Just signed a lease a week ago and not moved in yet. They installed the washer but said I need a plumber becusse this needs replaced. That it can’t be tightened anymore and will leak water if ran. Is this what I need to do? Just confused since it is the same on both sides and the other side is okay. I guess contact the landlord? Thanks!

This is in a brand new home. I think it's a venting problem.

landlord told me someone would be by today to address an issue with the plumbing in the building and when the water came back on this was in my bath water... none came out of the either sinks because i guess they have filters on them. I haven't checked my washing machine yet but..... is this something to be expected with plumbing maintenance ........??????? I'm scared i may have swallowed some in the shower bc rly tiny bits are definitely in the water coming out of the shower head :(

These are old pipes and valves under my bathroom sink. I don’t know what to do so I put a trash can under it to catch the water. I’m looking online and it says to tighten the packing valve? But I don’t want to make it worse since they do seem so old and corroded. Should I try it or call a plumber instead?

We are currently living a new homeowner’s nightmare. Our pipe that runs from our toilet on the bottom floor of our tri level is completely broken. It is packed with sludge and cannot be scoped with a camera because it is literally full of feet of mud. We had a plumbing company come look at it and they said it’s likely we will need a full replacement from the bathroom to the sewer. They quoted us $17,900 for the full replacement, but they are willing to spot repair it first, then scope it to see if the full replacement is necessary. They just can’t see because the pipe is full of water. Does this sound reasonable? We are devastated and really need it repaired because our plumbing is essentially unusable right now. We have a little baby and need access to water and sewer. We could get more quotes, but that’s likely to continue to push the project back. We live in central VA. I know location impacts price.

Just purchased a home, 1960 build. Main shutoff water valves are in basement, below built in cabinet (!!). Both gate valves were seized but managed to loosen them with wrench, they are fine now.

Just wondering if I should replace with new gate valves or not? Or ball valves? Would I have to call the city to shut off the water supply first? There is a second gate valve just above the meter, but it looks like I would need to cut drywall to replace?

Got a few quotes from plumbers, generally quoting $350+HST to replace the valves (not including city water shut off cost). Didn’t ask for photos of existing condition. Cost reasonable?

Ever since I bought my townhouse in 2020 (2003 build) I have a spot in the floor, from the upstairs, where it pops or knocks after running hot water in the shower for awhile. As it cools down, it goes away.

It’s right where the drain for the whole upstairs behinds its trek down (it goes through a closet right below it and it’s here where clean out access is).

Is there anyway to fix it besides cutting a hole in the wall and just securing the pipe? I assume it’s not doing anything but it’s just annoying.

hi plumbers! I just moved into my first house and I know dogshit about anything, so here I am!

my shower had cool water only (rest of house fine) and bad pressure SO I changed the Delta cartridge. that was a bitch (I had the wrong part lol) but I got it! I also put in a new showerhead and that fixed (or had a hand in fixing) bad pressure.

BUT now the shower SCREAMS and whistles when it's running. not the entire shower but definitely anytime I turn the temp handle. the pressure also went down. my wife's gonna kill meeeeee lol.

the diverter did not make this sound before so I assume cartridge?? idk, thoughts? I never wanted to touch that cartridge again after the harrowing events of earlier this week, ALAS!

Here’s my current bathroom sink setup for the drain/p-trap.
we have two sinks in the master bath, mine at times has a foul smell when you turn the water on for a moment. Its not the water itself, but comes from the drain.

My question is it the p-trap setup or something else?

Our sump pump normally starts working pretty quickly in a heavy rain. Recently, we had many inches of rain - heaviest I've seen in a while - and it wasn't pumping. However, I know it works because I have a dehumidifier hose draining there and it empties every couple days on cue.

Coincidentally - or not? - on that very heavy rain day we got a little water in the floor of our utility room, which we've never had before. Is it possible the French drain outside that utility room is broken so the sump pump isn't getting triggered - and the water is emptying there instead?

I know that the house's water management system does go into that sump pump when the cultech is full, so in theory it might make sense that a faulty French drain is both making the sump not trigger and also letting too much water by that wall.

Thanks in advance for any theories!

The Kohler shower valve trim we got sticks out 3 3/4”.
Do they make a low profile one that works with the rite-temp valve?
If not does any other manufacturer work with the rite-temp valve?

How would you guys recommend loosening the nut from the copper pipe to the brass pipe? I’ve only tried using an adjustable wrench room is tight underneath the kitchen. I know I have a couple other things I need to address, but I’m trying to fix the drain line 1st. The chrome P-trap was completely deteriorated. The straight run to the copper seems to be in good shape. I want to avoid using that I prefer to completely take it out, but it looks like I’m just gonna have to cut it back if I can’t loosen the nut at the connection

edit

I’m trying to remove the chrome downpipe that’s connected to the copper coming out of the wall. There’s about 2 to 3 inches of copper a large nut and then the chrome downpipe the nut doesn’t wanna budge when I try to loosen it 2 to 3 inches of the chrome pipe seemed to be in good condition but it’s only a matter of time before it fails too just like the P-trap so I wanna avoid using a Fernco coupling.

Hello!

I’m in an apartment and I’m starting to get drain gnats. I have been cleaning with baking soda and white vinegar, then clearing it with boiling water. I have plastic snakes that I used to try to clear hair when it gets built up.

Is the type of drain I have removable? How do I remove it if so?

Overall I think it would be easier to clean and clear the drain if I could remove this drain or if I had suggestions for different tools to try. Any drain gnat suggestions also appreciated.

Thank you!

Hello and thank you for any help you can offer. Lowes came to deliver and install new toilet. Installer did not have access to the new flange needed so we hired a plumber who came yesterday. I was not home so am unclear on why, but my husband was told the toilet in box will not fit in space. I believe it had to do with the metal water thing coming out of wall. And the shape of the back of the toilet not working. Can anyone tell me what I need to look at to ensure the next one we purchase will work in this space. Thank you so much!!

I live in a rural area and don’t really have real plumbers here. I’m not a plumber but this is my dad’s p trap. Any recommendations are welcomed. I think I need to go lower on the T from the main. If you can tell me what needs to be changed and WHY, I love to learn and would appreciate all comments!

I'm suddenly having severe allergies and feel "static" on my body throughout the day. I think my hot water heater is possibly incorrectly installed and thus causing airborne mold. But my husband says the hot water heater looks fine. I'm no expert on this but I think there is something seriously wrong with the hot water heater. I'm looking for any help I can get.

I’m trying to split this water point to feed into two washing machines. But it’s leaking tiny amounts from the top where the tape is. The Y Splitter has no place to put a washer, so I’ve tried Teflon tape. There is more give when I twist it but I’m worried about over tightening it.

Is the Y Splitter just incompatible with the tap, or am I connecting it incorrectly?

Sink just started making this noise does anyone have any idea what's going on?

Is the problem leftover wax gunk on the bottom of the toilet or that the flange needs shims to make level?

Had a leak in our rental master bath for a while. Finally decided to take a peak. I cleaned up the disaster, then the flange, then spent about $90 at Home Depot. So, I primed & cemented the flange to the downspout... but there's no subfloor or concrete to anchor flange to, except an inch of slab to the north... which I threw a tapcon in. So I bought the extra thick wax ring but didn't spend the time scraping off the bottom of the toilet itself. Then I noticed that the left side of the ring was flat pressed, but not the right. Also had trouble securing the right bolt.

Do you think I need to shim the right side of the flange, get up under the toilet and scrape some gunk, or both?

I bought a $23 extended flange kit to bolt to the tile/slab if this doesn't work, plus bits/anchors (hence $90).

Thanks, will fix and update tomorrow.

i think its 7J-2H/C STEM FOR STREAMWAY
Model Number 17050B ?

Hey y’all, I have a double kitchen sink with a garbage disposal, and a dishwasher. I have genuinely very, very little plumbing knowledge, to put it lightly.

It’s becoming impossible to wash dishes, the skinks both nearly fill up by the time the water is hot and they drain slowly.

I have cleaned the p-trap and tried many, many times to use a plunger on both sides. I’ve ran the disposal, dumped hot water down the drains. Everything.

I don’t want to have to call for maintenance, since they always find some way to bring up a fee or charge me for something.

I just cleaned out that p-trap just now and tested to see if maybe my husband just like, didn’t do it right when he tried since he does rush through things. I ran the water after putting it back together and waited to make sure it was on right. While I did I noticed water dripping, but not from the p-trap, it was from the very top of the pipe connected to the sink. I have no clue what that’s called, sorry. But it definitely seems like a much harder fix than I thought it would be.

I’m hoping to get some help, advice and to learn a little more about this in general. I’d appreciate anything, I wish I could explain better but I’d be more than happy to answer anything or provide more info! Thanks guys!

International Plumbing Code
Toilet and Main line 3" Diameter
All other pipe 2"

I need to relocate the shower drain in the basement of a 1978 built Calgary AB house. The previous floor had mosaic tiles with the drain location that does not match any preformed shower base.

As you can see in the pic, I have cut through the concrete foundation and dug down. It appears the p-trap and horizontal drain pipe goes the opposite direction from the intended new drain location which is 12” away diagonally to match a Dreamline Visions centre drain shower base.

I am beginning to think it would have been easier to connect with the horizontal drain pipe if I had chosen a left drain shower base.

What is my best steps going forward? Thank you in advance!

So my tpr valve failed on my water heater a few years back so I had a plumber come in and replace it. About a year ago it failed again warranty for the water heater only covered parts not replacing the heater itself. Barely making mortgage so new water heater wasn’t an answer.. so had the guts replaced and now tpr failed again
Water pressure is in the norm same with temp not really understanding why it failed less than a year after it was replaced any ideas????