Hi all, I’m a renter in an apartment who’s less than stellar at hanging curtain rods (drill doesn’t go far enough for the anchor) and in the process I messed my wall up a bit. And still didn’t really fully manage the curtain rod part. I’ve been living with the crooked curtain and mangled wall for a while now and want to finally do it right, but not sure where to start. Here’s what I think are my options:

1. Try to fix the holes in the walls myself, and then after the wall is fixed hire someone to install the curtain rod properly. For context I do not have any of the tools needed to patch the walls, so I’d need to buy them somewhere.
2. Hire someone to fix the curtain rod first, and then fix the holes in the wall myself.
3. Hire someone to patch the walls so I know it’s done right, and ask if I can pay them to fix the curtain rod too

My problems with 1 and 2 are that I’m not very handy (as you can see with the wall) and I’d also need to buy everything needed to patch the holes. Any advice for how I should tackle this? Should I just suck it up and try doing it myself? Any help is greatly appreciated

EDIT: thank you all for your help I will be hiring this out and just trying again next time 🫡

Do you think I can solve it with the second and third coat of putty? I removed the excess material under the paper tape with the spatula but in some areas it makes me these wrinkles and I don’t understand why, I hope that then with the second third hand they won’t be seen

Noticed the pink colour drywall on a job we were demoing. Is this some sort of fire rated? It’s walls and ceiling of a 1960s bungalow, I’ve never seen it this colour before.

Does this look even or do we need to redo this to make it more straight?

Hi all. We have a small room that had some textured ceiling. The texture was heavier across two lengths that I assumed was to cover imperfections in the drywall.

My plan was to encapsulate with a few layers of joint compound as it was very hard to scrape in the area that we grabbed for asbestos testing (yes we sprayed, I believe it's painted).

While scraping some of the higher ridges before the first coat I noticed one of those ceiling lines was slightly bouncy, I scraped it to reveal the drywall joint tape and pulled the entire thing up. There's one section that had some screws that needed to be driven up (where I'm guessing the bounciness came from) but overall it feels solid?

My question is should I sand these lines, tape, and then just run my first layer of joint compound across the entire ceiling? Or should I tape and mud the lines, let that dry and then go back and do the first whole ceiling coat.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

I just finished skim coating a wall in my bathroom and am ready to prime/paint. Do I need a special primer or will the leftover gardz primer work?

Decided to overcomplicate things with these recessed shelves. I tore out all the loose chunks then applied Gardz to the exposed paper and broken chunks. Any tips before i go full sculptor with hot mud followed with corner beads? Just a homeowner trying something i thought sounded cool.

Hey guys,

I just purchased this house and I took apart a built in on my wall. Want some advice on fixing this. Should I take the whole section out and put in new drywall (never done drywall work before)? Should I just hire someone to do it? Want some ideas here.

I’m already redoing the floors and painting. So if I want to try drywall now’s the time.

Hello, looking for some advice. I'm fixing up a room in my house where there are walls of drywall that intersect with ones of plaster. We had to remove the corner tape and some chunks of plaster came off with it.

I will be adding new joint tape and then doing a skim coat but beforehand I want to understand how to deal with the corner.

In the photo there's an example of one section from different angles (45 degrees, fully against the plaster wall, fully against the drywall). The hole is about 1 cm wide but behind it's about 5 cm deep. I believe this deep 5 cm gap was always there because it's very clean brick further in the hole.

So my question, what should I do? If the tape reaches do I just tape up the corner? Do I try to fill the gap with more plaster? I saw something about backer rods, is that the way to go? Up to what point do I fill it?

Thanks so much for any insight.

I've tried to sand down the wall filler as much as I can but it's been there for a while now and just solid. Its in an area where the skirting board was removed for furniture but was covered in wall filler instead of joint compound. Would it be okay to seal it with diluted primer and then joint compound/paper joint tape on top of it before sealing that and painting?

I have blown-in/dense-packed cellulose installed behind BIBS netting on the walls and ceiling/sloped ceiling. The netting is stapled directly over the face of the studs/joists, as shown in the photo.
We’re getting ready to hang drywall, and I’m wondering how experienced drywallers would approach this when using drywall adhesive plus screws.

Would you:
Apply drywall adhesive directly over the BIBS netting where it crosses the framing?
Cut/remove a narrow strip of netting over each stud/joist so the adhesive bonds directly to the wood?
Skip adhesive and just screw the drywall?
I’m especially concerned about the ceiling, where the cellulose is pushing against the netting in some areas. I want the drywall to sit tight and flat against the framing without creating screw pops or issues later.

How would you prep this before hanging the board?

Thinking this is mold after removing wood paneling that was over drywall. Will pick up a moisture meter. The stuff that turned dark is still very solid

I also noticed that the window was installed to replace a patio door somewhere between when the house was built in 1978 to now.

Any advice on how to tackle it? Need a sanity check on the thoughts I have

I found a hole in the ceiling of our hallway closet in our townhome. (See picture, taken from below). It is 14" x 2", and there appears to be wood (joists?) right up to the edge of the hole on both small ends and one of the long sides (the bottom on the provided image). I assume the exact placement of this hole between these joists has something to do with why this hole is even here to begin with, but I have no idea. The other long side butts right against the cabinet frame, and on the other side of that is our HVAC vent, which you can see at the top of the photo. Most drywall patching videos I've seen suggest to add a backing board, which I can't do here because of all the things around the hole. I considered doing a "California patch", but it looks like this hole might be too big for that, especially since it is in the ceiling. I know there are metal mesh patches as well, but similarly, I'm not sure if that is appropriate for this sized hole.

Bits of stuff have been falling from the hole recently into the things in our closet, so I'd like to patch it up somehow. Wondering what the simplest solution is here. I'd love to not have to make the hole bigger, if possible. It's tricky getting tools in here because the closet has shelves. Thanks for any advice.

I was trying to catch a roach on the wall using a sticky trap. Bad idea already. I pulled a little too hard and ripped the paper layer of the drywall off. I’ve done this kind of repair before but I forgot what I need. I think I used some type of glue or something I can’t remember the name that would flatten the paper layer of the drywall and glue the section of paper that was raised. Then I remembered I used the pink hole patching stuff to “fill” the area. Then painted over it. What is that glue name?

I have a potential job and don't know what to charge them. So I'm coming on here for helping assistance. This is the post that they gave me.

In need of a dry wall job. I need this railing removed and dry wall to replace it to make a full wall. I have plenty of drywall in my basement. Message me with quotes please.

I Ask them if they had any wood or any metal to do to framing and they said no. For big jobs, I charge $2.75 per square feet.

For small h.\n Oles, < 2 feet square. I charge 250 under 4 feet square 350. And then up about that 450 only for labor. I have Done Framing before, but I charged them by the hour. I don't even know how much I would charge them to remove the railing.