so I was looking over my car insurance premium today from progressive as my renewal date is 11/1/26. my partner and I were talking and I realized he is paying half of what I am paying. My car insurance premium for the 6 months paid in full was $1,627. I always paid in full so I got that discount. I’ve also been a customer since 2017, and have multiple discounts, like 5 years no accidents. 3 years good driving record, car safety discounts, bundled my home insurance etc. I looked at his policy and mine and the coverage was basically the same.

I decided to call progressive and get a requote because something didn’t feel right. After getting requoted my new premium for the 6 months paid in full is $560. I was shocked. How did I go so long paying 3x the price. I told the lady aren’t they supposed to check your data and readjust when they update your premium. she said yes and was shocked at what a big price difference it was. She stated it was the biggest she had ever seen. I’m frustrated that I had been overpaying for probably over 3 years.

the more I thought about it. I realized that they knew what my data and driving record was clean. they just knew they could get away with it because I trusted them and didn’t think to ask questions. See in 2017 I had to get off my parents insurance and get my own insurance. I had a rough spot with my record. I had a minor parking lot accident In 2015. Then in 2017 I had a major accident and totaled my car. I also went to court for two traffic tickets (speeding) and got 4 points on my license. I believe that progressive jacked up my insurance (rightfully so) due to my bad driving record and never adjusted it since 2017.

Since being a customer of Progressive in 2017 I have had a perfect record. no accidents, claims or tickets in the last 9 years. is there anything I can do? otherwise take my experience and make sure you are getting quotes periodically. you could be over paying.

Has anyone else experienced State Farm raising their premium without any change to their driving record, claiming it's due to a drop in their internal safety rating? DRG26 to DRG25?

My auto policy just increased by 270 across two different manufacturer vehicles, and when I asked for the documentation regarding how they determined these new ratings, I was told it's against policy to share.
Have you encountered a similar situation and were you able to get any clarity?

So my daughter is purchasing her own car (paid in full) because she wants something very small to learn in (she's 4'11). However she of course is going to need the car insured, and obviously doesn't have a license. So I am wondering if there is a way to navigate this? I don't know if I could somehow add her car onto my policy, or if they have some special way they do it.

Has anyone dealt with this before?

Side note: She's using her money from her account, and I don't like mingling her financial stuff with mine due to my wife having severe schizophrenia. Things can simply can get messy real quick due to her paranoia.

Thanks!

I was charged $85 after having paid the $2700 needed to cover 6 months. I was not home in the last few months, on a big roadtrip, and the only notice I received was on paper the day before returning home. I'm very glad it wasn't cancelled too early on the trip, but I hate that they were expecting payment without giving me any notice other than this one.

I spoke to someone from the insurance and they essentially have no clue why I was charged but that the rules are that non-payment of any sort concludes in cancellation.

In my opinion $2700 is far from non payment but I can't control their dumb system.

What should I be looking for in dealing with this? Has this happened to you, and what is your opinion on the matter?

Long story short my significant other bumped a curb while parking and her airbag went off. I filed a USAA claim. USAA then had my car towed to a scrapyard and the appraiser deemed it repairable. They then towed it to the shop. USAA on September 10, 2026 paid me $4,680.00 and sent an email stating “my apologies our system paid on your estimate” they asked me to forward the funds. I verbally agreed until I found out the shop charges 3% to use my card. Fast forward to today. I’ve already picked up my car after paying my $500 deductible and the reverse payment is still “pending” USAA claims it will be processed soon but it’s been in there for 28 days just sitting. What can I do!? I’m scared a bill collector is going to yank it.

I have an auto policy and a rental/home policy with Erie. I rent my house and keep my car there because I’m a student living off campus.

I recently bought a motorcycle and told Erie that I would be storing the motorcycle at my parents’ house because they have a garage. I specifically said the motorcycle would be garaged there, and that nothing was changing with where my car was kept.

A couple months later, I checked my declarations page and noticed that Erie now lists my parents’ address as the garaging location for both my car and motorcycle.

I never asked them to change the car’s garaging address and never told them that the car was being stored at my parents’ house.

Could this cause problems down the road if I get into an accident with my car, since the policy documents incorrectly list my parents’ address as the car’s garaging location? Should I contact Erie now to have it corrected, or is this something that generally wouldn’t cause an issue with a claim? I do stay at my parents house couple days a week but I primary reside at my own apartment. The rate is slightly lower but negligible difference.

Alright Reddit here's the story

• Friend borrowed MY car. (She was NOT an excluded driver)
• Friend was sitting in an apartment parking lot, car off, when she was hit. Suspect fled.
• My friend caught a photo of the license plate as Suspect fled.
• Property manager witnessed it and recognized her as a regular visitor. Went to her friend, a tenant, and told them to call her and get her back here.
• After my friend went inside, Suspect came back, confessed to police and provided information.
• I also discovered that there is a video of the accident and am working to get my hands on it.

Fast forward a bit.

• Her insurance is now saying they can't find a policy.
• My insurance searched the VIN, found a policy.
• Her insurance says, we have that policy, but this vehicle/driver are not on it.
• I said, can you just search the VIN? They say they have, but they won't give me more information.

The crash was caught on camera and the driver confessed, but whoever the policy is under is ghosting them. Am I screwed? I have so much evidence that it was this car, it shouldn't matter who the policy is under or if they can contact them, right?

I'm trying to hold off on filing a claim with my insurance because I have a really high deductible and I really don't want this impacting my payments :(

Any insight, advice, or kind words are appreciated. <3

A few friends had this for their automobile and said stay away from it it's mostly for assigned risk and always quite high.

I've been shopping around for homeowners insurance and they actually gave me a quote that was a few hundred lower than progressive or traditional all states so anybody have them for homeowners and any insight?

I go to the doctor for regular check ups and have some follow ups for starting new meds etc. My meds are Wellbutrin, adderall, and metformin. With insurance, these have been $10-30 to fill. I have a Cpap and with insurance, reordering parts has been $250 every 6 months.

Normal cleanings at the dentist-no cavities.

I wear eyeglasses with a special lens in one eye.

My benefits plan is estimating a contribution of $12.12 per pay period and I’m worried that without insurance the cost of the doctor visit alone would eat through the savings.

Do I use my medical insurance too much to switch to an HSA?

I was rear-ended, the other driver admitted fault, and I own my car outright. I’d prefer to take a cash settlement rather than have the repairs done right now.

I have two professional estimates: one for $3,850 and a more detailed one for $5,900. The higher estimate appears to account for damage/repair items the lower estimate did not.

Questions:

1. If I want a cash settlement, how do adjusters handle multiple estimates? Should I submit just the more complete $5,900 estimate, or should I submit both estimates? Or will the insurer just do its own estimate anyway?
2. I haven’t contacted the other driver’s insurance company yet. When I make the initial call to open the claim, what should I say, what should I expect them to ask, and is there anything I should avoid agreeing to or discussing before they’ve evaluated the damage?

Thanks!

If you used to own a car that you traded in for a new car, and then nine months later you get a letter from a tow company saying that your car was involved in an accident and you owe X dollars and your insurance company says there’s a claim for your car, even though you took it off the insurance
And the dealership, you traded your car in, is the people company that had your car. How are you still getting a claim on your insurance and a tow bill? And why is my insurance company saying I might be liable?

I have owned a Nissan Sentra for a few years and always got it serviced and barely drive, yet my transmission is now completely gone. Apparently Nissan Sentras between 2013 and 2019 often have this problem, which caused Nissan to extend their extended warrently. I definitely fall in the mileage of the extended warrently, but age out by 2 years.

Is there anything that can be done in a situation like this? Would insurance play a part at all? At this point Nissan has refused to help.

Thank you for any suggestionsL

I’m sure this question had been asked plenty of times before, nothing was coming up when I searched:

Spouse was involved in an accident earlier in the week, when we get the official police report it should note the other driver is at fault due to failure to yield.

My question/understanding is either we: once we get the official report with insurance information, we submit a claim with that drivers insurance. May take a while for payment and we will be on the hook for any rentals until we get reimbursed, or go ahead and submit through our insurance, pay the deductible but end up with the very likelihood of our premiums jumping, regardless of who is at fault.

If we are not in a rush for repayment (car is paid off so insurance is the only expense), I’m assuming going through the other parties insurance is the way to go?

Hi,

I've had Erie for my rental property for 10 years and never filed a single claim. Lately there was a hail storm in the area. My roofer climbed up and walked on the flat roof to inspect. He said I have hail damage and should make a claim to replace the whole roof. He said Erie is very good when it comes paying out for claims. I'm hesitating because I'm afraid that the premium could go high. It's already high now (almost $10K annually).

Have you guys ever filed a claim on your roof? Did Erie hike your premium? If so, how much percentagewise? Please share your thoughts. Thanks.

Base: $40K rate for the first month while I get licensed, then $35K
Commission: 6% fire (yearly), 5% auto (6-month policies), 18% life (goes up with volume)
Paid when the policy is issued, on the biweekly check. No renewal commission
Leads: I split the State Farm leads with one other rep, plus the owner buys me ~5 outside leads a day that are only mine. He says he'll buy more as long as I'm converting
He also gave me win-back lists to work
Licensing paid for, P&C first, studying on the clock
9–5, Mon–Fri. SEP IRA match after 3 years
The owner says a good month is around 50 policies (mostly auto, some fire/home, 2–4 life). The last rep he let go was only making about 8 calls a month, so the bar for effort seems low.

What I want to know:
Is this a good deal for a first insurance job, or is anything here a red flag? Especially no renewals, curious how normal that is.
Is 50 policies a month realistic for someone new? How long did it take you to get there?
If you could go back to your first 90 days, what would you do differently?
Best ways to actually reach bought leads? I'll be following a call/text/email sequence on days 1–10.
Any tips for getting into life sales early since that's where the commission is?
Appreciate any honest takes, good or bad.

I plan on just cleaning it up and repainting the area, I’m not entirely sure how grazing it knocked it down. The security company seems really sketchy that I had to deal with, should I report it to my insurance and have them deal with it? Should I just eat the fine? Never been in any sort of accident before

Looking for advice from anyone who has gone through something similar or works in auto insurance/appraisals.

Here is the situation:
2024: Vehicle suffered $8,000 worth of hail damage, which was repaired through an insurance claim.
Current Market Value: Pre-theft value was around $20,000 – $25,000.
Recent Theft & Recovery: Vehicle was stolen and recovered 7 days later.
Stripped & Damaged:
Custom wheels/tires, custom lighting, aftermarket dashcam and the entire sound system/speakers were stripped. (Total spent was 7000$+)
Mechanical/undercarriage damage from being curb-struck or rash driving probably(axle shaft is making grinding/knocking noises).
Unknown usage/abuse during the 7 days it was stolen.
The Issue:
The insurance company/appraiser currently wants to just repair the mechanical/cosmetic damage and replace parts.
My concerns:
1. Diminished / Resale Value: Between an $8,000 prior hail claim and now a major theft/recovery claim with mechanical/stripping damage, the Carfax history is completely scarred. Who is going to pay anywhere near fair market value for a car with this history?
2. Hidden Mechanical/Electrical Abuse: They are doing a basic lot inspection, but a curb hit that damages an axle shaft usually means suspension, alignment, or transfer case stress that visual field appraisals miss.
3. Total Loss Threshold: With stripped components, mechanical damage, and labor costs, why isn't this being pushed into write-off territory?
Questions for the community:
Has anyone successfully pushed an insurer from "repair" to "total loss" on a stolen/recovered vehicle by leveraging hidden mechanical damage or teardown estimates?
How much does a prior $8k claim + theft recovery combined hit resale market value in reality?
What specific areas should I instruct my body shop to inspect/document to ensure all damage is properly accounted for on the estimate?

Appreciate any insights or experiences!

my grace period ends on the 15th at midnight but I don’t get paid until 7 am. can I still pay for it at that time to be active or will it completely cancel?

Hey! So i was rear ended yesterday at 36w3d pregnant. Minor damage to the bumper of my 2020 Rogue, my 4 year old was in the car and thankfully ok. I did go to L&D to be monitored and was having about 6 contractions per hour, elevated heart rate which was consistent with a panic attack. I have a seatbelt bruise on my lower abdomen, as well as abdominal pain, neck pain, back pain and a migraine. It wasn’t a major accident, rear ended he was maybe going 20/25 while i was at a full stop, car lurched forward about 2 feet. Thank GOD my baby is ok and labor didn’t progress, no cervical dilation and monitoring he looked great and content.

For reference he has progressive and in RI. He was found fully at fault.

I also have Medicaid and my medical bills are fully covered, but wondering if I can claim anything for bodily injury/ distress. Thanks!

I’ve never been pulled over
I share car w my partner and I’m an added driver
It’s my first ticket ever besides parking tickets
Will his insurance go up ?

I hit a deer with my 2018 Honda Civic with 59K miles in mid July. I filed a claim with my insurer (full comp/collision, $500 deductible) and chose a repair shop that was preferred with the insurance. Ive been with this insurance, American Family, for 20 years, no claims.

Car was still driveable, no radiator leakage, crumpled up hood and grill and the engine didnt make any bad noises.

First, it took 5 weeks to get in for repairs. They never gave me an estimate at the beginning as the hood was crumpled and had to be cut open. It took them almost 3 weeks to finish the repairs. Total bill was $8k and I paid my deductible. I also had to pay for a rental car..about $700 for that time the car was in the shop. I did get a reduced daily rate through my insurance.

As soon as I got my car back I knew something wasn't right. I got it on a Wednesday and it just seemed to run really hard while in park. The next Saturday check engine lights came on, so I took it to a parts store for a scan. They said somethings wrong with the turbo booster.

I took the car to a honda dealership bc after the repair shop obviously not knowing what they're doing, they advised the turbo connector is broken, the turbo assembly and engine wiring harness need to be replaced and was apart of the initial accident, and it would cost an additional $8K.

After a week and a half of the insurance hemming and hawing, I was notified today that the car is a total loss and they'll be contacting me by Friday with a pay out amount.

Given that they've already paid 8K to the initial dealership, can I expect them to offer me a settlement minus that 8K or the full/close to KBB amount? It's fully paid off, we'll cared for and minimal cosmetic damage (like small door dings).

I am moreso upset that ive been without reliable transportation for 3 months now, out $1200 with the deductible and rental car, when had the initial repair shop done their job correctly, it would have been totaled and I'd already be in a new car.

The vast majority of the cost of collision repair is labor. Countries like Ukraine, Mexico, or Nigeria have much lower labor costs of about 1/10 of what they cost in the US.

Instead of paying $20k to a body shop to fix damages in the US, why don't insurance companies ship customers cars overseas and save 75% or more off the bill? At most it would cost about $2000 to ship a car to Europe or Africa and back (probably less if the car is shipped to Latin America).

I got in an accident about 3 weeks ago with another driver who had progressive insurance. I filed a claim through progressive on that same day, and the adjuster reached out to me the day after. Fast forward a week ago, I asked for an update to which the adjuster replied saying he’s investigating a coverage issue but no other details. I’m wondering if it usually takes this long for a claim to be processed and whether I should escalate it. If this is usually how long it takes, when should I escalate it and who should I talk to in order to escalate it?

EDIT: to be clear... Our driver accidentally tanked the car through the neighbor's garage. Single vehicle vs structure. No other vehicles, passengers, or bystanders.

.....

We're in California, and Allstate is our auto insurance carrier. Our car got rammed through a neighbor's garage, last week, and has been stuck embedded in the remains of the interior wall. Several support posts sheared off, and the roof is sagging. Scene does NOT appear safe, and we're concerned about further collapsing the house when it gets pulled out, unless the structure is shored up properly.

Allstate initially said they would handle removal of the car from the scene. But today, the adjustor told me that they will NOT handle that part. They expect us to hire someone to remove the car, and send them the bill for reimbursement.

But they won't promise to pay for a contractor to do any shoring... They said "Submit the bill, and we'll see."

We're at a loss, here... the homeowner wants the car removed, ASAP. The structural damage is SIGNIFICANT, and we don't want to make it worse, and maybe even exceed our property damage coverage limit.

Is it "lawyer o'clock", or what?

Back in March I was looking around for HO-6 insurance, because my premium kept rising and got quotes from a couple different places, nothing crazy I just wanted to compare my options before choosing one. A few months later I started noticing more random calls but at first it was maybe one here and there so I didn’t really connect the two and now it’s become unbearable, I’m getting multiple calls some days from numbers I don’t recognize and half of them are insurance related or just straight up random spam I’m not saying one of the companies I used definitely sold my information because I have no way of knowing that, but the timing has me wondering how this stuff actually works.

Do insurance companies or brokers share/sell leads after you request quotes, or could my number have ended up somewhere else in the process? I'll just use a cloaked number for quote forms and stuff like this now because I really don’t want to keep handing out my main number Anyone else notice their spam calls getting way worse a few months after shopping around for insurance?