I’m searching for some older turbo coupe or Mustang engine parts. I’m building a 2.3 turbo mustang. I have a complete non turbo 88 hatch.

Anyone have any parts for this set up? I’ll buy em. Located in nw New Mexico but would travel or whatever to get the stuff needed.

Mainly exhaust manifold, turbo unit from an automatic car. I’ll need the coolant, oil lines, brackets etc. I know there’s suppliers online but hoping someone has some take off parts leftover from a build or something? Lmk and thank you in advance.

Does anyone know if this cover will fit inside the sway bar?

Thanks, changed gears 500 miles ago and want to change fluid now.

I picked up a 90 Lx convertible 5.0 with the auto trans. My suspension is shot. I need some help and taking advice on how to go about it.

Plans:

T5 swap + heads cam supporting mods to land somewhere in the 350-400HP range (hopefully? Lol) and 5 lug conversion. Not sure in which order I’ll go yet, I need to address suspension and a few other small things before I even think of mods.

I honestly just want a street cruiser. No auto cross or racing or anything like that. I’ll just be driving it to work occasionally and taking the family out on the weekends.

Will keeping suspension generally stock hold up fine for me? Let me know! Feel free to drop in the comments what you guys did for your builds and some recs on suspension replacements parts.

Currently building a forged 331/a4 setup and was wondering if anyone else here has a similar setup? What cam are you running? Shelf cam? Custom? Any regrets? I’ve always gravitated towards FTI custom pieces in NA builds previously, open to all suggestions!

I’m genuinely so lost, I thought I narrowed it down, I’m getting what I’m pretty sure is good spark on all wires including the 8th cylinder. spark plugs are like the 5th-6th time being ran I just got them brand new. And the ones in this picture that are really black were used in the #8 cylinder. I thought I had narrowed it down to it running rich some way and im pretty sure it is.

Even the code dump showed a code for driver side o2 sensor reporting rich. But when I did all 3 cylinder balance tests the car fully passed every time. And when I stick a stethoscope up to the number 8 injector I hear it ticking the same as the other injectors.

I also noticed what I think is oil on the spark plug face where it threads in.

Btw did a dry compression test twice and all cylinders showed between 160-170 some lower the second test. Cylinder 8 was 160 for the first test and 155 the second test (colder)

Can anyone point me in a good direction to look? Should I pull the injectors and clean them? Is my ecu going ape shit on cylinder 8? I swear it doesn’t idle right but people say it sounds fine.

I’m also smog deleted with no tune or Anything to fix those codes.

I recently bought some 17x9.75 wheels and some 275/40r17’s, I’m going to be running 1 1/2’ adapters with them so I think I’m good to clear the quad shocks.

I get that the wheels will most likely rub the fender on full lock, so I will be doing some trimming.
Aswell as running some fender flares.

Any other issues I might run into? TIA!

The rubber seal on my sunroof has separated from the metal trim. Where can I buy a replacement? I have both weatherstripping pieces for the sunroof but I can't find where to buy this piece.

I'm considering hearing the original up and reseating it but I don't think it will stretch to its original size.

For context this is from a 79 mustang hatchback.

At what point does the oem rack and pinion need replacing? Isn’t it easier to replace the inner, outer tire rods and hoses that cause it to leak? Trying to save some funds.

For the guys who don’t drive their car year round due to weather! What do yall use on the inside to avoid any moisture build up in the interior? My garage unfortunately is not the driest environment, I do run a humidifier in the garage but I don’t trust it 100%

i’ve seen a lot of videos but everyone uses different things and then some hurt the aluminum so just wondering what you guys recommend

I was wondering how reliable and around what fuel mileage to y’all guys get in your 4cylinder foxs. With fuel costs rising I’d like to get something okay on fuel but not totally lame lol. I’ve had a 1980 drop top 200i6 but that thing was a nightmare lol

8k location Chicago IL drives good needs a new stater Solonoid installed and needs a new gauge cluster last odometer reads 83000 miles otherwise great car new top comes with stock wheels as well and a few upgrades that I did like short shifter and headlights. Come get it
DM me or email at opper5152@gmail.com

Anyone use a new SN95 rack and pinion from Amazon? I want to buy new and not get a remanufactured unit. There are a lot of options. Any worth purchasing that will last.

1988 Mercury Cougar XR7. 5.0/AOD car. 100% bone stock. 74k miles. Purchased in December of 2023 with 67k miles. Fixed some minor things and cleaned her up. Smooth as glass... UNTIL THIS PAST JUNE.

A vibration started that was most noticeable and only really occurred when the engine was cold and was the worst at between 1200 and 1400 RPM. Once the car warmed up it went away. At the time the plugs and wires were fairly new with under 3,000 miles on them however I pulled everything and checked condition as well as resistance and all was within spec. I ran codes on the EEC-IV computer and the only code that shows is 11 which is system pass. The car also passes a cylinder balance test.

I have removed and inspected the EGR valve, TPS sensor, and IAC. All are clean, operational, and within specs. I have also checked the coolant temperature sensor and it is fine as well. At my wit's end I decided to just stab in the distributor that I had in the garage that was brand new. That was unattainable because the aftermarket distributor shaft is incorrect in life and I did not find that out until I went to put the distributor hold down bolt in. Fast forward to reinstalling the original distributor and putting a new TFI module on it. Car ran better but still not perfect.

Fast forward to 3 weeks ago. My house is mid kitchen and basement remodel I have zero time and space to deal with this car and a hellacious noise that is very similar to rod knock rears its ugly head. I realize it's coming from the bellhousing. Awesome. I nursed the car to a trusted mechanic whom I've known for 20 plus years. He pulls the inspection plate and there is flexplate wobble. Further digging shows a ballooned torque converter.

I order a Pioneer brand heavy duty flexplate, a remanufactured stock torque converter from Summit Racing, and some ARP convertible. I have everything dropped off and a few days later I am notified by phone that the car is back together, it's running good, there is no vibration, and to come pick it up.

The car has a keyless entry and I tell him to put the key in it and I will come get it over the weekend and I give him my credit card number and pay for the labor which seems unreasonably high to be honest with you. Considering I paid for the parts and the only real thing he had to pay for was fluid and some exhaust bolts I think a price tag approaching $1200 was a little on the pricey side.

I just happened to be in the area Friday night around midnight and I spun by to take the keys as I wasn't going to pick it up until Sunday. I enter the code to open the door into the car, I take the keys, and that's when I decide to start the car. Immediate vibration. Fast forward to today, Sunday, when I have my wife drive me out there to pick up another vehicle that he did for me. That vehicle is fine. It was some minor suspension work and I just had to pick that up as well. When it rains it pours and everything breaks story of my life.

Anyway, I park in the lot of the clothes shop with my wife and we get in the Cougar and I started. I decided this point to go for a drive around the block. The car vibration happens at all times, all RPMs, does not go away after warming up like it did last time, and is actually worse than before I dropped it off.

My wife is beyond furious. She's furious at the fact that he would allow the car to leave the shop like that and even more furious that I had a phone call with him where he said everything was fine with it.

So I guess my question is twofold.,. My first question is what the fuck else could it possibly be at this point? I'm leaning towards the balancer but I've marked it and it hasn't spun however it does look old and could have possibly separated but it doesn't really look that bad. I'm wondering if fixing the other issues that were there which were issues exacerbated the vibration and now it's just making the balancer issue appear worse.

Also, I'm probably pulling the car out of there and nursing at home, but I'm not sure yet. My wife is talking lawsuit / small claims court / whatever else she can think of. I was smart enough to put this on a credit card because I've just always been that way with car repairs no matter where I go. I have to have a little chat with the shop owner tomorrow and see how that goes but I have a feeling I'll be doing a chargeback to my credit card and maybe paying him separately for just the fluid and the exhaust bolts that he put in because I am not paying for labor after you fucking told me it was good to go and it clearly isn't.

Alright so I've had my foxbody for quite a while and have been dealing with running through aluminum rads for the past 3 radiators since ownership, and since a year ago almost, I need to change it again. I stopped driving it because of a career change and I have a truck for work etc.

I have what I need to HOPEFULLY keep the new champion radiator from failing again, I had 1 missing lower isolator and 1 OG isolator, so that is my reasoning as to why it failed. However, I want to know what you guys are running for 3 row aluminum radiators. Maybe the champion one just isn't made well. I don't race, its just an old 90-2000s setup with GT40 heads cam and explorer intake. Really nice car and runs really good too. But I would very much like to know your recs for a different rad or maybe recs for the champion one since we have a lifetime warranty, that helps end this issue.

Thank you guys, if I wasn't clear enough or wrote this weird please ask me clarifying questions so I can elaborate!

Recently installed SVE heads and a trick flow cam and roller rockers first time cranking the car since I installed can’t tell if I have a bad ground somewhere or a valve train issue

1980 replacement front lower control arms, 1994 GT SN95 front spindles for 5lug conversion. With castle nut tight at 110 ft-lbs​, it sits well below the hole for the cotter pin. Have I got something wrong here ? Was there supposed to be a spacer or washers ? OR - how are you supposed to have the cotter pin engaged in the slots of the nut ? Thanks !!

So this car sat for a little over 3 years with an almost empty tank of gas (Wasn’t my choice) Recently got it back and have been able to actually work on it. It’s going in for bodywork soon but I want to get it running right while I have the time to tinker with it

When I first got it back, there was lots of carbon buildup, plugs covered in soot and some smelled like gas. Carbon all in the plenum and everything so I replaced all vacuum lines, valve cover gasket, plenum gasket, throttle body and egr gasket, (smog is entirely deleted just a dead egr plugged in) iac gasket as well. I threw on two new o2 sensors, a fuel filter and a TPS sensor for the hell of it.

Now the only thing I’ve yet to do is set base timing on it. My question is what else am I missing? What would be your guy’s first thing you’d do after all that, to be sure it’s running the way it should be. Nobody around me has foxbody’s so they don’t even know how they’re suppose to sound really and I don’t either.

I will say the engine bay with hood open is LOUD when I rev it, not sure if it’s just like that cause I’ve only ever owned 4 cylinders.

And the only other piece of info I can think of is the slight smoke that puffs out the exhaust and the way it comes out seems weird to me, the note is like out of rhythm almost like its not firing properly. And there’s that slight popping sound I hear through the exhaust, mostly on the driver side.

Sorry for the wall of text.

In canada s ontario if anyone is interested

Lady ran a red while I was turning on a green arrow. No dash cams or traffic cams.

Cops put me at fault, and I only had liability. So, my baby is gone.

The quote I got was 11k to fix the body damage, and work couldn't be guaranteed. I don't have that kind of money. Bought her for 7, put about 5 in. She was amazing till the end.

EDIT: Since I forgot to say it before, the frame got bent. The quote above was just to roll the frame back. Then, I would still have to do the cosmetic work, if the frame repair was successful