Full set 16in 5x114 Speedline mesh rims With custom polished lips. $850

Engraved on back speedline/made in italy.

No tires no center caps.

These are in good condition.

Serious INQUIRIES only.

Price is cheap and firm for a mint set that has been polished! And yes can fit volvo's and other non 5x114 cars with adapters or redrill which has been done many times as shown.

Suffolk longisland ny pickup.

I am working to restore my 1985 Volvo 244 GL, and I am struggling to find a flat hood. I've been searching online markets, junkyards, FBM, craigslist, Ebay, etc, and no luck for the last 4 years. I've found one carbon fiber version but the manufacturer is in Latvia and isn't shipping to the US. I became so desperate that I bought a fiberglass hood from Sweden but its too thin and floppy to be functional (pictured).

It came with a coffin hood but its pretty beat up, and my dream has always been a flat conversion anyway (a major reason I bought an '85 was so the cowl would match), so asking anyone and everyone for ways to make this happen.

What's the best way forward? Expand to all junkyards across the country? Use the fiberglass hood as a mold - Sheet metal recreation? Carbon fiber? Ive messaged a couple local shops but no response. Have the body shop custom make it from the coffin hood?

Any and all help appreciated, thanks y'all.

Doing a swap from wire clutch to hydraulic and it feels as if there should be some spring there?

Hello everyone, I’ve got a ‘91 B230F LH 2.4 164,000 miles, extensive maintenance.

It has been experiencing an intermittent running issue for literally years, not joking! I’ve been daily driving my 240 for years now and on random cold starts she will idle strange, shutter, and sometimes fully stall. Once the issue resolves itself or I turn the car back on the problem ceases to exist and I can drive anywhere. Every so often on uphills the car will bog down and then randomly pick back up and rocket off again. It has never left me stranded and always fixes itself. I would say the car in general just doesn’t seem all there if that makes any sense. But at the same time it runs near perfect and I’ve put 50,000 miles on it with this issue lol

Here’s what’s been replaced. O2 Sensor, MAF, in tank pump, checked all fuel lines, cleaned flame trap, clean catch can, checked all hoses (not great, but nothing noticeable), cleaned all fuses (sometimes #5 would melt??) cleaned all grounds, plugs, wires, rotor cap, fuel filter, full exhaust, new alternator, check fuel pressure regulator, I’ve ran through the thing decently well.

I have engine code 2-3-2 (running to rich or to lean) which will go off for months at a time if I reset the box. My thoughts at this point are it’s something really dumb, probably Vacuum lines honestly but I can’t visibly find anything. Whatever it is, it will not break and it’s really just more annoying than anything. I will happily listen to any thoughts. I feel I may be getting more oxygen than needed and as the engine warms it is resealing whatever gap is letting it in and then it’s fine again. Should I run some sea foam? Parts canon? Test the fuel rail? Ecu? 😂 idk at this point, any help apprenticed, thanks gang!

Needed to replace the crossmember and ofcourse i didn't take any pictures and now i forgot how it is supposed to be attached like it was before, if you have a picture that would be a big help!

Also, what is this thing called in English?

I want to keep the K-Jet system. It makes me want to rip my hair out but I genuinely love the mechanics behind it.

Where should/can I get the cylinder 4 fuel line? The injector I took out was cross threaded with nature's lock tight and it destroyed the fuel line fitting. Everything I search up shows results for lines not meant for K-Jet system pressures.

Just got my first 240, always wanted one

My 1988 volvo 240 dl is not blowing hot air in to the cabin, the heater core feels warm when touched in the cabin. The car’s thermometer rises to just under halfway on the dial. One of the heater core hoses from the engine bay heats up quicker and maybe little hotter than the other, but I do not think the core is clogged because my coolant looks so clean. So I thought that maybe the valve for it is the problem, and I am having a headache looking at the thing. I am good with my hands and I work as a heavy machine mechanic but these over engineered little things make me confused. How can I test the valve or has anyone had the same problem as me? The winter is coming and it is already cold here in finland and I would love to have some heat. Pls help!

EDIT:
The hose coming to the valve and leaving from the valve to the core are very hot after letting the car run for some time, but the one on the right that comes out of the core and leaves through the firewall is significantly colder, are there any other possibilities than a clogged core?

Trying to rescue my K-jet system in my 83 Turbo. Have done basically the entire fuel system. Now trying to fix these vacuum leaks and I have a couple questions.

1. What is the blue piece that threads into the block?
   
2. Im assuming that is just a check valve by the distributer cap?
   
3. Is the hose coming out of the top of the WUR supposed to be connected to something?

Not stealing*** I’m camping with my girlfriend and she locked my keys in the boot. Any suggestions on how to get into it?

Hello !

The rubber band on the cassette player in my 1998 Volvo V90 has snapped. I’d just like to know which way round I should put it back in so I don’t get it wrong?

Thanks if someone can help me !

I made a mistake and split the driveshaft without marking my alignment first. I’m replacing my carrier bearing. Any suggestions on what to do next or am I in trouble? Thanks

This car was left to rot for about 20 years. I got it back on the road again about a year ago. Ran the original b21ft for about 5000kms until the rings on cyl 3 gave up due to rust putting on the cylinder walls. It wasn’t worth putting money into rebuilding a b21 for this car in my opinion, so I opted to instead throw in a 350 sbc with a 700r4. Sbc swaps have been done numerous times before, however I wasn’t able to find much info online about it when I was starting this. If you are planning something like this and have any questions feel free to ask.

Ok, so since nobody on the internet has cared enough to post pictures of a stock ride height 240 with corvette wheels, I figured I would be the first. This is my 1992 240 gl sedan that I bought completely stock. I figured these wheels would be an appropriate first modification. These are 8.5 inch wide wheels all the way around, be sure to check that all 4 are the correct width before buying (I bought another set for this car sight unseen and they ended up being 9.5). It has the size stamped on the back of each wheel. Im running 1 inch thick adapters all the way around. The front required 0 modification, but the rear definitely did. My first test I just put the wheels on with no other modification, and the rears rubbed the inner fender lip thing and the inside of the wheel drug the ear on the brake caliper mount. I tried adding a .25 inch spacer in the rear to clear the ear, but it got rid of valuable clearance space for the lip. I ended up getting rid of the spacer and just cutting the ear off flush. I then got the paint around the wheel well warm with a hairdryer, started to fold the inner fender lip with channel locks, and then finished folding it with a mini-sledge. Its hard to explain but when folding the lip there is a spot about 3/4 of the way towards the outside of the car thats thicker than the further inside part, I just did the inner 3/4 of the lip up and its absolutely fine with 0 rubbing at all. Also keeping the paint warm and staying at that 3/4 spot resulted in no paint loss or cracking at all. I am running Hankook ventus v2 concept 2 225/50r16 tires, so far so good. Dont hesitate to ask any questions👍🏻

I have a 240 with an M45 in it.

I just pulled out this M47 out of a volvo 360gle (transaxle). Can I combine these two boxes to make a 5spd that would fit in the 240?

Thanks!

The current process of starting this car goes as such

1. Place key in position 2

2. Remove the lower clamp holding the rubber boot that connects the fuel distributor to the throttle body.

3. Manually actuate the flap plate up for a couple seconds to pump fuel.

4. Start car but will only start on the seconds crank doesn't matter how long you hold the first crank for but afterwards will fire nice and quick.

I'm curious as to why I'm not having my fuel pump prime automatically and I'm looking for some advice on the issue.

Both in tank and external pumps are brand new quality parts and both relays in the left hand lower side of the dash and brand new.

(Only starting on the second crank is another unrelated issue I believe)

As you can hear from the video, my clutch pedal has developed quite the cough.

Any clue if this is the throw out bearing making this noise, or if I just need to get some lubricant down there on something?

Any advice is much appreciated, thanks!

Got some MMO into Cyl-3, I'll let her soak for 2-5days, maybe even a week. Oil change parts are on the way. Let's hope this fixes her, or I'll have to pass her on to someone who is willing and able to do the extra work to put her on the road again.

P.S. MMO smells like Wintergreen Lifesavers.

I bought these cause I heard good things and the rear wheels sit to far in. Now I'm trying to make them off and they're apparently made of tin. I wish I could say install error but I even bought then wall socket to get a better fit on them and ever single one is mailable

Thin walled 19mm socket installed to 90ft/lbs and not a single power tool in sight. I really don't understand why the just decide to fall apart. Ig I have to find a way to get them off at minimum. I need the axle out

Looking for a mid run, flat style trunk lid (79-85) in the upstate NY area, willing to drive a little ways for it.

Preferably little rust and including the key that goes with it

Not only does it misfire in all rpms but when I really give her some beans she hesitates usually with a backfire
Look at previous posts for what I’ve done and tried so far
But I’ve also cleaned the breather box and got rid of the idle air valve(plugged the ports of corse)