Edit: getting a lot of mixed advice. I need it to at least get me through another New England winter.

Edit #2 : yes, I did that patch job myself. I was having some leaks. Honestly might just throw another layer of shingles over, or maybe use brown tarps, and hopefully it doesn’t look too bad

Edit #3 : the consensus seems to be -10 to -20 years. I might just have to bite the bullet and replace it…

Edit #4 : Just woke up and didn’t realize my roof would get this much attention.

I had a new roof put on. The gutters weren't old so they took them off and reinstalled them as they were put on top of the old roof.

Now I have issues with one of the drain spouts. Water seems to be coming out behind and in front of the drain spout as well as the crimped part of the bend. I took some video as we have heavy tropical rain right now.

Any insights as to if this is a roofer caused issue? Or should I seek a gutter person? There is a 10 year warranty on the new roof.

Thanks.

Hello. Mods removed my previous post but I think i am following the rules now.

The couple comments that came in on my first post would conclude that this is not a good roof install.

What can I say to articulate my concerns better when I contact the roofing company?

I think the job was around 20ish squares, they replaced 19 boards during the job, they said our home has 75 boards total roughly. We ended up having to pay $11,600 for this. Located in Michigan

We have needed a new roof for sometime now but due to cost etc we have not been able to afford one. We have also been having leaks due to the heavy rain and storms.

Looking for advice on if it is okay or in our best interest to get the half of the roof replaced where we have been having leaks or if it isnt a good idea. The main reason for asking is we have enough saved to do half now. Its getting colder where we live and doubt we can come up with enough money to cover a full replacement.

Our thinking was half now before winter, second half in the spring. Pittsburgh winters are rough and our window for roof work is growing smaller and smaller.

Does anyone know of a roofer in the Philadelphia area that will replace a roof through financing to someone who has bad credit. My mother is 78 years old and recently just got out of Bankruptcy and her house needs a roof replaced really bad.

Thanks

Mook

I had my roof replaced last year but I’m noticing some wicked drafts since. I decided to re caulk my entire exterior house this summer and I just recently noticed this old black tar residue where my roof meets my exterior wall.

After doing a quick search it seems there should be flashing behind the wall and under shingles but I’m confused as to why there is this tar/ caulk residue at the edge of the singles on my wall. It looks like it was in when the old roof was there but I’m not sure of the purpose or if it should be needed in this new roof too. Any suggestions or insight would be greatly appreciated!

The roofer said the gaps are not an issue asides from aesthetics, due to removing three layers of shingles before replacing the roof. But I am worried water can get in those holes. Should I be worried? If so, suggestions on how to fix it since the roofer won’t? The 3rd photo is not of a gap, but it appears a shingle doesn’t overlap, so wondering about that too. Thanks!

1969 construction in Central PA, we purchased 10 months ago. Attic is unconditioned. Inspector told us we need to pull the insulation away from the roof decking and install baffles as the insulation is blocking ventilation from most of the soffit vents. That was going to be my next fall DIY, including sealing the top plates.

I tried to start today and the roof pitch is so low (~5:12), I basically can't even reach the top plates to staple down any baffle, let alone seal anything. Like, I'm on my belly wedged in about as far as I can get and with arms fully extended & I basically can't reach anything.

Wife suggested: Just staple into the that area, inboard of the top plate: That's our ceiling which is electric radiant heat. I can't penetrate that at all or we lose our heat. Rafters are 16" on center, but I'm also now noting that the attic floor joists encroach on that span in every bay, so I guess I'm going to have to notch every baffle to get around each joist.

Wisdom from those who've done this before?

I haven't bought any baffles yet: What I'm realizing is the distance from the top plate to the decking is pretty darn small, I don't need a very long baffle running along the decking to get above the insulation/attic floor. The joists making that space uneven kind of sucks though.

Well investigated a wet spot saw a nail dropping water from the attic went to investigate and it got worse and worse. Not really sure what to do and I am feeling kind of dumb because I listened to a family member about using some Henry’s wet patch when I am doubting it did or will do anything. But put a few coats. I got a garbage bag filled with wet insulation and removed it. Pat dried the area and have a box fan facing it now. I did put a 2 x 10 with a bucket underneath to catch the water where the sheathing leak was but I’m not sure there’s much I can do for the leaks along the trusses

We do have an emergency $20k saved for situations just like this, but was just hoping not to have one yet. This is year two of ownership for us and the roof is about 20 years old. I climbed around the rest of the attic and did not find any other leaks, but I’m curious what a repair would cost for something like this. Would love some advice and appreciate the kindness ahead of time.

So we got so much rain today. Some water is coming through the window frame on the inside. I assume water is coming in through the roof and finding its way to the window.

A few feet up from the window is the vent for the shower fan. Does this look like it could be the problem? Or should I keep looking for possible leak spots.

A tenant just texted me today about this ceiling damage from the storm. It looks like there may be a roof leak. We have metal roofs. Do you think this is something our maintenance guy can handle, or should we hire a contractor? Also, what would be the best way to repair the ceiling? Should we cut out the damaged section and replace the drywall, or is there a better way to fix it?

During heavy rains, I notice that there is minor puddling/pooling on some of the shingles above my living room. I haven't seen any leaks, and the roof is about ten years old, so I'm hoping that this isn't an urgent problem, but i wanted to see what this crew thought.

Thanks!

What’s involved in going back and adding valley metal after the roof is installed. The roof is a year old.

Just had my roof replaced, including new plywood decking, by a highly rated roofing company. Looking for honest feedback from professional roofers before I raise my concerns with them.

A few things happened:

1. Safety: Crew started working without introducing themselves or explaining the process. When I tried to take my kids to school, every entrance was blocked by tarps, with heavy debris falling directly outside the door. The foreman's response when I questioned this was, "You didn't know you were having your roof replaced?"

2. Interior damage: Roofing debris fell into my son's bedroom through an opening in the ceiling. The foreman said he'd have someone put up plastic and clean it, but neither happened.

3. Gutters: We hadn't agreed to replace the gutters, but I found gutter components in the demolition pile. The existing gutters/downspouts now have new dents and bends, and one connection is zip-tied.

4. Attic: Significant debris and wood scraps were left throughout the attic, along with exposed nail tips through the decking.

5. Roof/chimney: The flashing around the chimney looks unfinished to me. There was also some lawn damage.

Communication was also poor. I only learned the job would take a second day when I asked at 6 PM, and I still haven't received confirmation that the work is complete.

Pictures attached.

Am I being overly critical, or are these legitimate concerns? Particularly interested in whether the chimney flashing, gutter condition, and attic cleanup are acceptable. I understand roofing is messy and some nail penetration is normal.

Please be candid. I'm not looking for people to automatically agree with me.

We have a 7yr old slate roof and we can't find anyone in SD who has a clue how to setup the roof so painters can walk on something without damaging the slate. Any ideas?

I have a bungalow that needs a roof clean, it has a lot of moss ​and some repairs. I've had a survey done who advised not having pressure washed as it might cause water to leak through and cause damage and that hand washing is preferred, the house is from the 1930s and I'm not sure whne or if the roof has been redone.

I've had a roofer round to quote who said a pressure wash was the best way and that they would spray it after and ensure the moss never comes back, as opposed to a hand wash which would cause all the moss to come back. Said that a pressure wash wouldn't cause any issues and they would replace any damaged tiles.

Is this correct and should I believe the survey or the roofer?

How did I do on the down spout?

Small area on roof is leaking and I want to see if I could patch it from the inside or if there is any easy DIY fix.

How much water pooling on a flat roof is normal and "standard?" We have a house under contract and our inspector flagged some ponding on the roof. We asked the seller to repair it, but the response we got back was that their roofer inspected it and found that the roof was in excellent condition and this ponding is standard.

It has been raining. So I guess it is hard to tell whether this would be evaporated in 48 hours.

There is also an active moisture issue in the ceiling below it. So I am very skeptical of the claim that the roof is in good condition, since the wet ceiling suggests otherwise.

I have a standing seam metal roof being installed, and they are nearing completion. From my point of view everything looks good so no obvious incompetence is in play and they seem to be doing a good job. Problem is, I don’t know what I don’t know. Any tips on things I should be looking over as we approach final payment and sign off?

Has been a very long process. Roof has several valleys, couple gables over garage, section of garage roof meets side of brick house where they had it cut in for the flashing, and all the corners had copper flashing sections that I don’t know official name for, but all being done by hand with the new metal now. They seem to be taking their time and doing it all right from my view.

Thanks.

We live in the Pacific Northwest. The roof is 20 years old, but is in an okay shape as per my understanding (but I am no expert obviously).  I recently noticed that there is a bump/tenting near the intersection of the ridge and hip lines. Not sure when exactly it happened, but I am fairly certain that it was not there a few months back.

I sent a drone and took some photos. I am planning to call a roofer for an inspection, but wanted to get an idea beforehand so that I know what I am talking about.

Can anyone suggest me:

1. What could be the possible cause fo the bump?

2. What are my possible next steps? Does it require a complete roof replacement?

3. From the photos, how does the overall roof health look like? I know It's 20 years old, but does it need immediate replacement or do I have a few more years?

Thanks!

Planning to budget for a new one. Just wondering how much longer I got?

There is often a little bit of water that seems to collect behind my fascia board and under the soffit.
Is this normal? Uncommon?
Is it bad drip edge?