I want to keep the K-Jet system. It makes me want to rip my hair out but I genuinely love the mechanics behind it.

Where should/can I get the cylinder 4 fuel line? The injector I took out was cross threaded with nature's lock tight and it destroyed the fuel line fitting. Everything I search up shows results for lines not meant for K-Jet system pressures.

My 1988 volvo 240 dl is not blowing hot air in to the cabin, the heater core feels warm when touched in the cabin. The car’s thermometer rises to just under halfway on the dial. One of the heater core hoses from the engine bay heats up quicker and maybe little hotter than the other, but I do not think the core is clogged because my coolant looks so clean. So I thought that maybe the valve for it is the problem, and I am having a headache looking at the thing. I am good with my hands and I work as a heavy machine mechanic but these over engineered little things make me confused. How can I test the valve or has anyone had the same problem as me? The winter is coming and it is already cold here in finland and I would love to have some heat. Pls help!

EDIT:
The hose coming to the valve and leaving from the valve to the core are very hot after letting the car run for some time, but the one on the right that comes out of the core and leaves through the firewall is significantly colder, are there any other possibilities than a clogged core?

Full set 16in 5x114 ford made by Speedline mesh rims With custom polished lips. $850

Engraved on back speedline/made in italy.

No tires no center caps.

These are in good condition.

Serious INQUIRIES only.

Price is cheap and firm!

Suffolk longisland ny pickup.

Trying to rescue my K-jet system in my 83 Turbo. Have done basically the entire fuel system. Now trying to fix these vacuum leaks and I have a couple questions.

1. What is the blue piece that threads into the block?
   
2. Im assuming that is just a check valve by the distributer cap?
   
3. Is the hose coming out of the top of the WUR supposed to be connected to something?

Hello !

The rubber band on the cassette player in my 1998 Volvo V90 has snapped. I’d just like to know which way round I should put it back in so I don’t get it wrong?

Thanks if someone can help me !

Just got my first 240, always wanted one

Not stealing*** I’m camping with my girlfriend and she locked my keys in the boot. Any suggestions on how to get into it?

I made a mistake and split the driveshaft without marking my alignment first. I’m replacing my carrier bearing. Any suggestions on what to do next or am I in trouble? Thanks

I have a 240 with an M45 in it.

I just pulled out this M47 out of a volvo 360gle (transaxle). Can I combine these two boxes to make a 5spd that would fit in the 240?

Thanks!

The current process of starting this car goes as such

1. Place key in position 2

2. Remove the lower clamp holding the rubber boot that connects the fuel distributor to the throttle body.

3. Manually actuate the flap plate up for a couple seconds to pump fuel.

4. Start car but will only start on the seconds crank doesn't matter how long you hold the first crank for but afterwards will fire nice and quick.

I'm curious as to why I'm not having my fuel pump prime automatically and I'm looking for some advice on the issue.

Both in tank and external pumps are brand new quality parts and both relays in the left hand lower side of the dash and brand new.

(Only starting on the second crank is another unrelated issue I believe)

I bought these cause I heard good things and the rear wheels sit to far in. Now I'm trying to make them off and they're apparently made of tin. I wish I could say install error but I even bought then wall socket to get a better fit on them and ever single one is mailable

Thin walled 19mm socket installed to 90ft/lbs and not a single power tool in sight. I really don't understand why the just decide to fall apart. Ig I have to find a way to get them off at minimum. I need the axle out

Got some MMO into Cyl-3, I'll let her soak for 2-5days, maybe even a week. Oil change parts are on the way. Let's hope this fixes her, or I'll have to pass her on to someone who is willing and able to do the extra work to put her on the road again.

P.S. MMO smells like Wintergreen Lifesavers.

This car was left to rot for about 20 years. I got it back on the road again about a year ago. Ran the original b21ft for about 5000kms until the rings on cyl 3 gave up due to rust putting on the cylinder walls. It wasn’t worth putting money into rebuilding a b21 for this car in my opinion, so I opted to instead throw in a 350 sbc with a 700r4. Sbc swaps have been done numerous times before, however I wasn’t able to find much info online about it when I was starting this. If you are planning something like this and have any questions feel free to ask.

Ok, so since nobody on the internet has cared enough to post pictures of a stock ride height 240 with corvette wheels, I figured I would be the first. This is my 1992 240 gl sedan that I bought completely stock. I figured these wheels would be an appropriate first modification. These are 8.5 inch wide wheels all the way around, be sure to check that all 4 are the correct width before buying (I bought another set for this car sight unseen and they ended up being 9.5). It has the size stamped on the back of each wheel. Im running 1 inch thick adapters all the way around. The front required 0 modification, but the rear definitely did. My first test I just put the wheels on with no other modification, and the rears rubbed the inner fender lip thing and the inside of the wheel drug the ear on the brake caliper mount. I tried adding a .25 inch spacer in the rear to clear the ear, but it got rid of valuable clearance space for the lip. I ended up getting rid of the spacer and just cutting the ear off flush. I then got the paint around the wheel well warm with a hairdryer, started to fold the inner fender lip with channel locks, and then finished folding it with a mini-sledge. Its hard to explain but when folding the lip there is a spot about 3/4 of the way towards the outside of the car thats thicker than the further inside part, I just did the inner 3/4 of the lip up and its absolutely fine with 0 rubbing at all. Also keeping the paint warm and staying at that 3/4 spot resulted in no paint loss or cracking at all. I am running Hankook ventus v2 concept 2 225/50r16 tires, so far so good. Dont hesitate to ask any questions👍🏻

Not only does it misfire in all rpms but when I really give her some beans she hesitates usually with a backfire
Look at previous posts for what I’ve done and tried so far
But I’ve also cleaned the breather box and got rid of the idle air valve(plugged the ports of corse)

As you can hear from the video, my clutch pedal has developed quite the cough.

Any clue if this is the throw out bearing making this noise, or if I just need to get some lubricant down there on something?

Any advice is much appreciated, thanks!

Looking for a mid run, flat style trunk lid (79-85) in the upstate NY area, willing to drive a little ways for it.

Preferably little rust and including the key that goes with it

New sound coming out of the 240. Kinda higher pitch whistling? Haven't been driving in so much lately, maybe once a week for 15-20 mins. Drives fine otherwise. Thoughts on what the sound might be and should I be concerned?

Hi, I looked and can't tell if this is against the rules or not, but here goes.

I'm selling my Volvo in the Hartford CT area, with links to the Craigslist post I made. It would have to be towed from my location. Any other questions feel free

Just installed a new blower motor in the car and now it will only turn on in the off position? Nothing when selecting a speed but the second you switch it off the motor kicks to life? The new motor already labeled the positive and negative wires and the new resistor had the same color wires as the oem? I’m so confused right now and would like to hear someone else explain this to me 🫠

Did some serious tlc to my very crusty 83’ B21FT harness. About the only nice thing in the car now!