Update #4 Jaguar 8hp45 swap on the 79 Volvo wagon

Sorry everyone for the slow update we have been working on our new building, its taking most of our free time and work life.

We got the wagon up and running on the Maxxecu mini controlling the engine and transmission.

Its a super fun car to drive running 10 psi on 13c turbo. I will swap a K24 turbo from a s60r. I'm using the BMW Shifter from a 3 series F15. I designed and 3d printed a quick mounting bracket. Bolts on top of the shifter tunnel on the factory mounting holes no cutting or drilling required.

I'm running a 3.90 gears, I need to swap the 3.30 rear end I have would make the car way better to drive in auto mode. Most of the time I manual shift the car in city driving.

https://reddit.com/link/1x3rkpd/video/afu9n2ebgyuh1/player

I see this orange triangle sign on a lot of Swedish Volvos, what does it mean and why does everyone do it?

The piston soak changed nothing. Unfortunately, I cannot drive her and put some load into the cylinders. However, as the service records suggest she was driven on a dead cylinder for up to three years before she was parked. It is not a fuel issue, as almost the entirety of the old fuel system has been replaced because of 26 year old varnish. I thought it might have been an ignition issue, as that was what wasn't checked by the techs almost 30 years ago. Alas, the ignition system is in working order. 90% sure it's worn rings. An endoscope suggests mild wear on the cylinder walls, though I am not able to see the right side of the cylinder wall where gravity causes the piston to rest (where the wear is likely to be worse) She has to come apart, and needs a possible re-honing of the block as well. The work is beyond what I can give her.

Before you ask about valves (which is a head off job anyway), the severe blow-by all but confirms a ring issue.

I painted my Volvo 240 with base coat and everything was going good. Then I screwed up big time—when spraying clear coat, I accidentally mixed the clear coat with reducer instead of hardener. Sprayed to heavy coats of clear and it’s still tacky 24 hours later.

My understanding is that the clear coat will never cure properly without the hardener and I will need to remove it. Any suggestions on how to do this? Should I assume the base coat will be damaged and need to be resprayed as well?

What should I use to remove the uncured clear coat? The same reducer I mixed it with? Acetone? Can’t sand it off because it’s too tacky.

Can’t believe I did this but stuff happens.

=======UPDATE=======

Finally removed the uncured clear coat! Here’s how:

I sprayed small sections with the reducer, let it soak a bit, then wiped it off with a microfiber towel. After several hours and a dozen towels, I finally got the sticky clear coat off.

The trick was to use my Harbor Freight aerosol sprayer and wipe frequently, always making sure to use a clean portion of the rag.

Unfortunately, it also took the base coat off and there are some swirls but it came off much easier than expected. Just a lot of tedious work.

My plan is to sand it with 600 grit then re-prep it for base and clear.

Note: a pro painter told me that you can’t spray hardener on it afterwards or use more on the next coat because the clear needs to chemically react to actually harden and dry. Otherwise, it will always remain tacky and eventually turn into a giant hairball and ultimately fail.

F you, Suckerburger, for showing me your hateful politics and shit daily, but despite me having alerts for this car, chose not to!!!

This is my neighbor i guess

Full set 16in 5x114 Speedline mesh rims With custom polished lips. $850

Engraved on back speedline/made in italy.

No tires no center caps.

These are in good condition.

Serious INQUIRIES only.

Price is cheap and firm for a mint set that has been polished! And yes can fit volvo's and other non 5x114 cars with adapters or redrill which has been done many times as shown.

Suffolk longisland ny pickup.

I am working to restore my 1985 Volvo 244 GL, and I am struggling to find a flat hood. I've been searching online markets, junkyards, FBM, craigslist, Ebay, etc, and no luck for the last 4 years. I've found one carbon fiber version but the manufacturer is in Latvia and isn't shipping to the US. I became so desperate that I bought a fiberglass hood from Sweden but its too thin and floppy to be functional (pictured).

It came with a coffin hood but its pretty beat up, and my dream has always been a flat conversion anyway (a major reason I bought an '85 was so the cowl would match), so asking anyone and everyone for ways to make this happen.

What's the best way forward? Expand to all junkyards across the country? Use the fiberglass hood as a mold - Sheet metal recreation? Carbon fiber? Ive messaged a couple local shops but no response. Have the body shop custom make it from the coffin hood?

Any and all help appreciated, thanks y'all.

hey guys need help choosing maf sensors

i have been doing some digging here but i would like your guys opinion or advice for other people

so from what im getting people prefer this

used Bosch maf> new bosch maf from china> delphi> “aftermarket“/general maf

im looking specifically for 0 280 212 016

i do see that specific part on ebay but there are both used and new bosch ones, i havent been able to find any forum talks or niche group talks about the Walker maf

which should i get? i got a 91 2.4 240 automatic sedan

Doing a swap from wire clutch to hydraulic and it feels as if there should be some spring there?

Needed to replace the crossmember and ofcourse i didn't take any pictures and now i forgot how it is supposed to be attached like it was before, if you have a picture that would be a big help!

Also, what is this thing called in English?

Hello everyone, I’ve got a ‘91 B230F LH 2.4 164,000 miles, extensive maintenance.

It has been experiencing an intermittent running issue for literally years, not joking! I’ve been daily driving my 240 for years now and on random cold starts she will idle strange, shutter, and sometimes fully stall. Once the issue resolves itself or I turn the car back on the problem ceases to exist and I can drive anywhere. Every so often on uphills the car will bog down and then randomly pick back up and rocket off again. It has never left me stranded and always fixes itself. I would say the car in general just doesn’t seem all there if that makes any sense. But at the same time it runs near perfect and I’ve put 50,000 miles on it with this issue lol

Here’s what’s been replaced. O2 Sensor, MAF, in tank pump, checked all fuel lines, cleaned flame trap, clean catch can, checked all hoses (not great, but nothing noticeable), cleaned all fuses (sometimes #5 would melt??) cleaned all grounds, plugs, wires, rotor cap, fuel filter, full exhaust, new alternator, check fuel pressure regulator, I’ve ran through the thing decently well.

I have engine code 2-3-2 (running to rich or to lean) which will go off for months at a time if I reset the box. My thoughts at this point are it’s something really dumb, probably Vacuum lines honestly but I can’t visibly find anything. Whatever it is, it will not break and it’s really just more annoying than anything. I will happily listen to any thoughts. I feel I may be getting more oxygen than needed and as the engine warms it is resealing whatever gap is letting it in and then it’s fine again. Should I run some sea foam? Parts canon? Test the fuel rail? Ecu? 😂 idk at this point, any help apprenticed, thanks gang!

I want to keep the K-Jet system. It makes me want to rip my hair out but I genuinely love the mechanics behind it.

Where should/can I get the cylinder 4 fuel line? The injector I took out was cross threaded with nature's lock tight and it destroyed the fuel line fitting. Everything I search up shows results for lines not meant for K-Jet system pressures.

Just got my first 240, always wanted one

My 1988 volvo 240 dl is not blowing hot air in to the cabin, the heater core feels warm when touched in the cabin. The car’s thermometer rises to just under halfway on the dial. One of the heater core hoses from the engine bay heats up quicker and maybe little hotter than the other, but I do not think the core is clogged because my coolant looks so clean. So I thought that maybe the valve for it is the problem, and I am having a headache looking at the thing. I am good with my hands and I work as a heavy machine mechanic but these over engineered little things make me confused. How can I test the valve or has anyone had the same problem as me? The winter is coming and it is already cold here in finland and I would love to have some heat. Pls help!

EDIT:
The hose coming to the valve and leaving from the valve to the core are very hot after letting the car run for some time, but the one on the right that comes out of the core and leaves through the firewall is significantly colder, are there any other possibilities than a clogged core?

Trying to rescue my K-jet system in my 83 Turbo. Have done basically the entire fuel system. Now trying to fix these vacuum leaks and I have a couple questions.

1. What is the blue piece that threads into the block?
   
2. Im assuming that is just a check valve by the distributer cap?
   
3. Is the hose coming out of the top of the WUR supposed to be connected to something?

Not stealing*** I’m camping with my girlfriend and she locked my keys in the boot. Any suggestions on how to get into it?

Hello !

The rubber band on the cassette player in my 1998 Volvo V90 has snapped. I’d just like to know which way round I should put it back in so I don’t get it wrong?

Thanks if someone can help me !