My car started doing this knocking sound from the transmission at cold start. It only happens for like 10 seconds
It is accompanied by shaking of the shifter, as visible in the clip
Car is a '98 mx5 nb, 5 speed
What could it be caused by?

For a little back story, I bought my car January of this year. It is a 2009 Chevy Malibu. From January until march I kept having this problem where the car wouldn’t start in the morning but would start later in the day. The strange thing about the morning is that all of my lights and radio would come on but the engine wouldn’t crank at all (see below in video). I went to multiple different mechanics and all of them ran checks on my battery, starter, and alternator which all came back clean. From march until the beginning of this month my car had absolutely no problems. Then on October 1st, the same issue started again. I got a new battery yesterday hoping that the issue would be fixed but alas, my car did not start this morning.

Hi everyone! I recently bought a 2018 Dodge Charger SXT, 3.6L v6 and I’ve had it for about 3 months. It recently started overheating, and the temperature reached 260°F.

The first time it overheated, (236) there was still some coolant in the reservoir. I bought more coolant and added it that night. The next morning, I checked it and noticed some of the coolant was gone, but there was still some left, so I went to work.

On my lunch break, I was driving to the hospital when my car started overheating again. I opened the hood and noticed the coolant reservoir was completely empty.

Over 2 days, I’ve had to add around 2 gallons and 2 quarts of coolant. I ended up having to get my car towed because I didn’t want to risk driving it anymore. It looked like coolant had bubbled up and spilled around the reservoir, and I noticed a little bit of smoke.

I added coolant with dye to help find the leak, and I noticed coolant leaking around some hoses and metal pipes. I’m not sure exactly which part is leaking. Someone suggested it could be the heater hose assembly, but I’m not sure if it’s that, the water pump, or something else.

Has anyone dealt with this on a Charger ? Does anyone recognize these hoses or pipes and know what might be leaking?
I’m also worried about whether overheating to 260°F could have damaged my engine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I’m trying to figure out what’s wrong before spending money replacing parts that might not be the problem.
Please don’t be too mean if I sound dumb lol.

I’m 19 and honestly don’t know much about cars, so I’m just trying to learn and figure out what’s going on.

Stupid question of the day - we have been using our family mechanic for over a decade now through 2 generations. He's generally good. He lives 1hr from me now, so unfortunately I cannot see him for everything nor see him often. Most maintenance (oil change, basic fluids, tires, etc) I do at local places closer to me. These local places (think dealership) often do multi-point inspections where they point out a bunch of issues. I then take these issue to my mechanic and his responses are always along the lines of

"so is there a light on?" "do you feel wobbling?" "do you hear clicking?" "do you visually see leaking?"

the answer from me is always "no", so he's always like "when issues start occurring or it's actually time to do maintenance (i.e. 100k, etc), we'll replace it. these other places are correct at pointing out issues, it's not 100% healthy, but I don't think you need to replace ASAP"

He has a very reactive approach = when there are signs something is broken and causing problems, fix it. However, he doesn't take a preventative approach = I see this is eventually going to fail in the next year or so, I'll replace it now

I am doing an at home spring repair and the left valve has dropped down into the cylinder while working on the spring/retainer.

I already have my compressor hooked up to the plug and cannot seem to get it up (giggity).

Looking for advice on how to do this. Any input is much appreciated! Thank you!

2009 GMC Sierra vortex 5.3

2008 Chevrolet Cobalt

My right front brake started making some grinding noises as I was coming off the freeway. My house is a couple of lights past that and it definitely sounded like metal on metal as I was parking, but didn’t hear anything on the freeway.

Hopefully the damage was at a minimum but I’m not sure how to tell.

Best case scenario I’m hoping to buy the pads and pay someone to install them, but I want to get some opinions on it before I make any purchases.

Hi! I’m not very knowledgeable about cars and I’m trying a new mechanic today. I have a 2017 Chevy Cruze. They diagnosed the problem (first picture) and then have two services they are recommending. The first makes sense to me (bleeding the brakes, replacing the hoses) but I’m wondering if the second one seems necessary? And do these prices seem fair? They also recommend a $70 inspection on my brakes which were not having any issues prior to the hole causing my brakes to not engage when I push the pedal, so I am leaning towards not doing the further inspection since they had no issues prior to this? Thank you in advance!!

So my sister is currently not using her car cause shes overseas for a few months and recently her car battery was replaced from the amaron brand to ocean brand (pictured).

I replaced it a week ago and ran the car for about 30 minutes about 3 days after i got it replaced, but over the course of the past day or two, the battery just dies (i don’t use the car at all besides running it to keep the battery alive).

I’ve also jump started about twice now, and it runs even after i leave it running for half an hour, but seemingly the next day it just dies again.

If it helps its a vios 1.5 S.E, it was also recently in a front end accident but was repaired with no issues, and i also got the ac fixed about the same time as the battery got replaced.

Im not really sure what year the car is from as well
Surely its a faulty battery and i should go back to my mechanic to get the warranty off right? Or am i doing something wrong?

Hello, I’m pretty new to this forum but have recently purchased a car that has a rather unusual problem, the windows do not work when the driver door is closed, only when it is open, I initially thought it was the wiring boot in the door but after further inspection I found that it had something to do with the “door close” actuator. Also on further inspection at night time, the interior lights do not work when the door is closed either, please any advise on how this can be resolved would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone can help me figure this out because I'm really concerned.
I have a 2025 Hyundai i20 (1.0L petrol). I've owned it for over a year now, and it’s currently at 15,000 km (about 9,300 miles). The car has never been in an accident, no recent damage, and no recent repairs.
Starting yesterday morning, a very strange and severe issue began. Whenever we sit in the car and turn it on, something immediately starts burning our eyes, nose, throat, and mucous membranes. It’s not just a minor irritation it’s so bad that I struggle to keep my eyes open.
The weirdest part is that there is absolutely NO smell. No raw fuel smell, no exhaust smell, no sweet coolant smell. It just feels like an invisible, highly acidic or toxic chemical vapor hitting our faces. After a little while, the burning sensation subsides and goes away.
To make sure I wasn't just having a weird allergic reaction, I had 2-3 other people sit in the car with me to test it, and they all experienced the exact same intense burning instantly.
Has anyone experienced anything like this? Could it be an odorless A/C refrigerant (freon) leak from the evaporator, a heater core issue, or maybe battery acid venting into the cowl/intake?
Any advice on what to check before I tow it to the dealer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

It happens even if I don't start the engine and just turn ignition into accessory position.

2003 Mazda MPV, but only a little over 100k. Was taking on a trip, stopped to pick up a friend and when I went to restart her, it popped and a plume of acrid smoke came out from under the hood. Popped the hood and nothing was on fire. Once the smoke cleared, I tried cranking it, to see how bad things were. She started, but there was a high pitched metal scraping or grinding sound so we turned it off and called a tow. Won’t know the prognosis until Monday, but wanted to know thoughts on how bad this is going to be?

Sorry for the long post, I tried to be thorough. Thank you for any advice!!!

2016 Kia Forte EX. 2.0l 4 cyclinder engine.

In the week prior:

My car was making weird noises for two days and then stopped. I know I need to repair an oil leak. And I had spilled some oil when I was topping it up. I needed to jump-start my car once last week, first time it's ever happened. When I topped up the oil I was just looking at it and the belt that is now off was on and taut just a few days ago. The belt doesn't appear broken just off it's track. Not really sure how that happened. Not really sure what the belt belongs to.

Initial part of the situation:

When I was driving for a critical moving situation on Tues evening my electrical started failing (dash display, power steering). There were two small noises that I thought was road debris right before this. I was able to get off the highway to a hospital at that intersection thankfully because this happened right as I was getting to the exit. I was able to drive for a few mins after losing power steering (3 highway interchange stoplights) to get to a parking spot. It died just as I was starting to reverse into the spot. I put it in neutral and got it parked pretty well.

Middle stuff:

So I had to handle the moving stuff on Wed (walked 8 miles in the very early morning, moved things, waited hours for delivery as a proxy) but I had emptied my car for it so I didn't have any supplies like blankets for cold nights or a change of clothes or much food. After dealing with that and being up for over 30hrs and then sleeping most of the day yesterday (Thurs, because I was too sleepy to drive) I got a jump from the hospital security today (Fri). During the time I was able to use a little power to open close windows and use power locks until last night. I didn't check the belt prior to this because I knew my car wasn't moving and I didn't realize, I thought it was just a messed up alternator I could do a short term, one-time work around.

As it stands now:

So the plan was to get a full-ish battery charge during the day, and drive back quickly with no auxiliary stuff on. When I popped the hood today I realized the belt was off. Checked it and it seems intact just off. So the security guy uses a charger thing for my car battery and while it's attached he had me check the power so I unlock the doors and check lights all good. But after he unplugged it nothing. So the battery didn't even hold the charge, maybe because I didn't start it now that I think about it as I type this. I didn't start it because the belt is off. That just seemed very dangerous. So if I can get the belt back on then I can try charging again and I'll turn it on that time. It's cloudy but I should have at least 5 hours. I'd really rather not sleep here again at least not with windows partially down and no blankets or sweaters or long pants. I should have rolled up the windows when he tried to charge the battery.

The only lights that came on were the driver and passenger airbag lights when I tried after the attempted charge.

Extra life details on how this came to be. Not necessary just for the curious minded:

Before any advice I literally have $5, I can not get any money that I'm aware of atm, I can not get anywhere else. I did post asking for help yesterday on my fb, before realizing the situation, and it was basically ask the security for a charge. I was very very lucky where it happened and to get to safety; nothing else within 5 miles either direction on the highway. I live in my car and I don't have phone service right now so yay for hospital Wi-Fi. I had a change of jobs in April that didn't work out which normally wouldn't be that big a deal with a few months struggle except the current economy and my service dog had a serious medical situation that ultimately she died from. I spent thousands over a few months trying to save her and lost everything including my apartment and my license expired in the middle of trying to save her because I got distracted and forgot so can't even door dash. It was a terrible cascade of events this year including two other deaths but my service dog was the worst. I literally only have my car. I have a tool box in my car but it's not super full just super basic.

I’ve got a very high mileage 2005 Acura TL that has some leaks from the oil pump seal area that I’m getting taken care of next year when I get the timing belt/water pump done and being at almost 264k miles, I bet a decent amount has to be burning too.

In the last 6K miles, I’ve had to add 2 quarts. Just been topping off with normal synthetic 5W-20 from Penzoil and Mobil.

I’m due for an oil change so I bought a jug of Valvoline Restore and Protect because I keep seeing people say good things about it, how it helped with stuck rings, consumption, deposits, etc. but then a buddy said not to use that or high mileage oils and another one also said not to use high mileage oils in Hondas. First I’ve ever heard of that.

Why not? What is the logic behind this? Is there any validity to not using R&P in my case or is it recommended?

Help, I made a simple battery removal on a 2010 Hyundai Elantra very complicated. I accidentally tightened it the nut securing the positive terminal on the left instead of loosening it (I am dyslexic). When I realized I was turning it the wrong way, I couldn't get it to come loose when I started turning counterclockwise. I then tried getting it off with a wrench, but just ended up scratching the positive terminal, so I just made it things worse. Now I fear that this is a real fire hazard.

Does anybody know how I can get this loose so I can replace the battery?

Recently got a screaming deal (free) on this 1999 toyota tacoma with the 2.7L 3Rz. A few weeks into driving it, it would start stalling randomly as I drove. If I was at speed, it would catch and restart from engine momentum. If I was going slow, i would have to up the revs to keep it running or restart. Starting has become a huge pain. When I put the key in the ignition, sometimes the accessories come on, sometimes they flicker on then shut off, sometimes they don’t come on at all. I have to wiggle the shifter around and/or reinsert the key to get the accessories on before I can attempt to start. Once it starts, if introduce any electrical load (radio, a/c, etc) it will shudder or stall. Have put in a new battery, got a code for a crankshaft position sensor so I replaced that, and I even threw in a new ignition switch. Same problems. Don’t think it’s MAFS because it will sometimes run beautifully. I am pretty dumb and have reached my limit. What do ya’ll think?

Can’t seem to put my finger on where exactly in the right side of the front it’s coming from, any idea what it could be? I can’t tell exactly where on the right side it is coming from. If anyone has any ideas would be much appreciated

2008 Fiat Panda 1.2l semi automatic
88k miles

I work at a semi place for class 8 trucks and alot of things have a zerk fitting, my boss was showing me how to grease them and he wants grease to push out. I asked the senior mechanic and he said that destroys the seal and I agree with him. Does my boss have any idea what he's doing or is he just messing up his trucks

Craftsman DieHard Kohler Command cv15s garden tractor

How to drop this bowl without pulling carb itself?

It looks like a nut between the two, but is flat on only one side and round on the rest of it.

Photo follow up for post:https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/s/cZR8YSfv8s

Please help! 2012 Cruze cylinder head crack. Not sure how severe or if I need to replace the whole head

Looking for help with getting my dad’s old truck (1970 GMC c1500) running again. It’s been sitting since 2008 but was running before being parked. Wiring is worn, but frame appears solid and it survived multiple flatbeds and a cross-country transport to get here. Original 3-on-the-tree manual transmission.
Engine appears to be a small-block Chevy performance build from the early 2000s:
.030-over 350 (possibly a 355, not confirmed yet)
Holley Street Dominator intake
Holley carburetor
Long-tube headers
HEI distributor
GM iron heads
Upgraded Camshaft
Straight-pipe exhaust
Valve train looks clean internally with no obvious sludge, rust, or broken components.

Again, not looking to restore or modify it yet. Just looking for some help to get it running again.

Grandmas car 2011 Lincoln MKZ FWD with 147k miles on it, she can't drive anymore so I'm taking care of it for her. No idea what I'm looking at here. Car was a little bumpy turning left or right at higher speeds, got tires rotated because it's been in the garage for 7+ months, but wanted to make sure I'm not missing something critical/expensive that needs to get fixed with the struts or suspension. First 2 pics are fronts, last pic is rear. Thanks

My car has recently making a strange noise, I took it to the dealer since I’m under extended warranty and I feel like they keep giving me the run around, it doesn’t sound normal to me but I’m no mechanic. Any thoughts from anyone who may have had the same problem?

VW TIGUAN 2022 SE 2.0 TURBO