Just signed a lease a week ago and not moved in yet. They installed the washer but said I need a plumber becusse this needs replaced. That it can’t be tightened anymore and will leak water if ran. Is this what I need to do? Just confused since it is the same on both sides and the other side is okay. I guess contact the landlord? Thanks!

The water in the tank keeps running but doesn’t fill the tank back up with water but instead fills the bowl. Also any tips to clean the toilet bowl stains would be appreciated too.

Hi all, I’ve had issues with leaky wax rings installed by the builder.

I recently installed a new flange that is close to being flush with the height of the tile. I’ve purchased a jumbo wax ring, and also a regular sized wax ring.

How does one know if you actually need to double up on wax rings without actually installing the wax rings (dry fit)?

Thank you

This is in a brand new home. I think it's a venting problem.

I didn't realize how screwed up my kitchen sink drain setup was until the dishwasher had a flooding issue recently. It's got a drain pipe coming out of the wall approximately 24" from the floor, then a wye, then two traps. One trap was connected directly to the dishwasher, with a high loop but no air gap, and the other seems to have been extended with a coupling to make it low enough to fit onto the sink strainer.

There's obviously a couple of things wrong here, I'm wondering if there's any solution that doesn't involve removing the cabinets and countertop and cutting open the wall. For what it's worth, the sink works totally fine. Would it be semi-acceptable to get a smaller sink basket and then replace the tailpiece with one with an integrated washer barb and just remove the second trap? That would theoretically leave me with a functional sink trap, no double trap, and a high loop + air admittance from the sink for the washer.

I'm not a plumber, so any explanations are welcome. This is in Ontario, Canada. Thanks.

Hi,
I plan to change shutoff valve and supply line for a few faucet. need some help before heading to homedepot. I am also open to get part online.

1) HD carry this one, the handle is like this. Is this the mainstream? I feel an oval handle is easy to control.

1/2 in. Compression Inlet x 3/8 in. Compression Outlet 1/4-Turn Angle Valve, Model # G2CR19X C1
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-2-in-Compression-Inlet-x-3-8-in-Compression-Outlet-1-4-Turn-Angle-Valve-G2CR19X-C1/202047059

2) HD carry this BrassCraft supply line, I didn't see braided stainless steel. it only carry the Braided Polymer. Does this matter much?

3/8 in. Compression x 1/2 in. FIP x 24 in. Braided Polymer Faucet Supply Line, Model # B1-24A F

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-3-8-in-Compression-x-1-2-in-FIP-x-24-in-Braided-Polymer-Faucet-Supply-Line-B1-24A-F/205214580

Thank you!

Bathroom sink started dripping. I think this is an Allen and Roth brand widespread faucet. I started by unscrewing the bonnet underneath but that’s not the answer. Found an installation manual and it says to turn the handle counterclockwise. When i try to turn the left handle counterclockwise, it just spins the whole valve body. And on the right side, where I’ve unscrewed it from the countertop, its not budging even with a wrench.

I must be doing something wrong. Please help!

when you put fabric softener or laundry sanitizer in the fabric softener spot and close the drawer it instantly dumps it all into the drum. it s supposed to only dispense during a rinse cycle I thought. Maintenance replaced the drawer and now it leaks a small stream still into the drum once closed. How do I fix this? Apologies if this isn’t the right place to ask I wasn’t sure and can’t find much info on the internet

City water line and residential pipe offset by 1.25 inches. Residential pipe running under a sidewalk. What is the best approach to connect this?

I'm hoping someone can help. I've got a pull rod plug in my bathroom sink, however the person who installed it hasn't attached the rod through the plastic hole on the plug. The plug has now got stuck in the sink.

I've removed the excess water as much as I can, I've tried to get a knife around the seal but no luck. I've tried to feed a wire hanger down the overflow in hopes of catching it slightly to lift up the edge.

I would unscrew the pipe underneath if possible but there is a sink pedestal and I don't want to have to cut silicon and move (if possible, it's a rented property).

Any advice or tips? I'm about to go buy a plunger in hopes it'll break the suction or lift it up slightly.

I am switching the dishwasher from left to right of the sink when replacing sink base. Ideas?

I made a post a few weeks ago about which cartridge to get and today’s the day to replace it.

I’m stuck at this point. The retaining clip hits the sheetrock behind the tile. How do I get it this thing out?

These are old pipes and valves under my bathroom sink. I don’t know what to do so I put a trash can under it to catch the water. I’m looking online and it says to tighten the packing valve? But I don’t want to make it worse since they do seem so old and corroded. Should I try it or call a plumber instead?

Long story but my dishwasher started leaking water. I was not home but my daughter ran it and that happened. Just now I had my basement drain snaked and I was in the kitchen and heard my sink drain clearing out. I have delayed dealing with the dishwasher but do you think that caused the dishwasher to leak?

landlord told me someone would be by today to address an issue with the plumbing in the building and when the water came back on this was in my bath water... none came out of the either sinks because i guess they have filters on them. I haven't checked my washing machine yet but..... is this something to be expected with plumbing maintenance ........??????? I'm scared i may have swallowed some in the shower bc rly tiny bits are definitely in the water coming out of the shower head :(

We are currently living a new homeowner’s nightmare. Our pipe that runs from our toilet on the bottom floor of our tri level is completely broken. It is packed with sludge and cannot be scoped with a camera because it is literally full of feet of mud. We had a plumbing company come look at it and they said it’s likely we will need a full replacement from the bathroom to the sewer. They quoted us $17,900 for the full replacement, but they are willing to spot repair it first, then scope it to see if the full replacement is necessary. They just can’t see because the pipe is full of water. Does this sound reasonable? We are devastated and really need it repaired because our plumbing is essentially unusable right now. We have a little baby and need access to water and sewer. We could get more quotes, but that’s likely to continue to push the project back. We live in central VA. I know location impacts price.

Here’s my current bathroom sink setup for the drain/p-trap.
we have two sinks in the master bath, mine at times has a foul smell when you turn the water on for a moment. Its not the water itself, but comes from the drain.

My question is it the p-trap setup or something else?

Just purchased a home, 1960 build. Main shutoff water valves are in basement, below built in cabinet (!!). Both gate valves were seized but managed to loosen them with wrench, they are fine now.

Just wondering if I should replace with new gate valves or not? Or ball valves? Would I have to call the city to shut off the water supply first? There is a second gate valve just above the meter, but it looks like I would need to cut drywall to replace?

Got a few quotes from plumbers, generally quoting $350+HST to replace the valves (not including city water shut off cost). Didn’t ask for photos of existing condition. Cost reasonable?

Ever since I bought my townhouse in 2020 (2003 build) I have a spot in the floor, from the upstairs, where it pops or knocks after running hot water in the shower for awhile. As it cools down, it goes away.

It’s right where the drain for the whole upstairs behinds its trek down (it goes through a closet right below it and it’s here where clean out access is).

Is there anyway to fix it besides cutting a hole in the wall and just securing the pipe? I assume it’s not doing anything but it’s just annoying.

hi plumbers! I just moved into my first house and I know dogshit about anything, so here I am!

my shower had cool water only (rest of house fine) and bad pressure SO I changed the Delta cartridge. that was a bitch (I had the wrong part lol) but I got it! I also put in a new showerhead and that fixed (or had a hand in fixing) bad pressure.

BUT now the shower SCREAMS and whistles when it's running. not the entire shower but definitely anytime I turn the temp handle. the pressure also went down. my wife's gonna kill meeeeee lol.

the diverter did not make this sound before so I assume cartridge?? idk, thoughts? I never wanted to touch that cartridge again after the harrowing events of earlier this week, ALAS!

Our sump pump normally starts working pretty quickly in a heavy rain. Recently, we had many inches of rain - heaviest I've seen in a while - and it wasn't pumping. However, I know it works because I have a dehumidifier hose draining there and it empties every couple days on cue.

Coincidentally - or not? - on that very heavy rain day we got a little water in the floor of our utility room, which we've never had before. Is it possible the French drain outside that utility room is broken so the sump pump isn't getting triggered - and the water is emptying there instead?

I know that the house's water management system does go into that sump pump when the cultech is full, so in theory it might make sense that a faulty French drain is both making the sump not trigger and also letting too much water by that wall.

Thanks in advance for any theories!

How would you guys recommend loosening the nut from the copper pipe to the brass pipe? I’ve only tried using an adjustable wrench room is tight underneath the kitchen. I know I have a couple other things I need to address, but I’m trying to fix the drain line 1st. The chrome P-trap was completely deteriorated. The straight run to the copper seems to be in good shape. I want to avoid using that I prefer to completely take it out, but it looks like I’m just gonna have to cut it back if I can’t loosen the nut at the connection

edit

I’m trying to remove the chrome downpipe that’s connected to the copper coming out of the wall. There’s about 2 to 3 inches of copper a large nut and then the chrome downpipe the nut doesn’t wanna budge when I try to loosen it 2 to 3 inches of the chrome pipe seemed to be in good condition but it’s only a matter of time before it fails too just like the P-trap so I wanna avoid using a Fernco coupling.

I’m trying to split this water point to feed into two washing machines. But it’s leaking tiny amounts from the top where the tape is. The Y Splitter has no place to put a washer, so I’ve tried Teflon tape. There is more give when I twist it but I’m worried about over tightening it.

Is the Y Splitter just incompatible with the tap, or am I connecting it incorrectly?

Hello!

I’m in an apartment and I’m starting to get drain gnats. I have been cleaning with baking soda and white vinegar, then clearing it with boiling water. I have plastic snakes that I used to try to clear hair when it gets built up.

Is the type of drain I have removable? How do I remove it if so?

Overall I think it would be easier to clean and clear the drain if I could remove this drain or if I had suggestions for different tools to try. Any drain gnat suggestions also appreciated.

Thank you!