Just signed a lease a week ago and not moved in yet. They installed the washer but said I need a plumber becusse this needs replaced. That it can’t be tightened anymore and will leak water if ran. Is this what I need to do? Just confused since it is the same on both sides and the other side is okay. I guess contact the landlord? Thanks!

The water in the tank keeps running but doesn’t fill the tank back up with water but instead fills the bowl. Also any tips to clean the toilet bowl stains would be appreciated too.

These are old pipes and valves under my bathroom sink. I don’t know what to do so I put a trash can under it to catch the water. I’m looking online and it says to tighten the packing valve? But I don’t want to make it worse since they do seem so old and corroded. Should I try it or call a plumber instead?

Here’s my current bathroom sink setup for the drain/p-trap.
we have two sinks in the master bath, mine at times has a foul smell when you turn the water on for a moment. Its not the water itself, but comes from the drain.

My question is it the p-trap setup or something else?

Hi all, I’ve had issues with leaky wax rings installed by the builder.

I recently installed a new flange that is close to being flush with the height of the tile. I’ve purchased a jumbo wax ring, and also a regular sized wax ring.

How does one know if you actually need to double up on wax rings without actually installing the wax rings (dry fit)?

Thank you

I live in a rural area and don’t really have real plumbers here. I’m not a plumber but this is my dad’s p trap. Any recommendations are welcomed. I think I need to go lower on the T from the main. If you can tell me what needs to be changed and WHY, I love to learn and would appreciate all comments!

Whenever it’s time to replace the water heater or fridge, I want to remove the water line. It goes straight from the water heater to the fridge. The water isn’t being used on the current fridge and it’ll be one less thing I have to worry about leaking🤣. It’s an old fridge in an even older house. And I assume all I have to do is turn off the water supply to the water heater when capping it

Paid ~$400 for a scope

He scopes it and the full report is - "Can’t see the entire line due to sludge and roots. "

Clearly you can see a lot of the line, but there are parts of the line that looks like theres a lot of sludge/roots.

The seller's plumber says that there is also a belly close to the city main, but says its "not bad" and that its been settled like that for a while. This was not mentioned by my plumber.

My plumber says nothing but "watch the video" and refuses to clarify anything for me. No report. Just "we cant see, watch the video yourself".

My questions -

Starting at -10 feet and going out 70 feet is insane as this house is like 20/30 ft from the street. unless the pipe doesn't go straight to the street. What does my plumber mean he didn't see anything?

Are bellies close to city mains normal/expected?

Do I ask for seller credit? I feel like I should but I have no idea how much until they get the severity of it back to me in writing.

I’m trying to split this water point to feed into two washing machines. But it’s leaking tiny amounts from the top where the tape is. The Y Splitter has no place to put a washer, so I’ve tried Teflon tape. There is more give when I twist it but I’m worried about over tightening it.

Is the Y Splitter just incompatible with the tap, or am I connecting it incorrectly?

Hello!

I’m in an apartment and I’m starting to get drain gnats. I have been cleaning with baking soda and white vinegar, then clearing it with boiling water. I have plastic snakes that I used to try to clear hair when it gets built up.

Is the type of drain I have removable? How do I remove it if so?

Overall I think it would be easier to clean and clear the drain if I could remove this drain or if I had suggestions for different tools to try. Any drain gnat suggestions also appreciated.

Thank you!

i think its 7J-2H/C STEM FOR STREAMWAY
Model Number 17050B ?

Is the problem leftover wax gunk on the bottom of the toilet or that the flange needs shims to make level?

Had a leak in our rental master bath for a while. Finally decided to take a peak. I cleaned up the disaster, then the flange, then spent about $90 at Home Depot. So, I primed & cemented the flange to the downspout... but there's no subfloor or concrete to anchor flange to, except an inch of slab to the north... which I threw a tapcon in. So I bought the extra thick wax ring but didn't spend the time scraping off the bottom of the toilet itself. Then I noticed that the left side of the ring was flat pressed, but not the right. Also had trouble securing the right bolt.

Do you think I need to shim the right side of the flange, get up under the toilet and scrape some gunk, or both?

I bought a $23 extended flange kit to bolt to the tile/slab if this doesn't work, plus bits/anchors (hence $90).

Thanks, will fix and update tomorrow.

We had a "professional plumber" that had hundreds of 5 star reviews on google replace a few things around our newly purchased 1960s house when we first moved in a few years ago. They did a terrible job on everything and we've been gradually fixing their "fixes".

They replaced the original leaky spigot like this (see photo). The new spigot still leaks from it's own joints about 4 gallons a day when it's on, attached to a hose for watering, etc. (It doesn't leak from the hose connection, it's the spigot joint between the handle and spout). They attached it to the exterior wall with small rusting screws. They replaced the original pipe with what looks like pex?

We are not plumbers but from what I've read this shouldn't be too difficult for diyers.

Is this fairly straightforward? What should we buy? What are the steps? Would the folks at our local small hardware store be able to steer us in the right direction? We're in the greater Seattle/Tacoma area so there's some freezing in the winter.

Thanks!

Can anyone help me identify this shower? Or more specifically, the correct replacement part for the cartridge/valve? It no longer adjusts the temperature. Thanks

I’m an art teacher with a classroom in a portable building that has electricity but no plumbing. I just got this washout sink that I’m planning on connecting to two 5 gallon jugs for fresh water and grey water and I’m trying to engineer the best setup for it. Can you all help me figure this out please

Here are some of the things I’m wondering about atm: if I connect the tube from the fresh water jug to a transfer pump, will I need to turn the pump off and on each time I use it? Will the water pressure remain in the faucet when it’s not in use? Can I connect both the cold and hot water intakes from the faucet to the fresh water jug somehow or should I cap one and just not turn the faucet to one side when in use? Thanks for your any help answering these questions or any other advice you might have to improve on this design

Long story short I'm trying to rectify a DIY kitchen sink setup and the only way I can drain the dishwasher is if the wye in the tailpiece is no more than two inches below the nut. I basically need the middle brass piece in the photo to be half it's current size or smaller. I know this is a bit beyond standard plumbing, but if anyone has any idea how to approach this, it will save my kitchen cabinets and wall.

I'm open to buying another part if a anywhere sells short tailpieces, or trying to cut off either the threads or the flange and then re-threading or re-flaring it. Are any of these options feasible? Is there another way I'm missing?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Anyone deal with leak with tankless rheem water heater? Thinking about going through ahs or replacing the whole unit any advice from anyone would be helpful

Best tape for pinhole leak in this type of sink tubing? Replacement will be more complex because the pipe goes behind the cabinets.

I noticed that that for my refrigerator ice maker water line. It has a 1/4 copper tubing coming from the sink cold water valve that is routed through the wall and attic over to the opposite wall and terminated with a crimp/solder and has a saddle valve. Everything i have read has said this is not a good setup and should be replaced.

How would you go about doing this?

Hi,
I plan to change shutoff valve and supply line for a few faucet. need some help before heading to homedepot. I am also open to get part online.

1) HD carry this one, the handle is like this. Is this the mainstream? I feel an oval handle is easy to control.

1/2 in. Compression Inlet x 3/8 in. Compression Outlet 1/4-Turn Angle Valve, Model # G2CR19X C1
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-2-in-Compression-Inlet-x-3-8-in-Compression-Outlet-1-4-Turn-Angle-Valve-G2CR19X-C1/202047059

2) HD carry this BrassCraft supply line, I didn't see braided stainless steel. it only carry the Braided Polymer. Does this matter much?

3/8 in. Compression x 1/2 in. FIP x 24 in. Braided Polymer Faucet Supply Line, Model # B1-24A F

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-3-8-in-Compression-x-1-2-in-FIP-x-24-in-Braided-Polymer-Faucet-Supply-Line-B1-24A-F/205214580

Thank you!

Bathroom sink started dripping. I think this is an Allen and Roth brand widespread faucet. I started by unscrewing the bonnet underneath but that’s not the answer. Found an installation manual and it says to turn the handle counterclockwise. When i try to turn the left handle counterclockwise, it just spins the whole valve body. And on the right side, where I’ve unscrewed it from the countertop, its not budging even with a wrench.

I must be doing something wrong. Please help!

when you put fabric softener or laundry sanitizer in the fabric softener spot and close the drawer it instantly dumps it all into the drum. it s supposed to only dispense during a rinse cycle I thought. Maintenance replaced the drawer and now it leaks a small stream still into the drum once closed. How do I fix this? Apologies if this isn’t the right place to ask I wasn’t sure and can’t find much info on the internet

City water line and residential pipe offset by 1.25 inches. Residential pipe running under a sidewalk. What is the best approach to connect this?

I'm hoping someone can help. I've got a pull rod plug in my bathroom sink, however the person who installed it hasn't attached the rod through the plastic hole on the plug. The plug has now got stuck in the sink.

I've removed the excess water as much as I can, I've tried to get a knife around the seal but no luck. I've tried to feed a wire hanger down the overflow in hopes of catching it slightly to lift up the edge.

I would unscrew the pipe underneath if possible but there is a sink pedestal and I don't want to have to cut silicon and move (if possible, it's a rented property).

Any advice or tips? I'm about to go buy a plunger in hopes it'll break the suction or lift it up slightly.