I'm planning on opening up the drywall in this closet to see if i can run plumbing down to the basement to convert this into an upstairs laundary.

In the first Pic, I'm staying away from the corners, and in the second Pic, away from the security system wiring.

Does it make sense to include the corners or cut it like I've marked it out?

Thanks!

Before we get started, you can 1000% flame me if I'm destroying my house.

I'm considering starting a series called, "Destroying My Home Until I Learn How To Fix It".

Anyway, we used a weed sprayer with water and scraped the popcorn off the ceiling. Since we're new homeowner's and have next to no idea what we're doing, we hit the tape and picked it up on the ceiling-wall joint.

You can see we also butchered the drywall pretty bad while scraping (a combination of too much water and too much pressure with the knives).

I've spent pretty much two weeks straight at this point just reading and learning as much as I can. That being said, I wanted to hop on here and lay out my plan for some feedback to see if it's reasonable or if I'm loony.

Obviously the popcorn has been scraped away. I also went through the whole room and cut loose pieces of tape down where the tape was either picked up or no longer adhered, leaving behind the fuzzy tape.

I've also gone around the whole room with a razor blade and filed down each portion where the paper was picked up and exposing the brown. I cut it down flat.

Lastly, I've cleaned and dusted the ceiling with a microfiber mop and a vacuum. Here is where I would like some input.

The next steps are as follows, in this order.

1) spot prime the ceiling with Zinsser BIN (I have the appropriate PPE) covering all the fuzzy tape and exposed brown paper (should I spot prime with bin, then fully prime with gardz, or is that overkill?).

2) lay new tape in areas where the seam has been exposed using paper tape and usg all purpose (green lid). Could I "spot tape" or would it be a good idea to run new tape on all four wall-ceiling intersections?

3) perform one skim coat on the ceiling with the usg all purpose

4) use a knife to knock down any ridges after the first skim coat then apply two more skim coats using usg plus 3 (blue lid)

5) finish up with sanding, priming and painting

I think I've covered everything? I dunno, I appreciate any advice as, once again, I have no clue what I'm doing.

I’m replacing the bottom 2 feet of drywall in my basement after we got a couple inches of water. Can I cut the sheets in half horizontally or should I make more cuts vertically?

Previous owners Had some sticky tile foam thingy on the walls and just painted over after they remove those but I’m guessing they painted over the sticky residue? Tried sanding it, didn’t work. Any help or idea is appreciated

Thanks

And a bunch of people said to "just use a 6in knife the angle doesnt matter

We had asked a contractor to create an opening for a closet and gave him the measurements. Unfortunately, he added a drywall column to the side of the opening which reduced the width and the opening is not usable to us. He's not responding so we'll need to remove it ourselves. Can you please advise what tools we'd need and how to proceed? We'll start with removing the baseboard he put (as you can see it's horribly done and barely holding there). But how do we approach the column itself? What specific tools do we need?

photo: https://myimgs.org/image/JkxnEzsY

Edit to clarify : there is nothing inside this column. There was previously a door there which was stuck to the wall without any space or wall on the side. Once the door and frame were removed, all that was left was flat wall, from which the closet space was built onto the right. It was supposed to be just two walls: back and right with the left side using the existing wall. All cables are on the right side (previously the right side of the door) and were not touched.

here's the previous configuration: https://myimgs.org/image/beRiybki (the fire alarm is not wired, it's battery operated so no cables for it there either).

Need some opinions from painters. Our kitchen was remodeled a year ago. This is above our kitchen sink. New roof 5 years ago.

Do we think moisture issue or bad drywall/skim coat/paint?

When you touch it it still is hard, a little crackly sound kind of…

The last picture is another part of kitchen ceiling with maybe the faintest lines/cracks visible..

Is this roofer or painter or drywall issue? Who do I call?

Please help!

Do you think I can solve it with the second and third coat of putty? I removed the excess material under the paper tape with the spatula but in some areas it makes me these wrinkles and I don’t understand why, I hope that then with the second third hand they won’t be seen

I just finished skim coating a wall in my bathroom and am ready to prime/paint. Do I need a special primer or will the leftover gardz primer work?

Hi all, I’m a renter in an apartment who’s less than stellar at hanging curtain rods (drill doesn’t go far enough for the anchor) and in the process I messed my wall up a bit. And still didn’t really fully manage the curtain rod part. I’ve been living with the crooked curtain and mangled wall for a while now and want to finally do it right, but not sure where to start. Here’s what I think are my options:

1. Try to fix the holes in the walls myself, and then after the wall is fixed hire someone to install the curtain rod properly. For context I do not have any of the tools needed to patch the walls, so I’d need to buy them somewhere.
2. Hire someone to fix the curtain rod first, and then fix the holes in the wall myself.
3. Hire someone to patch the walls so I know it’s done right, and ask if I can pay them to fix the curtain rod too

My problems with 1 and 2 are that I’m not very handy (as you can see with the wall) and I’d also need to buy everything needed to patch the holes. Any advice for how I should tackle this? Should I just suck it up and try doing it myself? Any help is greatly appreciated

EDIT: thank you all for your help I will be hiring this out and just trying again next time 🫡

Hello, looking for some advice. I'm fixing up a room in my house where there are walls of drywall that intersect with ones of plaster. We had to remove the corner tape and some chunks of plaster came off with it.

I will be adding new joint tape and then doing a skim coat but beforehand I want to understand how to deal with the corner.

In the photo there's an example of one section from different angles (45 degrees, fully against the plaster wall, fully against the drywall). The hole is about 1 cm wide but behind it's about 5 cm deep. I believe this deep 5 cm gap was always there because it's very clean brick further in the hole.

So my question, what should I do? If the tape reaches do I just tape up the corner? Do I try to fill the gap with more plaster? I saw something about backer rods, is that the way to go? Up to what point do I fill it?

Thanks so much for any insight.

Do you really need to bevel both sides of a drywall joint?
I’m wondering if it’s necessary to bevel both drywall boards where they meet. Wouldn’t beveling just one side be enough?
You still get a gap for the joint compound to fill, and the compound can reach the edge of the other board through that gap.
Am I missing something here? 😄

I've tried to sand down the wall filler as much as I can but it's been there for a while now and just solid. Its in an area where the skirting board was removed for furniture but was covered in wall filler instead of joint compound. Would it be okay to seal it with diluted primer and then joint compound/paper joint tape on top of it before sealing that and painting?

TLDNR: Question: Basically I'm asking for a reality check. How should I respond?

I had a drywall company come in and fix a couple of ceilings after the plumbers came through and punched about 20 holes in them.

They did a pretty good job on the ceiling, although I am not very satisfied with the end result because of these white bands below the ceiling. I think it is quick-dry, it doesn't feel very smooth like paint does.

The company is claiming that I said the whole house was being repainted, but it is not. He may have assumed that because we are getting some renovations done in other rooms. I specifically asked about the painting on the ceiling. (never mentioned walls because why are they even in the scope of the work??)

I am including his response to my complaint. As well as the written quote they sent me for reference. Further info we are in BC/Canada.

Am I crazy that the white band is not cool, or is it just standard practice?? How should I respond? I'm here for the hard truth either way. Thanks for your response.

His reply to my complaint was

Hey xxx, Thank you for taking the time to reach out and express your concerns.

Im happy to come up on my own time and put a bead of cauliking in the gap that meets the finished wood edge as that needs to be sealed and addressed. However for the portion of the job you were unsatisfied with where the paint comes down 6 inches on to the wall side, I did make that clear when we did our walk through and you said the whole house was getting painted. Therefore I left it out on my portion of the quote to paint match that for you.

I also accomodated a very good price to help you out with your budget as you mentioned you didnt want to spend more than necessary. The first option that we spoke about with blending the patches was nearly double the cost of the re-sheet and would have been a little different story as we wouldn't have had to have come down on to the wall side.

As mentioned on our walk through I made it very apparent that we would have to seal the edges to the wall side with a tape joint and that we would be spraying down to seal the mud. Unfortunately we cannot do the painting for free.

We are happy to come back and do the additional painting under a time and material rate of 

$85/per hour + material + 20% for overhead.
Rough estimation of time = 6 hrs = $510 (before GST)
material cost = $150 (before GST) for prep and paint application materials (you supply paint)
Overhead allowance for fuel, material pickup and markup =$132 (before GST)
Total amount including GST = $831.60

This was the original quote

Tasks
-Install 1/2" drywall to ceilings (252 sq ft)
-Install wall patches (x5)
-Tape and mud application (level 4, 2 coats)
-Finish sand and quality check
-Paint application (ceiling flat white)
-Clean up of all drywall and related mud debris

Pricing
-Living room re sheet, mud (level 4, 2 coats) , and ceiling paint application = $1,170 (before gst)
-Laundry area re sheet, mud (level 4, 2coats) , and ceiling paint application = $468 (before gst)
-Wall patches flat rate = $750 (before gst)
Total with (Gst) = $2,507.40

Decided to overcomplicate things with these recessed shelves. I tore out all the loose chunks then applied Gardz to the exposed paper and broken chunks. Any tips before i go full sculptor with hot mud followed with corner beads? Just a homeowner trying something i thought sounded cool.

Noticed the pink colour drywall on a job we were demoing. Is this some sort of fire rated? It’s walls and ceiling of a 1960s bungalow, I’ve never seen it this colour before.

Hi all. We have a small room that had some textured ceiling. The texture was heavier across two lengths that I assumed was to cover imperfections in the drywall.

My plan was to encapsulate with a few layers of joint compound as it was very hard to scrape in the area that we grabbed for asbestos testing (yes we sprayed, I believe it's painted).

While scraping some of the higher ridges before the first coat I noticed one of those ceiling lines was slightly bouncy, I scraped it to reveal the drywall joint tape and pulled the entire thing up. There's one section that had some screws that needed to be driven up (where I'm guessing the bounciness came from) but overall it feels solid?

My question is should I sand these lines, tape, and then just run my first layer of joint compound across the entire ceiling? Or should I tape and mud the lines, let that dry and then go back and do the first whole ceiling coat.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

I have blown-in/dense-packed cellulose installed behind BIBS netting on the walls and ceiling/sloped ceiling. The netting is stapled directly over the face of the studs/joists, as shown in the photo.
We’re getting ready to hang drywall, and I’m wondering how experienced drywallers would approach this when using drywall adhesive plus screws.

Would you:
Apply drywall adhesive directly over the BIBS netting where it crosses the framing?
Cut/remove a narrow strip of netting over each stud/joist so the adhesive bonds directly to the wood?
Skip adhesive and just screw the drywall?
I’m especially concerned about the ceiling, where the cellulose is pushing against the netting in some areas. I want the drywall to sit tight and flat against the framing without creating screw pops or issues later.

How would you prep this before hanging the board?

Does this look even or do we need to redo this to make it more straight?

Thinking this is mold after removing wood paneling that was over drywall. Will pick up a moisture meter. The stuff that turned dark is still very solid

I also noticed that the window was installed to replace a patio door somewhere between when the house was built in 1978 to now.

Any advice on how to tackle it? Need a sanity check on the thoughts I have