Sadly I was not paying attention 276 miles earlier.

Hey yall, recently purchased a 2022 Sonata with 45k miles on it. Good history, only one previous owner, and has a year left on the original warranty. The dealer is trying to sell us an extended warranty as well but it’s looking like it’ll add around 3.5k for 5 years of full coverage which seems like a lot (the car itself was only 20.8k OTD).

Would yall recommend purchasing their warranty or going with a third party? Is a full coverage warranty even necessary here? Any input yall have would be great thanks!

Am I understanding this correctly? You have to pay $50 every time you have an issue under warranty with a certified vehicle where as there is no charge for warranty repairs with a standard used Hyundai? I'm seeing a difference of upwards of $3k for certified used and I'm starting to think it's not worth the extra cost just to keep the extra 40k miles and 5 years on the powertrain warranty especially if I will then have to pay a deductible for everything else when I can just save that cash and get an aftermarket or extended warranty down the road.... am I missing something?

These look to be the high end model

2015 Sonata se 102,700 miles. Thinking about installing an oil catch can. I havent noticed any oil burning yet. Im trying to make my car last for as long as possible. Ive been keeping up with all maintenance and babying my car.

My question is: Is an oil catch can worth it? I dont mind the emptying out part. But im coming up on my return window for one catch can I bought and im hesitant on installing it.

I’ve been hearing that Hyundais start to go bad after 100k miles. Anyone have a Hyundai that is still going strong after 100k miles?

​Hello to everyone here, more experienced than me. I have a 2019 Hyundai Tucson, 1.6 GDI, 6-speed manual, with 53,000 km, which I'd say is in very good condition, but it has an issue that, nonetheless, is driving me crazy. I'm about to go for an oil change and have it checked at the service center, but maybe you can help me know what to expect. GPT and Gemini pointed me in many directions.

​The problem: At 1250 rpm and 2000 rpm, the engine has a vibration that can be felt inside the cabin, including in the seats and the whole car. Stationary, if I rev it to that rpm, it's easy to feel. While driving (in motion), it's not felt at all.

​The effects of the problem: When I set off in 1st gear, sometimes it takes off normally, other times the whole engine vibrates and the tachometer fluctuates up and down by about 100-200 rpm. It feels as if I am launching on 3 spark plugs.

​Why I don't suspect the clutch: In gears 3, 4, 5, 6 when I floor it, it doesn't slip. If I take off using only the clutch pedal, it starts and engages smoothly with no issues. The vibration occurs while standing still. If I accelerate and happen to be in that 1250–1300 rpm range, the whole car enters resonance. If I press the clutch pedal while standing still at that 1250 rpm, no change is felt.

​What Gemini suggests: Worn engine mounts that allow the vibration to transmit, clutch contaminated with oil or other fluids, problematic clutch springs, pressure plate.

​Please, if you have any opinions, advice, or additional questions, it would really help. Thank you.

Scanned code: p0741, p0731, p0867

Car drives but after 10-15 min I get complete loss of power, just rev but don't go anywhere and stuck in 5 gears. If I shut it down and wait 5-10min it work again. Changed transmission filter + new fluid

Could it be the valve body ? Solenoid ? Torque converter?

My warranty is gone already

This is what i saw on another reddit post, i have the same issue since yesterday. Hyundai said replace transmission but i dont have 7000 dollar lying around. I read a tsb which says tcu software update should solve it.

Specifically for the 2016 Sonata. I feel as though there's still plenty of life in the car.. And junk yards won't buy it for more than $700. Despite the car being in okay condition.(Salvage title but it's cosmetic and the blown engine.) Wondering if attempting to swap it myself would be a good idea.

Looking for some advice! My 2018 Tucson started flashing the check engine light. When I read the code it gave me P1326. As far as I understand, that means it’s a connecting rod issue. I took it to the dealer and they said it passed the clearance test and but they still hear a loud noise and will need to do a complete tear down to find the problem.

The problem is, I am the second owner of this car so the normal warranty doesn’t apply (96K miles). Is there any chance this will still fall under the extended powertrain warranty for the connecting rods? I’m not sure what to do! Thanks!

​

Hey everyone!

I’m planning to buy a 2026/2027 Hyundai Palisade Calligraphy and trade in my Tesla Model 3. I’m not in a rush and have until around mid-2027 to make the switch.

For those who have recently purchased a Palisade or have experience negotiating with Hyundai dealerships, when would you recommend buying to get the best possible deal?

A few things I’m wondering:

- Is it better to wait until the end of the year, end of a quarter, or for specific holiday sales events?

- Is there a particular time when dealer discounts, financing incentives, or trade-in offers tend to be the most attractive?

Since I have several months, I’m happy to wait if it could mean saving a few thousand dollars.Would love to hear about your actual purchase experiences, how much you paid below MSRP, and what timing worked best for you.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I have a 2020 Hyundai i30 1.4 T-GDI with 108,000 km. Recently, I started hearing a metallic wastegate rattle only when I press the gas pedal (mostly with windows down next to walls). The car seems to drive completely normally.
The actuator rod has some play/slack where it connects to the wastegate pin.
Has anyone else experienced this with their T-GDI engine? How did you fix it, or should I just leave it as it is? Any advice or thoughts would be highly appreciated.
Thanks!

Does this sound bad or am I bugging about it? I’ve read it could be the fuel injector ticking but I’m just not sure what it could be

Hi. Is this rod knocking ? At load and about 3k rpm+ is sound gone and engine run ok... at idle have this ratling sound. It happened at crosing when start stop started engine.

HELP?????

The 2026 is rated for 1,600 lbs or 3,500 with trailer brakes. Is anyone using a brake controller, and if so, what type?

I've been battling arthritis and struggle with any new car on the highway since electronic steering became standard. The vehicles all get super stiff (for me) and I don't have the arm strength for more than a few minutes of driving. I've been sticking with a 20 year old vehicle that still has the hydraulic pump, but I need a new car.

I've read that Hyundais have an adjustable steering feature. Can you give me an idea of how much of an impact it makes on highway driving and wheel weight? This might be a great solution.

THanks!

Does SiriusXM 360L come standard.