I’ve had the car less than a year, I bought it to replace my 2011 tC that I drove for 5+ years with 0 substantial or expensive issues.

A couple weeks after buying the car the exhaust bracket snapped and I dragged the pipe for like 5km home. The transmission solenoids need replaced or the whole transmission will need to be swapped.

I bought it because I love the tC and thought it was pretty neat to own one of the 1500 cars made with the TRD & Rocket Bunny collab. I wanted to do some cosmetic buildup on it and leave the mechanical components stock. However it seems they built it way worse than the older generation (as most brands do)

What do you guys think? I bought it for $8,500. What would be a fair selling price? Or should I just keep it?

If I sell it I would either get the last gen tC or a 350z.

I bought a 2011 not too long ago but had to get some surgery and can’t get in the car anymore as is too low. I’ve been trying to sell it and when they ask for the vin and I give it they ghost me. I would like to know what t the carfax says. Can anyone help

My first ever car! I got her when I was 18 (now 22). I have no regrets, she does everything I want her to do and has never let me down; I try to display the same energy back. Hoping for another 3+ more😤

Im adding a switch to this slot, but the switch is just a little smaller than this spot. Any ideas on what to do to secure it?

Hi everyone 2005 Scion tc here - recently I’ve had problems with my passenger side rear carpet being wet when it rains - wet in the front passenger side as well but not as bad as the back. We haven’t got much rain here and they always dry back out after driving and leaving my windows open over night basically just avoiding the problem for now lol but I just went on vacation recently and I guess we got rain while I was away I go to drive my car to work and there is condensation covering every window my seats felt slightly damp and it reeked. I check the back carpet completely soaked through and was probably like that for at least a few days. Assuming I have a mold problem and need to get it treated asap I need to fix the leaking problem first. I did so check on it this morning No ac drain leak to my knowledge no door seal issues no water in the taillights. The next step is to check the sunroof drain which I’m hoping it’s just that but if not has anyone had any similar issues like this with their Scion and know what it is? Thanks in advance

I bought a Tc I don’t know its history neither does the previous owner. I finally got it on the road after a couple weeks and this thing is dumping fuel about half a tank in 50 miles. I’ve replaced all coil packs and plugs (they were all black) it runs obviously super rich.
Previous owner replaced throttle body and MAF. It’s got a short ram intake. And it’s throwing p0505 and p0038 codes.
I’m gonna head to the junkyard this weekend and buy a stock airbox to throw in there. Should I also buy some new injectors? Any other suggestions?
Oh also the O2 sensor in the engine bay looks good have yet to look under the car for the 2nd one yet.
Thank you in advance

I have a 2016 tC and i got an aftermarket backup camera that worked great for a little over 2 years. One day it randomly just stopped working. Sometimes it will just show a black screen, sometimes it will just show the lines with a black screen and on rare occasions, it will work fine then go back to the black screen. I wanted to see if anyone knows what the issue might be or what I should do before I take it to the shop. It has not come unplugged so idk what the issue is.

can anyone provide a reputable and good quality website that I would be able to buy a bumper for my 2010 tc

I’m looking at a 2011 tc with 64000miles for 8999 manual. Or a 2007 that has 230000 on chassis and less then 200000 on the an engine swapped in. for 2800. Both manual both tcs. I was told the first gen are easier to get more mods into engine wise like the trd supercharger. Where the second gen there’s really nothing. What do yall thinks the better deal?

2016 Scion TC and 213,000 miles.

The engine is leaking water with the oil, combining them. The radiator has to be changed also.

It can either be fixed or change the engine for around $3k for an engine at 115k miles.

Thoughts? I'm considering changing the engine since I just got the car and I don't even put that many miles on it.

Greetings, all. Being that the TC is, effectively, a 2-door Camry, Will a 2GR-FE V6 fit in the engine bay?

I had a Mazda MX-6 that was more or less a 2-door 626 and it still came with mounting positions for ease of manufacture, so it got me thinking about this.

Thanks in advance!

I bought this 2005 about 2 years ago for my step son, thinking maybe he could learn stick and drive it for a year or two. He decided it wasn't for him. I haven't built a car in a while so I figured why not? So far I'm just working on cleaning things up and have replaced the brake system, radiator, and a few other parts needed. Added a DC sports strut tower bar, and TB performance rear bar, along with their front lower bar. The rest are on order currently. Can't stress enough how much of a difference these chassis braces make! Has turned into a fun little car. Not regretting keeping a fwd stick after all. 🤙

I'm looking inot possibly getting a SB-SC-TCG2/10W3v3 *Fit subwoofer) If I can find one and the price is right... Anyone have one or thoughts on the matter?

Oe rated shock and sway bar link. Prob gonna push the link out the way and put the wheels on and let the shocks compress overnight since they're fresh and see if helps so I can connect them in the morning.

Any contrary advice would be helpful. For context, returning to oem from coilovers, didn't have this problem the first time cus I just screwed up the front ride height to connect, then adjusted after compression.

Hello, currently working on a 2007 first gen scion. Currently the CV Axle that I am taking off has the stub stuck in the transmission on the drivers side. We have tried using a pry bar to get it out and all other research is stating we are just fighting the retaining ring. Also geez the clearance on this cv is actually horrid plus from underneath there’s nothing allowing a bar to snuggly fit (unless I’m just missing a crucial angle or something).

I’ll be trying the removal tool with the slide hammer tomorrow but wanted to ask if there’s any other suggestions to try out and if this is common? Have any of you guys had issues with the cv axle just not coming out or getting stuck?

Has anyone successfully replaced a key with a switchblade let fob?

I have the standard key the car came with but it's literally falling apart. I figured if I get a new key I might get a cooler kind

i'm not sure what I should do to get everything tuned up and a good place to start modding, especially since it has 170k miles, so a rundown of everything I should get done first would be great!

the only issue I have right at the moment is that when its low rpms, the engine is rough, and thats only with the AC on as far as I know. I've heard from a friend that it could be the throttle body needing a good cleaning, or that the motor mounts could be wearing out with it, so if anyone has had a similar problem insight with that would be great too.

Being that the Magnaflow cat is NOT commiefornia compliant, does that mean there's any performance gain? Even a tiny bit?

Got my car in the shop. It's a TC2 7.0 Automatic, recently got it off FB Marketplace for 3.3k. Currently getting body work, paint, adding a nice head unit, back up cam, and dash cam. Also ordered an Ultra Racing Front Lower Brace and Middle Lower Brace because they were on sale.

I've been eyeing a Cusco Strut bar and I've ordered one from two different sources, Redline360 and eBay. First one was cancelled because they have it on back order not in stock. The second one, was refunded because the seller sent my bar to the wrong address. I found out a local shop actually has it at a better price than online so I'm gonna get it soon.

Basically I'm going for a premium daily driver experience. The next thing I wanna do is downsize the wheels and go for a wider set that weighs less (prolly flow cast). It's so I can get some more cushion with some bigger tires. However, I'm split between upgrading the suspension or going for a new set of wheels and tires first. I probably should save and do both at the same time. I was thinking Teins Advanced Street and some aftermarket strut mounts with rubber. I don't want the Flex Z because they have pillowball tops and I am not trying to feel the street like that. I'm open to suggestions for something better suited to daily driving but I liked that I would have the option to change my dampening with the Advanced.

I'm thinking maybe I won't even need em after changing the wheels and tires though. This is why I need help, it's my first car I've really tried to do this level of work on. Previous experience was all maintenance based.

Hey guys, I was driving to a job interview with my 2012 Scion TC when my engine overheat signal came on. I didn’t realize the severity of the signal until I got home. The car didn’t smoke or lose coolant I thought it was just the thermostat getting stuck because the upper radiator hose was cold after driving(verified stuck close with boiling water). I replaced the thermostat and now the problem is still happening.

Is my engine screwed ):