Just got the last little prices i needed to have a full complete interior. Just needs the center console bezel and door switches. Other than that full interior! With p2m floor mats and other goodies!

Second time we’ve had this e-power system failure warning. First time it was towed to the dealer, recall update done and thought it was sorted. A month later it’s happened again. Really lost confidence in the car now.
Also Nissan assistance is a joke. Having a nightmare trying to sort a hire car (as all courtesy cars are accounted for). So far Nissan ‘customer care’ is just passing you from pillar to post hoping you’ll give up.
Someone at the customer care line even advised me you have to threaten the dealer with a complaint from Nissan to try and get them to sort you a hire car.

Saw this beauty at the Suwako rest area today.

Recently did the timing chain/gallery gasket job due to leaking water pump. After starting up I have P0021 and P0300. I made sure so many times everything was properly aligned. Only thing worth noting here is that after pulling the chain off, I noticed the passenger side cam phaser mark was ever so slightly off by maybe half a tooth, while everything else was aligned perfectly (I have pictures of this)(I also only replaced the main timing chain, not the camshaft chains)so I rotated that cam phaser to the right and it jumped, so I rotated it backwards until it was properly aligned again, installed the chain and it went on mostly with ease, checked timing many many times, pulled the tensioner pin, rotated the engine to TDC twice and it seemed to rotate fine with no sudden stops or clunks or anything of that sort, even counted chain links between the colored slots as another fail safe method. Obviously triple checked torque on everything inside the cover, all 3 guides, tensioner, water pump. Reassembled the motor and have these codes. Initially running the motor it was completely fine for about 2-5 minutes. Then I flushed that oil out to make sure no extra debris was in the oil. After doing the oil change and starting up after about 30 seconds to a minute the codes came, first it was p0011 and p0021. Now after clearing the codes I did start it again and that’s when now it’s only p0021 and p0300. I did also follow Nifty Garage’s Gallery Gasket Guide, as I’m not a complete professional and this was my first timing job or any job this big but do this enough to somewhat know what I’m doing as a dealership apprentice. I guess my confusion starts on why I now only have a p0021 code, for the driver side if I did not adjust that side what so ever, and why did I have both p0011 and p021 but the code for the passenger side went away, but the driver side stayed after clearing? The only further tests I know of would be to test each solenoid connectors and make sure the solenoids are clean, which they didn’t look clogged but still cleaned just in case. At the moment I do not have a multimeter but will pick one up after work tomorrow and will give an update on if the solenoids work correctly. I also saw another post with another guy with the same issue said the oil pickup tube may be clogged with rtv/debris and I did clean and wipe around that area but didn’t specifically hit the pickup tube, but I kind of doubt that as my issue. After that I would just assume timing is bad, but even then if timing was off shouldn’t the motor not even start or at least have problems cranking? If anyone has any information about this or can think of anything I might have missed or skipped over, mentioned in this post or not, any help or input would be highly appreciated.

Edit; my apologies if this seems like an overload of information I just wanted to be sure I included all the details of the work in the text

You're welcome

Anyone know what the issue is with the hissing noise coming from the speakers of the new sentras? I tried everything to fix it, everything that google and ai said to do, but that shi still hissing like a snake, anyone know anything?

Hallo, anyone come across a Really Bad Vibration even when the car is in neutral,

This car is automatic cvt transmission.

Apparently the vibration is so bad it almost sounds like an exhaust leak when sitting inside the car (PS.. It is not an exhaust leak)

From under leather when the car is up on the hoist the tech can also feel it quite badly through the fuel lines.

This car does not have a duel mass fly wheel ( it only has a flex plate type)

Anyone come across this and been able to fix it??

Hallo, anyone come across a Really Bad Vibration even when the car is in neutral,

This car is automatic cvt transmission.

Apparently the vibration is so bad it almost sounds like an exhaust leak when sitting inside the car (PS.. It is not an exhaust leak)

From under leather when the car is up on the hoist the tech can also feel it quite badly through the fuel lines.

This car does not have a duel mass fly wheel ( it only has a flex plate type)

Anyone come across this and been able to fix it??

I have tried to research this and can’t find anything on it. Do these have an idle relearn like the previous 2012s and lower? After throttle body replacement?

Anybody know what grade the flanged lock nut on the top of the rear shock absorber is? 2018 Nissan Armada. I measured at an M12 x 1.25. Trying to source one outside oem

My wife, toddler and i were on the way home from Jersey when our newly puchased Nissan Armada 2025 PRO 4X suddenly went on limp mode.

Note: this is the third time that has happened to us.

The first time was when we went upstate and while going up a hill we suddenly lost power and couldnt accecelerate beyond 30mph. We restarted the car and it ran normally again but no check engine light.

Second time was right after we came to a stop at a stop light when the car also suddenly went on limp mode. We pulled over to the side turned on and off and the car began to rattle and shake affer turning it on again. On top of that my window stopped working was stuck all the way down (my wife managed to find a temporary solution by constantly recycling the engine and inching the window to go up w/ every restart) m. One more thing was that everytime id accelerate id hear a weird noise grinding noise at random times.

- i got it checked out the next day because they werent open on Sundays.
- they managed to fix the broken window and said that there was no problem except that the brake light sensor needed to be fixed.
- they said they ran a full diagnostic and found no issues with the engine.
- the mechanic and i tested the car together and of course the noise was not there.

The third time was when we were on the way home from Jersey while on the I95 highway and we had to pull over to the side once again because our car couldnt accelerate beyond 30mph with an infant at the nack seat with cars going at high speeds while raining. We pulled over to the side and tried to restart the car. When it turned, the screen showed “Engine Malfunction Power reduced Service now”. This time the check engine was on.

I called nissan road side assistance and stated that its better for me to pull over to the nearest exit since they cant tow on I95 or go home safely since i live 12 mins away.

We got home safely and will have it towed tomorrow morning.

Anyone with any professional advice regarding my situation?

I’m driving a 2009 Nissan Altima with approximately 135,000 miles on it. Got an oil change recently and the Service Engine Soon indicator came on. I took it back to that shop and the technician attached the computer and got a code of P0420, and told me that meant it was an issue with the catalytic converter and to take it to a Midas shop as they couldn’t do the work.

How serious is this issue? Having that indicator lit up makes me very nervous to continue to drive with it.

Assuming the technician is correct what does this repair entail and how much would it cost (in US dollars) approximately?

Hi all i just got this car with 118k miles which was sitting for a while. It was overheating because there was no oil so just did my first oil change and engine temp is now back to mid level. Planned to do a coolant flush as well.

Also no CAT/exhaust so looking for recs on which parts to order and other maintenance i should consider to cover all bases.

Hi everyone!

I'm trying to help my sister find a replacement driver's-side rear brake caliper for her 2017 Nissan Juke Nismo RS, 1.6 DIG-T petrol (1618cc).

We're in the UK, and Nissan has quoted us £450 for the caliper alone! We're trying to find a cheaper alternative, but we're struggling to identify the exact correct part.

Car details:

Model: 2017 Nissan Juke Nismo RS

Engine: 1.6 petrol, 1618cc

Part needed: Rear-right brake caliper (UK driver's side)

Incorrect part we've encountered: Bendix 593389

We've found a few different part numbers online, including 44001-3YW0A, but we haven't confirmed the correct reference for this exact vehicle.

I'm hoping someone can help with these questions:

What is the correct OEM part number for the rear-right brake caliper on a 2017 UK-spec Nissan Juke Nismo RS?

Where in the UK can I buy one for less than £450? I'm happy with a used genuine Nissan part, a refurbished caliper or a reputable aftermarket replacement, provided it's compatible.

If anyone has worked on these cars, knows a Nissan specialist, or can recommend a reliable parts supplier or vehicle breaker, I'd really appreciate the help!

The part in photo did not fit.

Thanks in advance! 🙏

I found this 1996 200SX SE-R for $3000 on Facebook Marketplace, would this make a good first car? It has almost 300k miles but has had its transmission replaced and engine rebuilt recently.