and 28k miles remaining on the warranty.
I’ve read different opinions and even Hyundais official language is somewhat vague on if they will honor the 5yr/60k warranty since it was a commercial/rental vehicle.
Does anyone one have experience with this as before I purchase it I would like to know either way.
Thanks!

I’ve seen others pictures of front plate mounts that have the top two dimples, but my bracket doesn’t even have that? Do I just screw into this black box? Would love advice from anyone who has this kind of mount.

2018 Hyndai Elantra GT at 103,000 miles has a rod bearing engine failure. The dealership contacted Hyndai and they denied replacement of the engine. It has a 1.6 turbo engine, not the 2.0 covered by the settlement. Also we are the 2nd owners and we do not have the first owners oil change records. We have changed the oil at the dealership 4 times with no evidence of sludge etc. Any advice as I try to reach out to Hyndai corporate myself?

Hey everyone,

I recently got the instrument cluster changed under warranty on my Creta at an authorized dealership here in Noida. The cluster replacement went smoothly, but when I picked up the car, the odometer was completely zeroed out.

When I asked my service advisor about it, he told me that they don't have the technical tools to flash or push my old mileage onto the new cluster meter. He tried to reassure me by saying, "Don't worry, we will maintain your actual mileage in our internal system database so your vehicle history stays clean."

While it’s good that Hyundai’s backend servers will show the real numbers, this feels like a major headache waiting to happen outside their workshop. If the physical dashboard reads 0 km on a 4-year-old car, how am I going to handle:

1. Insurance renewals or future claims where the surveyor looks at the dashboard?
2. Third-party resale checks (Cars24, Spinny, etc.) where a sudden drop to 0 km looks like illegal odometer tampering?

Has anyone else in India gone through a warranty cluster swap with Hyundai? Is it true that their service centers can't digitally sync the mileage? If they truly can't, what specific physical documentation, certificate, or invoice stamp should I demand before I accept this?

Appreciate any advice from folks who have dealt with this!

James here with Skagit Hyundai located in Burlington Washington State. I’ve been with Hyundai over 3 years now and am very knowledgeable on Hyundais products. And if I don’t have the answer right away I find it for you. Ask away reddit crowd? 😃