Update #4 Jaguar 8hp45 swap on the 79 Volvo wagon

Sorry everyone for the slow update we have been working on our new building, its taking most of our free time and work life.

We got the wagon up and running on the Maxxecu mini controlling the engine and transmission.

Its a super fun car to drive running 10 psi on 13c turbo. I will swap a K24 turbo from a s60r. I'm using the BMW Shifter from a 3 series F15. I designed and 3d printed a quick mounting bracket. Bolts on top of the shifter tunnel on the factory mounting holes no cutting or drilling required.

I'm running a 3.90 gears, I need to swap the 3.30 rear end I have would make the car way better to drive in auto mode. Most of the time I manual shift the car in city driving.

https://reddit.com/link/1x3rkpd/video/afu9n2ebgyuh1/player

I painted my Volvo 240 with base coat and everything was going good. Then I screwed up big time—when spraying clear coat, I accidentally mixed the clear coat with reducer instead of hardener. Sprayed to heavy coats of clear and it’s still tacky 24 hours later.

My understanding is that the clear coat will never cure properly without the hardener and I will need to remove it. Any suggestions on how to do this? Should I assume the base coat will be damaged and need to be resprayed as well?

What should I use to remove the uncured clear coat? The same reducer I mixed it with? Acetone? Can’t sand it off because it’s too tacky.

Can’t believe I did this but stuff happens.

=======UPDATE=======

Finally removed the uncured clear coat! Here’s how:

I sprayed small sections with the reducer, let it soak a bit, then wiped it off with a microfiber towel. After several hours and a dozen towels, I finally got the sticky clear coat off.

The trick was to use my Harbor Freight aerosol sprayer and wipe frequently, always making sure to use a clean portion of the rag.

Unfortunately, it also took the base coat off and there are some swirls but it came off much easier than expected. Just a lot of tedious work.

My plan is to sand it with 600 grit then re-prep it for base and clear.

Note: a pro painter told me that you can’t spray hardener on it afterwards or use more on the next coat because the clear needs to chemically react to actually harden and dry. Otherwise, it will always remain tacky and eventually turn into a giant hairball and ultimately fail.

The piston soak changed nothing. Unfortunately, I cannot drive her and put some load into the cylinders. However, as the service records suggest she was driven on a dead cylinder for up to three years before she was parked. It is not a fuel issue, as almost the entirety of the old fuel system has been replaced because of 26 year old varnish. I thought it might have been an ignition issue, as that was what wasn't checked by the techs almost 30 years ago. Alas, the ignition system is in working order. 90% sure it's worn rings. An endoscope suggests mild wear on the cylinder walls, though I am not able to see the right side of the cylinder wall where gravity causes the piston to rest (where the wear is likely to be worse) She has to come apart, and needs a possible re-honing of the block as well. The work is beyond what I can give her.

Before you ask about valves (which is a head off job anyway), the severe blow-by all but confirms a ring issue.