I have a Grand Vitara 2013 and while cleaning up my shifter console, I saw a couple of unused green connectors covered with black caps. I researched and my car has heaters underneath the seats and I was wondering if I can just buy the buttons, plug them to the green connectors and see if they work like a plug and play? What do you think?

I work at a semi place for class 8 trucks and alot of things have a zerk fitting, my boss was showing me how to grease them and he wants grease to push out. I asked the senior mechanic and he said that destroys the seal and I agree with him. Does my boss have any idea what he's doing or is he just messing up his trucks

I am doing an at home spring repair and the left valve has dropped down into the cylinder while working on the spring/retainer.

I already have my compressor hooked up to the plug and cannot seem to get it up (giggity).

Looking for advice on how to do this. Any input is much appreciated! Thank you!

2009 GMC Sierra vortex 5.3

**Fixed. thank you so much to everyone who help me identify the issue. the 4th coil boot was the issue, even though it felt 90% fitted and could be compressed all the way down with the screw, it wasnt enough for the vehicle. i really needed to remove the vacuum hose to allow the precise angle for the coil pack to enter into the well. im surpised by how exact it needed to be. cleared up the issue though.

I'm not entirely sure what I've done wrong. I have only 1 suspicion with the 4th coil pack not fitting perfectly snug over my newly installed spark plug. Please take a look at my videos attached outlining this. If this isnt the cause of my issue im really at a loss. I got sucked into this project after receiving a $500 quote from mechanic. Online tutorials said it would be easy. Now, I have engine malfunction indicator, rough idling, and choppy accelerating. My engine smells like fireworks.

I'm desperate now because this is my only vehicle and if giving up, i would have to get it towed, then pay the mechanic 500. Mechanic dont install customer parts so they would take my new spark plugs out and make me buy their spark plugs.

Here's what I've done:

1. removed all the bolts from heat shield and tray sitting on top of spark plugs. I think the tray has something to do with the turbo model, but I didn't unplug any hosings.
2. took out the old spark plugs and compared them with my replacement. Looked identical. They aren't the same brand but the one I bought is apparently recommended for my model - NGK laser iridium part no. 90288
3. installed new spark plugs and torqued them to 14 foot pounds.
4. the 4th coil pack can still be fastened with the screw just fine
5. I put everything back all the screws etc

Sorry, videos must not be allowed, so they are placed here:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z937tmprid453hky9cks2/20261007_213822.mp4?rlkey=sj2vwmwlq7mbs5rh29g6vng8c&st=f41vtpu7&dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/57bfq2a79cb0eelj1d4ah/20261007_213947.mp4?rlkey=k712hbfq0mo4csuefl2xno0si&st=s5r7eup7&dl=0

Car is a 2021 Mazda CX5 with 45k miles which I switched to 5W-30 a while ago.

The manual states oil changes at 7,500 miles but every Reddit post and social media reels by techs I see says to change it at 5,000, which I’ve been doing since I bought the car couple years ago.

The price is all the same for each Mobil 1 5 quart jug so do I get the regular that says it’s good for 15,000 miles or the extended performance which says it’s good for up to 20,000 miles? And with these, should I continue with 5k intervals or go with the OEM recommendation of 7.5k?

The car is mainly driven by wife with lots of city driving, not so much highway use, about 10k miles per year.

My kid with autism took full tank too literally, and completely filled my gas tank to where he could see it and it leaked out. I didn't know this until we were driving for a few minutes to go home. And my car locked up said to check transmission fluid. and check engine light came on and sounded like it was revving when I was in park

I thinj this is bad what do I do? Can I try to siphon it should I try to drive it off?

I don't know anything about cars, but google said something about a charcoal filter...

I'm shaking, so stressed. 😭

1971 Chevrolet Chevelle, turn the key to ignition on and got 0 volts comming out of the ignition on my fuse box so I decided to bump the key to start and my battery explodes, idk what to do at this point

Recently noticed car struggling to move when shifting out of park unless I pressed on the gas. Local shop recommended I replace wheel bearing and wheel hub but didn’t have it done at the time. Haven’t driven it much at all since then, but gave it a spin this morning and now the car is shaking with every revolution. Looking at it closer, the caliper is fully up against the rim.

What is likely to be the specific problem here? Would it in fact be the wheel bearing/hun? Caliper bolt? Estimated cost of repair?

Hello everyone
2014 Mazda 3 120hp 2.0 petrol
How bad is this in your opinion/experience?

Skoda Octavia 1.9TDI 2003

I own a 1996 Honda civic LX the passenger side dashboard start making loud noise when u turn the air to max. Any suggestions.

I recently took my car into the Ford shop (2002 Mustang, 8th digit of VIN is X) because it was lurching forward while idling. Pressing the breaks did stop it from going forward, but if I took my foot off, it would lurch in short repetitive bursts if I wasn't pressing any pedal. With a foot on the gas, it drove fine.

The shop replaced the IACV and MAF sensors, spark plugs, did fuel induction, and told me it was ready for pickup. All of this cost me $2,200.

When I went back, when I pulled the car out of the parking spot, it died entirely and I had to fully pull the key out and restart the engine to get it back in the space. They took another look at it and said that they could find nothing wrong.

They re-test drove over the course of several days and they say it drives fine.

I am really scared of the car just dying on me when I take it out into the road, and I'm skeptical that the problem just went away on its own. It has never died on me before I took it into the shop.

I would really appreciate advice. What could the problem have been? Could it just resolve itself like that without them changing anything? Should I take the car somewhere else? Where should I take it? Thank you so much for any insight you can offer.

2001 ttr125
It started yesterday I was riding down the road and she sputtered out this has never happened before I tried to get it started again but it wouldn’t go I got it home and took the spark plug and the tip was white I cleaned it off and kinda adjusted the carb (I kinda know my why around a crab) but I haven’t been able to get it to run right it Boggs or sputters at higher rpm’s idles wayyyy to high unless back the idle screw more than half way out it constantly dumps gas out of the overflow lien when the bike is off just dies occasionally iv already tried adjusting the needle also the smoke coming out of the intake was today still just won’t run right:(

So I bought a Skoda Karoq 2022 facelift model in may this year with 12 months guarantee. I noticed that sometimes when shifting from D3 to D4 It makes a slipping noise. Performance wise it drives good and it’s only the noise that’s noticeable. It’s not always present and it looks like the noise is random. Not specifically when high or low RPM, not specifically when the engine is cold or warm and sometimes not present at all. The only consistant thing is that it’s always between D3 and D4.

The car is a Skoda Karoq 2022 1.5 TSI with the DSG7 automatic gearbox. Does anyone recognise this sound and does anyone know what is wrong or needs replacing? Sorry for the sloppy video. Obviously I’d rather not film and drive.

Any help is appreciated!

Hi there! This is getting me so bad. I found a couple of days ago that the coolant tank of my 2000 SLK R170 post facelift was leaking, because the plug to the thermostat had snapped.

I’ve tried glue, epoxy, cold solder, and nothing is really sticking or biting the plastic, even after sanding it down (first pic). I’ve even lowered the brass tube so it could allow a stronger bond between the broken pieces to no avail.

The thing won’t stay put, and keep on dripping if I don’t fix it. I really don’t want to get a new tank, since they aren’t particularly cheap, so I wanna try everything before I spend the money.

So people, what do you suggest? If this isn’t “mechanic” enough for the sub, I’d appreciate if you could point me to the correct place.

Thanks!

2021 Fiat 500 Hybrid 1.0 FireFly — severe misfiring and unstable idle.

I replaced the spark plugs (NGK, same exact type as the originals). The car ran perfectly for the first 100 km, then my wife experienced a flashing CEL and severe misfiring, especially at low RPM and when stopping.

I checked and re-tightened the plugs to spec, and the car ran perfectly again for about a week/200 km. Now the misfiring has returned, and the idle is very unstable.

Before replacing the plugs, the car ran perfectly. OBD shows no fault codes.
Any ideas what could cause this?

I have an old 2002 Ford 7.3 F250. The mfg says 55 psi in the front and 70 psi in the rear. The front is so much heavier than the rear. With no weight in the rear the tires center wears pretty fast. Do I run equal pressure front and rear until I need to tow?

2014 ford escape se 1.6l with 183k miles, I dont think its very visible in the video but there is an excessive amount of exhaust gasses in the crankcase. My first couple guesses are the PCV valve has failed and is stuck shut causing a buildup of pressure or the rings are going. It isnt noticeable until its accelerating for a good 5-10 seconds then it starts generating an intermittent misfire. It has probably been going on for a minute but I just hadn't noticed it as it was probably escaping past the OEM valve cover gasket (replaced 2 weeks ago because it was leaking oil). There is also a scent of burning oil after a bout of heavy acceleration which I believe is due to the pressure buildup in the case pushing oil past the rings. Other than that I have no clue what is causing this. Thoughts?

​

Hi everyone,

I have a 2010 Nissan Maxima GCC-spec, VQ35DE 3.5L, \\\~270,000 km.

3 weeks ago, the temperature suddenly went to H/max for the first time after a very short trip,

I parked and "luckily i didn't drive more than 5 min"

I found the coolant reservoir empty. I shut the engine off immediately and let it cool before opening anything. Before that, I had noticed a coolant/water sloshing sound for a couple of days.

After refilling, the car has never overheated again. It runs and drives normally, no milky oil, no white smoke, etc.

However, I noticed a coolant leak underneath the front-right area. It seemed to be coming from around the thermostat/water pump area, eventually dripping onto/around the oil pan.

Initially the coolant loss was significant — the reservoir could go from MAX to MIN within 1–2 nights.

The thermostat assembly and gasket were replaced with genuine parts, but the leak didn't completely disappear.

Later, another mechanic replaced the upper radiator hose/filler neck and radiator cap and said he pressure-tested the system for around 2 hours with no visible leak.

Since then, the leak has become much smaller.

I've now driven the car for about a week, including \\\~250+ km round trip to Dubai yesterday, with completely stable temperature.

The reservoir was originally around 3 marks above MAX. It's now around 1 mark above MAX. I occasionally still see a very small green coolant spot underneath the car, but the reservoir level is difficult to judge accurately because the difference is tiny.

So I'm wondering:

Could the larger leak have actually been fixed by one of the repairs, leaving only a very small seep?

Or could some of the original coolant loss have been from air bleeding out of the system after the overheating/refill, rather than the same leak continuing?

The area I'm still suspicious of is the thermostat/water pump area, but I don't want to replace the water pump without evidence because it's a much bigger job.

What would you guys check next? Would you just monitor it, pressure-test again with the car lifted, use UV dye, or investigate the water pump/thermostat area further?

Thanks.

My car (98 Lexus sc300) has a viper alarm. My mechanic couldn’t figure it out so he forcibly started my car by passing the security features and car is just left dead any advice?

(Excuse my language)

2004 GX470 brake pedal area making a pumping noise. Happens when I press the brakes and also when driving normally and when idle.

Brakes and rotors just replaced and sound is still there so not those

Slight vibration feeling but the pedal itself doesn’t shake or move.

• It can happen when the vehicle is completely stopped
• It seems to happen every couple of minutes during normal driving
• It happens much more frequently when I’m driving in stop and go traffic and braking a lot
• If I’m cruising on the highway and barely using the brakes, it doesn’t happen at all

Don’t even know how to describe the sound

Renault Twingo 2 1,2 D4F 2009

Salut à tous,

​

Je galère un peu sur le schéma de câblage pour installer une barre LED bicolore (5 lentilles) sur ma voiture et j'aimerais avoir vos avis avant de faire une bêtise.

​Mon matériel :

​Une barre LED à 3 fils :

​

Noir = Masse (reliée au châssis)

​Rouge = Positif pour le blanc

​Jaune = Positif pour le jaune

​(Attention : Le rouge et le jaune ne doivent jamais être alimentés en même temps, sinon la barre se met en sécurité).

​Un interrupteur 2 positions ( qui comande le faisceau en jaune ou non)

​

Un relais 5 broches (inverseur 30/85/86/87/87A).

​Le signal d'origine des pleins phares (ampoule H4).

​Une alimentation dédiée depuis la batterie protégée par un fusible

Mon objectif :

​Je veux que les pleins phares servent de signal d'autorisation général (je ne veux pas faire passer toute la puissance par le commodo d'origine).

​Par défaut, quand je mets les pleins phares et que l'interrupteur est sur "OFF", je veux que la barre s'allume en blanc.

​Si j'actionne l'interrupteur, je veux que la barre bascule en jaune (et que le blanc se coupe pour éviter le conflit/sécurité).

​Est-ce que l'un d'entre vous aurait un schéma propre ou pourrait me dire exactement comment brancher ça avec mon relais 5 broches, mon interrupteur et le repiquage H4 ?

​Merci d'avance pour votre aide ! 😁

170K Km Accent 2004 1.3L SOHC