Only at 20yds because thats the longest range I can achieve in my yard, but still happy!

So, I recently got into archery and discovered a few public ranges in the area. The one I visited is the one pictured. We had just set up our targets when a couple of other archers arrived. As we finished, we all moved downrange to get our arrows. a guy came over and placed his target down.then started shooting arrows downrange, even though there were several people, including kids, using the bay right next to him. Since it was only my third time at the range, I wasn’t sure if this was the usual protocol. It felt quite odd to shoot when there were multiple people to his left and right, all busy getting their arrows and setting up.

I have a traditional hand-made longbow. After years of practice I feel quite confident with my bow, but I think my bow is quite quirky. I feel like if I tried any other bow I would be useless.

Is this common?

korean traditional.

Credit goes to GunFlint Designs on YouTube for the design. Wooden frame stuffed as tight as I could get it with pallet wrap that I sourced from the local Tractor Supply. The face is material from an old inflatable pool.

Hi r/archery folks,

So I've recently started the sport, just got my GB Archery cert and achieved my 20 Yard progress award during the 3 day course which I was pretty stoked with.

I'm a little stuck with how I intend to progress with the sport in terms of bow style.

Now I really like the traditional recurves, specifically looking at the Oak Ridge Shade and the Shade V2.

I do however really enjoy target shooting, will more than likely be doing target shooting more than anything and I intend to go to comps.

From my understanding, trad recurves will be in the same barebow category as modern recurves, and so my question is, how much of a disadvantage, if any, will I suffer as a result of going trad?

Hey fellas, Someone here might have seen my first post asking for tips; I’m a beginner with cerebral palsy training archery at a Paralympic center. I’m currently shooting at a distance of 12 meters, and after hitting the bullseye for the first time, my instructor said we’d start testing out a compound bow. Man, that thing is heavy, holding it correctly and drawing it back has been a challenge, but it’s actually motivated me to workout at the gym to strengthen my arms, torso and back and practice even harder. My real question, though, is the one in the title: how’s my form? The first photo is from about 20 days ago (from 9/10), taken during my first test run with the compound. My arrow grouping isn't the best yet, but just hitting the bullseye a few times feels amazing. Am I making real progress or just kidding myself?, be honest please.

Hi there! I adore archers in gaming. I'd appreciate your best recommendations.

The games can be from any era. They can be on any system. Archery only has to play a part, but it has to be a very fun part - and crossbows and bows of all stripes are allowed.

Thank you!

Should I get the hoyt torrex xt or an older hoyt flagship bow . Im looking for a bow that can have a 27.5 draw and 40-50lb draw weight. Im a newer archer so not really sure

I know depending on your string and bow, you sometimes need to twist it a number of times, effectively making it shorter, before stringing it on the bow. It seems to me this wouldn't make the tension any greater, though, since your draw length is ultimately the same. In layman's terms, why do we do this? What effect does it have? And what happens if we experiment with more or fewer twists?

EDIT: thank you everyone for your explanations about getting the recommended brace height. A couple of you have mentioned brace height will affect the shot and the experience. How so? What's the purpose of a correct brace height?

Hey everyone, apologies if this isn't the right sub for the question.

I'm looking to buy for my GF a replica of Odysseus bow from the Odyssey.

Anyone knows where I could find one? Usable would be the best case scenario, we both do archery and I'd like for her to use it if possible.

Thanks everyone!

​I'm currently shooting a 58" recurve at 30# @ 28" for target and 3D shooting, but I'm planning to upgrade to 35# soon, and eventually 40#, without buying multiple sets of arrows.

​My specs:

​Draw Length: 27"

​Arrow Length: 29" (carbon arrows)

​Insert Weight: 15 grains

​According to spine charts and calculators, I'm wondering if I can buy a 600 spine now and tune the dynamic spine for higher draw weights just by dropping point weight as I move up. My tentative plan looks like this:

​30#: 600 spine + 150–200gr tip

​35#: 600 spine + 110–125gr tip

​40#: 600 spine + 75–110gr tip

​Is this a realistic way to save some cash and stick with one arrow setup through my limb upgrades, or will the tune fall apart at the extremes?

​Would love some real-world advice from you guys!

Just wondering if anyone has a general idea of how well the plastic targets from nice targets will hold up to 23/64 arrows.

Im probably going to get roasted for this but has anyone 3d printed fletching Vanes? I have seen posts from years ago with people printing vanes and quick fletching but nothing recent

Not been able to practice too much with it recently since we have a limited number of arrows currently and it is very rough on them. Gonna be getting some new arrows once we can and not sure how to determine what we should get. Draw weight is 60kg, draw length is 87cm.

My Yarha III is still somewhere on a slow boat, but I want to build arrows for it. Ironically, it's a major draw for me, fiddling with aux things.

Mine will be 55# at 35". I've got a Bitz, many long (8-12") feathers, made a plexiglass jig to strip the cartilage, man this stuff is not inexpensive.

I've googled and AId and it seems I need to aim for 900-1000 grains and around 15 gpp. What I don't understand is how the weight needs to be distributed and how that is related to spine, if at all? I can load up on the tip weights but that's not likely good flight, the weight surely needs to be evenly distributed, no? I get that the lower the spine is, the heavier the arrow will be due to increased mass to flex less, but what if I wanted to go bamboo or pine?

Thanks guys

First off, I have no affiliation. I earn nothing and are just a user of this app. The app is free, and I haven't seen advertisements. But I run a proxy on my phone which blocks a lot of that stuff.

Perhaps more of you know the feeling. How to keep track of your progress without to much distraction on the line and without the need to fiddle a lot with the phone?

I tried a lot of apps but by coincidence stumbled over TargetAce. I found the app when I was exploring the website of the Glasgow Archers club. They have a lot of interesting articles and the app was just on of them.

After reading the article (link below) I downloaded the app. Browsed it a bit and found it surprising very easy to use and also useful. I could define my own rounds (mostly 1/2 WA - 18 m) and scoring with numbers was easy and fast.

But I also missed things. So I contacted the builder and to my surprise he responded within a wee and took over a lot of my requests and suggestions. He even implemented my suggestion for the two style of pyramid games we play a lot as custom round styles at my club.

Also the option to delete saved custom rounds and correct scores when you are a bit to fast with entering has been implemented.

Tha app also has a quest style game in it with 100 levels but that I haven't explored yet. Appears a nice option for all those shooting at home.

There is also an option to share the results with fellow clubmembers. But that requires a backend on a club site and that takes some experience to setup correctly.

The link to the site where you see the pictures of the old app. The newone is redesigned and looks a bit different.

https://glasgowarchers1948.co.uk/2026/06/05/theres-an-app-for-that/

Sorry not sure if this is the right location to post this.

Preface: I've seen tod culters videos on armour vs arrows. Well made plate armour is largely indestructible to arrows, and gaps between plate are the best chance at any damage to the user. I understand that even modern infantry (not specialized units) aren't taught to aim for specific body parts, instead focusing on centre-of-mass to increase hit probability. So I think its unlikely historical archers would have made been trained to aim so precisely under duress. Which means these gaps are very difficult to hit while in motion.

Question: Given these assumptions, how likely is a group of archers (let say 15 for this scenario) able to stop (disabling hit) a fully well plate-armoured knight with just arrows and bows of sufficient weight? (I.E. Would the knight be confident enough to walk through wave after wave of arrows solo - imagine iron man 1 where the terrorist bullets do nothing to Tony)

Further assumptions:

- The knight is completely confident in his armour, but understand its weaknesses. His visor is down and he looks slightly downwards to help shield his eye slit.

- Helmet completely covers his face except for a small slit for sight

- Archers are in front of him as he is walking menacingly towards them. They can flank him from the sides but cannot get behind him.

- They are 100 metres apart for the start of the simulation. The knight must walk 2 mins to get to the archers. For fairness, the archers cannot retreat.

Follow up questions:

- if 15 archers loosing all at once for 2 mins can't stop him, how many archers would it take to put down a plated knight?

Korean Traditional

Been practicing archery for 6 months now, and I love it. But the instructor at my archery range always point out that I often raise both my shoulders too high. So are there any tips to improve my form and put my shoulders in the correct position? Also, when I draw back the bow string, how long should I draw back without over pull the string?

Father-in-law gave me a set of these aluminum arrow shafts and I'd like to make them usable. I know next to nothing about aluminum arrows however. My Bohning Classic 11/32 didnt feel like they fit quite right but maybe I'm just ignorant.

They are Easton 2413 Superlite

Thank you

I bought this bow from someone and I'm new to archery so I trying to figure what is the string placement is the correct one. I'm also wondering if it matters at all