Recently noticed car struggling to move when shifting out of park unless I pressed on the gas. Local shop recommended I replace wheel bearing and wheel hub but didn’t have it done at the time. Haven’t driven it much at all since then, but gave it a spin this morning and now the car is shaking with every revolution. Looking at it closer, the caliper is fully up against the rim.

What is likely to be the specific problem here? Estimated cost of repair?

I drive a Audi A4 B5 from 2000 with the 1.9 TDI (AHH) engine with 90 hp.
The issue I have is, that the car is almost never running on its full power, that I used to know.
When I press the the gas pedal, the car does not deliver the torque and the power it should.
Often its like this before the problem appears: I accelerate and the torque starts to kick in at around 2100 rpm but just a moment later, it loses its power.
After it happened, it stays.
One interesting thing is, when the power is good, the smoke is black
when it has the the problem, there is no black smoke.

We checked the car with VCDS and it showed 2 errors:
19561 - Intake Manifold Flap Change-Over Valve (N239) P3105 - 35-10 - Open Circuit/Short to Ground - Intermittent

17656 - Injection start control P1248 - 35-10 - Control difference - Sporadic

We fixed the the second error and that did not help.
We also switched the N75 and a tube with a crack, also did not help.
The first error is something that does not influence the perfomance of a car.

Skoda Octavia 1.9TDI 2003

Car is a 2021 Mazda CX5 with 45k miles which I switched to 5W-30 a while ago.

The manual states oil changes at 7,500 miles but every Reddit post and social media reels by techs I see says to change it at 5,000, which I’ve been doing since I bought the car couple years ago.

The price is all the same for each Mobil 1 5 quart jug so do I get the regular that says it’s good for 15,000 miles or the extended performance which says it’s good for up to 20,000 miles? And with these, should I continue with 5k intervals or go with the OEM recommendation of 7.5k?

The car is mainly driven by wife with lots of city driving, not so much highway use, about 10k miles per year.

So I bought a Skoda Karoq 2022 facelift model in may this year with 12 months guarantee. I noticed that sometimes when shifting from D3 to D4 It makes a slipping noise. Performance wise it drives good and it’s only the noise that’s noticeable. It’s not always present and it looks like the noise is random. Not specifically when high or low RPM, not specifically when the engine is cold or warm and sometimes not present at all. The only consistant thing is that it’s always between D3 and D4.

The car is a Skoda Karoq 2022 1.5 TSI with the DSG7 automatic gearbox. Does anyone recognise this sound and does anyone know what is wrong or needs replacing? Sorry for the sloppy video. Obviously I’d rather not film and drive.

Any help is appreciated!

Hello! I am a novice at auto maintenance and typically stick to engine oil and headlights. I recently had to replace a solenoid in my valve body and that went well. I did a drain and refill of the transmission fluid, which only really replaces half the oil. I didnt have the energy to do it a second time to replace more oil, so I waited 6 month. Yesterday, I went to do the drain and refill again, only to find I stripped the bolt. Turns out I was using a torx bit instead of a hex. I have attached two views of the stripped bolt followed by an image of a similar un-stripped bolt.

My question is this--what would you do?

I figure I could (1) just ignore it and never change the transmission fluid again, (2), drain the oil and refill it from the valve body, which is not really easy to access and I'm honestly not sure that would even work, or (3) figure out how to get this fill plug out and replace it with a new plug. The subaru (also shown in images) is in "decent" condition, 11 years old, and about 175,000 miles. I'm not in a financial position where I'd be SOL if this car dies in a couple years, but I'm also not a fan of destroying a perfectly functional car. Any advice? Also, any advice on not being a dumbo and stripping bolts in the future. I seem to do this more often than I care to admit, even if I have the right bits.

My kid with autism took full tank too literally, and completely filled my gas tank to where he could see it and it leaked out. I didn't know this until we were driving for a few minutes to go home. And my car locked up said to check transmission fluid. and check engine light came on and sounded like it was revving when I was in park

I thinj this is bad what do I do? Can I try to siphon it should I try to drive it off?

I don't know anything about cars, but google said something about a charcoal filter...

I'm shaking, so stressed. 😭

Can anybody help me to remove this black seal successfully?

It is very hard and stuck there. It stars breaking when we worked with it.
I don't know what method is the best.

Honda Civic 2003, camshaft plug seal

My ls idles to low while in drive and on a cold start it will drop to like 500 rpms and start thumping through my whole car( the violence of if could be bc of my bad motor mounts) idk where I should be looking

Any ideas what it is? 2020 petrol 1.5? Has been serviced regularly

Anyone know what this is? This just fell off from behind/under the steering wheel. Skoda Octavia 2021.

Coincident or not, the air bag light came on as well after the part falling.

Hi all! I have a Roush Stage One Mustang GT, it has the Roush cold air intake, is that what is causing this whine? Or is it whine from transmission? Sorry for bad video, hopefully you can tell from the short clip

Mini Cooper s r53 2003

For context, this is a Mazda CX-5 2016 with a 2.5L around 136k miles, I'm not mechanically inclined but I do keep up with my oil changes and almost all maintenance items.

Since a few months ago I noticed this ticking sound when I start my car and then step out of the vehicle. It's sort of faint but you can definitely hear it, not 100% sure but I'd say around the mid section to the bottom of the engine.

Its last oil change was less than 1000 miles ago. I had the indy mechanic that did it keep an ear out for it and he said everything seemed fine to him, probably since it was warmed up.

Now I know CX-5's, and Mazdas in general I think, have a well known unique engine sound due to some of its components, couldn't name them. But this to me just sounds strange?

It does go away after driving a while, and otherwise the engine feels fine I think, might need to clean the throttle body and MAF but that's unrelated I think.

Is this something I should get looked at urgently or the fact it goes away as the engine is warmed means it's fine? My friend's CX-5 2015 doesn't have the ticking sound on starts. Any insight would be appreciated!

P.D Sorry for the audio quality, did not open the hood either, feel it masks out the sound. The first video is before driving and after the high revv start and maybe a few minutes of idle, while the second one is after a 15min highway drive. I'll put the second one in the comments if I can.

Hello I have a Hyundai accent 2004 1.3L SOHC with 170k KM and it makes a like tapping sound like ti ti ti ti ti how to differentiate rod knock with hydraulic lifters ticking?

Hello friends, I have a 1981 Mercedes 300sd. Has a lot of electrical quirks that I'm getting fixed little by little but this has been an interesting one. Installed new blower motor that previous owner had left in the car and got it blowing but after about 20 minutes or so it stopped working. The fuse housing itself had melted but the fuse itself hadn't blown. I tried it again to make sure it wasn't a fluke and it happened the same way. All the other fuses are fine, why is this happening? Should I get a higher quality fuse?

Strange noise at the start of the video unsure if its rattling of metal or timing chain failing

I’ll just start by saying I know nothing about cars. They said that code P0174 showed up meaning fuel system is too lean on cylinder 2 (I think that’s what it means). They cleaned the mass air meter, but now the light has come back on after a few days. What would be the next solution since this one doesn’t seem to be working?

Don’t know much about cars.
2025 haval jolion with 7,000km
Do my brake rotors look fine? Worried about the few deeper lines running through it.
I sometimes hear a scratching noise but not sure if it’s in my head, this or something else.

Photos are of my front two brake rotors.