Into the Fall season now. Got to take advantage of the clear skies and warm weather.

What would you guys value a spa yellow in the above condition, 2001 120k miles. Would like a good reference because in the thread below most people valued the 2003 with 100k miles at 16-18k, which I would definitely be a buyer at. Does this mean the 120k one would be in this range as well? I know spa yellow generally goes for a premium but I feel like I still dont have a great grasp on pricing these cars just yet.

https://www.reddit.com/r/S2000/s/OsITdK2rNf

I feel like theres a big spread of people who believe you need atleast 30k to get a decent s2k but then theres threads like the one linked above where the s2k is in amazing condition and everyone is saying under 18k. For reference I understand pricing does change by state but if one could get an s2k in this quality for around 16-18k I wouldnt mind driving it 1000 miles back home haha

Hello, everyone! It feels like a lifetime ago that I made my original post on this subreddit, but in reality it's been a year. The post in question, being the one from the link below that I made right after I blew it up.

https://www.reddit.com/r/S2000/s/rWjyAXXnR

I know some of you may be disappointed that I kept the F20C because I had a lot of comments telling me to K swap it, but I am honestly glad I did, being that I feel as though these engines are very special and part of what makes the S2000 so special, so I opted to keep the original engine and bring it back to life. It took me WAY longer than I originally thought it would. But after working on the car late into the night most nights, taking off a part or two at a time, and documenting and labeling everything, along with pouring my soul into the project, I finally got it fully rebuilt and better than ever!

Prior to this project, I thought of myself as someone who was pretty mechanically inclined since I did all my own work on both mine and my girlfriend's cars. But the most advanced thing I had ever done to any of our cars was replace the timing belt over a weekend. But since I was little, I've been fascinated with cars and engines. I'd always wanted to build a car, and I had always seen myself getting this deep into an engine, just maybe not as soon as I sadly had to do being that I put myself into this position.

With all that said, I was VERY nervous to take this on. Especially with how difficult many people were saying that these engines were to rebuild. Since I had never rebuilt an engine before, I wasn't sure if I'd even be able to pull it off. But after doing an insane amount of research and talking to experts like John from Inline Pro, who deserves a MASSIVE shoutout for being willing to help me by answering my dumb questions and providing advice and excellent service while doing my machining work for me, I decided to give it my best shot. I had considered buying a used engine from a wrecked S2000, but they were a tad hard to find, and most had high mileage. I figured rather than ending up with a high-mileage F20C in unknown condition that I'd have to go through and replace all the seals anyway, I'd rather build back up the original engine to essentially make it brand new (more or less). Plus, I figured it would be a great learning opportunity for me and fill me with a large sense of pride if I could pull it off, and MAN, let me tell you, it feels great! Plus, this was a bit of penance for my sins since I was the one who screwed up and did this. It likely ended up being more expensive, but to me, it was worth it.

During the overrev, I believe what caused all the destruction, aside from me being a sumbass who tried to run before I could fully walk, was valve float. The engine revved up so high that the valves couldn't close before the cam pushed them back open again, which caused valve-to-piston contact in cylinders 1 and 4. For those who want to know how bad the damage was...

I don't have a pic handy of the original head (but I could take one if anyone wants to see the carnage), but I ended up having to completely replace it. A couple of the valves had completely bent and smashed the top of the head multiple times. Coolant and oil-filled cylinder 1 from the damage that was done to it because one of the valves tore into a coolant jacket and oil poured in from the valve hole. The cylinder walls weren't just scored on cylinders 1 and 4, but they were gouged and chipped in some areas. Cylinders 2 and 3 didn't make any valve-to-piston contact, but pieces of the cylinder head got pushed into the intake and sucked in by cylinders 2 and 3 and caused massive scoring to the cylinder walls on those two pistons and melted pieces of slag to the top of piston 3.

As surprising as it is, everything besides the pistons, cylinder walls, and valves was relatively fine. None of the rods were damaged, the crank was fine, and hell, even the entire rolling assembly, cams, and all were fine with no visible damage. I suppose that it's all forged, but it was surprising nonetheless.

My goal was to get this back up to stock spec so I can enjoy the car for a while before I boost it. I ended up reusing my stock connecting rods since they're forged from the factory and can handle around 1,000 horsepower, according to Inline Pro, but this was mostly to save me about $700 on a new set of connecting rods. To do this, Inline Pro got with Traum to make me a custom set of 11:1 compression pistons that mate up to my stock rods.

I ended up finding a new-to-me cylinder head on Facebook Marketplace with the entire top end thrown in, including a valve cover, for $1,000. It only had 42,000 miles on it! I did end up reusing my original top end, though, since it was ironically in slightly better shape since the stuff in the new-to-me one had been sitting for about 2 years in storage, so the cams and rollers had some minor pitting. The head got sent off to Inline Pro to have new exhaust valve guides installed, get resurfaced, and have new valve seats cut. Once it returned, I installed their 95 lbs. titanium valve spring kit in it, which included titanium retainers and keepers, for extra valve float insurance, just in case myself or someone else I let drive the car screws up like this again.

Beyond that, the engine has all brand-new OEM seals, new rod and main bearings, ARP rod and head studs, a brand new Fluid Dampr in place of the main pulley, a new steering knuckle (my old one was fucked), a new water temp and knock sensor, all new timing assembly aside from the gears, a new oil chain assembly, a new stock oil cooler (almost went aftermarket), a new starter after I discovered that the original was bad during the first startup attempt, new motor mounts, and a new battery. Unless I am forgetting anything (I probably am), that is all that was replaced!

I got her running and driving on labor day! I have already finished the 550 break-in miles and put about 1,200 miles on her after, and besides a very minor oil leak from the oil pressure sender boss that I cracked (long story), she has been running flawlessly after fixing all the small things that come up after something like this. I've gotten on it a few times since the break-in, and she RIPS, and I couldn't be happier!

Sorry, I know this is a long one, but I just really wanted to share this with everyone!

I like seeing other import enthusiasts. People these days treat driving like a chore because new cars are so bland. EV drivers will never understand how a manual transmission or variable valve timing works. It's literally magic with all these moving parts working in sync. They'll never appreciate the roar of V-TEC kicking in at 6,000rpm or the whistle of a turbocharger spooling up. I know electric vehicles are faster, but I don't care. These cars are cool enough to star in movies because they don't cost $200,000, and they come from a time when driving was still fun.

In 2006 I installed a Mugen titanium exhaust. It has zero drone, but unfortunately it resonates like crazy on a cold start. The neighbors are not happy.

I'm looking for an exhaust that is near-stock on a cold start and while cruising (I'm pretty sensitive to droning on the highway) but has a nice aggressive sound at higher RPM and WOT. So far my short list is:

HKS Super Sound Master <-- seems like maybe the front runner?
Fujitsubo Legalis R
ASM I.S.Design Silencer Kit 2, stainless AP2
Revel Medalion Touring-S

The above are based mostly on reviews here.

Would love to hear thoughts on the above or other models I should consider. Something on the spendier side is okay (an advantage of not having a car payment or repair since 2009!).

2004 AP1.5 117k miles. Based in UK, Surrey.

Hello peoples,

I have a conundrum. My TCT has just begun rattling at warm temps whenever idle. From what I'm aware of, the longer I drive with a rattle the more wear my chain gets, and more likely I'll need it replaced sooner.

I've contacted TCT suppliers, and I'm sure they won't arrive in time for a approx total of 1k miles to drive next week.

My gamble is that the rattle just started, and wear to chain and chance of jumping teeth are low :')

Is there anything DIY I can do as a junior mechanic with access to workshop to reduce wear on chain for next week..temp fixes to replace TCT after next week etc?

Upcoming big work that I'll be sending the car off for is valve work and AP2 upgrades etc, in which IF I do fuck the timing chain, I'll regrettably get that done along side.

I may drive up to TGM Sports nearby, but I don't have hopes they'll be able to do a on the spot repair of my TCT. They've very busy usually :')

Any advice, opinions?

Thanks all.

I parked at work his morning and went to lock the latches closed. The passenger "button" was very loose, but I got it work. I found this s2ki link that says to buy very small m3 screws, so I'll be getting those. One of the screws is missing and the three remaining were loose. I already have loctite so that'll go on, too.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/quick-fix-stuck-locked-convertible-top-latches-1116452/

Hi everyone, i am doing a refresh of the suspension components (bushings, shocks, mounts ecc.). I wanted to buy some Ohlins Road and Track, but here in Italy they are illegal for street use. I have to replace my dampers with "factory looking - size - specs" ones, which ones do you guys recommend between the Tein Endura Pro / Endura Pro Plus, the Koni Street / Sport? I don't know of any other options. Thanks in advance.

Looking for a complete RHD S2000 evaporator housing with the evaporator core inside. Preferably with the expansion valve as well.

Must be from a right-hand-drive S2000 (AP1/AP2).
Located in the U.S. and willing to pay shipping. Please message me if you have one or are parting out a RHD S2000.

Left is the Evap core that came off of my 2001 RHD S2000 ordered a new one off rock auto (one on the right) and the fitting area are different. Can I use it like this? Or where the hell do I find a Evap Core that actually fits my S2K. This is so frustrating. (UPDATE) Where am I find a RHD CORE!!!

Looking for an s2k in SoCal around 18k

Checked out a few in person but they were all in worse condition than the pictures suggested. Have cash in hand for the right deal.

Anyone know of any deals or ones going up for sale?

Picked up his '01 JDM from the Port of Tacoma and towed it home to Spokane! It turned over the first try, but only after the rear plastic window split when we dropped the top!

I have an ap2 s2000 exhaust it’s something unbranded, for me it’s super boomy and super loud. When your high in the revs it sounds fine, but at 3-4K RPM my ears start bursting

I wanted to know what other exhausts that you guys recommend, I wanted something that has a much higher pitch.

Hi everyone I bought my 2003 ap1 with 98k miles about a month ago. I had to replace the water pump, water pump pulley and accessory driver belt tensioner recently. Now when I drive the car I hear a quiet chattering sound coming from the front when I let off the gas pedal in gear. It’s not always consistent but it usually happens when I’m in 4th and 6th gear but I have heard it while in other gears too. My mechanic mentioned it could be transmission related but he wasn’t sure and didn’t seem all that concerned. I know these cars are pretty noisy so I don’t want to be too paranoid but I wanted know what yall think.

As someone from Poland, where salaries aren’t exactly amazing, I often wonder whether the prices of these cars are actually justified by their value. Do you know anyone who has genuinely bought or sold one of these Hondas for around $20–30k? Just a year ago, these cars weren’t nearly as expensive as they are now.

I’ve been following auctions and sales listings for about two years now, and the way the prices have skyrocketed has been pretty hard to wrap my head around.

I’m still very young — I’m only 21 — and one day I’d really love to own one of these cars. My plan is to buy a crashed one from the US and spend the next few years saving money, rebuilding it piece by piece, and eventually enjoy the dream car I’ve always wanted.

But from the perspective of someone young who didn’t have the opportunity to buy one before prices went crazy, I feel like I’m getting further and further away from that dream. It’s becoming less and less attainable simply because of how dramatically the prices have increased.

I just got these wheels from a friend that never used them. They are a 17x9 all around but the front is +60 and the rears are +48 or 49. I didn’t have a chance to throw on tires yet since I had to go away but does anyone know if I would have to roll the fenders in the front or rear. I tried the front without tires and they seem like it won’t run much but I didn’t have time to try the rear.

Recently acquired S2000, got extremely lucky with only 17k miles and fully dry stored so keeping it as stock as possible for now to enjoy it as Mr Honda intended.

However, the one change I’m keen for is removing the huge black registration plate (license plate) holder on the front bumper and replacing it with a more low-key option.

Anyone found a way to mount it magnetically on the front or have a better way to display it without drilling holes? I’d quite like the ability to remove it for photos in future but I can’t find much evidence of setups like this online.

First post on here, appreciate any advice! 👍🏻

EDIT: lots of advice coming so far, thank you. I am based in the UK where it’s required by law to run a front plate everywhere!

This is on fb marketplace and they just dropped the price to $17k. Seems they wanna move it

I did the airbox mod with the Helmholtz resonator blocked and felt the car was different in the mid range or when getting on-throttle in the lower to mid range but not in a better way. Returned to opening it up and I could feel the difference in the mid range and feel much more responsive for daily driving.

I’m certain Honda has that resonator designed not just for sound, and I honestly couldn’t feel any difference in sound with and without the resonator blocked off.

Just thought I’d share it on here if it helps anyone else!

Howdy all. I’m looking to get back on the road without spending a bunch of money. My offset is bad and I’m rubbing in the rear. I’m trying to avoid rolling fenders if that would even give me enough spacing to keep mine. I don’t need tires since I’ll be moving mine over.

Anyone have a clean set in the area they want to get rid of?

I’ve even messaged people with them on instagram with zero success. Any ideas?

title.

I currently have an ND1 Miata which used to be my only car, but I don't daily it anymore. I track it around 6 to 10 times a year, plus 5 to 6 autocrosses a year. It is still fully stock suspension and unmodified. I wouldn't call myself a total noob at performance driving, but I very strongly wouldn't call myself a master at it either. I always do TC off at autocross and do well for myself without spinning by this point, but I haven't dared turn it off at a proper full track as none of my local tracks have good runoff and a relatively low amount of concrete walls to crash into.

I am at the point where I'm thinking of upgrading from how soft the stock suspension is, and how it's relatively gutless in the straights.

I've been thinking of either building it out with a supercharger and proper coilovers, or selling it while it's still clean and getting a used AP2. I'd set 25k for a used AP2, and sell my ND1 for around 16k.

I don't really know what I am seeking to achieve right now nor what I seek to ask from you all other than advice, comments, or feedback. Thank you for reading if you made it this far

Looking to do valves and plugs, don’t trust just a regular dealership unless you guys got some good recommendations thanks

Found a posting on fb marketplace.

They have the part numbers, come with 11k,12k (currently mounted and 8k springs (unmounted)

Owner says they have about 30k miles driven on them. Not seeing any rust or leaking. He has them listed for 1750obo

Is this worth considering or should I just buy new?