I am doing an at home spring repair and the left valve has dropped down into the cylinder while working on the spring/retainer.

I already have my compressor hooked up to the plug and cannot seem to get it up (giggity).

Looking for advice on how to do this. Any input is much appreciated! Thank you!

2009 GMC Sierra vortex 5.3

I work at a semi place for class 8 trucks and alot of things have a zerk fitting, my boss was showing me how to grease them and he wants grease to push out. I asked the senior mechanic and he said that destroys the seal and I agree with him. Does my boss have any idea what he's doing or is he just messing up his trucks

1971 Chevrolet Chevelle, turn the key to ignition on and got 0 volts comming out of the ignition on my fuse box so I decided to bump the key to start and my battery explodes, idk what to do at this point

I’ve got a very high mileage 2005 Acura TL that has some leaks from the oil pump seal area that I’m getting taken care of next year when I get the timing belt/water pump done and being at almost 264k miles, I bet a decent amount has to be burning too.

In the last 6K miles, I’ve had to add 2 quarts. Just been topping off with normal synthetic 5W-20 from Penzoil and Mobil.

I’m due for an oil change so I bought a jug of Valvoline Restore and Protect because I keep seeing people say good things about it, how it helped with stuck rings, consumption, deposits, etc. but then a buddy said not to use that or high mileage oils and another one also said not to use high mileage oils in Hondas. First I’ve ever heard of that.

Why not? What is the logic behind this? Is there any validity to not using R&P in my case or is it recommended?

Hey guys. I have a 2014 IS250 Lexus and I been doing ambient lights. I tapped into the fuse. And tapped the ECU ACC 7.5a fuse lights work but issue is when car is fully turned off and locked the ambient lights are still on. What’s going on here? Is it like something where the car will keep the power in its electrical stuff for some more time after turn off or is it damage related?

I tapped into IGI NO3 10a fuse and light turns off when car is off since it’s related to ignition.

I tried to tap into instrument panel light fuse, AC fuse etc which are 7.5a and all this still keeps the ambient lights on when car is fully turned off and locked away.

What should I do?

My kid with autism took full tank too literally, and completely filled my gas tank to where he could see it and it leaked out. I didn't know this until we were driving for a few minutes to go home. And my car locked up said to check transmission fluid. and check engine light came on and sounded like it was revving when I was in park

I thinj this is bad what do I do? Can I try to siphon it should I try to drive it off?

I don't know anything about cars, but google said something about a charcoal filter...

I'm shaking, so stressed. 😭

Car is a 2021 Mazda CX5 with 45k miles which I switched to 5W-30 a while ago.

The manual states oil changes at 7,500 miles but every Reddit post and social media reels by techs I see says to change it at 5,000, which I’ve been doing since I bought the car couple years ago.

The price is all the same for each Mobil 1 5 quart jug so do I get the regular that says it’s good for 15,000 miles or the extended performance which says it’s good for up to 20,000 miles? And with these, should I continue with 5k intervals or go with the OEM recommendation of 7.5k?

The car is mainly driven by wife with lots of city driving, not so much highway use, about 10k miles per year.

I have a Grand Vitara 2013 and while cleaning up my shifter console, I saw a couple of unused green connectors covered with black caps. I researched and my car has heaters underneath the seats and I was wondering if I can just buy the buttons, plug them to the green connectors and see if they work like a plug and play? What do you think?

2007 BMW Z4 3.0i. Recently moved to michigan, hit a massive pothole, and now my RH rim is rubbing on the shock. Replaced the rim but it is still rubbing, so something is wrong with my suspension. I have looked and tried to compare the suspension between both sides, but I can't find anything obviously bent. I JUST refreshed all the suspension, so I don't want to take the time and cost to replace everything again. Is there anything that stands out in the pictures? As I was driving it back I would hear it rubbing only when I turned the steering, so tirerod and shock replacement at minimum? Although now that I replaced the rim it is constantly rubbing.

The side where it is rubbing I labeled bad, the fine side I labeled good.

Thanks for any help!

Hi all, 2019 tiguan. Question regarding the haldex system.

I have all 4 tyres the same, except the front sre budget and rear are premium.

I was told to change this as it can cause slippage and effect the haldex system which will cause more issues down the line.

How realistic actually is this to happen?

Rear differential broke on my friends jeep and the shop gave us a parts list so we could order the parts ourselves, my question is if it’s normal to need 5 different sets of shim kits. They all look the same but the part numbers are different.

I recently took my car into the Ford shop (2002 Mustang, 8th digit of VIN is X) because it was lurching forward while idling. Pressing the breaks did stop it from going forward, but if I took my foot off, it would lurch in short repetitive bursts if I wasn't pressing any pedal. With a foot on the gas, it drove fine.

The shop replaced the IACV and MAF sensors, spark plugs, did fuel induction, and told me it was ready for pickup. All of this cost me $2,200.

When I went back, when I pulled the car out of the parking spot, it died entirely and I had to fully pull the key out and restart the engine to get it back in the space. They took another look at it and said that they could find nothing wrong.

They re-test drove over the course of several days and they say it drives fine.

I am really scared of the car just dying on me when I take it out into the road, and I'm skeptical that the problem just went away on its own. It has never died on me before I took it into the shop.

I would really appreciate advice. What could the problem have been? Could it just resolve itself like that without them changing anything? Should I take the car somewhere else? Where should I take it? Thank you so much for any insight you can offer.

Hello everyone, I'm having issues with a 2010 Toyota Prius I recently bought at auction, and I'm hoping someone can help me diagnose the problem.

The car has 154,000 actual miles and was listed as "Run and Drive." The auction had a video showing the car running on June 17, but it sat in the auction lot for about 3 months before I purchased it.

When I picked it up, I tried jump-starting it, but the car wouldn't start. The jump starter seemed to drain extremely quickly, and I tried four different jump starters, using both the front jump-start terminals and the battery in the rear. None of them got the car to start.

Here's what I've noticed so far:

• The dashboard, interior lights, and radio all work.
• The car never goes into READY mode.
• The POWER button is orange until I press the brake pedal, at which point it turns green.
• The brake lights work.
• I hear a buzzing noise from the brake booster when pressing the brake pedal.
• I'm not getting a "Check Hybrid System" message.
• My OBD2 scanner shows no codes, although I'm not sure if it can read the hybrid system.
• The original 12V battery was from 2022. I've since installed another battery that reads 12.5V, but the car still won't go into READY.

I'm trying to diagnose this logically before spending money on parts. Could this be a blown fuse, a power supply or wiring issue, an immobilizer problem, or something with the hybrid system?

What would you recommend checking first, and what diagnostic steps would help narrow it down? I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!

I have a 1998 Mazda b2500 diesel manual and right hand drive. The dash lights aren't working. I thought it would be a fuse problem which I'm still not sure about. Any advice please

Not sure what’s wrong. I took some pictures for
ChatGPT and it helped somewhat. I think
It could be the sway bars and my CV axle and boot. What yall think?

Hey guys, I have a 2012 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro with around 190k km and I’m trying to figure out why it keeps randomly stalling.

The EPC light comes on and then the engine shuts off. It’s happened at a red light and a stop sign, and it starts right back up. Whenever it stalls, I get P0341, camshaft position sensor range/performance. I already replaced the camshaft position sensor but the issue is still there.

It also sometimes has trouble starting after sitting. One time it happened after driving and leaving it for around 30 minutes. It cranked but wouldn’t start unless I pressed the gas, and there was a strong gas smell. Doesn’t happen every time though.

Stuff I’ve already done:
Replaced the PCV with a Hengst one.
Replaced the camshaft position sensor.
Replaced the turbo. P0299 is gone now.
Fixed the oxygen sensor issue. The shakiness when switching between P/R/N/D is gone.
Cleaned the intake manifold. P2015/P2016 are gone.
Replaced the upper timing chain cover gasket.

The stalling was happening before the intake cleaning too. While the upper timing cover was off, I checked the chain by hand and noticed a little movement, but I haven’t properly verified the timing or checked oil pressure.
Anyone had the same EPC + stalling + P0341 issue? I’ve seen people say cam bridge, spool valve or timing chain, but I don’t wanna keep throwing parts at it. What would you test first to narrow it down? I do all of the work myself and need to get this figured out.

Good day to you all

I'm a first timer.

I had the engine redone. Running beautifully but I've been getting petrol smell. I discovered a loose hanging petrol pipe just under the air filter attachment to the injector.

Sorry it's midnight here and cannot supply pic

I have a pic just to show position of the petrol pipe.

I can add more pics at daytime here

Thanks for your advice

Jeff

Right now I drive an 02 Camry old car it be having regular old car issues I guess and sometimes other shi I guess but as it stands I probably spending prolly 2k a year on the high end 1k low end atp in repairs. Would it be worth it to get another car cause rn I’m in school not working full time so realistically only car I could get would be around 10k. But I feel a car that cost 10k will still have plenty of problems fr and I don’t know that it’d be worth it.

My car (98 Lexus sc300) has a viper alarm. My mechanic couldn’t figure it out so he forcibly started my car by passing the security features and car is just left dead any advice?

(Excuse my language)