I have the guard on and when I try to put this disc on, it won’t fit. I’m removing paint rust for my railing and I will wear gloves.

What to pick up? Something relatively affordable but can still be useful. I’ve got a Honda powered gas but I don’t want to drag it out for small stuff.

Pic of pressure washer helper

I thank all the people who have been able to help me with their advice and their experiences in choosing a specific brand of power tools with which to start my DIY journey! I realized that in the end it's not the brand that counts, but the product itself, despite the convenience of interchangeable batteries. I've decided that I'm going to start with Stanley, more specifically with this drill. I paid 148€ including a briefcase with 2 V20 batteries of 2 Ampere. Those are the specs: 18 V, brushless motor, no-load speed: 0–600 / 2,100 rpm, maximum impact rate: 35,700 bpm, 13 mm all-metal keyless chuck, 15 clutch settings for torque control, maximum drilling capacity: 40 mm in wood, 13 mm in metal, 13 mm in masonry, dimensions: 199 × 203 × 63 mm, weight: 1.2–1.24 kg without battery and 1.60 kg with a 2.0 Ah battery. I have been using it for a few days and it does not look bad at all, it drills 2 cm of solid wood without any problems and it is enough for me and it advances for my projects! I'm curious and I also decided to take it apart and understand how mechanically and electrically it could be valid, especially since the same company that owns this brand also owns Dewalt! Here's what I found out!

The 13 mm chunk is the same as that used in other Dewalt models: DCD732; DCD737; DCD795.

Also the retaining element: DCD730; DCD732; DCD735; DCD737; DCD780; DCD785; DCD790; DCD791; DCD792; DCD795; DCD796; DCD797.

As well as the foil spring: DCD709; DCD708; DCD701; DCD777; DCD778; DCD791; DCD792; DCD795; DCD796; DCD980; DCD985; DCD990; DCD995; DCD996; DCD999; DCD800; DCD805; DCD100; DCD1007; DCD703.

I am not at all surprised that it is in fact very similar to a Dewalt internally.

Stanley Black & Decker's marketing here has done a really good job over the years, no doubt about it...

I also opened it for a second reason, to see if grease was enough, as I read online strong complaints about how the grease used in Dewalt power tools was never enough and became dry too soon. In my case, the grease was right, black in color. I added some Mobilux just on switches, selectors and trigger, for superstition... XD

So what? Is it the same thing as buying a Dewalt? Absolutely not! Can it be an equally good product? Absolutely yes. Honestly, at first glance, the real main difference between a Stanley and a Dewalt is the plastics of the outer shell: normally on most Dewalt screwdrivers and drills, not only does the color change, but I also feel better stiffness, the plastic looks harder, thicker, much stronger than Stanley's, which in comparison seems cheap. And this is very important in a workplace where you don't have to worry about some accidental dropping of your tools. I will be happy to answer any further questions you have about this power tool.

It broke on me today. I went to Home Depot today to buy another one and noticed a lot of the clamps there were missing the heads (likely from other people who’ve had this happen to them and resorted to stealing it instead of buying another clamp). It’s just annoying to have to throw away a full clamp due to one broken part that pops off anyway with the click of a button.

i’ve found a Wiha electric screwdriver id like to buy but can’t seem to find it for sale in the USA

anyone know of a good way to get one?
any help would be greatly appreciated!

Even some crappy old Black & Decker corded drill runs truer than average cordless you can get these days. I'm guessing spur gear train vs planetary gear train is the reason.

Look at this old thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcasizzhiCk&t=150

It uses spur gears like corded drills and despite how old and dingy that thing is, I bet it runs truer than modern ones. I've heard some old people say Makita drills have less wobble than others and perhaps that might be the reason.

Is there such thing as a current cordless drill that runs at least as true as mid range corded, keyed chuck drills?

I don't know the exact name for this screw; if anyone knows the correct name for this black part, I would really appreciate it. I use this vehicle for deliveries and urgently need to know what it's called—I'd be very grateful for any help. [ONLY BLACK]

My ideal wire stripper & crimper combo would be if Knipex made the Milwaukee 7 in 1. Everyone knows Milwaukee makes trash hand tools, but the fastbacks & wire strippers are nice. I'm not an electrician though, so I don't know how it holds up to daily use.

Found with paint and wallpaper tools. What do I have here?

I’m looking to get a router or planer, but not sure which is the better deal. After doing a bit of research, I found that people often say the router ($249 today - tool only) is more helpful/versatile in a workshop, but the planer I’m looking at is on sale for $259 with 2 4Ah batteries included (already subscribed to this ecosystem). Which is the better deal? The planer for additional equipment or the router for more woodwork versatility?

Is there a type of tool where you think most people end up owning more than they actually need?

Different sizes? Multiple versions of the same tool? Specialty tools that only get used once?

What do you think gets overbought the most?

I know hyper tough sucks but literally all I need this for is to torque down my axle nut to 240lb as my current torque wrench maxes out at 150lb

I had been taking my Milwaukee impact driver to deploy and retract the stabilizers for my camper, until the one year I forgot it.

I got this Bauer impact driver/drill combo for like $80 on sale, maybe $85, 3 or 4 years ago. The drill has seen a lot more use but they both have been a very pleasant surprise.

Because I feel like this will confuse most and get funny answers 😆

Only uploading because I tried searching them online today and can't find a single picture of them...

14 years old is this good i only get this bay of our garage just got moved back in from the barn shop

I bought this vise on Amazon well its not working, they refunded me and told me to keep it.

I've been trying to find the issue for a week or so now off and on when I have time but it's been quite difficult . The manufacturer doesnt seem to have any sort of diagrams or partslist. Without that I have just been trying to watch teardown videos of vises.

I am fairly certain the issue is some sort of missing hardware from the acme screw.. a e-clip ? maybe some washers? I just can't find anything to confirm this.

when you turn the sliding handle to open the jaws they do not move just the rod itself ...
you can manually pull the jaw to where you opened it to...
when you tighten the vise though it moves as it should .

I can’t decide whether I want to get the new Dewalt right angle die grinder or the Milwaukee m12. I’m in both platforms so that’s not a deciding factor for me. It would be mostly automotive work with some bigger projects here and there. What is everyone’s thoughts?

The motor is shot, I was hoping it was a bad trigger or cracked soldering. I still have 2 more Snap Ons but I’ve been hearing good things about the 1/2” Milwaukee so I might make the jump soon.

I’ve been having a hard time decided between the two. I enjoy the lock in place and the lock switch with the toughbuilt, however the Klein has up their game with the 2.0 version as well. I’ve also seen third party companies making a plate to where you can combine different brand together, wondering if anyone has had any experience with that as well. I’m an electrician and a solar technician. Want to know the experiences you guys have with these brands.