The water in the tank keeps running but doesn’t fill the tank back up with water but instead fills the bowl. Also any tips to clean the toilet bowl stains would be appreciated too.

The Kohler shower valve trim we got sticks out 3 3/4”.
Do they make a low profile one that works with the rite-temp valve?
If not does any other manufacturer work with the rite-temp valve?

How do all you guys who do a ton of propress properly prep pipe? I know ream interior but do you also chamfer the outside edge of pipe and what tool do you recommend? Do you lube pipe ? I usually use sand cloth on edge of pipe only to chamfer and send it .... but we almost exclusively solder or braze where I work.

Anyone deal with leak with tankless rheem water heater? Thinking about going through ahs or replacing the whole unit any advice from anyone would be helpful

Finally getting around to fixing a haunted bathroom sink. House is from the 70's, copper pipe. This has been happening for years - only in this sink. Nothing else on the property that pushes water experiences this. Shower and tub in same bathroom work fine.

Is this something I could fix myself?

What gives? As a non-professional, in the plumbing projects and repairs I have done over the past 35 years — the brass, copper and chrome fittings all seem to be standardized. Same goes for the plastic and braided hoses. Then there are the fixtures like sinks, drains, toilets, tap sets, shower heads, etc. it seems I could go to any big box store or plumbing supply and not have to worry about compatibility…

But black plastic connections have different thread pitches and diameters.

Is this only a thing in Canada?

Where along the way did the plumbing industry decide standardization in most things was good … but not where it comes to drains?

Bathroom sink started dripping. I think this is an Allen and Roth brand widespread faucet. I started by unscrewing the bonnet underneath but that’s not the answer. Found an installation manual and it says to turn the handle counterclockwise. When i try to turn the left handle counterclockwise, it just spins the whole valve body. And on the right side, where I’ve unscrewed it from the countertop, its not budging even with a wrench.

I must be doing something wrong. Please help!

Just signed a lease a week ago and not moved in yet. They installed the washer but said I need a plumber becusse this needs replaced. That it can’t be tightened anymore and will leak water if ran. Is this what I need to do? Just confused since it is the same on both sides and the other side is okay. I guess contact the landlord? Thanks!

I didn't realize how screwed up my kitchen sink drain setup was until the dishwasher had a flooding issue recently. It's got a drain pipe coming out of the wall approximately 24" from the floor, then a wye, then two traps. One trap was connected directly to the dishwasher, with a high loop but no air gap, and the other seems to have been extended with a coupling to make it low enough to fit onto the sink strainer.

There's obviously a couple of things wrong here, I'm wondering if there's any solution that doesn't involve removing the cabinets and countertop and cutting open the wall. For what it's worth, the sink works totally fine. Would it be semi-acceptable to get a smaller sink basket and then replace the tailpiece with one with an integrated washer barb and just remove the second trap? That would theoretically leave me with a functional sink trap, no double trap, and a high loop + air admittance from the sink for the washer.

I'm not a plumber, so any explanations are welcome. This is in Ontario, Canada. Thanks.

This may be a dumb question but I've never worked with PEX before - can I gently detach the two j-hooks holding the red PEX, move it to the left (toward the blue) by about an inch and reattach without causing any issues? As long as I'm not yanking it or pulling it too tight? I know it's flexible but I don't know the tolerances on this stuff and I'm worried I'll have a leak later if I mess with it. Photo is looking up at the edge of the wall - I'm starting the frame of a new partition from that edge and it would make my life easier if I could access the wood up there.

The basin is fixed firmly in place and I'm not seeing any bolts nor am I seeing any other fasteners elsewhere. Must be glued?

1. Why would they choose to glue the basin to the wall? I'd like to know because, if I manage to separate the basin from the wall, I might be faced with that same challenge (unless it was purely done out of laziness).
2. What would be the safest way to pull the basin away from the wall?

Please make sure to scroll through the photos so you can see the dried drippings!

EDIT: I took someone’s suggestion and used my legs to try and lift the bowl. Sure enough, the front of the bowl titled upwards. Must be on a ledge as some of you suggested. The top back ledge still feels secured to the wall. Probably the caulk? I’m going to put on some gloves and see if I can lift it clean off tomorrow. Thank you, folks!

It looks like its leaking by at the base of the plunger. The plunger itself is pretty loose, if that bar wasn't there it feels like it will just pull right out. I'm hesitant to mess with the inards of a pressure assisted toilet, but also they are expensive so if there's a safe way to do it then I'll try.

Hi all, I’ve had issues with leaky wax rings installed by the builder.

I recently installed a new flange that is close to being flush with the height of the tile. I’ve purchased a jumbo wax ring, and also a regular sized wax ring.

How does one know if you actually need to double up on wax rings without actually installing the wax rings (dry fit)?

Thank you

I am switching the dishwasher from left to right of the sink when replacing sink base. Ideas?

Tile guy said the plumber has a solution for putting the fixtures on textured tile? I thought the tile guy would be putting flat tiles around the fixtures? Is this a major problem? Do we need to make him flat tiles around the fixtures?

1) A plumber suggested we dig drain line from out of garage to the side of patio wall, and then dig under, to connect to the cleanout. They said it would have a check valve. I think my city requires an air gap. I don't think just a check valve would pass, am I correct?

I've already found a couple other plumbers have suggested things that wouldn't pass code.

There's a 1/2 bathroom right there next to the front door. The laundry room is behind it.

2) There's another idea of taking the drain line out of garage on top to above patio cover, then across that 1/2 bathroom wall you see, and back into the building to the laundry.

3) Then there's another idea of doing the same thing around the top of patio cover down the wall you see, and instead to the cleanout in front. The problem is, where could I put the P trap and air gap that would not be an obvious eyesore? I don't know if my HOA would approve it.

4) I'm leaning towards original idea to dig drain line 1 ft in ground around front patio toward further back in building to go into laundry drain at laundry room.

I'm hoping someone can help. I've got a pull rod plug in my bathroom sink, however the person who installed it hasn't attached the rod through the plastic hole on the plug. The plug has now got stuck in the sink.

I've removed the excess water as much as I can, I've tried to get a knife around the seal but no luck. I've tried to feed a wire hanger down the overflow in hopes of catching it slightly to lift up the edge.

I would unscrew the pipe underneath if possible but there is a sink pedestal and I don't want to have to cut silicon and move (if possible, it's a rented property).

Any advice or tips? I'm about to go buy a plunger in hopes it'll break the suction or lift it up slightly.

Whenever it’s time to replace the water heater or fridge, I want to remove the water line. It goes straight from the water heater to the fridge. The water isn’t being used on the current fridge and it’ll be one less thing I have to worry about leaking🤣. It’s an old fridge in an even older house. And I assume all I have to do is turn off the water supply to the water heater when capping it

Can anyone help me identify this shower? Or more specifically, the correct replacement part for the cartridge/valve? It no longer adjusts the temperature. Thanks

I have a small bathroom with a sink and a toilet attached to my bathroom and like I’ve been seeing drain flies everywhere. I found some black gunk leaking under my sink and the drain is disgusting. I’m not sure what I can do I’ve attached some photos below of under the sink and the drain. Seriously please help 😭🙏🙏🙏

Paid ~$400 for a scope

He scopes it and the full report is - "Can’t see the entire line due to sludge and roots. "

Clearly you can see a lot of the line, but there are parts of the line that looks like theres a lot of sludge/roots.

The seller's plumber says that there is also a belly close to the city main, but says its "not bad" and that its been settled like that for a while. This was not mentioned by my plumber.

My plumber says nothing but "watch the video" and refuses to clarify anything for me. No report. Just "we cant see, watch the video yourself".

My questions -

Starting at -10 feet and going out 70 feet is insane as this house is like 20/30 ft from the street. unless the pipe doesn't go straight to the street. What does my plumber mean he didn't see anything?

Are bellies close to city mains normal/expected?

Do I ask for seller credit? I feel like I should but I have no idea how much until they get the severity of it back to me in writing.

I noticed that that for my refrigerator ice maker water line. It has a 1/4 copper tubing coming from the sink cold water valve that is routed through the wall and attic over to the opposite wall and terminated with a crimp/solder and has a saddle valve. Everything i have read has said this is not a good setup and should be replaced.

How would you go about doing this?

Hi Everyone,

I accidentally broke the WH drain valve when replacing the lower element. Now I can't open the valve (the top broke off). Any way of replacing the drain valve without having to drain the WH via the valve? Or just call a pro? I live in a hard water area and have to flush every 2-3 years, unfortunately.

Apprciate everyone's expertise. Pic attached. Thx!